Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: 5,000 Mile Report

[edwardb]

Lots going on. But the main thing is last night I finally finished the fuel and brake lines. I’ll go through that in some detail and then a few other happenings. I started using rigid stainless tubing for fuel and brake lines on my second build. I really like the final result and find the process interesting and challenging. Is it necessary or required? No. But once done should be bulletproof and last the life of the car. Plus I think it looks cool. So the Coupe gets the same treatment. Even though this is my third time, I’m far from an expert. There’s enough time between each that it takes a little practice to get back into the swing of it. I wouldn’t say using SS is hard, but it’s definitely a little tedious and takes the right material, tools and process.

The way I do it takes an especially long time (and some would say is totally redundant…) because I don’t trust myself to bend the SS tubing until I’ve made patterns that are confirmed to fit. It’s not forgiving. Once you make a bend, it’s pretty hard to go back. So I use the supplied steel brake lines to make patterns for the SS brake lines. Then I use a piece of 3/8-inch soft copper tubing from Home Depot to make patterns for the 3/8-inch SS supply and return fuel lines. Both materials allow multiple do-overs and fine tuning. When good, duplicate in SS and install. Works well and every piece went in OK. But it does take some time.

The other challenge with SS tubing is doing the usual double flares. I buy my SS tubing from InLine Tube, a well known on-line supplier of brake and fuel tubing, parts, etc. They’re local for me, so I’m able to pick it up at their place in straight pieces. Nice. No coils to straighten. The material is the proper annealed SS. But you still have to be very careful and have an exact process to make the flares. I used the Eastwood Professional flare tool, which is awesome. It makes flares in other materials like butter. But for SS, if everything isn’t just right the flare can crack. When it does, 99% of the time on the second step, and 99% of the time my own fault because I pulled too hard. You have to use a light touch on the second step and they come out perfect every time. I check them under low magnification just to be sure. I practiced a lot with scrap material and developed a pretty predicable process. Most of the time…

The brake lines are all the usual routings with SS fittings and double flares at each connection. For the fuel lines, I’m using 3/8-inch SS for both supply and return. Did the same after a lot of research on the 20th Anniversary Roadster Coyote build, and it works well. Rather than trying to flair the 3/8-inch tubing and come up with the right adapters for -6AN flex at each end, I use a very cool compression fitting. There are a couple brands. The one I use is a Ham-Let SS 316 Let-Lok Compression Fitting, Adapter, 3/8" Tube OD x 37 Degree Flare. Breeze has them and that’s where I normally get them. I’ve also found them on eBay and Amazon on occasion. I believe Forte also sells them. These are a one-time installation on the end of the tubing and are bullet proof. As I recall they’re rated for something over 1,000 PSI. So I think they’ll hold up to the fuel line pressure. Once installed, a standard -6AN fitting goes right on. Perfect.

Lots of discussion on the forum lately about regulators with the Coyote setup, and specifically using a fixed regulator by the tank versus the usual Aeromotive adjustable regulator in the engine compartment. Definitely some simplicity and cost advantage for the fixed regulator approach. The regulator is cheaper and only a single line is required to the engine compartment. For this build I chose to (again) duplicate what I did with #8674 with the adjustable regulator in the engine compartment and two lines. Note also for the Coupe it’s necessary to run the fuel and brake lines through the transmission tunnel. With the frame design, it’s not possible to run them outside the tunnel like with the Roadster. If you did, the lines would be the lowest point on the bottom where they had to get by chassis rails. Not acceptable obviously. I installed all three lines in the top DS corner of the tunnel, staying as far away from moving parts (e.g. the driveshaft) as physically possible.

With that said, here are a bunch of pictures. First brake lines, then fuel. For the pedal box, I chose to replace the kit supplied right angle fittings out of the Wilwood MC’s with Wilwood 220-0628 straight fittings. This made the tubing bends a little more to my liking, plus eliminates the issue (for me anyway…) of getting the position of the angled fittings correct without stripping something out. Ask me how I know about that. First picture is the front and rear brake line connections at the pedal box. The front circuit comes out the top corner of the footbox. The rear circuit follows the path shown in the manual over to the corner of the footbox, down a diagonal rail, and then through the transmission tunnel to the back.



For the front, along the top rail of the chassis and turned down to the DS wheel. Not visible in the picture, but where it exits the footbox, I put a 1-inch long double layer of dual wall shrink sleeving. Did the same thing for the rear line where it exits the footbox. Will act like a grommet next to the aluminum panel.



Just like Mike Everson did on his build (thanks Mike!) I found the routing for the front lines at the wheels worked best on the back of the frame rails in that area. So cut semi-circles in the aluminum panels and mounted them as shown here. The DS has the tee connection to go to the PS. I ran the crossover on the top of the frame rail across.



Then back up on the other side. For these visible mounting clamps, I used the same ALL18320 Allstar Performance clamps with 10-32 screws and tapped holes as on previous builds. I just think they look better. All the rest (through the tunnel, in the back, etc.) are normal cushioned clamps.



This is the outside of the PS showing the attachment and flex line to the brake caliper. Same on both sides. For all the attachments to the frame like this plus the cushioned clamps I used 3/16-inch steel Q-rivets. From McMaster-Carr (where else?) but are available elsewhere. They’re many time stronger than the usual aluminum pop rivet and set really nice. They are a little tough to pull by hand though. I used my pneumatic riveter wherever possible.



For the rear circuit, as already mentioned, leaves the MC and goes down the diagonal tube where it exits the footbox. This isn’t the best picture, but this is the exact routing FF shows in the manual and their pictures are better than this. Note also this is the same exit point I'm planning for the rear harness and hydraulic line to the clutch.



From there, it goes down the top corner of the tunnel, and up to a tee between the rear wheels.