Yea, sorry, was running out the door when posting and had a 3 & 5yr old pulling on my leg. The cooling fan is 100% controlled by the Coyote PCM. I was making reference to the FFR Coyote Fitment Roadster version 'O' instructions that I have where they say on page 77 that there are two ways to wire it. The first way says to run it back to the fuse box and basically setup a double fuse using both Coyote PCM and the RF fuse, which doesn't make a whole lot of since. On top of that their instructions are a little out dated in that what they want you to connect to has changed and doesn't exist. The only other orange wire under the dash is Aux 3 from the Coyote PCM. I'm going to tie directly into the blue RF cooling line running forward and use it basically as a jumper/extension from the orange Coyote line to the fans. The only reason I'm doing it that way is I had already pulled it back through and re-wrapped the main PCM wiring before I realized what exactly they were trying to do. It would have been very helpful had they provided the purpose of each step, not just take orange and connect it to blue.

Yes, pictures are missing a lot for the power lines, including the short jumper from the PDB to the fuse bar. I was just going to run the power from the rear battery to the starter, then starter to the 250am fuse bar (with the small pig tail), then via the short jumper to the PDB. It would have been much easier, but I wasn't sure if there was some reason why ford wanted direct power from the battery to the PDB. To be save I basically ran a double line from the battery positive in the rear to the engine bay, then split one to the fuse bar and one to the starter. While doing this I took the PDB ground out (small pig tail) and sent it to the passenger side motor mount where I have a ground already (shorter run, less wires to the trunk). In addition I'm planning on getting always hot power to the RF fuse box via the 250amp fuse bar instead of routing it all they way do the starter. Should be a shorter/cleaner run.

Right now the wiring is just a big dirty mess sitting in the car and I pulled all the power wires out while I drop the motor/trans in. My main goal was to figure out all the engine bay runs and where I need zip tie clips before the motor went in. I've wired 6 muscle cars before that I've rotisserie built and have always done it with the motor/trans in place. It's just a personal preference for me since that's what I'm use to. All of them however were simpler engines so this will take a few more cubic hours to get sorted out and finished.