King's MK4 Coyote Build

[2bking]

Billet Badges finally came through after several polishing mistakes and machining errors (they did verify the problems with pictures they sent). I received the badges about May 20. My attention has been focused on the TKO 600 transmission vibration that was apparent on the first go cart drive. I have verified the bell housing is centered and drive shaft is balanced. The vibration goes away when the clutch disengages so the problem seems to point to the front of the transmission. If you saw my thread on the TKO 600 problem, I was convinced the problem was related to the front bearing but after replacing the bearing and re-shimming, the problem got worse. I removed the tranny one more time. I measured the tail shaft and input shaft runout before disassembly. The tail shaft was about perfect but the input shaft had .010 TIR runout at the pilot bearing surface. I removed the input shaft and measured it on centers and found a .002 TIR runout almost mid center of the length of the shaft. I ordered a new shaft but what I got was an almost new one. It had evidence of having been meshed with gears and a trace of wear at the front seal surface. I installed it and measured the runout at the pilot bearing surface. It had .004-.006 TIR runout. I put the transmission back in and drove it. The vibration is now acceptable but not gone. I'm thinking the shaft I received was removed from a transmission for the same problem I'm trying to solve. I should have measured it on centers too. I'm going to do some more thinking about options that may involve another transmission.

But back to the completion of the car. I've completed all the items on the build list so I can say it is done. Here are some pictures of the badges and car. Perhaps I can find some places to take the graduation pictures and post them in another thread.
2016-06-08 15.16.51c.jpg 2016-05-22 16.54.26cd.jpg

[Paul Mischenko]

Amazing build thread King, car is looking sweet. Many thanks for all the details, very cool mods.

[Jester]

King - thanks for the great post - Very nice work and great result! I may have to get a set of those badges.

Re the shimmy - I noticed on my build (Coyote with tko600) there was a slight shimmy at speed and I made a slight adjustment to the pinion angle and the shimmy went away (I believe I slightly reduced the pinion angle). I have the Moser 3 link rear (less complicated than the IRS). Please disregard if issues is solved

Keep us posted with this issue (my next build will be an IRS FFR)

[2bking]

King - thanks for the great post - Very nice work and great result! I may have to get a set of those badges.

Re the shimmy - I noticed on my build (Coyote with tko600) there was a slight shimmy at speed and I made a slight adjustment to the pinion angle and the shimmy went away (I believe I slightly reduced the pinion angle). I have the Moser 3 link rear (less complicated than the IRS). Please disregard if issues is solved

Keep us posted with this issue (my next build will be an IRS FFR)

I had thought the vibration felt in 3rd and 4th gear at the shifter handle was fixed when I replaced the drive shaft but it slowly came back. It's more pronounced during acceleration and deacceleration but is there all the time. I'm fairly certain it is originating in the transmission due to all the other things I have replaced and/or checked which includes clutch and drive shaft investigations. It is worse when the transmission is hot which seems to indicate the cool thicker fluid is dampening the vibration. I don't think it is something that will leave me on the side of the road someday so am going to let it go for a few thousand more miles. I will then open up the tranny and hopefully there will be some tell-tell wear marks to indicate the source.

Other than the vibration, I have had no other problems. The car is fun to drive and has plenty of power in the first couple of gears. Second gear ends at 80 mph so more power isn't much usable on the street. It's easy to service with the tilt front and I'm glad I did the mod every time I open the hood.

[carlewms]

King,

As usual looking really great and thanks for the detail on the Billet Badges ... I am going to order ones that have 347 on them ...

[Jester]

Thanks for the updated King.

Keep us posted re the vibration. Hopefully something simple.

Good luck

[2bking]

I've been enjoying the ride and have over 4k miles now. Around the Dallas area are many freeways and toll roads that I travel going to destinations around the area and I find trying to maintain a constant speed with a sensitive throttle is difficult. I find I have to constantly keep an eye on the speedometer and sometimes hinder the other traffic when my speed drops a little. I've wanted to add Cruise Control and read different threads related to the installation. From the threads I learned there was a Hot Rod kit available for the drive by wire controls like the Coyote has and checked out the units available. There were two options for locating the controls, either turn signal stalk or wireless on the steering wheel. I wanted the controls on the steering wheel where they were accessible without removing the hand from the wheel and but the wireless steering wheel control didn't fit our steering wheels.

I had modeled the steering components in ProE to make the horn honk with the hub on the center of the wheel so I had a quick start for designing the steering wheel control. I needed to get about five wires through to the wheel and there are two basic ways to do that: either a clock spring type device that allows a limited amount of steering shaft rotation or a slip ring device that allows unlimited amount of rotation. I couldn't find room for a clock spring device but could fit a slip ring inside the Russ Thomson VW Steering head. This was a research and development effort where I had no clue if such an endeavor would work mechanically or electrically but it seemed to have some chance of success so I ordered the 250-1882 kit from the Cruise Control Store. My plan was to strip the unknown guts from the stalk control that comes with the kit and repackage the switches in a housing that would fit on the steering wheel and run the wires through the slip rings to the control module.

The kit and stalk control that came with the kit looked like this:
250_1882.jpg 2503742EC.jpg

When I disassembled the stalk, I found three PWBs wired together and buttons that used resistive pads to activate the modes of On/Off, Set, and Resume and six wires that needed to get through the steering shaft. I designed a housing that would accept the guts and fit on one of the spokes of the steering wheel.
2017-08-09 17.14.04.jpg

This housing and the guts inside looks like this:
2017-08-16 16.21.30d.jpg

The design of the slip ring looks like this in a section view of the steering assembly and a cut away view of the slip ring only:
mk42010steeringa.jpg mk42010steeringb.jpg

I found these small brushes to use for contacts to the slip rings.
brushes.jpg

I designed a plastic block to mount the brushes and machined the bottom of the Russ Thomson Turn Signal housing to attach it. This picture was taken before the wires were attached to the screws holding the brushes:
2017-08-16 16.22.16d.jpg

Two of the six wires had the identical +12V source so I combined those two in the control housing I made and reduced the number of wires to five, thus a five channel slip ring. I drilled the slanted hole through the steering shaft as seen in one of the pictures above and drilled the hole in the steering hub for the exit of the wires to the controller. I had some doubts about the system working because of the resistance in the slip rings of 10-15 ohms which seemed high for carbon brushes but that turn out to not be a problem.

I tried to use the output from the Speed Dial as the VSS input to the Cruise Module so I didn't have to install the magnets on the drive shaft but although it did accept the signal, the operation was erratic and the speed it maintained was -/+3 mph of the set speed. The kit comes with a divide by 3 module for reducing the VSS signal from the magnets and attaching it to the Speed Dial output might have fixed the problem but I was hesitant fearing it might destroy the Speed Dial when the grounds were combined so I installed the magnets. The operation of the Cruise Control became very similar to the DD. I have used it on several occasions in the last few days and am very happy with its manners. Here's one last picture of the control module attached to the steering wheel.
2017-09-01 16.48.25d.jpg

[carlewms]

King,

Great Idea and, of course the wonderful execution.

[WIS89]

King-

Super job as always! I think cruise control is critical for my car, and I wondered how difficult it was going to be to execute. Thank you for sharing your application!

I may have to pester you when I get to that point in my build.

I appreciate you taking the time to share your experience!

Regards,

Steve

[sbak]

Excellent design and workmanship!

[edwardb]

Very nice work. I've had my eye on that cruise control setup after it was mentioned in another thread. Good to hear it works as advertised with the Coyote DBW.

[Dave Howard]

King is one of the early Coyote installers who broke a lot of ground for others to follow. There were no Coyote buildthreads to follow in 2012-13. A TRUE inovator and custom builder.

Good job brother

[wareaglescott]

Nice work King! Very cool

[2bking]

Carl, Steve, sbak, Paul, Dave and Scott, thank you for the accolades you bestow on me. Like GO Dad Go said about going off the reservation with his LS engine, like wise I did too with my flip front and dash but I am thankful to myself that I did put in the extra time. It's not close to a period correct Cobra but I didn't want one. Mine is easy to drive with some nice creature comforts. The flip front is a joy anytime there is something needed under the hood or just a front wheel alignment check. The speedo and tach are easy to observe, the wipers are close to the hand on the wheel, the console makes a good arm rest, and the parking brake is in easy reach for holding the car on a hill at stop lights. Oh, the AC in an open car has enough cool air flowing about to keep the sweat off me and my passenger in our Texas heat, I really like that. The cruise control is also very nice but the off/on light is a little too dim during the day. Anyway, thanks again.

[Mark Eaton]

There are not many items left on my list of things to complete but fixing things like trim that won't stay on, cleaning up some wiring, and installing rearview mirrors. Most are little things that don't warrant pictures but the rearview mirrors are a deviation from what is supplied in the kit. I didn't want to install the fender mirror because it needed holes drilled in the body and the mirror surface is a little small. I didn't want a $200 mirror either so I looked for something less expensive. I found these motorcycle ones for less than $20 a pair and thought I might make them work.
Attachment 48575

I modified the first set I bought only to find I cut the shafts too short even though I measured twice so I ordered another set so I have $40 now invested.
Attachment 48576

I actually had to cut the end of the shaft at 15* to get them to look right and get enough adjustment out of the mirror without interfering with the wind wings. I drill and tapped a #10-32 UNF hole in the end for mounting it to the windshield side bar.
Attachment 48577

I marked the hole location on the side bar and drill the mounting hole. The DS is shown but the PS is similar.
Attachment 48578 Attachment 48579 Attachment 48580 Attachment 48581 Attachment 48582

I also am not planning on using the dash mount rearview mirror because of the same reasons as the fender mount mirror. I purchased a Ford Rearview auto dimming mirror with compass, outside temperature, and HomeLink. I'll post some pictures of that installation later.

King,

I really like how you did these mirrors. I'm am going to try this on my build, thanks!

Mark

[BTHWarrior]

Do you still have the template or at least a paper one that I can use for my grommets? I am located in Lewisville so not to far from you. I am not quite there yet (cutting the holes) but I am always looking for better ways to do something before I get to that step.

Roy