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Thread: The Brew City Cobra - 427W / IRS - Windshield, Gas Vent, and Exhaust

  1. #81
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    The push for the engine install is on! The next milestone is set – do whatever is needed to get the engine in and running, basically get the electrical locked down and get the dashboard mocked up. With that said, my most recent projects included building a pair of electrical “modules” to control the brake light and head light operation.

    BRAKE MODULE

    The first module is an insert to accommodate the brake-light device provided by FFR to accommodate the transition to square taillights. I know a few people placed this device in the rear of the car, but I decided it would be best to install the device behind the dash as a removable part of the main harness for a few reasons. 1 – it can be completely removed from the car and rebuilt should something fail, and 2 – I can now utilize the un-used wires in the rear harness (e.g., the purple brake lights wire) for other purposes.

    Generally speaking, the finished brake module is intended to be positioned between the main harness and the rear harness with (as seen in the picture) the left end attached to the main harness and the right end attached to the two connectors of the rear harness. You will also notice a third connector as well (a two-port at the top) that provides a connection point for the two circuits I added to the rear 1 – the trunk charging port and 2 – the trunk courtesy lights. The extra connector will ultimately be wired to the secondary fuse box once I get that installed.

    P1.jpg

    P2.png

    As you can see, the module is setup so that all the wires influenced by the brake device are directed through the brake device while any wires not influenced by the brake device are just carried through.

    HEADLIGHT MODULE

    The second module is a panel configured to accommodate the headlight operations and to act as a primary buss for the entire car. I decided early on that I didn’t want to run the pull-style headlight switch but rather wanted to replace the pull switch with three Lucas switches – 1) an “on/running/headlights” switch, 2) a high/low beam switch, and 3) a courtesy light switch. This panel will accommodate the operation of all three.

    P3.jpg

    P4.png

    Below is a schematic of the entire headlight circuit using relays and toggle switches (a Lucas 35927 and Lucas 34889 to be exact) to replicate the headlight pull switch:

    Screen Shot 2022-08-05 at 6.48.29 AM.png

    One of the more difficult aspects of the headlight module was how to mount it. I knew I wanted to keep the firewall clean of any bolts or fasteners so a separately mounted panel was needed. In the end, I decided to mount the panel to the square cross-member using a series of brackets. The brackets, in turn, serve two roles – to support the headlight panel and to act as a mounting location for the under-dash panel. I plan on using hidden fasteners for the dash so it was important that I be able to remove the under-dash panel without needing to remove the dash or body-shell first. I believe this design should accomodate that and be aesthetically pleasing. Time will tell once I get the dash finalized.

    P5.jpg

    P6.png

    You’ll notice I used two bolts to connect the bracket and the under-dash panel together. That was a small trick to allow me to remove the under-dash panel without having to disassemble the entire assembly. Basically, if I remove the left (driver) bolts, the panel will come off but the rest of the assembly stays connected. If I remove both bolts, the electrical panel can also be removed and maintained if needed.

    P7.jpg

    P8.png

    With the Headlight module in place, next step is to start wiring it in and running the front harness. More updates to follow.
    Last edited by BrewCityCobra; 08-05-2022 at 06:50 AM.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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  3. #82
    Senior Member 460.465USMC's Avatar
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    Impressive stuff on your electrical design, Brew! Makes my chicken scratch on notebook paper look like pre-school level electrical. I look forward to seeing yours all come together. The preliminary pictures look professional grade! Thanks for sharing.
    Chris
    Coupe complete kit delivered: 4/22/24. Build Thread. Coyote. T-56. IRS w/3.55. Wilwoods. PS. HVAC. Side windows.
    MK4 Complete kit. Build Thread Index. Delivered: 10/15/2020. Legal: 7/25/23. Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars. This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin. Build Thread.

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  5. #83
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    This electrical planning is impressive. :-)

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb/Heater/Heated Seats/Cruise Control/Drop Trunk & Battery/Custom Cubby

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  7. #84
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    As the electrical work continues to progress, I decided to provide a quick update on the “under-dash” panel. Generally speaking, I decided to build the under-dash panel from scratch as I liked the aesthetic of a completely enclosed bottom and thought it would help hide the tuft of wires building up behind the dashboard itself. The below photo also does a good job showing the underside bolts holding the panel in place which is the finished version of the bracket system I described in my previous post.

    underdash1.jpg

    As for the panel itself, there were a few items I was looking to mount underneath the dash 1) the courtesy lights, 2) a charging port, 3) the hazard flashers switch, and 4) an anchor point for a cell phone / lap timer mount. The courtesy lights and charging port are relatively straight forward, being positioned to emphasize utility and ease of access.

    The hazard switch was positioned more for aesthetics. Originally I wanted the Hazard switch to be positioned on the dash at the 2:30 position but I wasn’t able to find an appropriate DPST switch from Lucas so I decided to put the courtesy light switch on the dash and move the Hazard switch to the underside. Likely not much of an issue either way but just one of the million adaptations these cars require.

    underdash2.jpg

    The biggest adaptation for the underdash panel was the “Cell Phone” anchor points. The idea here was to provide a few threaded anchor points where a ram mount ball could be installed for attaching a cell-phone or lap-timer mount (or anything that can be attached to a ram mount ball really).

    Underdash5.jpg

    Underdash6.jpg

    To form the anchor points, I drilled and tapped a 6”x6” piece of 1/8” thick aluminum with two ¼-20 holes. The idea was to use the size and thickness of the plate to act as reinforcement so that the ram mount ball would be sturdy when threaded into either of the two anchor locations. The plate, in turn, was riveted to the underdash panel itself. By using the plate, the entire system is still self-contained so I can remove the underdash panel without having to detach any additional brackets or fasteners.

    Underdash7.jpg

    The result was surprisingly sturdy but the true test will come when this thing is driving down a highway / around a track. In the end I was very happy with the two mounting locations as well. I set one a bit further back so the phone/lap-timer would be recessed a bit under the dash and a forward location where the phone is just ahead of the dash and a bit more visible.

    underdash3.jpg

    underdash4.jpg

    Of course, one of the nice parts of this system is that if you don’t plan on using it you can un-thread the ball and the result is a nice clean look (like the first photo).

    Dashboard/wiring updates to follow.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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  9. #85
    Senior Member zee's Avatar
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    Brilliant. My design has the ram mount too, except I have quadlock with wireless charger.

    Alternatively, 3D print something and connect a magsafe charger to it.
    Last edited by zee; 06-16-2022 at 08:47 PM.
    Complete novice who doesn't know what he's doing.
    MKIV with BPE 347 & TKX. IRS. A crap ton of mods.
    Build thread

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  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by zee View Post
    Brilliant. My design has the ram mount too, except I have quadlock with wireless charger.

    Alternatively, 3D print something and connect a magsafe charger to it.
    I really like that quad-lock (I've never heard of those before). I've struggled with the X-Grip a bit in the past so I'll have to dig into that a bit deeper. Perks of the universality of those Ram Mount Balls I suppose.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

  12. #87
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    The ram mount ideas are great. It can hold a cell phone/GPS and maybe a tuner for track days. Just have a USB power, CAN Bus port, etc under the dash and you can mount a variety of devices. Very clever.
    Mk4 #10605 Ordered 5/28/2022. Received 3/18/2023
    Build Thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roaster-Build

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  14. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmosrcool View Post
    The ram mount ideas are great. It can hold a cell phone/GPS and maybe a tuner for track days. Just have a USB power, CAN Bus port, etc under the dash and you can mount a variety of devices. Very clever.
    Exactly what I was thinking - and why I mounted that charging port right next to the anchor points. Should allow anything that is supported by that RAM ball to have easy access to that charger.

    That said, I'm still doing my research on the best way to setup a CAN or other data acquisition system for these cars, especially with a carbureted version like mine since everything is "dumb" and there is no computer to tap into.

    Right now I have my eyes on a AIM Solo 2 DL with the expectation that I can start out with just the unit itself (giving me GPS, timer, and the software) but can always expand the system to include additional sensors (throttle, brake, RPM, and the like) as I gain experience and can actually use those inputs.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

  15. #89
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    So it has been a while since my last post due to some big family developments (my wife and I welcomed our first child) - so I have a few updates in the hopper that I will be posting here soon.

    First up, I am pleased to report that we officially have a working electrical system. I probably spent a small fortune on weather pack connectors, electrical components, and beer but in the end everything worked on the first go-around so I can’t complain. I still need to clean up the wire routing and packaging but at we are all set from a functionality standpoint.

    20220713_213145.jpg

    20220723_135811.jpg

    As discussed in my earlier posts, I had a few modifications the RF harness needed to be modified to accept, the largest of which was removing the headlight pull knob provided by FFR and replacing it with a pair of Lucas toggle switches. I also wanted to incorporate the Russ Thompson turn signal kit, a modified cooling fan circuit, some indicator LED lights, heated seats, and charging ports into the RF harness as well.

    In the end, I felt the easiest path forward was to basically go-through the various harnesses wire-by-wire to make sure all of the new systems played nice while maximizing how much of the original harness could be used and eliminating as much waste as possible. The result was the “master schematic” shown below which I was able to incorporate into the harness during the build.

    Master Schematic SS.png

    By finalizing the schematic, I was also able to finalize and assemble the layout of the dashboard which was a welcome accomplishment. Nothing too crazy here, just a variation of the competition dash layout with added indicators and a modified switch layout. I’ll install the padded leather and glovebox a little later in the build.

    20220723_164754.jpg

    Labeled Dash.jpg

    DashboardNight.jpg


    A few changes/modifications to point out:

    - The two left toggles next to the speedo now control the headlight operation (in place of the pull switch from FFR). The lower switch is a Lucas 35927 (from Period Correct) and is wired so that when the switch is in the “down” position all lights are in an off condition; when the switch is in the “middle” position just the running lights and dash lights are activated; and when the switch is in the “up” position all of the running lights, dash lights, and headlights are powered. Furthermore, when the headlights are powered (e.g., the lower switch is in the “up” position), the top switch serves to control the high/low beam setting through a Lucas 34889 (also from Period Correct; in low beam “down” position and high beam in the “middle” position).

    - The lower right switch next to the speedo serves to turn the courtesy lights in the cockpit on and off. Pretty straight forward.

    - The upper right switch next to the speedo controls the cooling fan operation using a Lucas 35927. When the switch is in the “down” position the fan operates automatically (e.g., being controlled via the thermostat); when the switch is in the “middle” position the fan is disabled and will not run regardless of engine temp; and finally when the switch is in the “up” position the fan will run manually regardless of engine temp. I did run this switch off a keyed source to stop passers-by from accidentally (or intentionally) turning on the fan without having the key.

    - All four switches are wired so that they are positioned in the “down” position when the car is in its normal operation condition (e.g., headlights off, low beams, courtesy lights off, fan on auto) - purely aesthetic but I thought a nice touch.

    - I added a “cooling fan indicator” (e.g., a green LED) that is activated only when the fan is running manually (e.g., the fan control switch is in the up position). I added this indicator so that I would not have to worry about accidentally leaving the fan on during a track day or the like and running out the battery. It won’t be illuminated when the fan is running as a result of the thermostat, just manually.

    - I also added a “fuel pump cutoff” switch below the dash on the left side of the steering column to allow the driver to cut the electric fuel pump in case of an emergency (or any other purpose really) independent of the inertia switch. I figure this can serve as kill switch if needed as well.

    - Due to aesthetic reasons I only included a single turn-signal indicator to represent both left and right directions. To make sure there was no feedback in the circuit I incorporated a Hy-Power Diode. The Hy-Power is a nice unit that allows two power sources to merge into one load without allowing back flow to either of the sources. (https://www.amazon.com/Roadmaster-79...s%2C95&sr=8-25)

    - Finally, I also added a secondary fuse block in the driver’s foot well. The secondary fuse block is intended to power any “always on” accessories like the headlight circuit, charging ports, heated seats, footbox vent fans, and the trunk lights.

    20221118_185146.jpg
    Last edited by BrewCityCobra; 11-19-2022 at 12:33 AM.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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  17. #90
    Senior Member 460.465USMC's Avatar
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    Congrats on the birth of your first child, Brew! I hope everyone is healthy and well.

    You have some mad electrical skills. Not just anyone can whip out a schematic like that. My chicken scratch schematics on lined college rule paper are in some serious envy.

    It's a great feeling to have the gauges and electrical in place and functional. Nice work reaching this milestone. Your build is really taking shape.
    Chris
    Coupe complete kit delivered: 4/22/24. Build Thread. Coyote. T-56. IRS w/3.55. Wilwoods. PS. HVAC. Side windows.
    MK4 Complete kit. Build Thread Index. Delivered: 10/15/2020. Legal: 7/25/23. Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars. This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin. Build Thread.

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  19. #91
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    The engine is in! With all of the electrical and other prep work completed on the Roadster it was finally time to mate the heart with the body. A nerve-racking few minutes but in the end my dad and I were able to wrestle the engine into place.

    The setup and process was pretty standard fare following many of the build threads I’ve seen on here (and thank you to everyone who posts). The rigging included using an engine leveler and attaching the four chain points on the heads directly. We were forced to use some washers between the brackets and the heads to give a bit of clearance so that none of the chains would rub or leave a mark (especially on the gasket surface for the thermostat housing). We also had to remove the thermostat housing, alternator, and power steering pump for clearance.

    rigging.jpg

    As for the install itself, the only kink we ran into was that the front chassis sat too low so we couldn’t initially get the engine hoist in place. We ultimately placed the wheels up on some blocks which felt a bit precarious - forcing us to place a 2x4 against the brake pedal so the wheels wouldn’t roll off as we jacked up the rear end. In the end - we were able to get everything in place. Beers all around.

    LiftEngine.jpg

    enginein2.jpg

    enginein1.jpg

    Now to get the engine grafted to the rest of the car and first start.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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  21. #92
    Senior Member Mike.Bray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrewCityCobra View Post
    The engine is in! With all of the electrical and other prep work completed on the Roadster it was finally time to mate the heart with the body. A nerve-racking few minutes but in the end my dad and I were able to wrestle the engine into place.

    The setup and process was pretty standard fare following many of the build threads I’ve seen on here (and thank you to everyone who posts). The rigging included using an engine leveler and attaching the four chain points on the heads directly. We were forced to use some washers between the brackets and the heads to give a bit of clearance so that none of the chains would rub or leave a mark (especially on the gasket surface for the thermostat housing). We also had to remove the thermostat housing, alternator, and power steering pump for clearance.

    rigging.jpg

    As for the install itself, the only kink we ran into was that the front chassis sat too low so we couldn’t initially get the engine hoist in place. We ultimately placed the wheels up on some blocks which felt a bit precarious - forcing us to place a 2x4 against the brake pedal so the wheels wouldn’t roll off as we jacked up the rear end. In the end - we were able to get everything in place. Beers all around.

    LiftEngine.jpg

    enginein2.jpg

    enginein1.jpg

    Now to get the engine grafted to the rest of the car and first start.
    Congratulations! A very exciting time for you. Love that engine.

    I see you've got the same "good" leveler that I used the second time. It really makes it easy.
    My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build

    Thread on Stainless Steel AN brake lines.

    Thread on fasteners and torque wrenches.

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  23. #93
    Senior Member 460.465USMC's Avatar
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    Congrats, Brew. It's a good feeling to have it nestled down and in place. I hear you on the nerve-wracking minutes while the drivetrain is suspended mid-air, above the chassis. Looking forward to hearing your 427 rumble to life.
    Chris
    Coupe complete kit delivered: 4/22/24. Build Thread. Coyote. T-56. IRS w/3.55. Wilwoods. PS. HVAC. Side windows.
    MK4 Complete kit. Build Thread Index. Delivered: 10/15/2020. Legal: 7/25/23. Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars. This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin. Build Thread.

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  25. #94
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    With the engine in place the next step was to get all of the peripherals installed and connections made so we can get to first start. It is amazing how much more substance the build has with the engine in the chassis. Also gives a big momentum boost knowing how close the next major milestones are.

    ACCESSORIES / WIRING / FUEL

    The first item on the checklist was to get the accessories bolted back on to the front of the block after being removed to make room for the chains during the lifting process. This was a pretty straight forward process using Forte’s tensioner system although copious pictures were taken to make sure we re-assembled everything in the right order.

    accessorybelt.jpg

    As for the wiring and fuel connections, we tried our best to keep everything neat and tidy. I used the corrugated plastic wire looms for organization but are considering replacing those with the woven fiberglass high-temperature looms in the future. For now, I think we are OK as I can’t imagine it gets all that hot where the looms are run (e.g., along the top of the intake manifold). If I am mistaken temperature-wise please don’t hesitate to let me know as I’d rather replace that now than find out the hard way later on.

    passattach2.jpg

    driverattach2.jpg

    For the sending unit connections, you will see that I ended up drilling and tapping the thermostat housing for the cooling fan thermostat while the water temp gauge sending unit is mounted to the boss formed in the intake manifold just below the ignition coil on the driver side (it is hidden in these photos). As for the oil pressure and idiot light switch I installed a two-port pressure extension to accommodate those two elements.

    Sensorattachment.jpg

    The hardest sending unit to accommodate was the oil temperature gauge (whose wiring harness is freely dangling in the above photo). Unfortunately, the oil pan that came with my engine did not include the necessary port for mounting the oil temperature sensor so I needed to be a bit creative. Mike Forte was nice enough to drill and tap the oil thermostat sandwich plate to accommodate the oil temperature sending unit.

    sandwich plate.jpg

    For now, I am waiting to install the sandwich plate (and oil cooler) until later on in the build. I figure it is just another complication that can go wrong during the engine start/go-cart process and isn’t really needed at this point. I’ll circle back to that when I dig into the “nose” aluminum panels later on.

    THROTTLE LINKAGE

    I also worked to finalize the Forte throttle linkage assembly. I totally underestimated the amount of adjustability present in the linkage assembly (especially when paired with a Russ Thompson throttle pedal) so it took a bit to decide exactly how I wanted to set things up. In the end, my goal was to maximize pedal travel from idle to full throttle so I could have more nuanced control over engine power deployment. I also tried my best to align the gas pedal with the brake in the idle position to help with heel-toeing (although some final adjustment may be needed once I get the car out on the road).

    20221207_180521.jpg

    One item I failed to appreciate was how important it was to install the provided roll pins to secure the aluminum arms to the central linkage rod. When testing the throttle I pushed the gas pedal too far causing the aluminum arms to rotate and throwing off my alignment - lesson learned. I subsequently pulled the throttle out and drilled for the pins. It was a little difficult to install the pins in-situ but in the end I think everything turned out alright (in the end I was only able to partially insert the pin so it is in single-shear not double-shear but I don’t think that will be an issue given the forces at play here).

    One part of the throttle linkage that had me up at night was trying to decide how to seal the point where the linkage passes through the driver-side footbox. I originally attempted to merely drill a hole through a rubber grommet but not only did that result in a bad seal - the friction between the two elements ended up messing with the smoothness of the throttle itself.

    In the end, I found the best solution was to combine 1) the provided FFR grommets initially intended for use with the battery cables, and 2) a 3/8 black oxide bushing from McMaster (PN 93762A300). The bushing creates a smooth rotating joint with the linkage rod with impressively tight clearances therebetween, while the grommet is thin and flexible enough to permit the relative angle between the footbox wall and the rod to be accommodated. The resulting joint also has effectively no rotating friction between the two elements and probably as sealed-up as possible without going totally overboard.

    20220904_140445.jpg

    20220904_140451.jpg

    20220904_153801.jpg

    20220904_153937.jpg

    Time will tell how it holds up but for now all seems well.

    Next up - the power steering and coolant overflow tank.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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  27. #95
    Senior Member Fman's Avatar
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    Engine looks great, those Ford valve covers add a nice custom look... I also really like your serpentine set up with the auto tensioner. Nice work!
    Build #9818 completed 04/2021 - Dart SBF 427, PF4 EFI, TKO600 Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...utton-head-mod
    Build review video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6IAbo2sFt4&t=1111s My finished car: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1638415131

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  29. #96
    Senior Member Mike.Bray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrewCityCobra View Post
    I used the corrugated plastic wire looms for organization but are considering replacing those with the woven fiberglass high-temperature looms in the future.

    passattach2.jpg
    I'm not a big fan of the corrugated wire loom either although I did keep some that was on the RF harness. I much prefer these.

    Just out of curiosity, why did you run the fuel line up and do a 180 the the carb feed?
    My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build

    Thread on Stainless Steel AN brake lines.

    Thread on fasteners and torque wrenches.

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  31. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike.Bray View Post
    I'm not a big fan of the corrugated wire loom either although I did keep some that was on the RF harness. I much prefer these.

    Just out of curiosity, why did you run the fuel line up and do a 180 the the carb feed?
    Agreed on the loom comment. After posting this it has been bothering me more and more. I actually used the Del-City fibeglass woven loom (https://www.delcity.net/store/Fiberg...06821.h_806822) for the battery/starter harness which appears to be similar to what you linked to. I have a bit of cleanup to do on the wiring front anyways (I need to incorporate the MSD 6AL I just installed) so I'll probably swap that out. Appreciate the input.

    As for the 180 connector (I figured somebody would comment on that). The short answer is a bit of laziness. This was my thought process - the carb was originally setup for a mechanical fuel pump (thus the forward facing input connector). I was about to swap it around (so it would be attached using a straight connector at the rear) but I ended up deciding against it because 1) I didn't want to mess with it and any resulting leaks (e.g., lazy), 2) because my regulator is just close enough to the rear mounting point the resulting line would be relatively short and stiff while running it the long way and using a 180 degree connector would result in plenty of flex in the line for when the engine moves around during operation, and 3) I figured the actual gas flow wouldn't be all that great so the flow losses through that connector probably wouldn't matter. Basically I figured it was a horse a piece and didn't have to disassemble anything to do it the way I did.

    That said, if you are aware of any reasons what I did may be a problem let me know as changing it to a shorter straight connection wouldn't be all that difficult and I have the necessary fittings sitting in a box in my garage.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

  32. #98
    Senior Member Mike.Bray's Avatar
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    My Fast EFI harness came with that type of loom which was the first time I had seen it (was out of the car building business for a few years). I really liked it although it's a bit of a pain to install.

    LOL on the fuel line. TBH I haven't touched a carburetor since the early 90's so who am I to offer advice, I'm strictly an EFI guy. It was just an unusual setup and peaked my interest.

    Love your engine!
    My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build

    Thread on Stainless Steel AN brake lines.

    Thread on fasteners and torque wrenches.

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  34. #99
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    After completing the wiring, throttle, and fuel connections, it was time to tackle the last of the connection points in anticipation of first start - the power steering system, coolant overflow tank, the exhaust, and the Boig cool tubes.

    POWER STEERING

    Like many, my engine build included a KRC power steering pump and the FFR provided power steering rack. After doing a bit of reading (primarily EdwardB) I decided it was worth including a small power steering cooler just to make sure the fluid temperatures stayed in check during track and autocross action.

    powersteeringh2.jpg

    The cooler itself was a Derale 2 pass cooler having a -6AN inlet and outlet (https://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/13310/10002/-1). I positioned the cooler on the back side of the radiator attaching it to the radiator shroud - again referencing EdwardB's build. I had considered some locations more directly aligned with the airflow through the car but I figure the cooling capacity needed here is probably borderline overkill anyways so this should be fine. If any cooling/temperature issues do arise in the future the cooler itself can be moved pretty easily.

    As for the fittings and hoses, I ended purchasing -6AN Stainless Steel PTFE Power Steering hose from Pegasus along with the appropriate steel -6AN fittings to handle the pressure. Assembly was actually quite smooth overall but I am glad I purchased a few extra “acorns” when an adjustment/redo was needed.

    PowerSteering1.jpg

    powersteering3.jpg

    COOLANT OVERFLOW TANK

    The other major installation was the overflow tank for the coolant system. Like a few other builds, I decided to replace the provided FFR overflow tank with a larger unit. I ultimately went with a 2 QT. Canton tank (No. 80-201) - the thought process being the larger can would assure that even on the hottest track days and red lights the catch can should be able to contain any expansion without spilling over. My original plan was to mount the tank on the driver-side F-panel but the fit didn’t seem right. Mounting on the driver side would result in the tank being positioned directly above the alternator’s 200A circuit breaker and there wasn’t really enough space on the passenger side with the power steering (and future oil cooler) plumbing. In the end, I decided to build a bracket to position the tank in front of the engine above the circular cross-members and generally aligned with the radiator cap.

    cardboardseuptank.jpg

    Tank1Finished.jpg

    TankFinished2.jpg

    TankFinished3.jpg

    I mocked-up the bracket in cardboard first and re-made it using sheet metal. I went with thicker material to help support the weight of the fluid in the tank but may have over-done it a bit - that bracket sure is sturdy and the material was an absolute pain to work with. Nothing quite like excess.

    There is still some finish-work to be done on the bracket (powder coating, a support bracket at the bottom for stability, some reinforcing side-walls on the bracket for added strength and a finished look, etc.) but the current mock-up seems to show proof of concept and should be sufficient for engine start/go-cart.

    I used some left over stainless braided hose to plumb the connection between the tank and the radiator pressure cap, and an overflow line directed to the underside of the car to dump any excess overboard. I’m not really sure if there is any strategy to locating the overflow line (any spilt liquid will be a pain and mess regardless) but if I am missing something strategic here please let me know.

    QUESTION TO THE GROUP: I’m not crazy about the cap for the Canton overflow can and was looking for something a bit more “aesthetically pleasing”. Does anybody know where/if one can be sourced? I couldn’t find anything for that type of connection. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

    EXHAUST

    Finally, I also got the exhaust assembled. Following what I found to be the general consensus of the Board, I decided to ditch the gaskets and seal the two primary connections with Ultra Copper RTV Silicone (e.g., between the inlet flange of the header and the head, and between the outlet flange of the header and the side-pipe).

    20221105_184302.jpg

    I really can’t get over how well made the GASN side pipes are. Truly beautiful parts. I ended up going with the “Standard” sound level pipes which I understood to strike a decent balance between sound (Cobra side-pipes are the best sounding cars around, I will die on that hill) and not blowing my eardrums out.

    PassWide.jpg

    DriverWide.jpg

    Those who look closely will see I accidentally installed the side-pipes on the wrong side (e.g., with the brackets up) but I will swap that back when I assemble everything for the last time. For now, I want to limit how many times I crank on those ball joints.

    And with all of that the Brew City Cobra is officially ready for its first start and go cart. Let the games begin!
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

  35. #100
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    Looking good!

    Craig C

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  37. #101
    Senior Member Fman's Avatar
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    WOW! Really looking sweet... nice work on everything. Looking forward to seeing your first start video! #427
    Build #9818 completed 04/2021 - Dart SBF 427, PF4 EFI, TKO600 Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...utton-head-mod
    Build review video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6IAbo2sFt4&t=1111s My finished car: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1638415131

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  39. #102
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    She runs! I was fortunate that both my father and father-in-law were in town and able to take part in the first start and first go-cart experience. Both are big car guys and have been invaluable when it comes to helping out with the build. Milestones like this really help re-charge the emotional batteries for the final push to finish things up.

    That said, before we could get the engine going there were a few tasks that needed to be checked off the list, namely, to get the engine filled with coolant and to set the timing (we had to remove the distributor to get the engine in the chassis and lost our spot).

    As for the coolant – the attachable radiator funnel was absolutely invaluable (thank you Fman for bringing it to my attention; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I honestly don’t know how you can fill these engines without one unless you are ready to spill everywhere.

    20221109_173201.jpg

    20221109_173820.jpg

    20221109_173832.jpg

    As a side note, I struggled like crazy trying to decide what coolant to run for the engine setup (probably more a symptom of analysis paralysis than anything). I ultimately decided to keep it simple and go with Napa Green Antifreeze & Coolant (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NAF1GAL). It was the one conventional ethylene glycol coolant I could find that explicitly said it was safe for engines with aluminum parts. Done and Done. I swear if you read enough boards that you will find somebody advocating for and against each coolant that exists in the universe, add that to the fact the engine has both aluminum and cast iron parts and it is just enough to make one second guess himself from time to time. In the end I figured you can’t go wrong with the green stuff so I just decided to run with this. If anybody knows this is a mistake just let me know.

    As for getting everything started – we struggled a bit not realizing we had installed the distributor with the rotor being off by a tooth so we couldn’t get it to fire up. In the end though, a little trial and error, a few tasteful cuss words, a puff or two of smoke, and it fired up like a champ. Per Mike Forte’s recommendation we ended up setting the engine to 32 degrees of total advance at around 3000 RPM with the vacuum advance disconnected. I didn’t have a timing light so decided to go with the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 worked like a charm. Just listen to that puppy purr…..

    VIDEO: https://youtube.com/shorts/FNB4_uR-WOs?feature=share

    Special thanks to GasN for that lovely sound (GasN Sidepipes, Standard – MidRange sound).

    After spending the rest of the night letting the engine get up to temp, making sure the overflow tank was working as intended, and re-checking the timing; we took to the road the next day for the first go-cart.

    VIDEO: https://youtu.be/KhbkJe9RMD4

    VIDEO: https://youtu.be/IK4q-mBTSy0

    Unfortunately, we weren’t able to really get the car up and running at any form of speed as we soon discovered the rear-driver wheel was WAAAYYY out of alignment and the back end started slipping around like it was on ice skates above 25 MPH, but the drive itself was a success. Brakes worked great, engine and pedals felt great, power steering was a dream, and the gauges all worked as intended.

    Hopefully by the time the weather in Wisconsin is nice again (or at least somewhat acceptable) I’ll have the seats, dash, interior, and alignment finalized so we can give the ole’ girl a bit more of a push and get a better feel for how it handles. But for now, a few beers are in order before re-setting and getting back to the grind. The push for paint has officially begun.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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  41. #103
    Senior Member 460.465USMC's Avatar
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    Congrats, Brew! Two big milestones back to back. She sounds really good. Sharp looking motor and build.
    Chris
    Coupe complete kit delivered: 4/22/24. Build Thread. Coyote. T-56. IRS w/3.55. Wilwoods. PS. HVAC. Side windows.
    MK4 Complete kit. Build Thread Index. Delivered: 10/15/2020. Legal: 7/25/23. Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars. This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin. Build Thread.

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  43. #104
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    Nice!

    Craig C

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  45. #105
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    As the weather starts to turn the race is now on to get the car ready for the painters. My painter said he should have an opening sometime near the end of the year so it should be close – but hopefully I can pull it off. I feel like reaching go-cart stage is always interesting as you feel like you have completed so much – but still have a good amount to go.

    The first two projects I tried to tackle included 1) a test fit of the body shell to get an initial feel for fit, and 2) fabricating the quick-disconnect for the steering wheel.

    As for the shell, I have to admit I haven’t really touched it since I took delivery – so it was a bit of an adventure to see how things would actually fit. The primary concern with this first fitting was the dashboard – and specifically to confirm that all of the gauges and LEDs have enough clearance from the “dash lip” so I can begin work on wrapping the dash in leather. All looked good aside from the blue “high-beam” LED that I’ll need to shift down a bit but otherwise I think we are good to go on that front. The water temp gauge is a bit closer to the lip than I'd prefer but not sure it is worth digging into the dash material to move it a 1/16" or so down. Will probably just let that be.

    dashfitting.jpg

    dashfit2.jpg

    Aside from the dash there does seem to be some potential fitting concerns on the body that will need to be tackled eventually – primarily the side-pipe fitment (passenger side in particular) and the passenger side windshield opening. I still need to trim the dashboard lip to move the entire body forward about a half inch so I guess I’ll just table those concerns until I have the body on and located for good. Fingers crossed.

    body1.jpg

    driversidepipe.jpg

    QUICK-DISCONNECT STEERING WHEEL

    On the fabrication front, I finally got around to pulling together the quick-disconnect for the steering wheel. Like many, I purchased and modified an NRG thin quick-connect and the provided FFR steering wheel for the final assembly. The help on the board for this particular project was invaluable. I didn’t end up using the 3D-printed jigs that I saw floating around but did purchase a drill press for the project. I don’t really see how you can do this without one (plus I had been meaning to get one anyway).

    In the end, I was really happy the end result. The utility is certainly an advantage and the connection itself is nice and sturdy with very little (if any) play.

    connector1.jpg

    connector2.jpg

    connector3.jpg

    connector4.jpg

    connector5.jpg

    Started tackling the seats/seat heaters/seat sliders so should have another update soon.
    Last edited by BrewCityCobra; 05-01-2023 at 10:55 PM.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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  47. #106
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    Looks great.
    Jeff_J

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  49. #107
    Ted G's Avatar
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    Looking great! I just did my steering disconnect this past weekend too! Love the ease of this disconnect and, going forward, when you need to get into your footbox or fuse panel, this will be a back saver for sure.
    #10333 Complete Kit, Carbed 427w, TKX, IRS and many other upgrades

    • Order Date: September 11, 2021 - 20th Anniversary of 9/11
    • Delivery Day: April 1, 2022 - April Fool's Day
    • First Start and Go-Kart: January 20th, 2023
    • Graduation Date: July 4th, 2023 - Independence Day!!
    • Legal Registration Date: October 4, 2023 - My Birthday!!


    Visit my MKIV Build Thread (#10333)

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  51. #108
    Senior Member Mike.Bray's Avatar
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    What model are you guys using? Do you have a link?
    My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build

    Thread on Stainless Steel AN brake lines.

    Thread on fasteners and torque wrenches.

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  53. #109
    Ted G's Avatar
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    I think you can use a couple of their styles, I used NRG SRK-400CF. Here is the link: https://getnrg.com/collections/quick...oducts/srk-400

    All will need to be modified to fit the FFR Steering wheel and hub. Took me a few hours to complete.
    #10333 Complete Kit, Carbed 427w, TKX, IRS and many other upgrades

    • Order Date: September 11, 2021 - 20th Anniversary of 9/11
    • Delivery Day: April 1, 2022 - April Fool's Day
    • First Start and Go-Kart: January 20th, 2023
    • Graduation Date: July 4th, 2023 - Independence Day!!
    • Legal Registration Date: October 4, 2023 - My Birthday!!


    Visit my MKIV Build Thread (#10333)

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  55. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted G View Post
    Looking great! I just did my steering disconnect this past weekend too! Love the ease of this disconnect and, going forward, when you need to get into your footbox or fuse panel, this will be a back saver for sure.
    Agreed, I was a little nervous at first as to how "sturdy" the thin model would be but am very impressed with the finished product. I think the utility will be much appreciated next time I'm crawing in the Driver footbox.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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  57. #111
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    So a bit of a side-quest over the past two weekends as I took a break to install a MaxJax lift in the garage to help with this and hopefully future builds. It was something I have been wanting to do for some time. The install itself consisted of two primary segments, the first having someone contracted to pour a pair of 12” thick pads into the floor, and the second installing the lift itself.

    20230501_113332.jpg

    As for the layout, I tried to expand on the utility of the MaxJax being movable by establishing two “configurations.” The first or “narrow” configuration is tuned to the width of the Cobra (and my 944) and allows me to still have enough room to park a car in the second stall. In contrast, the second or “wide” configuration places the towers as far apart as allowable to accommodate wider cars but at the tradeoff of not allowing enough space for a second car to be parked in the garage.

    Screen Shot 2023-05-27 at 9.22.04 AM.png
    (Dark blue rectangles represent tower mounting locations, yellow areas are the pads, the cobra box represents the general length and width of a cobra)

    In all, I was happy with how the pads turned out and the install itself went very smoothly. One variation from the traditional MaxJax install was the ditching of the cart and instead mounting the pump to the wall and running the hoses along the ceiling to keep them out of the way. I’ve seen others do that and it just seems like a much cleaner install. I still have a bit of work to do to get the hoses completely cleaned up – but we have a working lift! A few photos below. Now back to the build.

    20230520_151243.jpg

    20230527_093611.jpg

    20230524_233209.jpg

    20230524_233013.jpg
    Last edited by BrewCityCobra; 05-27-2023 at 11:05 AM.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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  59. #112
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    That looks great, and maybe gives me a path to do it too. So, did they basically cut the floor, break out the old, dig to the correct depth, pour the new?

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  61. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by zarnold View Post
    That looks great, and maybe gives me a path to do it too. So, did they basically cut the floor, break out the old, dig to the correct depth, pour the new?
    Yup, basically you can install them one of two ways - first, your existing concrete is already thick enough so you can just drive the anchors into it, the second is to have some pads installed. As for how it was done, you basically hit the nail on the head. My father and I measured and marked the outlines for the two pads and contracted a team to come in to cut the floor, break up the existing concrete, install connecting rebar, and pour a new pad. The MaxJax instructions actually set forth the type of concrete and size of pad needed to support the lift (basically 3 foot by 3 foot square that is 12" thick - the instructions can be downloaded from their website if you are interested in the specifics).

    In the end I decided not to even test my existing slab as I wanted to be extra safe and went with the pads. A bit more expensive, but I think worth it given I'll be under that thing.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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  63. #114
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    So I ran into a pair of “Stray from the Build Plan” projects the past few weeks. So far I have been pretty lucky in the sense the build has been following the original plans I set forth at the beginning and any provisions that needed to be taken into account early-on (e.g., wiring, brackets, etc.) was in place when things were easiest to get to. That changed these past couple weeks as I decided to pull out the old E-brake system and replace it with an electronic Wilwood kit, and upgrade the ignition to include an MSD 6AL unit. Not the worst changes, but man this would have been a lot easier if I just planned on using these items from the get-go.

    WILWOOD E-BRAKE KIT

    As for the E-brake swap, ever since I installed the original manual system the quality of the FFR E-brake handle and its operation just did not sit well with me. As I got closer and closer to installing the carpet I realized that my window for doing anything about the manual lever was about to close and finally decided to pull the trigger on the Wilwood kit – which seemed just a little too good to pass up (price-point not withstanding).

    The Wilwood kit itself is very intuitive to install. Basically a switch (a high quality billet piece), a control unit, a harness, and a pair of electronic calipers. The calipers are a one-for-one swap with the manual calipers that come with FFR’s rear IRS kit. The key is to install them “backwards” (or what I perceived to be backwards) so the motors are facing the front of the car so as to avoid interference with the coil-overs.

    20230527_111906.jpg

    20230527_111913.jpg

    20230527_111920.jpg

    The fit is certainly tight but I found mounting the harness to the frame nearby made sure there would not be any clearance issues with the spring through the suspensions range of motion. The harness provided by Wilwood appears to be very high quality with all high-quality connectors. Running the harness through the frame would have been a much earlier job if I had done it earlier in the build (e.g., before the cockpit and trunk aluminum was installed) but I was able to get it snaked through without too much issue.

    The control unit mounting was where I had the biggest problem. Since I had not planned on using the Wilwood kit initially, I did not work out a mounting location ahead of time and had to mount the unit with whatever space I had left. I ultimately settled on placing it behind the dash against the firewall – relying on the MSD box on the opposite side to hide the resulting bolt holes from view. It wasn’t a perfect solution and will likely cause me to shrink the glovebox a bit, but it was the best I could come up with given the options I had left. Biggest draw back is that I’ll need to remove the dash to access it should it ever fail. Here’s praying to the Wilwood gods that never happens.

    20230608_210058.jpg

    The control switch was another conundrum. The switch itself is a very high-quality item – billet aluminum with a very crisp action. It even has a built-in red indicator ring that lights up when the E-brake is activated. If I was going for a more modern aesthetic I would have had no problem showing that switch off but because I wanted to keep my dash traditional, I decided to mount it on the underside of the dash just outside the steering wheel column.

    20230606_111309.jpg

    20230606_111400.jpg

    The biggest downside to this mounting location is that you lose utility of the red indicator light incorporated into the switch itself. Fortunately, Wilwood does include instructions on how to wire-in a remote indicator (although it requires the use of a sold-state relay). I did end up wiring up an LED that matched those I already had incorporated into the dash and plan to mount it next to the manual fan light indicator. Aesthetic maintained!

    20230608_210149 copy.jpg

    In the end, install was pretty straight forward and the only issues I ran into were the result of when I installed it, not due to the kit itself. One item to mention is that I would have preferred to power the kit from my secondary fuse block as I left a few circuits open for exactly this type of situation. Unfortunately due to the 40-AMP draw the kit requires, my BlueSea Systems block was just not up to the task (30A per individual circuit max) and I was forced to purchase a separate Maxi fuse block for the 40 amp duties. So in the end I needed to find a mounting location in the cockpit for 4 new items (Billet switch, Maxi Fuse Block, Wilwood Control Unit, and the Solid State Relay).

    20230527_111422.jpg

    MSD 6AL

    The second “re-do” was to incorporate an MSD 6AL into the ignition system of the engine. When I originally selected the specs for the engine with Mike Forte, I had wanted to make sure I had a rev-limiter to avoid getting too high into the RPM band during track duties (and just for missed shifts in general). Due to the COVID backlogs and part shortages, I was forced to go with an Ignitor II instead of the planned Ignitor III – which did not have a rev-limiter built in. I thought I could just deal with it but the situation bugged me enough that I decided to do something about it now before the body was on and it was REALLY difficult – enter the MSD.

    20230607_101049.jpg

    20230607_101021.jpg
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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  65. #115
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    Those look nice. Wonder how long before someone uses them on the front for line lock, burnouts?
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

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  67. #116
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    Great Info, I have the e-brake kit sitting on the shelf ready for my kit. (delivery slated for end on June).

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  69. #117
    Senior Member 460.465USMC's Avatar
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    The Wilwood E-brake is nice, and very functional upgrade, Brew. I like it.
    Chris
    Coupe complete kit delivered: 4/22/24. Build Thread. Coyote. T-56. IRS w/3.55. Wilwoods. PS. HVAC. Side windows.
    MK4 Complete kit. Build Thread Index. Delivered: 10/15/2020. Legal: 7/25/23. Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars. This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin. Build Thread.

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  71. #118
    Senior Member FLPBFoot's Avatar
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    Nov 2017
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    Cape Coral, FL
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    I just got the brakes on the IRS and left off the manual ebrake because I'm upgrading to the electric ones. Thanks for the details. Answered my question of this caliper being a direct swap out of the manual ebrake to the electric one. You mention 40 amp run rating, is this while the motor is running to actuate and then remove the ebrake? Once done locking or unlocking there is no current draw?
    2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print EFI 306 with AOD trans, and under car exhaust. Ford Eruption Green with saddle leather interior.
    1st build - Mk4 Roadster #9319, received 4-10-18. IL registration 8/6/19. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, Holley 750, TKO 600, 0.64 OD. Paint Dec 2020. Ruby Red with Carbon Flash Black metallic stripes.

  72. #119
    Senior Member
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    May 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLPBFoot View Post
    I just got the brakes on the IRS and left off the manual ebrake because I'm upgrading to the electric ones. Thanks for the details. Answered my question of this caliper being a direct swap out of the manual ebrake to the electric one. You mention 40 amp run rating, is this while the motor is running to actuate and then remove the ebrake? Once done locking or unlocking there is no current draw?
    The kit requires two power feeds, a constant feed and a keyed feed. The constant feed has a 40 amp fuse incorporated into it and the Keyed is 5 (I'm pretty sure.

    As for the operation, the motors only draw power when they are transitioning between engaged and disengaged configurations. Once locked (or unlocked), they do not draw any power that I can tell. The "keyed feed" is to allow the system to shut off with the ignition. For example, if you engage the brake, the motors will draw power as they lock-up, then the red LED (and switch ring) will glow so long as the ignition is powered. Once you turn the car completely off everything shuts down. When you turn the car on next time, the LEDs will light back up and remain so until you unlock the system or turn the key back off.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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  74. #120
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    fantastic build! love your electrical diagrams! what software are you using to create those?
    Todd
    25th Anniversary MkIV | #20 of 25 | Build #9772
    https://cobradreams.com/ <- my build!

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