Papa's MKIV Roadster Build - #9115 (Post Grad) - One million + views!!!

[SelectivePC]

Another go-cart ride today, this time with the new GoPro. Now if I can just get the mount to stay put.

Awesome man, I cant wait to get to the carting portion of my build, Its going to be so sweet.

[Papa]

Here's one more video from today's go-cart sessions. I passed my first car! Well, the car was actually stopped, but I can dream...



I have a couple of things I'm still sorting out before getting the body on the car.

1. The left rear brake is dragging - you can hear it when I'm applying the brakes to stop. I can freely move the car in spite of the noise, so I'm wondering if I just need to bed in the pads and get some wear on them or if I should try to adjust something.

2. My correct headers will be delivered this Thursday and I'll hopefully eliminate the backfires.

3. The front suspension is settling a bit and I've got a noticeable toe-out on the right side. Need to get that back in line.

4. I need to flush and refill the cooling system with clean coolant.

5. I'm running really rich without the O2 sensor in the exhaust and have fouled a couple of plugs already. My remedy for this until the O2 sensor is installed is just to be sure to get the engine to full operating temperature before shutting it off; no quick start-stop cycles.

Other than that, a final check on all the torqued bolts and I think I can get the body on the car. I do want to roll on some bed liner before it goes on. This is getting exciting!

[Higgybulin]

Great videos!! I'm getting excited for you!!
Higgy

[Papa]

Great videos!! I'm getting excited for you!!
Higgy

Thanks, Higgy. It is an exciting time in the build.

[WIS89]

Dave-

Congratulations on the go karting. I am really excited for you, and know you must be stoked! The car looked and sounded good, and looks like she is handling great.

I forgot how pretty it was out there in Parker! It's been a while, but you sure don't forget how nice it is!

I also have a severe case of garage envy. Just thought I would share that...

By the way, you passed that guy like he was standing still. HAHA

Keep up the good work Sir!

Regards,

Steve

[Papa]

Dave-

Congratulations on the go karting. I am really excited for you, and know you must be stoked! The car looked and sounded good, and looks like she is handling great.

I forgot how pretty it was out there in Parker! It's been a while, but you sure don't forget how nice it is!

I also have a severe case of garage envy. Just thought I would share that...

By the way, you passed that guy like he was standing still. HAHA

Keep up the good work Sir!

Regards,

Steve

Steve,

I love the area, especially when everything turns green in the late spring - early summer. This time of year is not so attractive with all the brown; so much for "Colorful Colorado". Thanks for the comments on the garage, too. I'm definitely spoiled with the garage space. The house has about 900 square feet (tandem 4-car), and the shop is 1200 square feet. A second building is definitely popular in the neighborhood. Some of the new homes being built are having them built right along with their homes.

Dave

[Scubasommer]

Not too much exciting to talk about today. I attached the cover on the passenger side F panel.



I also spent some time applying Thermo-Tec to the rest of the cockpit:







As you can see, I didn't take it all the way up on the rear of the cockpit. I'm undecided if I should or not. I still have another roll, so I can add the remaining pieces later. I also still need to do the outside panel on the driver's foot box that is still uninstalled for now.

Applying the mat is tedious, but a tip for those that are thinking about doing the same. As you make templates for each piece (I used paper from the boxes all the parts shipped in), keep in mind that your template for a panel on one side will likely be mirrored on the other. Just flip the template over and use it to do the other side.

Thanks for the GREAT build threads Papa!!!
I at eating this up as my MK 4 is coming in July!
Love the tips and the links!
Congrats on the awesome go cart rides!!

A sincere thank you
Jimmy

[shark92651]

Rear brake hardline is complete! I had to use one union.

Looks great. Could you tell me what is the name of that spiral product on the outside of your lines on the underside of the frame? I assume that is to offer a bit more protection to the Nicopp line. Looks interesting, thanks!

David

[Tex2131]

Hey Dave, where did you find rubber grommets for your brake reservoir lines going thru the front drivers side wall? I'm having a hard time finding ones that will cover the thickness of the wall. Thanks, Don.

[Papa]

Looks great. Could you tell me what is the name of that spiral product on the outside of your lines on the underside of the frame? I assume that is to offer a bit more protection to the Nicopp line. Looks interesting, thanks!

David

David,

The product you are looking for is called gravel guard. You can find it in various lengths (I used 8') on Amazon for very reasonable prices.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...6+gravel+guard

Dave

[Papa]

Hey Dave, where did you find rubber grommets for your brake reservoir lines going thru the front drivers side wall? I'm having a hard time finding ones that will cover the thickness of the wall. Thanks, Don.

I got the grommets from McMaster-Carr. They have pretty much any size you could want.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9307k887/=1bsw0a6

Dave

[Tex2131]

[QUTE=Papa;315613]I got the grommets from McMaster-Carr. They have pretty much any size you could want.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9307k887/=1bsw0a6

Dave[/QUOTE]

Thanks Dave. You are my hero, I'm following your build closely and it's given me some great advice, hints, and inspiration.

[Papa]

[QUTE=Papa;315613]I got the grommets from McMaster-Carr. They have pretty much any size you could want.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9307k887/=1bsw0a6

Dave

Thanks Dave. You are my hero, I'm following your build closely and it's given me some great advice, hints, and inspiration.

No problem - happy to help.

Dave

[Papa]

Today I was able to do the coupler nuts on the rear for the body mounts. Starting with some 7/16-14 threaded rod, nylock nuts, washers, and coupler nuts:



I cut the rod into short lengths that would accommodate the nut without a lot of the rod extending past the end and filling about 1/2 of the coupler nut on the other side. I protected the threads and used vice grips and then threaded on the nylock nut from the back side (not much space in there between the frame and the tank.





Finally, I threaded on the coupler nut.



This whole task would have been easier to do before the fuel tank was installed.

I also got a call on Friday from my upholsterer letting me know my trans tunnel is done. I'll be picking it up this week and will post pictures when I do.

[TexasAviator]

can't wait to see the trans tunnel. Nice work and quick at that!

[Papa]

can't wait to see the trans tunnel. Nice work and quick at that!

Thanks, Brandon. I hope to pick it up tomorrow or Wednesday. Congratulations on the first start!

Dave

[Papa]

I picked up my transmission tunnel cover today. It looks pretty good!

[TexasAviator]

nicely done

[SirSmartyPants]

I've been lurking here for a little while, and just wanted to say that I'm really enjoying your build thread. When I build my Roadster (some day!) I plan to use the same engine, so all the detail you've provided has been fantastic. The car is looking great!

~ Ron

[Yama-Bro]

That looks great Papa. All the small details are really paying off.

[BluePrintEngines]

Enjoying the videos PAPA! Can't wait to hear that thing opened up a little more!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Papa]

nicely done

I've been lurking here for a little while, and just wanted to say that I'm really enjoying your build thread. When I build my Roadster (some day!) I plan to use the same engine, so all the detail you've provided has been fantastic. The car is looking great!

~ Ron

That looks great Papa. All the small details are really paying off.

Enjoying the videos PAPA! Can't wait to hear that thing opened up a little more!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks fellas! I'm still having fun with the build, but my first couple of tastes of driving the car have me getting excited about getting it finished and on the road. The engine feels so strong yet very streetable. The handling even without a good alignment is amazing and the power steering feels just right.

Dave

[Tex2131]

Aw man.....you've done it again with the upholstered tunnel. More $$$ coming out of my pocket. By the way, I couldn't help but take a small shot at you today. See "This is starting to get serious" posted in the roadster forum today.

[Papa]

Aw man.....you've done it again with the upholstered tunnel. More $$$ coming out of my pocket. By the way, I couldn't help but take a small shot at you today. See "This is starting to get serious" posted in the roadster forum today.

Ha! I've spent more than enough of my money, so I'm happy to help others spend theirs! Awesome engine! By the way, it only cost me $135.00 to have the tunnel cover done.

[Papa]

I installed the seat heater switches into the newly upholstered tunnel cover.





Now off to the garage to run the rest of the wiring.

[Papa]

Before I start making holes to run the seat heater wires into the trans tunnel, I need to have a good idea where my seats are going to sit with the Breeze seat bracket set. So, I fit the bracket to the seat frame and then primed the metal. Once the primer is completely set, I'll paint them with a satin black enamel. I really like the concept of the Breeze seat mounting system. You get a solid mount without drilling huge holes into the floor of the car. You also get a bit of recline and adjustability of about three inches front to back. It also makes mounting the seat pretty simple with the bolts going through the top of the frame into the mounting system.





I'm not going to mount the bracket to the floor until after the body is on, but with the seat in its approximate location I can drill into the tunnel for the seat heater wires. For those that have used this system, how did you carpet the floor? I'm thinking of carpeting around the mounting plate rather than under it. I'd appreciate any thoughts on the best approach.

Finally, I did a little non-automotive electrical work in the shop today. I converted my 70 watt CFL (G24Q-6) base high-bay fixtures over to E26 base 40 watt (280 watt equivalent) LED bulbs.

[David Hodgkins]

I picked up my transmission tunnel cover today. It looks pretty good!

Not just pretty good, that looks GREAT!

[Scubasommer]

Thank you all for the kind words of encouragement! So, to catch this new thread up, I received my rear axle and Wilwood brakes a couple of weeks ago. I installed the brakes on the axle and replaced the chrome diff cover with the cast cover.





I also had my grandson "help" me. He installed a lug nut for me and was so proud of himself!



Last Saturday, the bulk of the kit arrived and my wife and I spent about six hours doing inventory. I found a few missing items and e-mailed Courtnie. She was right on getting the parts ordered for me. I also have several back ordered parts that should hopefully start arriving soon. Today, I got a shipping notification for two boxes coming from FFR.

Papa
In your first post you stated “My car will use a Moser 8.8 3-link rear axle with Wilwood brake upgrade front and back.”
Did you upgrade the brakes through Factory Five and what did you upgrade them to????
I purposely delayed my kit order a couple months cause I was undecided on a few things ( this being one).

Thanks and have a great day
Jimmy

[Papa]

Papa
In your first post you stated “My car will use a Moser 8.8 3-link rear axle with Wilwood brake upgrade front and back.”
Did you upgrade the brakes through Factory Five and what did you upgrade them to????
I purposely delayed my kit order a couple months cause I was undecided on a few things ( this being one).

Thanks and have a great day
Jimmy

Jimmy,

The kit comes with brakes for the front axel, but not the rear. I wanted Wilwood brakes, so the upgrade was for the front (eliminates the standard and delivers the Wilwood), and then a matching set for the rear. I ordered them with my kit from FFR. All you have to do is select the color of caliper you want (red or black) and then pick the type of rear axle you have. If you want black calipers and have a solid rear axle, check the following:



Note that the Wilwood brakes on the FFR configurator are designed to work with 17" or 18" wheels only. If you plan to run a more vintage 15" wheel and want Wilwood brakes, contact Gordon Levy for options.

Dave

[Papa]

Today I finished painting the Breeze seat mounts.



I then started running wires for the heaters. I'm using the heater wire from the RF harness as the power source. That feeds two fuses (one for each seat) that then feed the switches. I'm running the power and ground wires in some 1/4" split sleeve and routed the wires along the floor and then up behind the dash. I still need to drill a hole on each side of the trans tunnel to run the heater harness to the switch plugs.





After test fitting the trans tunnel cover, I'm seriously considering attaching it with heavy duty Velcro (3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB3550) rather than the screws along the sides that I was originally going to do.

[Papa]

The body went back on today for the first time since the car was delivered last June. Overall, it fit's pretty good. I'll have some additional trimming to do in a couple of spots.

[rrrose]

Hi Dave
Your workmanship is great and the car reflects it. Its getting closer and closer to me seeing you driving it around town

Ron

[BB767]

Here's one more video from today's go-cart sessions. I passed my first car! Well, the car was actually stopped, but I can dream...



I have a couple of things I'm still sorting out before getting the body on the car.

1. The left rear brake is dragging - you can hear it when I'm applying the brakes to stop. I can freely move the car in spite of the noise, so I'm wondering if I just need to bed in the pads and get some wear on them or if I should try to adjust something.

2. My correct headers will be delivered this Thursday and I'll hopefully eliminate the backfires.

3. The front suspension is settling a bit and I've got a noticeable toe-out on the right side. Need to get that back in line.

4. I need to flush and refill the cooling system with clean coolant.

5. I'm running really rich without the O2 sensor in the exhaust and have fouled a couple of plugs already. My remedy for this until the O2 sensor is installed is just to be sure to get the engine to full operating temperature before shutting it off; no quick start-stop cycles.

Other than that, a final check on all the torqued bolts and I think I can get the body on the car. I do want to roll on some bed liner before it goes on. This is getting exciting!

Hi Dave,

Did you ever get an answer about your dragging brake? I have the exact same symptoms on my right rear. I remember it was very tight on the install. Thinking it will wear in but it would be nice to hear what others have done.

Brien

[Papa]

Hi Dave,

Did you ever get an answer about your dragging brake? I have the exact same symptoms on my right rear. I remember it was very tight on the install. Thinking it will wear in but it would be nice to hear what others have done.

Brien

Brien,

I can rotate the wheels by hand with no problem, so I think I may just need to wear in the pads. For now I'm not going to do anything.

Dave

[Papa]

Hi Dave
Your workmanship is great and the car reflects it. Its getting closer and closer to me seeing you driving it around town

Ron

Thanks, Ron. I appreciate the kind words.

Dave

[broku518]

Hi Dave,

I just installed the body today. Not really sure what to look for or do next. I agree, overall the body fits very good.
Please share some hints/tips. Much appreciated!

Martin

[Papa]

Hi Dave,

I just installed the body today. Not really sure what to look for or do next. I agree, overall the body fits very good.
Please share some hints/tips. Much appreciated!

Martin

Martin,

I'm paying close attention to the "Jeffs" on the body fitment advice.

Link to my initial fitting questions thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ting-Questions

The following was taken from another thread:

I don't use the inside spacer tubes and let the trunk lid dictate the final rear distance as one of the last positioning adjustments. Here's my order---

Drop the body over the chassis and send it forward so that the body's door flange is just ahead of the chassis' striker tab as seen here:

body_fit.jpg

If you haven't trimmed back the underside return of the cowl roll you may find that it hits the dash and won't let you get that far forward without doing so.

Once the body is draped on I run lengths of all thread through the body and into the couplers at the rear. These are not tightened yet; they are just holding the tail up.

I then move on to the front to install the QJ bolts and spacers and button them down to locate the nose (makes no difference whether you're using the early split type or the full length tubes).

Next is the windshield and front splash panels.

Now comes the fun part...the doors. Notice that I have not mentioned anything about locking down the body on the underside along the rocker panels. This is where lots of give & take comes into play because you are trying to strike a balance at 4 different places; the upper front of the door where it meets the cowl, the upper rear where it meets the rear cockpit opening, plus the lower front and lower rear. To further complicate things we're dealing with both horizontal as well as vertical interfaces along the upper part of the doors. Adjusting for one invariably affects at least one other. And people wonder why body men drink I've had the best luck adjusting for the door tops first. While dealing with the top area of the doors do not completely ignore the lower door edge's intersection with the main body but keep in mind that the lower body can be moved in/out independently with little to no effect to the upper cockpit openings. On both Mk3s and Mk4s I've found that the passenger door has been easier than the driver's side; once the adjustments were made to get the tops in order it just took a bit of outward movement to the lower body to have it meet the bottom edge of the door. On the other hand with the drivers side once the tops were fitting the bodies had to go in at the lower front corner of the doors and move out a great deal at the rear. I've found that these cars and bodies are quite consistent and one of those constants is that you'll need to push the rocker panel in as far as possible in front of the driver's door and pull it out at the rear. I can assure you that you aren't going to get all 4 corners to meet perfectly but your goal is to get them as close as possible so that they operate without interference and to minimize the bodywork necessary to match contours between the main body and moveable panels.

Once you've accomplished that you lock down the body along the rocker panels and move on to the hood and trunk lid. The Mk4 trunk hinges allow movement in all axis so it's pretty straightforward to get it adjusted on the top and by using the coupler method for the bumper/QJ attachments along with nuts rather than spacers on the backside of the body you can move the valance in or out as necessary to match the bottom edge of the lid by adjusting the nuts on the inside in conjunction with spacer tubes outside. You may find that you need to trim back the rearmost lip of the trunk floor aluminum, and perhaps also the vertical edge of the trunk side aluminum to allow the valance to pull inward to meet the lid. For the hood I leave the hinges just loose enough to allow them to move somewhat freely then close and position it in the hole and get underneath and tighten the nuts.

That's what works for me---your mileage may vary

Jeff

I hope to pull mine back off and start making the first adjustments over the next week or so.

Dave

[cv2065]

You are at this point with 9 months under your build? Great job Papa! I hope to be as expedient and detailed as you are with my build. I'll use yours as a reference staple. Thanks for the detailed thread!

[Papa]

You are at this point with 9 months under your build? Great job Papa! I hope to be as expedient and detailed as you are with my build. I'll use yours as a reference staple. Thanks for the detailed thread!

Thank you. No need to rush through the build as it is probably the best part of the FFR experience. I originally assumed that it would take me two years to build the car, but even as a complete novice, with the help of this forum I've cruised right along. As the end of the year approached, I set a goal to get to first start before the year ended. That artificial goal put a lot of stress on getting it done and after that I decided that I wouldn't set any artificial deadlines. My issue now is that my painter is waiting and has room to do my car and I'm not ready to give it to him. So, if I miss his window, I'll drive it in gel coat until he slows down again.

Dave

[Papa]

Today was spent working on several odds and ends. I completed running the seat heater plugs into the tunnel to connect to the switches.



Next I positioned my Breeze seat mounts and fastened them to the floor.



I settled on using the heavy duty 3M stuff to attach my tunnel cover. It works perfectly!





I did some marking for the body adjustments that I'll be making. I ran a strip of 1/2" tape as a guide and later ran a marker flat against the dash to scribe a line that is a bit more contoured to the dash. I don't want to remove too much material and it's a lot easier to remove it than to add it back.



I took a look at the body at the door striker tabs. I was able to adjust the passenger side to get the body just ahead of the striker tab. but not the driver's side.



Finally, I set the seats in place to see how it all looked.