Vehicle and trailer compatibility

[ThickCobra]

I'm looking for input on my vehicle and trailer towing calculations as I'm narrowing down my vehicle and trailer combination.

I have no need for a full size pick up truck so I am looking at the Chevrolet Colorado 4 door crew cab with 8 speed automatic and full towing package. I'm trading in my late model Subaru Outback so the truck will also be my daily driver. The Colorado has a gvw of 5400 - 6100 lbs.and a towing capacity of about 7000lbs. I am estimating the Cobra weight at around 2300 lbs and the 16 ' aluminum Serpent Express trailer (per their web site) to weigh 1300 lbs.

So, if I estimate another 200 lbs of gear in the trailer, 1600 lb trailer and 2300 Cobra, we're at 4100 lbs. Someone mentioned to me that I probably want to stay within only 80 % of the 7000lbs limit (5600 lbs) to ensure safe drivability. At 4100 lbs, that puts me well under the 5600 lb range. And my trailer and Cobra weigh less than my vehicle.

Did I miss anything?

[edwardb]

We use a Dodge Durango AWD SUV to tow our 14-foot aluminum deck SE and Roadster. It's the V6 model with the factory towing package and is rated for 6,200 lbs. The Roadster is 2,469 lbs (confirmed when I corner weighted it) so I figure I'm around 3800 lbs. We rarely have anything else in the trailer. With the 14-foot SE, not room for much else. But obviously well under the towing capacity and it's rock solid. Often forget it's back there other than I can't see out of the center rear view mirror. I think you'll be fine.

The SE uses electric brakes, so depending on your vehicle you may need to add a controller. Our Durango has a class IV receiver tube. All we had to add was the receiver, ball, and electric brake controller.

[michael everson]

I tow with a 2005 Lexus GX470 It is rated at 7500 lbs. I also have an aluminum trailer. I don't even know its back there when I'm towing. You should be fine.
Mike

[ThickCobra]

Thanks for the feedback. Have either of you found the need to add a weight distribution hitch? My guess is it's not needed for our application ?

[michael everson]

I have not. Just make sure you install a brake controller if you don't have one.
Mike

[roadscholar]

You should check the GVWR of the Colorado, this is the maximum allowable weight of the truck, trailer and cargo. You should be good to go with this combination. I would suggest keeping 400 to 500 lbs of weight on the hitch with the car on the trailer. You may have to get axle weights at the local truck scale to figure this out.

John

[ThickCobra]

You should check the GVWR of the Colorado, this is the maximum allowable weight of the truck, trailer and cargo. You should be good to go with this combination. I would suggest keeping 400 to 500 lbs of weight on the hitch with the car on the trailer. You may have to get axle weights at the local truck scale to figure this out.

John

I checked and see the gross combined weight rating for the Colorado is 12,000 lbs. Does this make sense? The vehicle's gvwr is 6,000.

[Truthbetold18]

The Colorado will take the weight and should have no issues pulling. As said by others, make sure you install a brake controller for the electric brakes on the trailer. There's countless posts on YouTube how to install and I'm sure your truck will have a harness under the dash somewhere. If you have never pulled a trailer, read your owners manual. The terrain youre driving on and your driving style will dictate how long your transmission lasts. Treat it right and there WILL NOT be an issue.

[Gumball]

Jay - I have a Serpent Express retro-fit on my steel trailer and I estimate the rig weighs around 1800 lbs. I tow with my 2015 4Runner, which has a capacity of 5k, and have never had any issues. In fact, I towed my wife's '67 Camaro (approx. 3800 lbs) in this and still was fine from a power and handling perspective. I do use a weight-distribution hitch, though, which helps quite a bit.

[mike223]

I checked and see the gross combined weight rating for the Colorado is 12,000 lbs.

I'm thinking the federal dot regulation is 10,000 lbs (gross) - the differential between commercial + private licenses (+ additional dot physical requirements).

Also thinking the federal dot requirement on trailer brakes is 3,000 lbs - at 3,000 lbs you need (functional) trailer brakes on every (trailer) axle.


If memory serves...


Only important if you cross state lines (and get caught)...

[edwardb]

I'm thinking the federal dot regulation is 10,000 lbs (gross) - the differential between commercial + private licenses (+ additional dot physical requirements).

Also thinking the federal dot requirement on trailer brakes is 3,000 lbs - at 3,000 lbs you need (functional) trailer brakes on every (trailer) axle.

If memory serves...

Only important if you cross state lines (and get caught)...

Assume you're talking about the need for a CDL here? The 10,000 lbs number cited is for the trailer only. And that's if being pulled by a vehicle over 26,000. What 99% of us are doing here, e.g. using pickups or SUV's to pull a car trailer for non-commerical purposes, can be operated legally with a regular driver's license. Nothing special required.

As far as brakes, the standard SE is a tandem axle with electric brakes on all four wheels.

[mike223]

What 99% of us are doing here, e.g. using pickups or SUV's to pull a car trailer for non-commerical purposes, can be operated legally with a regular driver's license. Nothing special required.

Agreed (mostly) - it had been a while since I reviewed the regs.

You still get into dot physicals / etc at 10000 lbs gross if at all commercial though.

This quick reference appears to be up to date:

https://dps.mn.gov/divisions/msp/for...ly_handout.pdf

[Bob Cowan]

Shouldn't be a problem. I have the diesel engine, because I live at high altitude. But by all accounts, the V6/8 speed tows really well. Be sure and get the trailer tow package, and it will include a brake controller that works very well. Even with the heavier Cobra, you don't need a weight distributing hitch.

I waited to get my hands on the long bed. I carry enough stuff to the track that the extra room is nice. And the longer wheel base gives a smoother ride.

I love the diesel engine. Smooth, powerful, and economical. Running across WY I set the cruise control at 85 and relax, it will get 27mpg. Traveling the back roads of the Rockies will get almost 35mpg, and has plenty of power to pull any mountain pass. But, you do pay a few thousand more for it in the beginning. You don't need it where you live, but it is nice. If you have the means, I strongly suggest you acquire one.

[Jazzman]

I don't want to dissuade you from a Serpent Express. They are clearly well made and purpose focused on exactly what we do. But just to give you one more option to consider, take a look at Kwik-Load Trailers Car Hauler. Video 1. Video 2. I have one, and thus far am very impressed with the quality and features for the money. Best of all, loading and unloading is a snap! No ramps, extremely low load angle. Like Gumball has already done, I am looking into adding the retrofit soft top from Serpent Express to this trailer. After you factor in the additional cost of the aluminum trailer from SE, the total cost is almost identical for similar features. (SE charges extra for some features that come standard on the Kwik-Load trailer.) There is a weight difference: the 14' SE is about 1300lbs per EdwardB's post, and the Kwikload steel trailer after I add the SE cover is right at 2000lbs. I pull it with a Ford F-150, but it has the 3.5L turbo V-6 Engine and full towing package. For the ease of loading and flexibility for other uses (motorcycles, quads, other equipment), I decided to go with the Kwik-Load. Good luck with your decision. You can't go wrong either way!

[ThickCobra]

I don't want to dissuade you from a Serpent Express. They are clearly well made and purpose focused on exactly what we do. But just to give you one more option to consider, take a look at Kwik-Load Trailers Car Hauler. Video 1. Video 2. I have one, and thus far am very impressed with the quality and features for the money. Best of all, loading and unloading is a snap! No ramps, extremely low load angle. Like Gumball has already done, I am looking into adding the retrofit soft top from Serpent Express to this trailer. After you factor in the additional cost of the aluminum trailer from SE, the total cost is almost identical for similar features. (SE charges extra for some features that come standard on the Kwik-Load trailer.) There is a weight difference: the 14' SE is about 1300lbs per EdwardB's post, and the Kwikload steel trailer after I add the SE cover is right at 2000lbs. I pull it with a Ford F-150, but it has the 3.5L turbo V-6 Engine and full towing package. For the ease of loading and flexibility for other uses (motorcycles, quads, other equipment), I decided to go with the Kwik-Load. Good luck with your decision. You can't go wrong either way!

Jazzman,

Thanks for the option, I will look into it.

[ThickCobra]

Shouldn't be a problem. I have the diesel engine, because I live at high altitude. But by all accounts, the V6/8 speed tows really well. Be sure and get the trailer tow package, and it will include a brake controller that works very well. Even with the heavier Cobra, you don't need a weight distributing hitch.

I waited to get my hands on the long bed. I carry enough stuff to the track that the extra room is nice. And the longer wheel base gives a smoother ride.

I love the diesel engine. Smooth, powerful, and economical. Running across WY I set the cruise control at 85 and relax, it will get 27mpg. Traveling the back roads of the Rockies will get almost 35mpg, and has plenty of power to pull any mountain pass. But, you do pay a few thousand more for it in the beginning. You don't need it where you live, but it is nice. If you have the means, I strongly suggest you acquire one.

Bob,

I test drove the Colorado and Canyon today and optioned up both models. Didn't give much thought to the 6' bed but I will now. I liked the way they drove and tried both v6 and diesel. You are correct, being in WI., v6 works just fine, though the diesel has better gas mpg. I appreciate your input.

[Bob Cowan]

I don't want to dissuade you from a Serpent Express. They are clearly well made and purpose focused on exactly what we do. But just to give you one more option to consider, take a look at Kwik-Load Trailers Car Hauler. Video 1. Video 2.

No reason you can't have both, I think. Larry can build the frame and cover for just about any trailer. He can probably put one on this trailer, too. If you're interested, I'd call and ask him.

[al r]

I'm towing 14' aluminum frame Serpent Express with 2016 Colorado. V6, 4x4, towing package, brake controller with brakes on both trailer axels, 5' bed. After a year of towing, Very happy with the combination. Colorado handles the trailer just fine with reasonable mileage.
Cheers
A

[Jazzman]

No reason you can't have both, I think. Larry can build the frame and cover for just about any trailer. He can probably put one on this trailer, too. If you're interested, I'd call and ask him.

You are right Bob! I already have started the email communication with him. Larry confirmed he can, indeed, make a SE soft cover that will fit my Kwik-Load trailer. No extra charge for narrowing the cover by 4". There is an extra charge for the longer length (14' vs 18'). I would have to modify the frame plan slightly to adapt to the slightly narrower trailer deck width. No big deal there. I am still considering it. Lead time is currently 6-8 weeks.

[ThickCobra]

I'm towing 14' aluminum frame Serpent Express with 2016 Colorado. V6, 4x4, towing package, brake controller with brakes on both trailer axels, 5' bed. After a year of towing, Very happy with the combination. Colorado handles the trailer just fine with reasonable mileage.
Cheers
A

A, nice setup. I thought I was set with the 5' bed for the Colorado, but seeing Bob's truck, thought I'd ask you whether you would recommend the 6' bed. I know it's a personal preference, but if you were shopping for one now, would you find the 6' bed preferable.

Thanks.

[Jeff Kleiner]

RE: Weight distributing hitch. They can be kind of pricey. You built a car, surely you could construct your own hitch. Really, how hard can it be:



OK, maybe this is an model of "how not to" and an example of just because you can doesn't mean you should!

After driving a Dakota for many years I've taken over our big Ram 2500. It'll drag anything but man, it is big and cumbersome which I rarely need. I find the mid size Canyon/Colorado very appealing and have been curious about the diesel. Good to hear Bob's take on it.

Jeff

[al r]

A, nice setup. I thought I was set with the 5' bed for the Colorado, but seeing Bob's truck, thought I'd ask you whether you would recommend the 6' bed. I know it's a personal preference, but if you were shopping for one now, would you find the 6' bed preferable.

Thanks.


Our choice of the 5' bed was due to our garage being "length challenged".
We don't have much need for a larger bed anyway so the 5' has worked out with no regrets.
Regarding weight distribution hitch, I haven't seen the need with the moderate weight of the car and trailer.
Cheers
A

[Bobby Doug]

I'm looking for input on my vehicle and trailer towing calculations as I'm narrowing down my vehicle and trailer combination.

I have no need for a full size pick up truck so I am looking at the Chevrolet Colorado 4 door crew cab with 8 speed automatic and full towing package. I'm trading in my late model Subaru Outback so the truck will also be my daily driver. The Colorado has a gvw of 5400 - 6100 lbs.and a towing capacity of about 7000lbs. I am estimating the Cobra weight at around 2300 lbs and the 16 ' aluminum Serpent Express trailer (per their web site) to weigh 1300 lbs.

So, if I estimate another 200 lbs of gear in the trailer, 1600 lb trailer and 2300 Cobra, we're at 4100 lbs. Someone mentioned to me that I probably want to stay within only 80 % of the 7000lbs limit (5600 lbs) to ensure safe drivability. At 4100 lbs, that puts me well under the 5600 lb range. And my trailer and Cobra weigh less than my vehicle.

Did I miss anything?

You forgot to factor in any driver or passengers weight. Also too how far do you plan on towing the trailer, the terrain (hills). Do you plan on keeping the tow vehicle for 50k miles or 100k miles? I looked at the Colorado too and after using the above criteria I went with a 1500 Silverado crewcab. I tend to keep my vehicles for a long time and felt a V8 and trans would be more durable and trouble free. The V6 Colorado is lacking on low end torque. Where I live is pretty flat but where I plan on towing my car and trailer too (LCS) has some good hills to pass through. I plan n ordering my SE In March. Still trying to justify the aluminum option. Just my 2 cents.

[Bob Cowan]

I waited for a long bed to show in my area, and then grabbed it. The bed is a couple of inches longer than the full sized Ram I traded in, but a bit narrower. I like the long bed for the extra cargo capacity, and the ability to carry longer stuff to the track, like the fold up canopy and table. I can also put a set of old and new tires in the back to take to the tire shop to get mounted - since I can't drive the race car to the tire shop. It's also long enough that I can sleep in it when I go camping.

Long bed also means long wheel base. The long wheel base does mean a slightly wider turn radius. But it also means a smoother ride on choppy highways

Remember that these "mid sized" trucks are about the same size as the pick ups used to be when I was younger. Park one of these next to a 70's model Chevy pick up, and you'll see that they're just about the same width and height. Modern pick ups have grown to huge proportions.

I think the tow rating for the V6 2wd is well over 5,000 pounds. For my Z71 4x4 with the diesel engine, the tow rating is about 7,000 pounds. Plenty of margin for what we're talking about. And we're not talking about towing all the time, either. It's a few week ends a year, maybe one or two full weeks a year. With reasonable driving habits and good maintenance, I don't see why the truck wouldn't last 100K miles easy.

I spent the money on a diesel because I live at high altitude. NA engines lose 2-3% of their power per thousand feet of altitude. A turbo maintains nearly all of the power regardless of altitude. When I'm pulling a mountain pass at 10,000', I don't want to be sucking hind end.

I was driving a Ram 2500 with a 5.9l Cummins turbo diesel. I loved that truck. Big and roomy, but tough drive in the city and sometimes tough to park. But after 150,000 miles, things were starting to fall apart. It was either spend a bunch of money to fix it up, or buy something new. So....... Before that, I was towing with a Dodge Dakota, with a 5.9l gas engine. That thing was a pig! Horrible gas mileage, and tough to maintain speed while towing.

[mikeinatlanta]

Sure a lot of assumptions being posted...

To determine max tow you need the following:
Actual weight of your vehicle as equipped, including passengers, cargo, and fuel.
Front axle weight rating
Rear axle weight rating
Max vehicle weight rating.
Max tongue weight rating of you hitch, both with and without weight distribution.
Trailer weight when loaded.

Here is how your run the numbers. Assuming a loaded trailer weight of 7,000lb and you have a 7,000lb tow rating.
10-15% tongue weight. So in this case figure 700-1,000lb tongue weight.

Does this tongue weight exceed rating without weight distribution (answer will be yes in this case)? So weight distribution required.

With passengers, luggage, and anything else in vehicle, what is the remaining payload capacity (GVWR)? Don't forget to add heavier tires, trailer hitch, bed liner, and everything else. Best to roll your loaded vehicle across a scale for a real number. Tongue weight must be equal or less than remaining payload. This single item is the biggest limiting factor for tow.

Once you have loaded up and hooked up, you will want to roll the full rig across the scales to ensure the weight distribution hitch is keeping both axles within max weight rating.

All said and done, tow rating is near impossible to reach without exceeding any passenger or light truck max payload rating, so the inflated factory numbers are meaningless, hence the disclaimer "when properly equipped" you always see. To put it in perspective, I'm about to buy a new pickup. The Colorado had no configuration available that could actually tow my 7,000lb trailer and stay within payload ratings. I had to be very careful selecting options that would allow doing it with an F150.

Option B to all this? Take your chances knowing that should you have an accident, you are almost guaranteed to be overloaded in some way and risking that being factored into liabilities.

EDIT: To the OP. Go to the dealer and look at the actual numbers on the truck with the options you want. You will see the actual payload for it. Subtract the weight of anything you want to add like a weight distribution hitch, gear, luggage, and passengers. This will pretty clearly show how much you can tow.

e.g. Payload 1,500lb. Minus 600lb of passenger, 150lb of weight dist hitch, 200lb of gear and luggage, 150lb of bedliner and fiberglass bed cover. You would now have 400lb of remaining payload capacity for tongue weight. If you pushed to minimum tongue weight of 10% you could safely tow 4,000lb. Truck tow rating of 7,000lb now becomes irrelevant.

[rich grsc]

Seeing as no one said anything about towing a 7000# trailer with a Colorado, wants your point? The question was towing a 4000# Serpent Express trailer.

[mikeinatlanta]

Seeing as no one said anything about towing a 7000# trailer with a Colorado, wants your point? The question was towing a 4000# Serpent Express trailer.

Rich, the 7,000 was an example. Added an edit with a 4,000 example.

[ThickCobra]

Bob,

Great write up of your personal experience and application to your needs. You should write for Dan Neil, the automotive journalist. Most automotive articles are just facts, whereby, you provide perspective.

As mentioned earlier, I have test driven both the Canyon and Colorado as well as the 8 speed 308 hp/275 lb-ft v6 and 6 speed 181 hp/369 lb-ft 2.8 liter Duramax turbo diesel 4. I liked the ride of both and the v6 has very good acceleration. The land is rather flat here in Wisconsin and not too hilly between here and the LCS. but, I do like the pulling capability of the diesel and mpg. I am also looking at the 1300 lb aluminum 16' SE as some wished they had an extra 2' of trailer. Thanks again.

[rich grsc]

Rich, the 7,000 was an example. Added an edit with a 4,000 example.

Sorry, reread what I posted, sounded rude. Didn't mean it to come off that way.

[mikeinatlanta]

Sorry, reread what I posted, sounded rude. Didn't mean it to come off that way.

No worries rich. You are way up on my benefit of the doubt list.

[JKolbfleisch]

I tow w/ a 2007 Grand Cherokee Hemi (7500lbs tow rating). Doesn't even notice the trailer. That said, I built my own "Soft-Top"Enclosure for about $600 on my 16ft trailer. Best decision ever, incredibly durable material and used it to move 500 miles and temporarily store my Roadster for a winter.

[Yama-Bro]

I tow w/ a 2007 Grand Cherokee Hemi (7500lbs tow rating). Doesn't even notice the trailer. That said, I built my own "Soft-Top"Enclosure for about $600 on my 16ft trailer. Best decision ever, incredibly durable material and used it to move 500 miles and temporarily store my Roadster for a winter.

I love this! Very nice!