Carl's Mk 4 Roadster Build

[DaleG]

Dale,

I used to order stuff from them when I had my MG ... Didn't even think of them this time.

Carl

I used them a lot when I had a Triumph. If you learn how to navigate through it all, you can find most of the switches and knobs from the "AC" era.

[carlewms]

After the new upgraded clamps arrived from Aircraft Spruce I started the process of cleaning up the wiring throughout the car.

Louis (my aircraft mechanic brother) told me about the wiring clamps from Spruce Aircraft. The photo below shows the differences (the standard ones are on the left and the upgrades are on the right):





The differences are a bit subtle...but important to me. The most important was the smaller diameter attachment hole which made using the proper attaching hardware easier. The second was the wedge that fully surrounds the wiring harness when installed. This also allowed me to use stainless steel sheet metal screws to attach to the frame instead of rivets; allowing access to the wiring in case of a future problem or to add a circuit. Aircraft Spruce Part # MS21919- WDG"x" is a different number depending on size.

Here are some photos of the installation on the frame:

Supporting the wiring for the trunk light, license plate light and the pin switch for the trunk light:



Harness for the brake and parking lights:





I also used self vulcanizing tape to protect the branch junctions on the harness where there is no braid installed. This tape, which took a little getting used to install, seals up the wiring nicely also giving the looms a more old school look. Unlike standard electrical tape it only sticks to itself so it can be removed without making a mess of the wiring beneath it.

After running out of the right size clamps I place another order which will arrive on Friday so I can wrap it all up over the weekend.

[carlewms]

After a few weeks it was good to get back in the garage...although the jet lag sure impacted the amount of work accomplished.

Although I had great intentions to maximize time in the garage today...I guess the jet lag is impacting me more.

I had ordered the modified mounting brackets that decrease the gap between the caliper and rotor ... Increasing the clearance between the inner wheel and the caliper top. This was a free fix provided by Wilwood in response to builder feedback.

After studying my installation I realized that 3 shims were originally which, if removed, would do what I wanted without replacing the brackets. I stored the new brackets and removed the shims on each of the rear end spindles. After mounting the tire on one side there is plenty of clearance between the inside of the rim and caliper.

With the shims installed:



With the shims removed it increased the gap between the rim and the caliper by 1/8th of inch. The mod would have increased it a little more.



The wheel installed spins freely:



Carl

PS ... Love those big fat tires!

[carlewms]

After doing Internet search on how to crimp and check the resistance of the ignition or spark plug wires. Based on the info on the web and from Taylor, my wires should measure out to less than 350 ohms/inch... Which doesn't sound too good compared to the claimed 50 ohms per inch for MSD.

I had purchased a set of Taylor grey wires with black boots. The crimper was a standard one from the local auto parts store; although non ratcheting it worked out just fine. Here is everything I used to make the customized wires:

The process for measuring the resistance was pretty straight forward. I did have to remove a two of the boots to verify I had good connections on the new connectors.

After fabricating the custom lengths, the average resistance is about 320 ohms/inch.

[carlewms]

The FFR kit does not normally come with an oil temperature gauge but since I modified my dash to the SC, style I felt the need to install the temperature gauge in addition to the pressure gauge.

The sensor from Speedhut is a 1/8 in MNPT fitting and the tank (which came with a spare female NPT welded in just aft of the dipstick) required a 1/2 in MNPT fitting.



The reducer, from Ace Hardware, is a 1/2 in MNPT and 1/8 in FNPT. The sensor and wiring come from the Speed Hut instruments from the FFR kit. I used one layer of Teflon pipe tape on the reducer and checked the entire sensor to make sure it was grounded properly.



Carl

[carlewms]

I am still using the amber lights for the front turn signals and parking lights but converted them to LED ... well converting is a real stretch. I just had to remove the incandescent bulbs and insert the LED lights from SuperBrightLEDs.com.

Just to show the difference between the incandescent and LED bulbs here are a few photos:

The first photo shows the LED on the left and the incandescent on the right. This is using the higher power setting (which I have set up to be my turn signals):



The second photo shows the same arrangement but this time at the 50% power setting which is what I will use for the parking light function of the light:



The LED is clearly very much brighter than the incandescent version (hopefully not too bright)

The last photo shows the wiring connections to the one weather pack for each set of lights (per side). I installed a second ground for the headlights.

Carl

[carlewms]

What did I forget? Checking to make sure that I drilled the right size hole for the pin switches 9#* (thank goodness for Wellwood)

One of you guys ... I cannot remember who ... suggested that I could add switches to have the courtesy lights come on when someone opened the door. This weekend I attempted to execute the brilliant freakin idea.

First I got the following door jamb switch which is self grounding and self tapping (although because of my error at the head of this post, that feature was not used much).



For those not familiar with the switch it is normally open in the compressed position and then completes the circuit when the door opens.

I made an aluminum bracket to mount to the upper door hinge to serve as an extension to open and close the switch. It will be painted black to match the hinge before final installation.



I also need to buy some 3/32 th lock nuts for final attachment to the hinge.

The switch goes in a small hole drilled in the crossmember below the dash. The wire is routed out to the end of the crossmember to the light.



Here is the final installation mockup prior to painting:



Carl

[carlewms]

As those with the FFR Mk 4 Roadster know the space between the license plate light and the trunk handle is not wide enough to install a standard sized license plate without it covering up the trunk handle. As I understand it this occurred when they cured the infamous "perky butt" problem found in the earlier versions of their roadster. Additionally in my effort to make all lights on the car LED vice incandescent I wanted to convert the light to take LEDs.

Increasing the space for the license plate is pretty well documented on the FFR sites. Jeff Kleiner, who I would call a master builder, came up with a modification to the FFR supplied light which I liked the best because externally the fixture remains externally or visually the same as the original.

For those considering this modification ... the easiest path is simply to modify the fixture per the Kleiner method and substitute LED lights for the incandescent lights. Of course this is not what I did. (*P

After researching the SuperBrightLEDs.com site I found some directional LEDs specifically designed for illuminating the license plate.

(Courtesy of the SuperBrightLEDs.com website)

However these were designed to replace the license plate retaining bolts.

(Courtesy of the SuperBrightLEDs.com website)

The problem with this approach, at least for this Olde Goat Herder, was that it took away from the original look. BTW, the above example uses the cool white version ... I plan to use the warm version which looks more like an incandescent light on the plate.

So to make the modification I essentially striped the interior of the fixture and fabricated a few parts to reconstruct my version.

The first was a new "bridge" to attach the metal cover and plastic lens to the mounting plate:



The retaining nut is from the FFR kit, the nut and bolt are 6--32 x 1/2 in SS Pan Phillips Machine. I used some blue Locktite when attaching the bolt to the "bridge".

To seal off the unused holes in the mounting plate, I just took some aluminum duct tape and put it on the back of the plate.



Here is a photo showing the mounting of the bridge (using the LEDs to retain the "bridge").



While I need to do the final adjustment when I get a plate, the angle of the installed LED's maximizes the fan of light on to the plate. The LED is SuperBrightLEDs.com Part Number MAL-B-WW2 ($4.95) and is the warm white in a black holder and has 120 degree beam angle.

After adding a plate to support the "raised" mounting of the plate, here is what the completed fixture looks like.



Carl

[DaleG]

Love your posts, as always.

[MPTech]

I like your door jamb switch setup Carl. Very clean installation. I've been thinking about this one for a while and really like your design.

Thanks for sharing!

[2bking]

I have the same jam switches and didn't have a plan for attaching them. I believe I'll use your approach. I also have the Infinity Box wiring which uses grounding to activate the circuits. It is made to order for these switches. Thanks Carl.

[dallas_]

Looking really good Carl.

I always liked a clean spark plug wire installation. Nice work on that.

[Carlos C]

Carl:

This is kind of a late question, but I've been just catching up with your build thread. Can you please tell me where you got your Baileigh shear/roller/brake combo, how much did it cost you, and how happy are you with it? I've been looking at the ones from Harbor Freight and Eastwood, but yours seems to be of good quality. I need one for the planned mods on my Coupe. Thanks.

Carlos

[carlewms]

Carlos,

I purchased directly from Baileigh. Here is the link:

http://metal.baileighindustrial.com/...-roll-sbr-3020

Cost was $695 plus shipping.

I really pretty pleased with it overall. Some items to consider:

1. The maximum side to a box or depth when bending is about 3.5 inches so if your looking at making deeper boxes you have be a little creative. I bend the opposite ends and then fabricate the other sides with tabs to rivet to the other piece (not the best word explanation);
2. It is 30 inches but trying to cut a 30 in piece of 6061 T6 .04 inches (like comes with the kit) is pretty difficult at the end of the brake/shear. It will bend easily to the full length;
3. It is very heavy. I had to take it apart to move it and had a helper; and,
4. I installed on a heavy table with large casters to make moving easier.

Bottom Line: I like have the capability in the garage and with care you can much better straight side parts with the machine than by cutting and bending with hand tools. What helped my decision was the quotes I was getting four the mods I wanted to make exceeded the cost of the machine plus shipping.

Carl

[Carlos C]

Great! Thanks for the info, Carl.

Carlos

[carlewms]

Previous in the build I had installed the tank and then decided to do the modification lowering the trunk floor to create additional space ... and to make access for wiring the car easier.

Installing the tank on an FFR ought to be a two person job but with the aid of a few boxes, a jack and some loud words of encouragement it finally got into place. I did manage to step on the pig tail for the fuel level sensor and break the retainer ... :crazy2. I will replace as soon as I get a new one.

For those that do not know, one of the design eccentricities of the FFR makes getting the front PS tank strap bolted up a real PIA. Although I thought I had it fixed during the first install it proved to be a bridge too far on what I hope to be the final installation of the tank. I ended up substituting a longer bolt but now need to get one with a allen wrench head to get it wrapped up.

The tank had previously been painted with undercoating and I retouched the parts that got scratched and installed the vent hose and sealed the fuel return (I am using a return less fuel system). I found that some heat shrink installed over the rubber cap sealed the return inlet.



Some heat shrink installed over the rubber cap sealed the return inlet.



There is access to the top of the fuel pump housing from the trunk ... although not pictured there is a similar access plate above the fuel level sender.



Here is a photo of the fill pipe installed on the PS side of the tank.



Like some have done I will fabricate and install a charcoal filter in the vent line before final fit up.

Carl

[carlewms]

With the very shallow glove box, I really wanted additional storage accessible from the cockpit...here are the results starting with Breeze's excellent cubby modification:

I modified the mod by moving it forward in the truck leaving more room to stow the top for the car. After trimming the partition down by 1/4 inch on each side, the cubby is about 7 1/2 inches deep.



The access was also cut in the rear cockpit wall and measures 5 3/4 by 10 1/4 inches. Breeze provides a nice piece of rubber trim to go around the opening as well as for the top of the divider wall. Final trim (required for Mk 4) of the wall and installation will happen after checking the fit with the body.



Breeze even supplies two pieces of aluminum angle to support the divider along side of the trunk wall which also covers any gaps...



Here is a perspective from outside the car ...



I may put an access door on the opening ... The final install will be after put the body on to determine how much to trim off the divider panel.

Carl

[carlewms]

While I had previously mocked up all the cockpit sheet metal, I waited until I had the wiring completed prior to finalizing the installation. As usual instead of taking the easy way out and leave it as mocked up, I decided to custom fit each piece. Additionally when the Mk 4 foot box is expanded it leaves some gaps that need to be filled in prior to putting down the insulation/sound deadening material.

Since the expansion moved the front of the box beyond the 2 inch tube, the gap between the tube needed to be filled in:



Additionally a gap between the inside wall and the 4 inch tube needed to be filled in:

As fabricated:



Ready for installation:



Here is the finished foot box (except the upper and outer panels will be done after getting all the stuff done inside the footbox (like sound proofing).



The PS cockpit floor is now installed as well



Most of the gaps are now sealed up what remains with seam sealer.

Carl

[carlewms]

The location for the MSD Ignition Box was selected...inside the PS foot box on the outer panel. The notorious red brick fits pretty well up and out of the way of the passenger's feet, is not exposed to heat of the engine compartment and all its wiring connections within distance of the coil and battery.

First mounting it to the wall...

The kit comes with rubber mounts which I adapted for use on the outer panel. Since the outside of this panel is inaccessible when the body is on the car, I used a jam nut on the stud of the rubber mount on the inside of the panel and a lock nut on the outer side to "lock" the mount on the panel (as an extra measure, I used thread locker on each each rubber mount.There is enough room to accommodate the sound dampener materials.





BTW all the hardware is #10-32 SS.

Here is the brick mounted on the panel with the harness attached.





As was done in the rest of the car all the wiring is enclosed in black braided wire loom so this was added prior to installation using heat shrink and self sealing electrical tape to protect the ends.



The harness is routed up through the outer top panel of the foot box through a rubber grommet and could be removed or installed with the body in place if need be.



Here is a photo of the installed box and harness from inside the foot box.



I may add a kick panel to provide additional protection for the box after testing out the PS seating.

[Ray W.]

Great work, Carl!

[carlewms]

After doing battle with the norovirus the last few days ...

After finally feeling like I was returning to the world of the living I got my dead pedal finished for the DS foot box. As has seemed to be my current practice, I made something that could be simple into a little more complicated deal because ....

I wanted some sort of adjustability in the dead pedal.

Here are some photos:

I used some 1/8 in thick 6061 T6 Sheet Metal or Plate for the base and mounting bracket.



I softened up the bracket with with a little heat to make the bend easier. The technique I used was to cover the area where I wanted the bend with soot from the torch; then use the combination of gas and oxygen at a higher heat to clean off the soot. The part then gets "soft" enough in to bend in the vice with the assistance of a couple of whacks with a hammer.



The next photos show the range of adjustability. I used SS 1/4 x 20 rivets, washers and allen head screws to secure the bracket on the outside DS sheet metal.





This is viewing from the foot planting end ... it will be covered with non skid eventually. The rivets give it some "grip" the left row being functional holding the plate on to the base and the right row just for effect.



Here is DS foot box with the side wall temporarily installed.

[FormulaGod]

I love these build threads. You guys truly don't realize the help you give to other builders; particularly with the detailed instructions and posts.

[carlewms]

I purchased a small (1#) fire extinguisher from Finish Line ... Halotron (Halon substitute). It comes with a nice bracket and I installed it using 1/4 x 20 Rivnuts and allen head screws with lock washers.

Since I have a panel that occupies the spot under the dash, i decided to mount it on the rear cockpit wall between the seats.



It is not the ideal spot ... but the only one I could find in the cockpit (I wanted easy access).

Carl

[carlewms]

Here is the PS outside panel with the first piece of Dynamat Extreme installed in the car. The stuff cuts with a good pair of shears or an exacto type knife. After installing and pressing in with a wallpaper seam roller, the thickness of he material was only about 1/8 in.



Here is the method I used to cut the templates prior to cutting into the expensive material:

Tools: Sharpie, 24 inch Steel Rule, Shears, Exacto or Sharp Utility Knife. Craft paper ...really the packing paper from the FFR boxes and lots of room on the dining room table.

In the ideal world it helps to create the template before the panels are attached in the foot boxes where access is very limited for us OWF types guys (that is Old Wide and Fat for those wondering).

Creating the Template:

1. Using the craft paper make a template of the panel to be covered. Be sure to account for any overlaps between two panels. Instead of trying to trace all the lines I captured the corners or changes and the used the rule to create the straight lines. I found it useful to mark and cut at least one straight edge and then go back to the panel and using that edge mark and align the template for the remainder;

2. For curved areas, I marked several points along the curve and then connected them free hand with the template on a flat surface;

3. Mark the craft paper with location for the template and reference to up or down and sides;

4. Use the shears or exacto/utility knife to cut the template; and, last but not least,

5. Check your new template against the panel to make sure you got it right!



Transferring the Shape to the Dynamat Extreme: This is where it was easy to goof up...at least for me! The back of the DE has a covering on it which is easy to mark up for cutting; the front black and silver makes it harder to see your cut lines. I instinctively selected the tan back side BUT initially totally freaking forgot to reverse the template to take into account that the template was created for the front of the DE (or from the front or inside face of the panel);

1. Fit the template to maximize the use OD the DE. If using the backside be aware there is about 1/2 inch of excess backing on each side of the DE;

2. Mark the DE using the same method as creating the template above;

3. If your anal like me, I found that I could cut small holes that were too small for the shears and too big to big to punch with a screw driver with a hole saw backed by a piece of wood;

4. Using the shears cut out the DE using the inside of the lines makes from the template. For some areas or sharp curves use the exacto or utility knife; and,

5. Unless your installing them immediately, I would recommending marking them on the back like the templates.

[carlewms]

With the extreme cold, getting the engine installed got completely stalled. Between Mom Duty at the hospital and work, the progress ground to a virtual halt on the build and the goal of driving it to the TCC Spring Meet in San Marcos, TX at the end of the month.

Since I could work inside the house on wiring. I spent a lot of time going over the wiring dieting out those I will not use on the engine, removing the standard electrical tape and installing the self-sealing or cold vulcanizing electrical tape, installing braid wire loom material and finalizing the routing of the wires. All connectors will be replaced with heat shrink type from Delcity to better seal against moisture intrusion and connection failure.

The following wires were cut out or not connected on the MSD harness:

1. White Wire: This is used if using a points circuit.

One thing common to both the MSD ignition and the EZ EFI is the absolute necessity to have clean primary power directly from the battery. Both sets of instructions had this emphasized in bold in several spots in the installation instructions.

Here is a photo of the completed harness:



Connector to the MSD box ... added braided wire loom, heat shrink and tag:



Distributor Wiring Connector ... the connector connects the Violet and Green wires through supplied harness (PN 8860):



The connections to the coil (Orange and Black) come already contained in a loom:



I am awaiting some parts from DelCity before finishing off the leads for the power, ground and switched 12V. The rest will be completed after engine installation so I can customize the wiring lengths.

Carl

[carlewms]

This harness on first look intimidated the hell out of me. Too many connections; not all needed for a system only controlling the fuel system (it can be used to control timing as well but I opted not to use that feature).

After going on the FAST support site I learned that the harness can be dieted down if carefully executed simplifying the harness and reducing a lot of extra wire cluttering up the engine compartment. It also helped a lot when i realized the harness really four functions:

1. Sensor Inputs to the ECU (Air & Coolant Temperature, Manifold Absolute Pressure, Throttle Position, Engine RPM );
2. Outputs from the ECU (Fan(s), Fuel Pump, Injectors, Target AFR, Idle Air Control)
3. Controls (Hand Held); and,
4. Power (Primary/Ground) from the battery and Switched 12V from the ignition switch.

Here is a summary of what I removed using the names supplied by FAST EZ EFI. Per their recommendation any dieted wires were capped with heat shrink and folded back into the harness (under the braided loom).

At the ECU:

1. CAN Link;
2. Configurable Input (reserved for future use) Grey/Black;
3. Configurable Output (reserved for future use) Blue/Yellow; and,
4. Nitrous Input Grey/Red.

In the harness:

1. These three connections are used only if the ECU is controlling timing:

- Crank Trigger;
- Distributor: and,
- Distributor Power - Pink

2. Fuel Pump Harness / Relay (single pin): Normally used to power the fuel pump relay for a standard pump in a return system. In this application I am using a returnless system where the in tank fuel pump is controlled by a digital relay. The pump speed is varied to maintain the required pressure to the throttle body; and,

As in the Ignition system I cleaned up the harness replacing standard tape with the self-sealing type and wire braid loom as appropriate. The main harness comes with a large rubber grommet for the bulkhead connection but I moved it down to give more room inside the DS to allow the ECU to pivot down for trouble shooting.

From the bulkhead to the ECU:



The ECU is located on the DS on the spot normally reserved for the fuse panel and will come out at the top of the DS foot box via the large rubber grommet on the left. The grey wire is reserved for connection to an air conditioning system (to let the ECU know when it is on) and the pink wire is to the switched power off the ignition switch.



The hand held used to program the ECU is connected to this pig tail.

There are five sensors from the engine/ignition system to the ECU:

Fuel Pressure: The sensor is located in the transmission tunnel.



Temperature Coolant: Connect the intake manifold temperature sensor to the throttle body.



Oxygen Sensor: To be connected to the sensor located in the exhaust header



Throttle Body:



Engine RPM: This will be sensed of the output of the MSD Ignition Box.



For future reference I created tags for each leg of the harness to make installation and future trouble shooting easier.

I have gone about as far as I can go on the harnesses until I get the engine installed and the throttle body attached to custom route and fit the the wires.

Carl

[Jazzman]

Ok, Carl, now you are just intimidating the heck out of me!! How do mere mortals like me even try to compete with a guy who custom makes marker tags for every electrical connection in the wiring harness?!! I'm not sure whether to throw up my hands in failure, or ask you how you made such perfect tags and steal your idea outright!!

Seriously, Carl, all your amazing work, combined with your excellent photos and explanations, are a great help. Thank you!

Jazzman

[DaleG]

Seriously, Carl, all your amazing work, combined with your excellent photos and explanations, are a great help. Thank you!

You are certainly not alone in your thinking; Carl does set a high bar!

[carlewms]

Folks,

Thank you ... So many have shared their build experiences over the years and made such a huge impact on my build, it's just seems like the right thing to do.

I think, with all the help online, and those folks that are local to each build that help, that anyone with the will can build one of these cars.

Again thanks for the kind words ... They fire me up to get back out in the garage.

Carl

[chopthebass]

Ok, Carl, now you are just intimidating the heck out of me!! How do mere mortals like me even try to compete with a guy who custom makes marker tags for every electrical connection in the wiring harness?!! I'm not sure whether to throw up my hands in failure, or ask you how you made such perfect tags and steal your idea outright!!

Seriously, Carl, all your amazing work, combined with your excellent photos and explanations, are a great help. Thank you!

Jazzman

Is that a Ken Smith in your Avatar?

[Jazzman]

Good eye, Chop! You are right. Another toy with lots of power. I used that as my inspiration to build my own. Similar body configuration, but I used a carbon fibre Modulous neck. It is at the luthier now having a half a jillion coats of lacquer applied.

[chopthebass]

Sorry to hijack the thread! Jazzman I could talk bass all day! I make my own too. You must post some pics when the bass is finished. Maybe on a new thread!!

[Ray W.]

Wow, it's cool to learn that there are other luthiers on this site! Cars and guitars… It's a great combination! Carl, your build is going great. I'm thinking about doing your mod (to Jeff's mod) to my license plate.

[carlewms]

Ray,

Thanks on two points...the compliments on the build and teaching yo this Olde Goat a new word: luthier.

Carl

[carlewms]

As you know recently the build has been a low priority although I still continue to find it to be a therapeutic break from the events of the last three months.

I finished off the sheetmetal and dynamat on the PS foot box. While I was finishing that up I got the PS courtesy light installed in the top of the foot box.







The courtesy light is LED so it should last for quite awhile. I used aluminum tape to hide the wiring.



I ran the wiring from the door switch down to the light



This last photo shows the MSD wiring harness, the courtesy light wiring harness and the power going to the rear POWERCELL all in one shot. Inside the loom carrying the power to the POWERCELL is a primary wire for unstitched power needed in the dash area (clock, seat warmers, others TBD).



Carl

[carlewms]

To recap the MSD Ignition Box is located on the outer panel of the DS foot box mounted high and out of the way of the passenger's feet.



The MSD wiring harness comes out of the foot box top and the wires will go over to the engine and the power and ground directly to the battery.





The MSD power and ground will be directly connected to the battery via the loom going off to the right along the frame. The RPM signal going to the EZ EFI ECU and the tachometer as well as the switched power from the front POWERCELL have their own loom as well as the connections to the distributor and coil.

Carl

[carlewms]

While I could have avoided using relays for the two fans by using a POWERCELL output with a 25A fuse I erred in the safe side and installed relays to power the two fans on the radiator.

I was concerned that the starting current of both fans might exceed the amperage rating for the POWERCELL (max is 25A)



The battery connections are still to be completed.

[David]

Really nice work on your build... I like the level of detail!

David

[carlewms]

Just when I think I am happy with one item another crops up that I want to "improve upon".

I really wanted to have the vintage look on the engine compartment firewall but that modification (basically what Bill D did on his nice 289 build) was dropping in priority in both the budget and in timeline.

So I decided to at least build it so all the "modern" wiring was hidden or less obvious on the firewall...and leave room for the installation of the faux wiring for a later date ... if ever.

First I created a template to cover the engine side of the "horseshoe" area... it covers the kind of awkward looking framing and will hide the wiring behind a removable panel.



Since the frame is not symmetrical at this point getting the right fit took a bit of time.

The removable cover, which will use knurled knobs similar to what I used on the top of the DS foot box, to make the cover removable for future changes or if there is not quite enough room during engine installation (Note: I did measure and the cover will fit for sure when the engine/transmission is installed ... unless I really screwed up the measurements).







The wiring to and from the transmission tunnel will now be hidden behind the cover (Fuel Pressure Sensor, Fuel Pump Power, Fuel Level Sensor) and be routed to the rear of the cover. It will also hide the connector for the dash wiring (which has to come into the engine compartment) which is a very functional but ugly part (see below). The wiring that needs to go to the ECU will be routed through the space provided in the FFR DS inside panel where the RF harness usually goes to the engine compartment.



I moved the EZ EFI 2.0 harness to route inside the dash area. I needed to route the wiring to power the ECU and to control the two fans to the front of the engine. After some over contemplation I decided to route it on top of the 2 by 2 from the DS ECU location to and through the small firewall piece on the PS.



This part of the harness will be routed PS rail to the battery and fan fuse relays. I debated for a while about combining the three wiring harnesses (body, EZ EFI and MSD) and decided for troubleshooting reasons and any future changes it was better to keep them separated ... hope this was a good idea.

Carl

[carlewms]

After further contemplation I redesigned the firewall and the cover for the horseshoe so it all sits where it meets about half way up the 2"x 2" crossmember. I did goof up one measurement and one cut which will be hidden behind a wire bundle any way.



The result is a pretty clean looking firewall ...



The firewall is now ready for installation as well with the additional support in place for the mechanical linkage. It is amazing how much stiffer the panel ... oops ... I should have said how much less flex there is in the firewall with the DE and backer plate installed.



There is still a gaggle of fuses for the EZ EFI 2.0 system that I just cannot find an easy way to clean up without major surgery to the harness ... at least they will be stuffed behind the dash but still accessible.



For the go kart phase i may just use sheetmetal screws to hold the firewall in place to make it easier to make any future mods or fixes before moving forward.