25th MKIV #9772 Build NOR*CAL: color reveal!

[facultyofmusic]

Kinda cool how you can almost see the LEDs through the lens. Looks like something out of Ironman.

[toadster]

Kinda cool how you can almost see the LEDs through the lens. Looks like something out of Ironman.

LOL yeah!!!

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[460.465USMC]

I also ordered a set of AMBER 1157 LED Bulb - Dual Function 27 SMD LED Tower - 2 Pack for $20, they have been recommended here by boat737
pics don't do it much benefit but you can hopefully see the difference here...

here's the 27 SMD LED next to the regular 1157 white bulb, no covers, the right side almost reminds me of old flashlights we used to use
honestly the LED has me seeing spots... very bright!

I couldn't agree more on the LED improvement. Nice! I did the same (from Watson Streetworks), because I want to be as visible as possible to other drivers given the small footprint and low profile of these Roadsters.

Not sure if you already checked, but I had to swap out my flashers for LED compatible flashers with a pigtail ground. Not a big deal at <$20, but mine wouldn't work correctly without them.

[John Ibele]

Good ideas, Todd. Wish I had had those battery clamps hooking up my Sniper stuff. I will be doing the LED upgrade.

[toadster]

I couldn't agree more on the LED improvement. Nice! I did the same (from Watson Streetworks), because I want to be as visible as possible to other drivers given the small footprint and low profile of these Roadsters.

Not sure if you already checked, but I had to swap out my flashers for LED compatible flashers with a pigtail ground. Not a big deal at <$20, but mine wouldn't work correctly without them.

my kit came with LED flashers for the rear taillights, so should be OK with the fronts - time will tell

[toadster]

more wiring!

had to reattach the HS CAN +/- 12V lines in the harness because we will use them for the ABS HCU

got to do some wire dieting on the O2 sensor wires, our harness had a 4-to-1 power distribution wire really high up the harness toward the plugs
We split that power feed way back and wrapped the right side (which is shorter) and we hope right hand means the passenger side!

Left the driver side unwrapped for now as we'll most likely have to extend the wires to the O2 harness later when the engine is in

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also mounted the DGD GPS sensor, assuming this will be a safe place and not get in the way of anything around the windshield - correct?

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In reading I believe the C132 AAT isn't needed so we're going to cut at the Y joint and terminate, I do want a modern car, but I don't think in need an ambient air temp display telling me I'm getting sunburnt LOL
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also tidied up the ABS wiring
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[JohnK]

also mounted the DGD GPS sensor, assuming this will be a safe place and not get in the way of anything around the windshield - correct?

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Hey Todd, that area is going to get covered up by the rest of the DS footbox upper sheetmetal, so I don't think that GPS sensor will work in that position.

[facultyofmusic]

...also mounted the DGD GPS sensor, assuming this will be a safe place and not get in the way of anything around the windshield - correct?

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Hey Todd, looks like it won't get in the way of the windshield but I'm not sure if there's enough space under the footbox top aluminum panel for that GPS thing to fit. The aluminum panel has a cut-out for the windshield post and goes pretty far back. Would definitely recommend checking for clearance.

As for the O2 sensor, the manual from Ford actually says to not splice or do anything to the O2 sensor harness because it may affect the signal... haha I read that one after I did it too!

EDIT: Looks like John beat me to it!

[toadster]

Hey Todd, that area is going to get covered up by the rest of the DS footbox upper sheetmetal, so I don't think that GPS sensor will work in that position.

Hey Todd, looks like it won't get in the way of the windshield but I'm not sure if there's enough space under the footbox top aluminum panel for that GPS thing to fit. The aluminum panel has a cut-out for the windshield post and goes pretty far back. Would definitely recommend checking for clearance.

As for the O2 sensor, the manual from Ford actually says to not splice or do anything to the O2 sensor harness because it may affect the signal... haha I read that one after I did it too!

EDIT: Looks like John beat me to it!

awesome thanks guys! I have other spots to put it, hence the zipties
it's been SO long since I've seen that part LOL

also, the O2 sensor wires won't be modified, it's the wires that feed that O2 connection - that's not an issue THANKS!

[toadster]

minor work in the past day, but attached the fuel pressure regulator in the engine bay, and tidied up the flex fuel line to the footbox

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[Ted G]

Looks Good! I was going to wait till I get the motor installed just in case. But that is the same location as mine.... eventually.

[facultyofmusic]

minor work in the past day, but attached the fuel pressure regulator in the engine bay, and tidied up the flex fuel line to the footbox

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I wonder if that's going to be tough to see and work on. I know some folks like to set the fuel pressure and then replace the gauge with a plug since those pressure gauges may leak. Suppose one day you'll have to change out the return line for some reason; it will be tough to reach the bottom. However I've also seen others use about the same location.

Just a thought. Great job so far!

[toadster]

I wonder if that's going to be tough to see and work on. I know some folks like to set the fuel pressure and then replace the gauge with a plug since those pressure gauges may leak. Suppose one day you'll have to change out the return line for some reason; it will be tough to reach the bottom. However I've also seen others use about the same location.

Just a thought. Great job so far!

Thanks Dan! Yes, everything is going to be tough to work on in this car to be totally honest this was about the only spot left on the firewall without going lower... time will tell

Got to more wire dieting last night, finished up everything on the Coyote pre-install except for the 250A fuse

also installed the 2nd fuse panel, the top 6 fuses will be HAAT, and the bottom 6 will be keyed-on power
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we re-used the 2nd fuse panel mount that came with the kit to mount the Blue Sea fuse panel
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put in a good ground for our ground bus bar, tricky spot, but it's bare metal ground
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While my son was soldering connections, I went ahead and aluminum tape sealed the footbox Zero Clearance heat reflection panels from Breeze
not as clean as I wanted it to look but it's keeping it functional and sealed the edges from the rough cuts

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lastly, here's the fuse panel mounted under the steering wheel - still lots of wire to run to this! But I like the location, keeps everything in one area!
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[toadster]

setup the 250A for the Coyote ECU, space is at a premium for sure! the 24" power lead should reach the starter with no issue from here

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getting the center console disconnects done and laying out some thermotec to prep for running the heated seat wiring, keeping the Breeze seat mounts directly onto the floor

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running more wires to the 2ndary fuse box and we added a relay to power the key-on power
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15 hours in this weekend on the car, doesn't look like much but dang we got a lot done!

[Ted G]

Looking good Todd. I was wondering if you set your Breeze seat racks yet. They look pretty square to the door side where mine are more angled to match the trans tunnel. I have pre-set mine so I can go-cart, but won't fully secure them until the body is painted and secured.

[toadster]

Looking good Todd. I was wondering if you set your Breeze seat racks yet. They look pretty square to the door side where mine are more angled to match the trans tunnel. I have pre-set mine so I can go-cart, but won't fully secure them until the body is painted and secured.

no not mounted at all, just set in place for sizing for the thermo-tec, still need to run the wires for the seat heaters and they'll run in the corner of the trans tunnel and floor

similar setup to this, just we're mounting the breeze seats directly onto the floor, no thermo-tec as per the directions
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[toadster]

minor updates, my son wire-dieted the Wilwood brake setup to get the lines to the correct length to the lower dash pod, I think altogether it was about 30 solder joints, and 16-20 quick disconnect wires
You don't realize it until you're in the middle of it all but wiring takes a long time!
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While he was occupied with wiring, I did the rivnuts and button-head screws in the driver footbox top panel
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at this point I think we only have the main power wire from the battery to run to the starter in the engine bay, all the Coyote pre-wire is done
We have to chase down a few more wires for the A/C-Heater setup but we're nearly ready to test fit the engine!!!

[460.465USMC]

Sounds like a fantastic weekend in the garage, Todd. I'm looking forward to hearing your Coyote roar to life.

[Ted G]

Looking good! I guess you'll need that engine hoist pretty soon eh? I'll get it back to you this weekend hopefully! Thanks goes out to Fman for the loaner X2.

[toadster]

a few more things while we prep for engine test fit...

Digging through all the wiring, we realized that there a few more items from the A/C and wipers that we needed to pull the dash and re-wire, we'll probably leave the dash off for a little while to do the engine-bay runs back to the switches
lots more wire dieting and soldering, thankfully my son loves to solder

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clearing out the garage a bit to make room for the hoist and a few local cobra guys to help with the engine test fit, expectations are that we'll have to pull the engine back out due to the A/C & Heater setup alignment
maybe we'll get lucky - but not expecting it to all work the first time...

also prepping more cockpit items, spraying the seat frames to minimize rust, and the last bit of Thermo-Tec on the transmission tunnel
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Also ran the relay and wiring for the fog light setup, upgrading from the H3 55W to LED

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I then realized that you need a h3 pk22s base which is a flat base, many LED H3s have a thick collar, so I ordered new ones from SuperBrightLEDs
https://www.superbrightleds.com/h3-l...ens-cool-white

the side markers are Alla Lighting Miniature 168 194 LED Lights Bulbs T10 Wedge Super Bright Amber Yellow Interior/Side Marker Lights 194A 194NA 2825 W5W 192 158

[toadster]

getting a few more items done, placed a 150A breaker in the engine bay for alternator circuit protection, cheap $40 insurance for what could be a big $$ issue
also ran a grommet for the hydraulic clutch line, length TBD once we test fit the engine, I'll seal up the alternator line once we get a good length on the line

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since the Coyote has been sitting for a bit, I chose to use some Sta-Bil Fogging Oil to coat the cylinders a bit, hand spun the engine about 10-12 times
was also a good opportunity to check the spark plugs for proper gap

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getting the garage ready tonight, and hopefully the weather won't be too bad tomorrow for a test fit of the engine!

[Railroad]

Do not use that gauge to open the gap on your plugs, if needed.
Read up on gapping plugs and make note about the precious metal tipped ones.
It is not so surgical, but a lot of people pry on the electrode to open the gap, BAD.

[toadster]

Do not use that gauge to open the gap on your plugs, if needed.
Read up on gapping plugs and make note about the precious metal tipped ones.
It is not so surgical, but a lot of people pry on the electrode to open the gap, BAD.

agreed, it was only to check the gap - they were all spot on, just wanted to verify - you never know when a tech will accidentally bump one when assembling

[Ted G]

Can't wait to help you install this thing!

[460.465USMC]

Almost there, Todd. Not sure if you got your hydraulic clutch line from Forte, but I did, and routed very similarly to yours and the length is perfect. Looking good.

[John Ibele]

Man you bit off a lot with your build, but not more than you could chew - way to keep chugging along, Todd.

[toadster]

I took a day off Friday to get the garage a bit more organized and see how the engine would come off the pallet, never ran into this before, but I haven't use an engine hoist in over 30 years - let alone, one with a new crate motor on a pallet

the pallet wood itself is too wide for the legs of the engine hoist, so not only are we doing a custom build, but had to customize the pallet to get the engine on the hoist

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what fun is that!? The legs now were situated to the point where the end of the hoist was over the center of the engine which allowed us to test lift and check on clearance, etc.

next, I prepped the engine bay, removed the steering arm, removed the radiator, and used some HUGE pool noodles to protect the engine bay a bit

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[toadster]

Saturday was an amazing day - some of the local Sacrament FFR crew showed up for bagels and coffee... oh and to help STUFF the coyote in the engine bay!

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Holy Smokes! Just a surreal feeling!

[toadster]

here's a few more pics to show how tight that coyote really is in the engine bay!
I need to figure out the oil filler - it's flush against the passenger rail, probably a disassemble, and mount on the head?

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the driver side zero clearance insulation is right up against the spark plug wires, folks aren't kidding that it's about 1/4" clearance to the footbox...
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the team was amazing! Such a great group!!

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[toadster]

after a few hours, the team left and my son and I were mounting the A-frame and torquing bolts...

things went well until the passenger size engine mount... yes, that's a grade8 bolt that snapped off!!

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Sadly my son fractured his knuckle when this bolt snapped, we think he may be ok with a brace for a bit while it heals...

fortunately, Tim (aka tbl100) had a spare mount kit - the alignment pin was welded in the wrong spot so FFR sent him a new kit when he assembled his Coyote

he was gracious enough not only to come get the parts, but to also grind off and re-welt the alignment pin! my son Ryan - broken knuckle and all wanted to do the work!

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that was the first time he welded and it turned out great!

today, I'm hoping to use some metal etch on the plate and paint to protect it then we'll have to raise the engine and re-fit the passenger mount

just to clarify - torque settings we're seeing on the internet is 41-ft/lbs from mount to block and 120 ft-lbs from chassis to mount

if that 120 is too much PLEASE let me know!

[John Ibele]

Wow! That was even more excitement than you anticipated! Glad your son's (mostly) okay, and great to see his level of attachment to the project. And in the end, you've got the engine in it's final home, which is a great thing. Those Coyote's give the phrase "between the rails" a real test ... congrats Todd, way to go. Great to see after that ton of custom wiring you've churned out.

[JohnK]

Congratulations on getting that beast stuffed in there! That's a huge accomplishment. No matter how many photos you've seen, it's a far tighter squeeze when you see it in person. Sorry to hear about your son's knuckle. I hope it heals up quickly. FWIW - I also had a tough time tracking down torque specs for the engine mount to block and engine mount to frame torque specs. I ended up going with the recommendation in this thread.

Engine mount (Engine to mount) 35-60
Engine mount (Mount to frame) 50-105

That's a pretty wide range, though. IIRC, I just shot for the middle of that range and called it good enough. I put some blue loctite on the mount to engine bolts. My mount to frame nuts were distorted thread nuts, so no loctite needed there.

[toadster]

Wow! That was even more excitement than you anticipated! Glad your son's (mostly) okay, and great to see his level of attachment to the project. And in the end, you've got the engine in it's final home, which is a great thing. Those Coyote's give the phrase "between the rails" a real test ... congrats Todd, way to go. Great to see after that ton of custom wiring you've churned out.

Congratulations on getting that beast stuffed in there! That's a huge accomplishment. No matter how many photos you've seen, it's a far tighter squeeze when you see it in person. Sorry to hear about your son's knuckle. I hope it heals up quickly. FWIW - I also had a tough time tracking down torque specs for the engine mount to block and engine mount to frame torque specs. I ended up going with the recommendation in this thread.

Engine mount (Engine to mount) 35-60
Engine mount (Mount to frame) 50-105

That's a pretty wide range, though. IIRC, I just shot for the middle of that range and called it good enough. I put some blue loctite on the mount to engine bolts. My mount to frame nuts were distorted thread nuts, so no loctite needed there.

Thanks guys! Yeah, my son is doing pretty well - this is nothing compared to his broken collarbone and thumb six months ago! He's a trooper!!

I think your mount #s John are pretty good, no wonder 120 broke a bolt
I'm really (maybe no so) surprised FFR doesn't have any numbers on this step! They seem to document torque settings on everything else...

I 'prepped' the new mount and painted it - it ain't pretty, but it's an engine mount LOL

I think when we get the engine up in the air a little, I will probably fumble around with the headers, that's going to be an exercise in frustration, I just know it!

[Gizmosrcool]

Good story for your son when asked what he did this weekend. "Ehh. Busted my knuckle up a little when dropping in Dad's coyote motor in his hotrod. No biggie". You will have great experiences and stories to look back on. Busted knuckle = sore. Time with your son = priceless.

[toadster]

Good story for your son when asked what he did this weekend. "Ehh. Busted my knuckle up a little when dropping in Dad's coyote motor in his hotrod. No biggie". You will have great experiences and stories to look back on. Busted knuckle = sore. Time with your son = priceless.

yes, we've made some amazing memories working on this car!

tonight we use the doctored up engine mount, I metal etched it and painted it - the paint looks horrible, but - it's an engine mount!
what is really odd, the 7/8ths socket fit the prior nuts, but we had to go buy a 22mm socket for the replacement nuts - so crazy!

we torqued them to 85 ft-lbs this time!

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also got two of the 3 starter bolts in, need to jack up the car for the bottom one for sure...

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we were going to start the headers tonight, but realized it's 10pm time for bed!

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[edwardb]

Nice progress. Minor point, but you asked about the oil filler. Probably you've figured this out by now. But yes, take the extension off and use the provided cap. The extension twists off just like a cap. You'll need a funnel for oil fills. But no big deal.

[Mike.Bray]

also got two of the 3 starter bolts in, need to jack up the car for the bottom one for sure...

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Situations like the starter motor and even headers are often easier with studs and nuts instead of bolts.

[toadster]

Nice progress. Minor point, but you asked about the oil filler. Probably you've figured this out by now. But yes, take the extension off and use the provided cap. The extension twists off just like a cap. You'll need a funnel for oil fills. But no big deal.

yes, thanks Paul - that filler neck was in there pretty good, surprised FFR doesn't tell you to remove it before dropping in the motor as it's right up against the passenger rail
all better now, agreed will need a funnel and maybe flexible hose for filling once the body is on

Situations like the starter motor and even headers are often easier with studs and nuts instead of bolts.

that's a great idea! I got the Stage 8 (8914) 1.25" Thread Pitch Bolt Kit for the headers, in hindsight the studs/bolts method would be much easier!

[460.465USMC]

here's a few more pics to show how tight that coyote really is in the engine bay!

the driver side zero clearance insulation is right up against the spark plug wires, folks aren't kidding that it's about 1/4" clearance to the footbox...

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Congrats, Todd and Ryan. Well done. Like JohnK said, until you put the Coyote in it's hard to describe how tight it fits. I had less than a 1/4" on the DS FB.

I see Edwardb already commented on the oil filler tube. Forte removed mine before shipping, so I use a funnel with a long flexible tube to fill the oil.

I hope your son's finger heals up with no issues.

P.S. which one are you in the picture?

[toadster]

Congrats, Todd and Ryan. Well done. Like JohnK said, until you put the Coyote in it's hard to describe how tight it fits. I had less than a 1/4" on the DS FB.

I see Edwardb already commented on the oil filler tube. Forte removed mine before shipping, so I use a funnel with a long flexible tube to fill the oil.
I hope your son's finger heals up with no issues.

P.S. which one are you in the picture?

I'm the one circled in yellow, my son Ryan is in red

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