Wareaglescott's Coyote build thread - INDEX ADDED TO POST #1

[wareaglescott]

I shipped the body off to Whitby in Greensboro today. They are a forum sponsor so I assume it is ok to mention them by name. I could not find anyone locally I trusted to do the body. I have a guy in Atlanta that has done work for me and does a great job but he estimated he would need the entire car for 6 months. Now I am not on a hard timeline but the thought of it being out of my hands for 6 months did not sound good. The pros for using them in my opinion were; 1. They have done a lot of these cars and the people I talked to that used them were very satisfied, 2. They have their own frame so they can do the bodywork while I build up to go cart stage and 3 I was very happy after speaking with Jeff about their process.

I am not completely decided but think when they are done with the bodywork I will take them the go cart and let them install the body. It would be additional expense but at that stage as I approach the finished product I believe it would be a worthwhile expense. Then I can bring the car home and do the finishing touches. Excited to get some sprayed color samples they are going to send me. I requested about 4 of the body color and 3 stripe colors so I can hone in on the final combination.

[WIS89]

Scott-

You are making great time! I know you said a couple of color options to help you make your decision, but what are you thinking of going with?

The folks at Whitby's have done quite a few cars, so I suspect you will be pleased with their work.

It's a great decision to have the paint done while you keep working on the rest of the car. I wish I were able to do that myself.

Keep cranking!

Regards,

Steve

[wareaglescott]

Scott-

You are making great time! I know you said a couple of color options to help you make your decision, but what are you thinking of going with?

The folks at Whitby's have done quite a few cars, so I suspect you will be pleased with their work.

It's a great decision to have the paint done while you keep working on the rest of the car. I wish I were able to do that myself.

Keep cranking!

Regards,

Steve

Thanks Steve!
My car will look like the one I had drawn up that is my profile picture. Gray with orange stripes. Just need to fine tune the gray and orange colors.

[WIS89]

Thanks Steve!
My car will look like the one I had drawn up that is my profile picture. Gray with orange stripes. Just need to fine tune the gray and orange colors.

Scott-

Yes of course; I knew you were using that color combination. I got thrown off my game when you said you were getting color samples for the body and stripes. Sorry about that!

I look forward to seeing what they send you to consider. Travel up and back safely!

Regards,

Steve

[wareaglescott]

Going to start on the pedal box today. I wanted to go ahead and put the heat/sound shield on the drivers footbox front panel. I am just holding it in place with clecos for the time being. Figured that piece of heat shield would be tricky to get in after it was permanently installed. I did learn another rookie lesson. First piece I cut from my template I wasn't really thinking about what side the sticky was on and ended up making it backwards! Luckily it is a big piece so I should be able to repurpose it on smaller panels and not waste it. The piece to the top right is not adhered yet because I know I will have to cut through it as things route through the panel.



I went ahead and attached the firewall. The manual indicated it was a good idea to cut the hole for the heater prior to mounting so I did that. I temporarily mounted the heater. I notice this thing is pretty heavy on the thin firewall. I decided to order the firewall support piece from replicaparts.com. That should help. I do have a question. This heater takes up a fair amount of space. Any coyote builders find the is a problem in the engine bay? I know things get pretty tight in there. I know space is at a premium behind the firewall as well but I will not have a glove box so the size of this seems about equal to that so hopefully everything should fit.

[Jazzman]

Nice job leaving space in the heat shielding at the edge for the panels to intersect. You will be happy you did that when you go to fit things later. You might want to figure out what holes you will need to cut on that top right piece and get it installed permanently. There are quite a few things going through that wall that you will be installing very soon. You are also very wise to leave the sides of the foot box off until after you have run your brake and clutch lines. The additional access is very helpful. Keep up the good work! At this pace, your car will be done before mine!!

[wareaglescott]

I got the pedal box in. I ended up notching the pedal vs doing the frame modification.


I think it was a good idea to put the heat/sound insulation on the forward panel of the drivers footbox before I mounted it. That stuff is really sticky! I cant imagine trying to work it in there with the pedals in place. Just had to be sure to leave space where the other panels would overlap.


I do have a question about the master cylinders and the brake balance bar. The FFR youtube video on the pedal box install (which is an older unit but I think still applies) indicates you should thread the rod into the piece enough so that the brake pedal is off the frame. The build manual indicates a good starting point is when you can see the thread flush with the part it is threading into. I tried a couple different positions and still seem to have the pedal bumping up against the frame rail. Any suggestions on adjusting this? When it comes time to set the brake balance the Wilwood instructions mention a quick check gauge part 260-0966. Is this something that is needed? Has anyone used this? I have no idea what to expect as far as setting up the brake balance so any tips or info is appreciated.

[edwardb]

I went ahead and attached the firewall. The manual indicated it was a good idea to cut the hole for the heater prior to mounting so I did that. I temporarily mounted the heater. I notice this thing is pretty heavy on the thin firewall. I decided to order the firewall support piece from replicaparts.com. That should help. I do have a question. This heater takes up a fair amount of space. Any coyote builders find the is a problem in the engine bay? I know things get pretty tight in there. I know space is at a premium behind the firewall as well but I will not have a glove box so the size of this seems about equal to that so hopefully everything should fit.

I'm not installing a heater, but do have the Coyote installed so can offer some input. A standard sized glovebox won't fit, but you already mentioned that. On the firewall side, there's 7-inches of space from the firewall to the Coyote in the space above the PS footbox. The distance to the engine reduces to about 5-inches toward the center where the CMCV (Charge Motion Control Valve) vacuum motors are mounted on the back of the engine. These are new for the 2015 Coyote, so previous Coyote installations didn't have to deal with these. But I think this is well away from the area required for the heater. You will need to find a different location for the wiper motor if you're installing wipers. But many have dealt with that. The way I routed the Coyote harness may not work with a heater on the firewall, but there's plenty of cable to find another path. You also should have plenty of room for the regulator and PDB (Power Distribution Box) on the firewall should you choose to mount them there.

I do have a question about the master cylinders and the brake balance bar. The FFR youtube video on the pedal box install (which is an older unit but I think still applies) indicates you should thread the rod into the piece enough so that the brake pedal is off the frame. The build manual indicates a good starting point is when you can see the thread flush with the part it is threading into. I tried a couple different positions and still seem to have the pedal bumping up against the frame rail. Any suggestions on adjusting this? When it comes time to set the brake balance the Wilwood instructions mention a quick check gauge part 260-0966. Is this something that is needed? Has anyone used this? I have no idea what to expect as far as setting up the brake balance so any tips or info is appreciated.

I wouldn't worry so much about the location of the threads in the clevis other than making sure you have full engagement. Get the brake pedal where it needs to be, e.g. not contacting the frame rail. You may find you want to adjust the pedals further once the seats are in and you adjust everything to suit you. I have not heard of or used the gauge you mentioned. For the initial install, center the balance bar and leave it there for now. The cylinders may or may not appear to be balanced when you press the brake pedal, but don't pay any attention to that until you have fluid in the system.

[wareaglescott]

Thanks Paul.
I am not installing a wiper motor so won't worry about that. Found out I can get away with a hand crank windshield wiper to meet Alabama's regulations so I purchased one that just clips onto the windshield frame. The 7 and 5 inch reference points you give are helpful. I think I should be ok.

[bansheekev]

I went ahead and attached the firewall. The manual indicated it was a good idea to cut the hole for the heater prior to mounting so I did that. I temporarily mounted the heater. I notice this thing is pretty heavy on the thin firewall. I decided to order the firewall support piece from replicaparts.com. That should help. I do have a question. This heater takes up a fair amount of space. Any coyote builders find the is a problem in the engine bay? I know things get pretty tight in there. I know space is at a premium behind the firewall as well but I will not have a glove box so the size of this seems about equal to that so hopefully everything should fit.

I'm the poster child for sticking as much stuff as humanly possible behind the dash. Mine is a 2013 Coyote and I have the standard FFR firewall (no firewall forward modification), the FFR heater, a shallow glovebox from Alex's Custom Roadster Interiors, and the Coyote power distribution box (PDB) all behind the dash. Yes, it is very tight but I made it work. I omitted the defroster vents and went with only the two floor vents as from my perspective without a top they don't accomplish much of anything. I made a firewall stiffener similar to the one you describe from Mike Everson. I think what made it all possible was the addition of an under-dash panel from Mike Everson, making the dash wiring with Molex quick disconnects, and making the dash easily removable. Some ask about accessing fuses in the PDB if one goes and it being a pain to get to. The only two fuses to worry about in the PDB are the fuel pump and fan. My fuel pump is run off the Ron Francis harness exclusively so no issue there. The fan is also run off the Ron Francis harness but triggered by the fan circuit from the PDB so there is no load on it. That leaves only the main ECM fuse which I doubt would ever be an issue. I did a ton of reorganization on all of the behind the dash wiring to make it compact and efficient routing wires terminating in the same physical area be bundled together. I then used adhesive mounting tabs for zip ties attached to the top of the under dash panel to keep all the wiring in place. All the Coyote and heater wiring go through the hole on the passenger side. I just had to buy the appropriate grommet for that hole. The wires for the gauge senders on the drivers side of the motor go through the driver's footbox and straight under the engine cover. The Ron Francis front harness for headlights/marker lights/cooling fan go through the front of the footbox where FFR intended.

I looked for a better picture but couldn't find one but here you go... Check out my graduation thread below for some pictures of the completed car to get an idea of under the hood spacing.

IMG_1735.JPG

[edwardb]

I'm the poster child for sticking as much stuff as humanly possible behind the dash. Mine is a 2013 Coyote and I have the standard FFR firewall (no firewall forward modification), the FFR heater, a shallow glovebox from Alex's Custom Roadster Interiors, and the Coyote power distribution box (PDB) all behind the dash. Yes, it is very tight but I made it work. I omitted the defroster vents and went with only the two floor vents as from my perspective without a top they don't accomplish much of anything. I made a firewall stiffener similar to the one you describe from Mike Everson. I think what made it all possible was the addition of an under-dash panel from Mike Everson, making the dash wiring with Molex quick disconnects, and making the dash easily removable. Some ask about accessing fuses in the PDB if one goes and it being a pain to get to. The only two fuses to worry about in the PDB are the fuel pump and fan. My fuel pump is run off the Ron Francis harness exclusively so no issue there. The fan is also run off the Ron Francis harness but triggered by the fan circuit from the PDB so there is no load on it. That leaves only the main ECM fuse which I doubt would ever be an issue. I did a ton of reorganization on all of the behind the dash wiring to make it compact and efficient routing wires terminating in the same physical area be bundled together. I then used adhesive mounting tabs for zip ties attached to the top of the under dash panel to keep all the wiring in place. All the Coyote and heater wiring go through the hole on the passenger side. I just had to buy the appropriate grommet for that hole. The wires for the gauge senders on the drivers side of the motor go through the driver's footbox and straight under the engine cover. The Ron Francis front harness for headlights/marker lights/cooling fan go through the front of the footbox where FFR intended.

I looked for a better picture but couldn't find one but here you go... Check out my graduation thread below for some pictures of the completed car to get an idea of under the hood spacing.

Nice packaging. My hats off to you getting all that behind the dash. My personal opinion though is the 2015 Coyote PDB is going to be very difficult to get behind the dash. It's physically larger, has large harness wires, and is full of potentially serviceable fuses and relays. The unit is a DD style part vs. the quite different and specialized PDB used previously. These are typically place underhood in DD's, which is where I chose to mount mine. Plus I do have the Coyote PCM/PDB controlling the fuel pump and cooling fan plus I used a couple of the AUX circuits it has available. Used this way, it needs to be readily accessible IMO. Also they revised the power requirements and expect you to attach a #4 battery cable to the front terminal, further complicating matters compared to the previous version.



Now watch someone figure out a way get this thing behind the dash. I'll be interested in seeing how they work it out. At the very least, I believe it would require some major surgery to the harness. I did a little bit, but didn't get into those large harnesses.

[wareaglescott]

Thanks for the input Bansheekev and Paul. Both good bits of useful information!

[bansheekev]

Yeah, if mine was that big I was out of luck. If I had extra switched circuits like the new one has I probably would have used a couple like you did too. All I know (and what I've had so many people tell me) is that the engine compartment of mine is clean clean clean. Everything is hidden you don't need to see and it doesn't look cluttered. Kind of my style keep it simple and clean. Made the headache of getting everything back there worth it!

Continue on both of you! I'm entertained watching. BTW - I'm now building a 69 Bronco using a Coyote from a 2013 F150! Think I'm sold on this motor or what?

Kevin

[coyobra]

Sorry for the late response. I presented the punch idea to one of the local powder coaters. He had never been approached with this question before but suggested I bring in a test piece and see how it comes out. He did say the back side of the punch will come out convex (for lack of a better word) and opposite of the "punched" side, like looking at it in a mirror. I also made a copy of the drawing of panels attached to the chassis from the assembly manual and thinking to punch the numbers associated with each panel 1 through 44. I'm sure there are some panels that might be different than in the manual depending on the kit and kit options, but it gives a general idea of where they go. Still deciding on how to go about this, but I have a few weeks to think about it. My kit completion date is today and expect delivery in a few weeks.

[wareaglescott]

Sorry for the late response. I presented the punch idea to one of the local powder coaters. He had never been approached with this question before but suggested I bring in a test piece and see how it comes out. He did say the back side of the punch will come out convex (for lack of a better word) and opposite of the "punched" side, like looking at it in a mirror. I also made a copy of the drawing of panels attached to the chassis from the assembly manual and thinking to punch the numbers associated with each panel 1 through 44. I'm sure there are some panels that might be different than in the manual depending on the kit and kit options, but it gives a general idea of where they go. Still deciding on how to go about this, but I have a few weeks to think about it. My kit completion date is today and expect delivery in a few weeks.

I found when I got into the panel work it really will not be a problem worth going to the effort of stamping them I don't believe. I spent the time drilling them all as I took them off. This accomplished two things. 1. I am quite familiar with each panel and how it fits together with the surrounding panels and I don't think it will be that hard to find the correct placement going back together. & 2. With the holes already there they will only line up one way and in the right place with the corresponding hole the rivet will attach to.
There may be some sorting to find the correct panel but I have no concern of getting them back in the right place.
I think this was an area I worried about before the kit showed up. Once yours does I don't think you should have a problem with the panels. Much easier to figure out once you can actually see and touch them.

[coyobra]

That makes alot of sense. I was also contemplating whether I should drill before removing the panels or drill after. Drilling before removing is like the snowflake - no two alike, so if the panels with holes don't align, go back and pick the right one. I'll drill before. I guess I shouldn't sweat small stuff like this, but sometimes you need to be pushed in the right direction. The good thing that came out of this is now I have added a punch kit to my tool collection! : - ). Thanks for helping me remove one more thing from my "best way to do" list.

[Jazzman]

BTW - I'm now building a 69 Bronco using a Coyote from a 2013 F150! Think I'm sold on this motor or what?
Kevin

Better start a build thread someplace, Kevin. That is exactly my next project!

[ZachT]

Just wanted to say "thank you" for the detailed build thread. Please continue with the photos and level of detail. These types of threads are so helpful to myself and others without much experience. I look forward to contributing my own thread when I reach the point where I can do my own kit

[bansheekev]

Better start a build thread someplace, Kevin. That is exactly my next project!

Here you go:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...926#post244926

[wareaglescott]

Just wanted to say "thank you" for the detailed build thread. Please continue with the photos and level of detail. These types of threads are so helpful to myself and others without much experience. I look forward to contributing my own thread when I reach the point where I can do my own kit

Sure thing. I'm learning a ton. Sometimes the hard way! Hoping my perspective from a total novice will help others like me out.
Been traveling the last couple days. Can't wait to get back to work tomorrow!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Apologies in advance for the quick hijack Scott

Bansheekev & Jazzman,
I love, love, LOVE the early Broncos! Just to whet your appetites here's a 'glass body one I just did in Lexus Spectra Blue for a customer:



It's an EFI 5.0 with AOD-E but I have an autocross buddy who is almost finished putting a Coyote in his. It's awesome! Did I mention that I love the early Broncos

Jeff

[KDubU]

Apologies in advance for the quick hijack Scott

Bansheekev & Jazzman,
I love, love, LOVE the early Broncos! Just to whet your appetites here's a 'glass body one I just did in Lexus Spectra Blue for a customer:



It's an EFI 5.0 with AOD-E but I have an autocross buddy who is almost finished putting a Coyote in his. It's awesome! Did I mention that I love the early Broncos

Jeff

That is nice! My wife wants me to do this as my next project as we missed buying a gorgeous one that was for sale locally two years ago.

[wareaglescott]

That is nice! My wife wants me to do this as my next project as we missed buying a gorgeous one that was for sale locally two years ago.

Must be something about those early Broncos! I love them also. Seems like a lot of Cobra guys are also drawn to Broncos. That blue one looks fantastic!

[Jeff Kleiner]

... Seems like a lot of Cobra guys are also drawn to Broncos...

Interestinly enough the owner of the one above has a Mk3 and my friend building the coyote powered one owns a Backdraft.

Jeff

[bansheekev]

Jeff, love the Bronco. Out here on the west coast these things are like gold. I am astounded at the money people want for them. Kind of crazy. That is why I bought myself a bunch of rust repair labor. After selling motor/trans/interior I'm only in for $2800. Add $1000 in reproduction metal, spot weld cutter, and a fresh bottle of gas for the welder and bring it on! Sorry to hijack the thread - lets get this one back to a FFR build thread....

Kevin

[wareaglescott]

I ordered this firewall support piece from replica parts. When I mounted the heater box the firewall seemed in need of some support.

I am curious about the space requirements behind the dash before I permanently mount this. Would it be wise to cut some of the piece away so I can route wires through there? I do not have a good concept for the space requirements for things. Any input on potential problems with installing this piece as is would be appreciated.

Thanks

[bansheekev]

I ordered this firewall support piece from replica parts. When I mounted the heater box the firewall seemed in need of some support.

I am curious about the space requirements behind the dash before I permanently mount this. Would it be wise to cut some of the piece away so I can route wires through there? I do not have a good concept for the space requirements for things. Any input on potential problems with installing this piece as is would be appreciated.

Thanks

I would drill at least a 1" hole in it and find a good grommet. I would have liked to run some wires through the same dash support I fabricated but I figured it out too late and had to be creative. Worked out fine in the end but probably cost me a day that I could have been doing something else.

Kevin

[wareaglescott]

Well today was a hard day on the wallet but I am pleased that I have now spent what I expect to be about 95% of the total cost. I ordered my engine, transmission and all the supporting parts today. I will be excited for those goodies to start showing up!

I am a little frustrated at this point with the amount of incomplete projects I have piling up. I guess that is how it goes. Backordered parts are keeping me from completing the front and rear suspension, sway bars, steering, emergency brakes, and manual driveshaft adapter. Feel like I have a bunch of things 85% done.

I started work on the front and rear sway bars today. The only thing I am missing is the female rod ends so I got everything installed except those. I was pretty ticked off with the build manual instructions again. When I installed the toe adjustment arms I did notice the note in the manual indicating if you were using the rear sway bar to go ahead and install the frame mount brackets then and use the 5/8" by 2.25" bolts and torque them to 100lbs. I did that and continued to build the IRS up around that. Today as I get to the sway bar it says to replace the 2.25" bolts with 2.5" bolts that are provided in the sway bar hardware. Problem is with the rest of the IRS components in place it is quite difficult to get the leverage to break the 100lb torque I previously applied to take these bolts off. After I saw that was going to be an issue I noticed I had about 1-1.5 threads of the 2.25" bolt extending beyond the nut. After some internet research it appears this is acceptable. At this point I plan to not kill myself trying to get those bolts out.
I just wish the instructions were a little better. If they are going to the trouble to put the note in about mounting the frame mount bracket it would be nice if they could finish the job and mention the longer bolt. I would have liked to use the longer bolt but feel the 2.25" one will be fine. Another issue was the FFR directions for the sway bar indicate nothing about greasing the bushings. Every other bushing I have put on the car has grease on it. I did not really think about it until after I am done.
Should I go back and disassemble this so I can grease them?
If you are a first time builder reading this make a note on these two items so you don't have the same issue I did.

Both of these are insignificant things to an experienced builder but for a rookie like me I sure would have preferred a better set of instructions. I am learning a lot the hard way. I guess that is what it is about! ha Next car I will know what I am doing!

[stack]

keep posting pics. I'm right behind you waiting for parts myself. Aluminum went to powder coat today.

stack

[wareaglescott]

Today I made a bracket and mounted the CNC triple reservoir I purchased for the brakes and hydraulic clutch. Went in nicely. Used some guidance from other build threads to position it correctly and make sure the hood would clear.


After that I finished up with the steering rack install. Still missing some parts to install the shaft and steering wheel at this time. I used the Breeze offset mounting rack kit and it went together very nicely and helped center things up.

After that I installed the IRS vent. The two part numbers you need are in the picture below. The little silver plug that goes into the differential and attaches to the vent tube was pretty hard to track down. I initially ordered at one place and they ended up telling me it was on back order for 8 weeks. I lucked out and found the last one at another retailer after looking around a bit. If you are doing the IRS go ahead and order both of these now. The longest part of installing this was finding the frame clips in my parts boxes so I could hold it in place!

I did have one question today if anyone can help. The grease fittings on the outer tie rods will not take any grease. Is this normal? I did have to adjust them with a metric wrench to line them up properly. All the previous ones I have used were SAE. A metric fitting doesn't require some other sort of grease gun does it?
Thanks

[Duke]

^^ I had issues with my LCA ball joints not taking grease. Not uncommon now days with the cheaper overseas zerk fittings on parts. Here's what I used to get it fixed. A good tool to have. Just follow the instructions:

https://www.zerkzapper.com/

[wareaglescott]

^^ I had issues with my LCA ball joints not taking grease. Not uncommon now days with the cheaper overseas zerk fittings on parts. Here's what I used to get it fixed. A good tool to have. Just follow the instructions:

https://www.zerkzapper.com/

Thanks Duke. Can I just change the fitting and save some money or is the problem beyond the fitting generally?

[wareaglescott]

Last post I asked about the grease fitting not taking grease. Decided to just switch them out as I had some extra grease fittings sitting around. First one worked great. Went to take the second one off and it was totally stripped. Just kept spinning and would not come out. FFR is sending me a new part. Hopefully that one will work better.

My goal today was to mock up the breeze forward battery tray and fan shroud so I could then take the pieces to the powder coater. The battery tray went in no problem. I really appreciate Mark from Breeze and his attention to detail in the way he labels all the parts in the bags and his directions are top notch.


Part of the battery tray does require you to tap some holes in the frame. That was a first for me. Another excuse to buy a new tool! As I had never done this before I practiced on some spare metal pipe I had after watching a youtube instructional video. Actually quite easy to do.


After I finished that I started on the radiator. Mounted the fan to the breeze fan shroud. Then I started working on the breeze upper radiator mount. Had to stop to run to the powder coater so I will pick back up with that tomorrow.
Tomorrow should be fun. The motor and transmission are getting delivered. I am excited to have the last major components coming in!

I was going through all my remaining boxes just checking that I had nothing else that needed powder coating. Can someone tell me what these are? I am stumped!

[edwardb]

I was going through all my remaining boxes just checking that I had nothing else that needed powder coating. Can someone tell me what these are? I am stumped!

Those are mounts for hood pins. From the days before there were hood hinges (it's been a long time now...) but still supplied. You have the actual pins in one of your boxes too. That's cool your engine and trans will there soon. It's pretty exciting opening those packages.

[wareaglescott]

Thanks Paul. Glad I did not take them for powder coating in that case! I figured I did not need them. I am slightly concerned about the space crunch when everything shows up tomorrow!

[wareaglescott]

I finished the radiator mounting today. Just a mock up as it will come off when I put the motor in and the shroud is still at powder coating. At this point though it can just bolt in and out. I used the Breeze upper and lower radiator mounting kits.

On the upper kit you have to cut the factory mounting points away so the hinge can operate properly and sit flat on the mounting bar. In the picture below I have cut the left one off. Then I grinded them down and touched up the paint. That area will be completely covered so I figured painting was no problem and reapplying powder coat isn't an option.


The lower mounting kit was very easy to install. Only tricky part was getting it lined up at 51 degrees from level. Could have used a second set of hands but it worked out nicely. I covered it with tape and cardboard to protect the aluminum fins during the build.


While I was working on that I had tons of deliveries coming in. It was Christmas in July for me. The engine, transmission, and all the associated parts like the clutch, bell housing, control pack, etc came in. The coyote motor looks huge! My wife swears there is no way it will fit in the car. It is good to have the major components all on hand now. I have been working hard to empty parts boxes and free up some space. I swear for every one I empty another 1.5-2 show up! Storage space is at a premium! I still need to figure out a solution for working on the motor. The flywheel comes installed so I don't want to take it off to put it on an engine stand. Once I put the Moroso oil pan on it won't fit back in the crate it came in and I don't want to leave it hanging on the crane for an extended time. I saw EdwardB built a wood stand. I may try that or am open to other suggestions.


I am one month in since delivery. Pretty satisfied with the progress so far.

[wareaglescott]

I started putting my footbox aluminum back on the car. I don't plan to permanently mount it yet but wanted to mock it up and start putting the heat shield on the inside of the panels while I wait for some backordered parts that have me stopped on a couple other areas. I do plan to drop the motor in to start mocking everything else up. I believe I will have to go ahead and make the engine compartment drivers side footbox panels permanent prior to doing that. On good advice I will leave the top off and outer side pieces until I must do it. I am really liking the black powder coat against the frame and am glad I decided to go with that.


Once I had the drivers footbox mocked up I had to sit in the car and check the room for my size 13 feet. It is tight as expected! Something that is completely obvious but totally missed by me when I was putting the pedals in was the ability to offset them when mounting. I had just centered them up when I originally put them in. After I saw how tight it was I moved them over to the left as far as I could. Probably 1/4-1/2" is all they moved but it made a huge difference for my feet. Still think I will have to get some shoes with a pretty tight side profile. It is funny how obvious some of these things are but as a first time builder I totally overlook them the first time I see it. I am certainly enjoying the learning aspect of this and feel my confidence level improving as I try new things.

I have to go fly around for 4 days so I can pay for all this stuff that keeps showing up! I will be home Tuesday night. Look forward to getting back to work Wednesday. I did receive shipping notification that I have a box coming from FFR Tuesday so hopefully those will be some of the backordered parts I am waiting on!

[unrealmach1]

Looking good. I agree the powder coating looks great.

[wareaglescott]

After a few days away I started working on the footbox heat and sound insulation.


I am still just in a temporary mock up on these and do not plan to rivet them for a while. I found with all my pre-drilled holes that if I took the shielding all the way to the edge the panels would not fit together very well. I decided just to run the insulation up to the flanges where the panels overlap so when I join them they will fit together nicely. Then I will go back after final installation and cut thin strips to cover the rivet lines and the flanges where the panels overlap. I also have some dynamat rolls of tape I will cover the seems with. I think that should provide adequate protection.

[wareaglescott]

Picked up my last few items from the powder coater today including the forward battery tray and fan shroud. Both of them Breeze products. I was able to get them installed. The radiator assembly is just temporarily installed and will come out when the motor goes in. I like not having the battery in the trunk. I did not do any trunk floor modifications so the extra space back there will help just a bit.



I got my Ebrake cables in my last backorder shipment. Was excited to get those run and installed but realized I do not have the spacers needed for the Wilwood option so I did not get very far with that project. I do have a question. The build manual indicates to tie wrap the cable to the IRS lower control arm. It does show a picture of the older IRS though. There does not seem to be much spare cable and I would think if it were tied to the suspension the movement might cause unwanted Ebrake activation. Is this an issue? Does everyone tie wrap as recommended?

Lots of black in this picture so I am pointing at the cable in question.