460.465USMC's MK4 Build #9890 - Gel Red is Rad. Blue is Better!

[JohnK]

Thanks for the reminder on the hinge washers! I'm close to being ready to install those myself.

[460.465USMC]

I received the needed items (heat shrink, etc.) I've been waiting on, so was able to finish the Coyote main power installation. I picked up a Group 51 (500 CCA) battery and placed it in the Breeze forward battery box. This allowed me to install the securing rods: one more item checked off the list.

Drawing inspiration from Edwardb and other builders who followed suit, I drilled and tapped a 3/8"-16 hole in the 4" tube to the right of the battery box. After removing the powder coat and applying dielectric grease, I secured the battery (-) cable, as well as the Coyote PDB ground. All of my main power cable is 4 AWG. Breeze supplies a nice length of black with the battery box kit, and F5 supplies a couple lengths of red 4 AWG with the complete kit. So, I didn't have to buy any more. Happy to save a few shekels (for once!).




The 10 AWG negative PDB cable is quite long, so I lopped off quite a few feet. Then crimped and soldered on a ring terminal to attach to the chassis location shown above. As other Coyote builders who have had the pleasure of unwrapping the Ford performance wire loom are acutely aware, it is quite the chore. Had to break out my 2X power Costco readers, and put on a head lamp to try to find the ends of the vinyl wrap and electrical tape. I will say it's nice to have a cleaner install, so I suppose it's worth it. I also unwrapped the blue "Starter lead" wire from the Coyote PCM loom, and routed it inside this same loom as the above mentioned PDB ground, 4 AWG to the starter, and 4 AWG battery to master cutoff. It's a bit crowded in that loom, but fits just fine. Used a few cushioned clamps and 3/16" rivets to secure.

Here you can see the Coyote starter lead, and 4 AWG +12V (from the master switch).




This same power bundle/loom travels up the diagonal support toward the master cutoff switch. Here you can see the F5 provided L bracket on which the PDB mounts. I really liked it. So, decided to install it per the instructions on top of the PS FB.




Up to the master cutoff (Breeze). Hot lead (unswitched) is on top, connected directly to the battery (+), and second 4 AWG to the mega-fuse, which then feeds the PDB. The bottom 4 AWG is switched, and feeds the starter. I'm working on adding a 8 AWG to the bottom 3/8" stud, which will feed a +12VDC bus bar for RF harness power connections inside the dash (a la Edwardb).




Here's a top down view of the PDB, and the supplied 250 Amp mega-fuse (cover left open for picture).




And finally, PC'd the mounting bracket and installed the computer in the recommended location. Secured the cable to the 3/4" tubes with cushioned clamps.




No matter how careful I am I still manage to scratch up the ceramic enamel on the FB panels. Not sure how others are able to keep their panels seemingly scratch/mark/blemish free.

Now back into sorting out the rest of the RF and Coyote electrical. Hoping to make some progress in the not too distant future...we'll see.

P.S. I first saw Shark92651 use cloth adhesive wrap on his engine bay wire looms and liked it. Since I'm basically unwrapping all of them, figured why not dress it up a little (low $$ upgrade) since I have to rewrap it anyway.

P.P.S. I forgot to mention the F5 Coyote Fitment instructions call for a 2" hole in the firewall for the PCM cable--shown in picture above. My caution in measuring the grommet size before drilling paid off, as the hole size needed to be 1.5" for the grommet that came from Ford Performance. Just a friendly heads-up.

[Straversi]

Nice work. Very clean
-Steve

[toadster]

I received the needed items (heat shrink, etc.) I've been waiting on, so was able to finish the Coyote main power installation. I picked up a Group 51 (500 CCA) battery and placed it in the Breeze forward battery box. This allowed me to install the securing rods: one more item checked off the list.

great update! looks awesome! Really shows how large the coyote PDB is!

this is an area that I'm struggling with as I want to put A/C (or even the base heater) - but space is extremely limited!

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the compliment, Steve. That means a lot coming from one of my go-to builders/build threads. This is so much fun, and like you said, addicting!

[460.465USMC]

great update! looks awesome! Really shows how large the coyote PDB is!

this is an area that I'm struggling with as I want to put A/C (or even the base heater) - but space is extremely limited!

Thanks, Toadster! I don't have quite the space challenge, as I'm not doing heat or AC, so I think it's a good location for my build.

[BadAsp427]

the build is really coming along nicely and looks great...

[460.465USMC]

the build is really coming along nicely and looks great...

Thanks, Carl. Appreciate the encouragement!

[Blitzboy54]

Very clean. Looks fantastic. As far as the FB panels go I did my best as well but scratches I fear are somewhat inevitable. I used powder coat with is more durable but still scratches. I imagine after a couple 1000 miles of driving the engine bay will have some natural “patina” anyhow.

[460.465USMC]

Very clean. Looks fantastic. As far as the FB panels go I did my best as well but scratches I fear are somewhat inevitable. I used powder coat with is more durable but still scratches. I imagine after a couple 1000 miles of driving the engine bay will have some natural “patina” anyhow.

Good point, Jesse. I'm building a car to be driven. Driving along the roadways will leave it's marks for sure. There's just something about putting marks/scratches on it before it even gets to the roadways that bugs me. But my guess is when I first hear it rumble to life these sorts of minor things will fade into the background.

[JB in NOVA]

Nice work, and great progress! If you're building the car to be driven rather than for show (which is also my philosophy), I wouildn't worry too much about those minor scratches. As you say, they will eventually blend in with the overall patina of the car, and you will probably never think about them again once the body is on.

[Doenut]

Can I ask where you found your wheels and tires from?

Thanks

Dave

[460.465USMC]

Can I ask where you found your wheels and tires from?

Thanks

Dave

Hi Dave. Sorry for the delay. I ordered my SVE wheels and Nitto tires as a staggered set/package from LMR. I had a good experience with them.

[460.465USMC]

It's been almost six weeks since I've touched my build. We lost our son Benjamin, Aug. 26. He would have turned 19 last week. The last time we were together he was in our garage to change the oil in his Honda Civic.

He really liked cars. Anything with some extra performance, i.e. "mods" got his heart pumping. Although his taste in cars and mine weren't exactly the same (he liked Subie WRX, Mitsubishi EVO, etc.), he could still appreciate my Roadster build. In my mind's eye I can see the grin on his face had we been able to take off on first go-kart together someday. I'm so thankful I was able to hug him and tell him I loved him on that final Sunday in our garage.

I'm dedicating this build to Ben. This photo was taken about three years ago (he was 16), but it's one of my favorites.




Back in August just before getting started on the RF harness, I installed this bracket for the clutch switch. It's a nice bracket that attaches to the threaded rod of the clutch pedal coming out of MC to actuate the switch plunger. At some point, F5 must have started including these in complete kits with hydraulic clutches. Glad I didn't need to make one. Nice improvement, F5. (It comes as untreated aluminum; I PCd mine).




One other item I completed before jumping into RF harness was to unwrap the Coyote transmission harness. Per the F5 instructions, this is required in order to be able to properly route the DS and PS O2 sensors to their respective Coyote header location. A red wire is shared between the DS and PS O2 sensors. I had to cut and extend it so they could be separated to reach their respective O2 locations on the Coyote headers. Here it is after DS and PS separated (before rewrapping).




One tip I learned to use in the field many years ago (when I used to solder on a daily basis) is to form a hook on the end of each wire, then press together with pliers. This holds the wires in place, making the connection easier to solder. I plan to solder connections like this v. crimp. Just my preference.




And, after soldering. Don't forget to slide the heat-shrink over each end before soldering!




I also installed a four position bus bar (Blue Sea Systems #2307) for +12V distribution behind the dash area, and a 150A mega-fuse (Blue Sea Systems #5001) which will be connected between the bus bar and alternator. Both are ideas I liked from Edwardb's 20th anniv. build, and are positioned as you see in his build here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post234044


Back to the RF harness, the progress I made back in Aug. was basically unwrapping the main harness. Boy, was it a lot easier to unwrap than the Ford Performance harnesses. Though I must say I was a bit surprised to see masking tape wrapped around the wires when I removed the loom. Wasn't expecting to see that, though I suppose since they are mostly (completely?) away from heat sources once installed I'm guessing it's okay.

Here's where I left off the third week of August.




To keep the harnesses organized and labeled for future reference I attached these non-metallic cable labels.




Perhaps tomorrow I will get back on the build. Before getting back into the RF harness, I am going to pick what should be a straight-forward task: installing the IRS adapter. The supplied metric socket head bolts require a specific torque value, so I just "had" to buy a DeWalt 3/8" socket drive set, metric and SAE. This is $20 well spent IMHO. I feel much better when critical safety items are torqued accurately.

[Blitzboy54]

Oh my God Chris, I’m so sorry to hear that news. I am heartbroken for your family. I just can’t imagine what your going through.

[JohnK]

Chris, I am so sorry for you and your family. That is absolutely heartbreaking.

[D Stand]

Sorry to hear about your loss.
Dale

[egchewy79]

I can't even being to understand what you and your family are going through. Hopefully the build can be therapeutic for you and help during the hard time.

[Fman]

Chris, I am so deeply saddened and sorry for your loss. Thoughts and prayers to you and your family.

[SCMedLion]

So sorry for you and your family.

Our son is close to his age. I cannot imagine.

Will pray for all.

[JB in NOVA]

Damn, Chris. I just read this and I'm literally in tears. Please let me know if there is anything I can do. Ben was clearly a beautiful person, and he is in a better place now. It is wonderful that you shared your passion for cars with him. So sorry for your loss.

[jrcuz]

So sorry for your loss.

[460.465USMC]

Oh my God Chris, I’m so sorry to hear that news. I am heartbroken for your family. I just can’t imagine what your going through.

Chris, I am so sorry for you and your family. That is absolutely heartbreaking.

Jesse/John,

I really appreciate your condolences. It means a lot. Thank you.

[460.465USMC]

Sorry to hear about your loss.
Dale

I can't even being to understand what you and your family are going through. Hopefully the build can be therapeutic for you and help during the hard time.

Chris, I am so deeply saddened and sorry for your loss. Thoughts and prayers to you and your family.

Dale/Chewy/Travis,

Thank you for your kind words. Your prayers are appreciated. It's been very difficult to get back to the build, but I, too, hope it will help me through.

[460.465USMC]

So sorry for you and your family.

Our son is close to his age. I cannot imagine.

Will pray for all.

Damn, Chris. I just read this and I'm literally in tears. Please let me know if there is anything I can do. Ben was clearly a beautiful person, and he is in a better place now. It is wonderful that you shared your passion for cars with him. So sorry for your loss.

So sorry for your loss.

SCMedLion/JB/JRCUZ,

I am grateful for your caring condolences. Take this reminder to reach out to those whom you love, and don't waste any opportunities. Thanks again for your care.

[sohcrates]

Oh my god. I just responded to your post on my build thread, and then decided to check on yours. I am not someone who tears up often, but I am having trouble typing. I can not imagine what your family is going through. Working on this car with my son (when he gets the time!) is an amazing experience, and makes me realize how lucky I am and how much he means to me. I am so deeply sorry that I can not express it. I don't know you at all, but I feel for you and your family as if we were brothers. Your build we be special and meaningful to you in ways that the rest of us can't comprehend.

[Papa]

Chris,

I can't begin to imagine what you're going through. A parent should never have to experience the loss of a child. I hope you find solace in knowing that he's with you every day now; watching over you, and he'll be with you on that first go-kart even if not strapped into the seat next to you. My thoughts are with you and your family.

Keep me true to my best self, guarding me against dishonesty in purpose and deed and helping me to live so that I can face my fellow Marines, my loved ones and Thee without shame or fear. Protect my family. Give me the will to do the work of a Marine and to accept my share of responsibilities with vigor and enthusiasm.

Dave

[Straversi]

I’m so sorry for your loss. Unimaginable, really.
I know sometimes the shop/garage can be a therapeutic place and sometimes there is just no motivation. Both are OK. There is no quick fix for grief.
Hang in there.
-Steve

[Jeff Kleiner]

Chris,
I hadn't looked in on your build recently and just opened the thread up to find the news of Ben's passing. To say that I'm truly sorry for the loss you and your family have had doesn't seem enough. I simply can't imagine... Keep the memories close to your heart and know that so many of us here have you in our thoughts and prayers.

Regards,
Jeff

[460.465USMC]

Oh my god. I just responded to your post on my build thread, and then decided to check on yours. I am not someone who tears up often, but I am having trouble typing. I can not imagine what your family is going through. Working on this car with my son (when he gets the time!) is an amazing experience, and makes me realize how lucky I am and how much he means to me. I am so deeply sorry that I can not express it. I don't know you at all, but I feel for you and your family as if we were brothers. Your build we be special and meaningful to you in ways that the rest of us can't comprehend.

Sohcrates, I'm taken aback by the incredible kindness of the F5 forum members who have expressed their condolences, warm wishes, and prayers for my family. It is truly a blessing to receive it. This seems like an impossible time to get through.

I look forward to watching your build progress--hopefully more often with your son than without. Thank you.

[460.465USMC]

Chris,

I can't begin to imagine what you're going through. A parent should never have to experience the loss of a child. I hope you find solace in knowing that he's with you every day now; watching over you, and he'll be with you on that first go-kart even if not strapped into the seat next to you. My thoughts are with you and your family.

Keep me true to my best self, guarding me against dishonesty in purpose and deed and helping me to live so that I can face my fellow Marines, my loved ones and Thee without shame or fear. Protect my family. Give me the will to do the work of a Marine and to accept my share of responsibilities with vigor and enthusiasm.

Dave

Dave,

I truly hope no other forum member faces this. Thank you for your kindness, and for including the above. I'm sure I must have read/recited it many times years ago, but can't seem to recall it now. Though, I'm still in a fog, so having trouble recalling things in general.

Your well wishes mean a lot to my family and me.

[460.465USMC]

I’m so sorry for your loss. Unimaginable, really.
I know sometimes the shop/garage can be a therapeutic place and sometimes there is just no motivation. Both are OK. There is no quick fix for grief.
Hang in there.
-Steve

Steve,

My hope is the garage will become a place where I can recall many memories of Ben as I work on the Roadster. Or, just savor the memories even if I'm out there doing nothing. I'm grateful for your kind works.

[460.465USMC]

Chris,
I hadn't looked in on your build recently and just opened the thread up to find the news of Ben's passing. To say that I'm truly sorry for the loss you and your family have had doesn't seem enough. I simply can't imagine... Keep the memories close to your heart and know that so many of us here have you in our thoughts and prayers.

Regards,
Jeff

Jeff,

So many kind and good folks on this forum like yourself. Not only in sharing great build tips, and warning us noobies of pitfalls, but just plain kind human beings caring for other human beings. Thank you.

[460.465USMC]

I decided I better dive into the dash as my next step in electrical. After many hours of labor, head-scratching, more labor, and greater expense than anticipated (!!!!) my dashboard finally entered this world. Did I mention the labor part? It doesn't yet have it's "skin", but it's in place and solid. I wanted to do something a little different, so the dash's skin will be powder coat. The metal dash is also a nod back to cars from the Cobra era.

I was planning to use kit-supplied dash, but changed my mind for two reasons. (1) The supplied dash has 25+ holes 1/8" in diameter drilled randomly throughout--see picture below. (2) The visibility of the large guage cutout to the left side of the steering shaft is almost completely blocked by the steering wheel--that just won't do.




So, I set out to create my own dash. Picked up a piece of 0.080 aluminum from my local metal shop ($42), traced the perimeter of the kit supplied 0.040 dash, and cut it out with my jigsaw.

After reading how many builders made their dash removable with the body on, I figured it would be prudent to do the same. I chose to follow Edwardb's approach (no surprise). However, I completely underestimated the level of challenge this would be for me. The precision required to align the brackets, nutplates, and dash so the 10-32 screws thread in easily was daunting. This is probably not a big issue for more seasoned builders.

Here's a summary of the steps I took to duplicate Edwardb's approach:
(1) Cut angle brackets from 1"X1"X1/8" angle aluminum. These get attached to the dash using 100 deg. tapered SS screws (also 10-32). I used 10-32 SS socket heads to attach these brackets to the nutplates. Here's an example of the materials:




(2) I used JB Weld to attach the nutplates to the dash hoop. Again, precision is critical on this step. Drilled holes into the dash hoop behind the nutplates to allow the 10-32 screws to fully engage the threads, and provide a little extra length. Finally, secured 1/8" rivets into the dash hoop through holes in the nutplates I previously drilled. Filed the rivet heads flat. In hindsight, I would have countersunk the rivet holes in the nutplates, but didn't because I was concerned about removing too much material. Sounds easy enough, right? Probably is for others.




Here's a view of the countersunk holes. This one has a 3/16" rivet instead of two 10-32 screws because I needed more runway clearance on the back side for the 10-32 socket head that threads vertically between the lock nuts into the nutplate. I think it's plenty solid but lesson learned: space these apart a little further to allow ample clearance for the 10-32 socket head. These are now filled with JB Weld and sanded smooth.




Backside view:




(3) Spending some time sitting in the cockpit (in the actual seat) with the steering wheel in position, and blank dash in place was really helpful. Like others, I spent time moving the gauges around using paper cut outs. I eventually found an arrangement that maximizes visibility. And, puts front and center the vitals I want to monitor most frequently. For me, a builders square and tape measure were critical to keep the layout centered and aligned.




To my surprise, laying out the gauges wasn't quite as difficult/tedious as I expected. I considered the circle cutter option to cut the holes, but was less than confident I could make it work. So, I put the old drill press to work with hole saws. I had to pick up quite a few hole saws ($$!!), and seemed to have started a collection.

[Papa]

... I had to pick up quite a few hole saws ($$!!), and seemed to have started a collection.

Too late now, Chris, but have you ever seen one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7P1...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Dave

[JohnK]

Nice work Chris! I completely agree about the complexity involved in the hidden dash mounts. I also tried to copy Edwardb's dash mounts and found them to be far trickier than they appear.

(Edit: never mind on the mounting ring interference. Looks like you got it all sorted out nicely!)

[460.465USMC]

Drill press earning it's keep:




Oh, and I discovered the deburring tool. Where has it been over the last year?! It's worth every penny of the $18 I spent.

To make the 90 deg. bend in this thick 0.080 dash I paid a local fabricator. However, I was able to curve the ends using clamps, a paint can, and a 3" scrap piece of electrical conduit. It was effective--use what you got, right? I've been told the ends are not visible once the body is on, so not to worry if not perfect. The curved ends will not be fastened.




On a recent thread Straversi mentioned he doesn't toss (discard) steel. I concur, and was able to put the unused Coyote gas pedal mount brackets to good use as support brackets for the grab handle. (Interestingly, the bracket that came with my kit was bent backwards, so F5 sent me a replacement. Now I had two. I was not happy with the way it mounted, so made my own pedal bracket; the silver lining is these were almost perfect for use with the grab handle). Some trimming, bending, and couple holes drilled, then a run through the 460.465USMC powder coating shop and they work perfectly.

Pedal mount before:




Pedal mount after - installed as grab handle support. One for each side of grab handle. A couple of the Breeze underdash mount supports (4 total) can be seen in this view as well (PCd these as well). I think I ordered these in a moment of weakness, as they would have been easy enough to make. But, they were at a fair price, and they fit perfectly.




I picked up a couple lights from the trailer section of my local farm and feed store. To be used as footwell lights, one is installed on the DS footwell (attached to Breeze underdash support) and one on the PS. I used 10-32 nutserts to attach Breeze mounts to the bottom side of dash.




Cutting in the keyhole for the headlight switch didn't turn out great. So, I repurposed the perfectly cut keyhole in the supplied F5 underdash bracket, and attached it to the back of the dash directly behind the keyhole I cut. Helped keep the switch from rotating.




And finally, the assembled dash in place. One of the seat heaters from Cobraheat is still on order - hence the empty hole to the left.

[460.465USMC]

Seriously! Three updates for one dash?! Okay, guess this was a big milestone for me.


Here's the view from the driver's seat. The small black button on the lower left is for the Speedo menus.




As far as dash extras (i.e. not part of the kit):

• DS and PS seat heater controls (CobraHeat)
• USB/12V charging ports
• 9" grab handle for passenger
• Trim ring from Replica Parts

I will eventually install the Breeze cubby, so decided against a glove box. I plan to use the button on the RT turn signal for the horn.

Hope to have the dash powder coated soon.

Thanks to many who shared their great ideas. A special thanks to JohnK and Edwardb for dash-building tips and advice.

[Blitzboy54]

Chris, I love it. I’ve never seen a gauge layout like that before. It’s very unique. I can’t wait to see it upholstered.

[460.465USMC]

Too late now, Chris, but have you ever seen one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7P1...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Dave

Hi Dave. That's what I meant by "circle cutter" above. In hindsight, I would have been better off buying it and giving it a whirl before fully committing to the hole saw approach.

Thanks for the input, and keeping an eye out for me!