Jesse builds another Cobra #11,061 - It's cold

[Blitzboy54]

Blitz, the dash looks awesome and thanks for the link to the vinyl wrap too! I was planning on doing my lower dash kick-out and trans tunnel in real carbon fiber, but maybe this an easier route to go? I’ll have to decide on which direction to go. Again thanks for sharing that info.

Jeff, here is a link to those seats. They are the model: Stoneleigh - (Not cheap but you can go full customized with them).
https://intatrim.co.uk/products/stoneleigh/

I was considering getting those as well, but now I’m thinking of getting Corbeau Evolution X seats. I’m just not sure if these will fit?

Doug

I put these in.

Cobra Monaco Pro

https://www.cobraseats-usa.com/item/...pro/motorsport

They are the same size according to the website. My only caviet is I put a previous version in. I don't know if the updated ones are the same dimensions. Also when I say they fit, they JUST FIT. No wiggle room whatsoever. If I had needed them closer to the foot box I could not have used them.

I think you will be ok but I would mock something up before committing to the purchase.

[ydousurf]

Thanks for the input/feedback, Blitz! Yeah, I really like those seats too! I’m actually looking for the option to have seat heaters installed in them, and that is why I was looking at either the Stoneleigh or Evolution. Plus, I am planning to make them swappable as to be able to switch between the original roadster seats for shows/cars & coffee and a head-rest version for autocross and highway driving. However those you have would give a much nicer “racer’s” feel I believe.

Doug

[TXeverydayDad]

As I round third base on the dash I wanted to add a handle and re enforce the dash. The number one thing you will end up telling everyone that gets in the passenger seat for the first time is not to use the windshield to support themselves. It is not load bearing. I like having a grab rail. It gives people something to use to sit and pull themselves up.

Where did you get that grab rail? Looks really good.

[Blitzboy54]

Where did you get that grab rail? Looks really good.

Thanks man, I appreciate that. It’s a pretty standard marine grab rail. It was polished steel. I powder coated it in Prismatic Powder stone black. I picked it primarily because it fit in the space available

https://a.co/d/4OBExMi

[danmas]

I just ordered the same grab bar.

[danmas]

Are you able to share your center console design? It looks straight forward but would be nice to follow in your footsteps.

Thanks!

Dan

[Blitzboy54]

Are you able to share your center console design? It looks straight forward but would be nice to follow in your footsteps.

Thanks!

Dan

Sure, I didn't make a template or anything but I can take some detailed pictures and measurements if you want.

[jengum]

A few upgrade parts arrived.

First is the Ford gas tank filler seal. For those that don't know the grommet that comes with the kit that seals the filler neck to the gas tank is not OEM. FFR uses a Dorman part. There is a history of those leaking. I ordered the Ford part at my local dealer and I had it in a day. It was $32. Cheap insurance. Ford PN FZZZ9072DA



Next is the brakes. Wilwood uses what they call BP-10 as their standard brake pad. Regardless if you order from them or FFR this is what will come with them unless you tell them otherwise. I found them to be ok, but just ok. Some may disagree but I want my brakes to stop as aggressively and radically as my car accelerates. I did a lot of motorcycle track days in my 20's and 30's. My best times were all on lightweight bikes with huge brakes vs heavy fire breathers. I upgraded my fronts to BP-20's on my first build in the front. These are the most aggressive "street pad" Wilwood offers (everything else is a race pad). It made a significant difference. This build I want freakish stopping power so I am putting BP-20's on all four corners. They are not cheap but worth it IMO



The real exciting news is I got my panels back from powder coat. They cam out really nice. It's a metallic charcoal. I am going to use black rivets and I think it creates a cool look. The best part is I now have my color scheme worked out and it is all represented in my engine bay. Interesting twist is I was originally going to PC all the engine panels black again. I dropped them off with that as my order. The next morning I changed my mind to the charcoal. I already did the driver footbox. I plan to keep it black for now. I have some design ideas that I think will look really cool, but there is a scenario where I pull it back off and re do it.





Now that my F panels are in I was able to finish the front suspension. This should have been completely drama free but I discovered one of the downsides of having done this before is getting a little too comfortable. I make sure to keep the manual open and reference it. I got to the spindles and stopped reading at "DSS is the drivers side spindle". The rest of that sentence was for the hotrod. The roadster goes the other way. So I installed it on the drivers side before realizing it wasn't right. So I had to take it back out and fix it. I had to use a bearing puller to get it to pop off the lower control arm. Those are tapered. DOH

Any rate they are in and look good.

Do you have a powder coat color description or RAL number for the metallic charcoal? Where did you source the black rivets...McMaster Carr?

[Blitzboy54]

Do you have a powder coat color description or RAL number for the metallic charcoal? Where did you source the black rivets...McMaster Carr?

I do not. The work was done by Powdertech in Duanesburg. They would know. The rivets I got on Amazon although MC has them too.


Speaking of powder coat......


I figured if I was going to PC the dash supports I mind as well do the trunk hinges too.

[Blitzboy54]

Complete and test dash wiring


I removed the dash and completed the connections for the heater and wipers as well as put in wire looms for the external components. I attached the heater vents and ran the duct for the passenger and half the driver.



I made one electrical change. I moved the parking brake off the bus bar in the cockpit and ran it from the main power bus directly off the battery.

Re attached the support and mounted the dash (hopefully for good).





I purchased a bigger 12v power supply and connected to the battery lugs. I disconnected the computer for the coyote, I don't need that powering up yet. I was able to calibrate the fuel gauge to the sender, test all my dash lights, hazards, directionals and high beams. I wired in my courtesy lights. I plan to put a light in the glove box and tie that to the courtesy circuit. The only problem with the power supply is I was hoping it was strong enough to test the wipers and heater fan (not big enough). Going to borrow Scott's later this week.





Last thing I got done today


I was able to test parking brake light. Worked as expected.





I will hook up the head unit and test the cameras while I wait for Franks turn signal to arrive later this week and finish up the dash.

[PNWTim]

It's the little milestones that count, like the PB light! I love that. I built my last car without testing a single electrical circuit and I was a nervous wreck on 1st start. Everything worked but I was waaaaay out of my wheelhouse on that one.

I have a small 12 volt power supply but I probably need to check it's amperage to see what it can really power.

[Blitzboy54]

I also found some time to mock up my dash/rear cams and test as well. It's easy to slide the unit in because I measured the frame with enough room to clear the dash itself when fully upholstered. You can also see the fit and finish with the CF wrap.



I mounted the rear and front camera roughly using of all things blue tape. Worked for what it was. I also used a separate power supply to test the backup trigger that will wire into the reverse lights.



Worked like it should




Front camera works too. It's a pretty basic setup. The camera and or the head unit will accept an SD card that continuously writes to it, then over writes when full. I should be able to keep a couple days worth of driving at a time. The idea here is I have (will have) insurance. If someone makes a mistake and takes the front end of my car apart or rear ends me there isn't any shop that will fix it. I want to document the accident and just get cashed out. The backup is cam is just a bonus, the car hips are wide and backing into the garage would be easier with a camera but was not the initial reason I went this route



Last I made the bluetooth connection with my phone. I tested it with maps to navigate to this totally random place that I have never been to to see how long it would take to get there.

[PNWTim]

I really like the multi-functionality of the head unit. I will be doing something similar with cameras but integrated into a rearview mirror which will be overhead.

And there is nothing wrong with blue tape for the win.

[Blitzboy54]

I really like the multi-functionality of the head unit. I will be doing something similar with cameras but integrated into a rearview mirror which will be overhead.

And there is nothing wrong with blue tape for the win.

That's awesome. Scott has one of those in his coupe. I thought about it but I don't have anywhere to cleanly run the wire unless I mount it to the dash. I want my rear view up high this time.

I look forward to seeing how you do it.

[Fman]

Jesse, have you tested that screen in daylight? I cant even read my 8" Fire tablet in full daylight hours with my Pro Flo 4 EFI app. The glare from the sun is terrible. Works fine during early morning, late evening and night driving.

[Blitzboy54]

Jesse, have you tested that screen in daylight? I cant even read my 8" Fire tablet in full daylight hours with my Pro Flo 4 EFI app. The glare from the sun is terrible. Works fine during early morning, late evening and night driving.

Yeah, thanks Travis. I did test it out in the sun. It works pretty good, at least better than my phone. I’m going to give it a whirl as is. There are also anti glare films I can play with if need be.

[460.465USMC]

Last I made the bluetooth connection with my phone. I tested it with maps to navigate to this totally random place that I have never been to to see how long it would take to get there.

Looks great, Jesse! Many cool features in your build. You're moving at warp speed! Are you having as much fun as your first build? I know I am. Keep up the great work.

[Blitzboy54]

Looks great, Jesse! Many cool features in your build. You're moving at warp speed! Are you having as much fun as your first build? I know I am. Keep up the great work.

Thanks Chris. Always good to hear from you. Yes sir, I’m having a blast. I think the pace of the build reflects that. I really like being in the garage.

Looking forward to seeing some of your updates.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks Chris. Always good to hear from you. Yes sir, I’m having a blast. I think the pace of the build reflects that. I really like being in the garage.

Looking forward to seeing some of your updates.

I can totally relate. My family bought me two tee shirts during my first build. The first one says, "My garage is my happy place". The second says, "I can't. I have plans in the garage". Not that I would ever say that.

I bet you'll be at First Start before long. Will be exciting!

[Blitzboy54]

Turn Signal Pt 1

One of the more exciting developments around here is the turn signal I ordered from Frank arrived this week. It's a real well thought out unit. Frank sent me the dimensions so I was able to mock it up on my dash ahead of time. It arrived in basically 4 pieces. The base plate that marries the hub to the dash, the hub (contains the stalk), a backing plate that secures the hub and the boss.





The turn signal comes ready to wire the directionals and horn. If you want to use the side button for the high beams you have to install a relay. I hadn't planned for a relay so I had to find a home. I put it behind the dash under the dash frame so I can get to it if I ever need to replace it. I also installed the switch for the parking brake that came out pretty sharp.



I completed the rest of the wiring and connected the heat duct.





While I was working I also buttoned up a couple other items. First is I added lights to the glove box. These run off the cockpit courtesy circuit.



I also caved and installed a bias adjuster. Turns out Speedway motors makes their own. I got it for $35 and to my surprise the knob is a billet aluminum vs plastic. the whole setup is a Wilwood clone. I will connect the cable once I get the Tilton 90 degree.




I connected the tail lights and tested as well. These are good to go.

[Blitzboy54]

Turn Signal Pt 2

I decided to carry the theme and powder coat the boss. I was going to powder coat the mounting plate as well but it shipped already black.



I mounted everything up per the instructions and it looks great. I am not completely sold on the FFR steering wheel. I have no plans to change it right now but will possibly go with something more modern. This will do for now though.







I also ordered Franks drop trunk and trunk cover plate. I was pleasantly surprised to find some extra swag in with my order. Really classy touch IMO.




Last but not least here is everything fully tested.

[jengum]

Looks great Jesse!

Are you planning defroster ducts for the 2nd build or is there a workaround for NYS registration and inspection?

Tilton 90deg elbow...did you change out the MC's for Tiltons? I've been reading about the recent failures.

Turn signal hub...did you substitute the horn function for high beam operation or is there a separate stalk button? Is it latching or momentary? I watched Frank's video for adding the high beam relay but is the other wiring a direct connection to the RF harness?

[Blitzboy54]

Looks great Jesse!

Are you planning defroster ducts for the 2nd build or is there a workaround for NYS registration and inspection?

Tilton 90deg elbow...did you change out the MC's for Tiltons? I've been reading about the recent failures.

Turn signal hub...did you substitute the horn function for high beam operation or is there a separate stalk button? Is it latching or momentary? I watched Frank's video for adding the high beam relay but is the other wiring a direct connection to the RF harness?

Ducts on a roadster are useless if you don't have a top. I will temporarily put defroster grills on the body when I register. Then ditch them.

The elbow has nothing to do with the MC, just happed to both be made by Tilton. The 90 is the only way to get the cable to fit and function in the space available the way I want to do it.

Franks hub uses the stalk for the horn. Pull it and it becomes a momentary switch. Everything else just wires to the RF harness.

[Blitzboy54]

Merry Christmas to me!!!

My friend Scott stopped by last weekend to say hi and see the build in person. He has a beautiful Red and White coupe that unfortunately had a valve failure that resulted in the engine getting pulled and sent back to Mike Forte for repair. We were chatting about where I was in the build and I mentioned my power supply wasn't big enough to test the wipers and heater fan. He reminded me he had a big boy power supply and a "spare" battery I was welcome to borrow. I thought that was a fine idea and made the trip out to his place on Sunday.

While we were hanging out in the garage and looking over his door pocket project Scott showed me a few other surprises he had for me. First was the battery, power supply and circuit tester.

I connected it to my battery leads and ran the heater. The blower works well and moves a lot of air. I tested the wipers. I turned them on and off a couple times then I heard a pop. Ru Roh, I had blown the 10a wiper fuse. After some trouble shooting I found I had a short in the switch. I wired up the FFR switch and the wipers work fine so I definitely had a bad part. I ordered a better switch but I am also a little torn. I kind of like the FFR switch but to put it in the dash I would have to make the hole bigger so no take backs. I will think about it for a while



I re tested all my lights and switches and noticed my dimmer didn't work. I then figured out I have half LED's and regular bulbs. So to fix this I am changing the 5 small gauges to LED bulbs and putting and LED dimmer in line. I didn't drive my last car a lot at night but when I did you get a lot of glare from the dash in the windshield. I needed to turn the lights way down.

Next was this little beauty! Scott tried to install it on the coupe and couldn't make it work so he very generously gave to me. This was a gift (not a loan) and honestly a really nice thing to do. Made my day



I was also talking about where I was in the build and how I would like to put the engine in but I can't until I get the car on the ground. I don't have tires and won't until spring so I will just work on other stuff until then. Scott said he had an extra set of wheels for his challenger with his summer tires on them and he thinks they are the same bolt pattern. Well low and behold they are 18" and are 5x114.3 we test fit one on his coupe and BANG!! We are in business. With this little touch of Mopar magic I can put her on the ground and drop the engine and trans probably next month. LFG!!!!!! Looks kind of awesome to boot.




Other things I was able to to do was get my headlights tested.



and turn signals



On Saturday I was able to get a start on Franks drop trunk. It's a nice piece that's a little bigger than the one I had put in my last car.



This is a great example of what this community continues to be. I genuinely appreciate Scott being a part of my build. Thanks man!


"Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night"

[gbranham]

Yeah, buddy! Great feeling getting those lights and gauges lit, eh? I just did this same thing for the first time Saturday.

Greg

[Blitzboy54]

It's cold

With the holidays and the weather it has not been ideal garage time. It's been chilly this week



But despite the head winds I still have made some progress. First was I finished the bias adjuster. Tucked everything in to the foot box. There does not seem to be any interference. I did end up putting some lithium grease on the rotating assy of this since it was metal bearing against a metal plate. Runs real smooth.






Electrically I finished with the dash for the most part. I replaced the gauges with incandescent bulbs with LED and installed a dimmer in line that I purchased from Autometer. I know some folks think it's not necessary but I found it to be useful on my last car and wanted to the ability to do it on this one.



Next I cried uncle on my wiper switch. Instead of purchasing a rotating switch from Ron Francis I decided to color the bezel black and run with the FFR toggle. I kind of like how it breaks up the dash. I can always change it out later if I change my mind.



I started on my rear aluminum. I am going to stop at the sides for now and start prepping the engine for drop in. I think I want to be able to access the tank, pump and fuel lines until first start just in case there are any issues.



I mounted the gas tank vent canister. I rather shamelessly stole this from Chris (cv2065). Credit where credit is due.