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pulling rear wheel studs
Friends,
Apologies that this has been kind of discussed in multiple threads already but I'm having a maybe unique issue I'm hoping you all can help with.
I'm working on replacing the studs on the rear wheel hubs with the Dorman 610-519's.
After reading through threads on this forum, I purchased the Lisle device ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ).
All good screwing the lug nuts on down to the device on the stud, but upon trying to tighten further to pull the stud, I got a lot of resistance. In all honestly I brute forced it with my impact wrench, which pulled the stud but you won't be surprised to hear that the stud threads are now not so pristine, so I need to try a different approach.
I could put a bit of grease or oil on the knurl to reduce the resistance, but I'm hesitant to lubricate something that I'm trying to permanently fix to the hub.
Thanks all for advice in advance.
ST
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Senior Member
Find a local auto parts store or machine shop that has a hydraulic press. It will make short work of them.
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I bought a 12-ton press a few years ago for $30 on Craigslist and have used it for a bunch of stuff. It's one of those tools you don't know you need until you have one.
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Kit #361, arrived 10/2015, still in progress
818C highly modified, corvette suspension
Estimated completion summer 2023!
1989 turbo Supra 5 sp
2017 Tundra
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Senior Member
I bought some sacrificial lug nuts and used one per lug to pull them in. used grease and washers as well. not as good as a press, but managed at home
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Ditto on the press. Now I have one. Wish I got one sooner
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
JJK
I bought some sacrificial lug nuts and used one per lug to pull them in. used grease and washers as well. not as good as a press, but managed at home
Dittos on that. Some lubrication, line things up, abuse a sacrificial lug nut with the impact, and teach those studs some respect. LOL.
FFR MKIV ordered 12 July 2019. IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Wheels w/MT tires, power steering, EFI, Heat. 347 Dart w/TKO-600 by Mike Forte, Holley FI, MSD coil and CD box. All new, no donor build.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
RBachman
Dittos on that. Some lubrication, line things up, abuse a sacrificial lug nut with the impact, and teach those studs some respect. LOL.
I did much the same, except by hand with a ratchet. Install the stud by hand, slip a 5/8" nut (or spacer) over the stud, plus a couple of liberally greased washers, then a lug nut. Tighten by hand & they'll pull right in. It takes time, but you'll get'em in.
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
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Senior Member
If it took so much force to pull them in that the threads were damaged, I would check to make sure you have the correct studs. They do have different sizes at the knurl.
Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
phileas_fogg
I did much the same, except by hand with a ratchet. Install the stud by hand, slip a 5/8" nut (or spacer) over the stud, plus a couple of liberally greased washers, then a lug nut. Tighten by hand & they'll pull right in. It takes time, but you'll get'em in.
John
I did the same. Did not even need an impact. Grease the threads, grease the knurl, grease the washers. Went in without a problem.
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Jeff
Roadster delivered 8/27/23
Chevrolet Performance LS3
Build Thread
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Senior Member
I tried the grease with a stack of washers and, well, stripped the threads on the stud. I called FFR and ask them what they reccomend to get these installed, Dave advised to use an ABN Wheel Stud Tool.
I searched the interwebs and found them being sold from many places. I ordered one, along with more studs from FFR too!
Butter! The ABN tool is a bearing built for this very task. Sure, try the cheaper way with washers, but a few buxs and your golden!
Also, don't forget to grind down one side on the "head or back" so they seat better on the wheel bearing itself and don't interfere with the seal. If you have a wheel grinder, it can grind the "arc" pattern to match the wheel bearing. All the best in your build journey, ST!
Doug
Dj or Doug or TheLateDude
----- #19 of 25th Anniversary MKIV 9769 -----
Build Link:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Slow-Progress
Ordered: Oct 07, 2019 / Production: Dec 28th, 2019 / Shipped: Jan 19th, 2019 First Start: In the future... / Graduation: Even further in the future...