Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: 5,000 Mile Report

[edwardb]

Lots going on. But the main thing is last night I finally finished the fuel and brake lines. I’ll go through that in some detail and then a few other happenings. I started using rigid stainless tubing for fuel and brake lines on my second build. I really like the final result and find the process interesting and challenging. Is it necessary or required? No. But once done should be bulletproof and last the life of the car. Plus I think it looks cool. So the Coupe gets the same treatment. Even though this is my third time, I’m far from an expert. There’s enough time between each that it takes a little practice to get back into the swing of it. I wouldn’t say using SS is hard, but it’s definitely a little tedious and takes the right material, tools and process.

The way I do it takes an especially long time (and some would say is totally redundant…) because I don’t trust myself to bend the SS tubing until I’ve made patterns that are confirmed to fit. It’s not forgiving. Once you make a bend, it’s pretty hard to go back. So I use the supplied steel brake lines to make patterns for the SS brake lines. Then I use a piece of 3/8-inch soft copper tubing from Home Depot to make patterns for the 3/8-inch SS supply and return fuel lines. Both materials allow multiple do-overs and fine tuning. When good, duplicate in SS and install. Works well and every piece went in OK. But it does take some time.

The other challenge with SS tubing is doing the usual double flares. I buy my SS tubing from InLine Tube, a well known on-line supplier of brake and fuel tubing, parts, etc. They’re local for me, so I’m able to pick it up at their place in straight pieces. Nice. No coils to straighten. The material is the proper annealed SS. But you still have to be very careful and have an exact process to make the flares. I used the Eastwood Professional flare tool, which is awesome. It makes flares in other materials like butter. But for SS, if everything isn’t just right the flare can crack. When it does, 99% of the time on the second step, and 99% of the time my own fault because I pulled too hard. You have to use a light touch on the second step and they come out perfect every time. I check them under low magnification just to be sure. I practiced a lot with scrap material and developed a pretty predicable process. Most of the time…

The brake lines are all the usual routings with SS fittings and double flares at each connection. For the fuel lines, I’m using 3/8-inch SS for both supply and return. Did the same after a lot of research on the 20th Anniversary Roadster Coyote build, and it works well. Rather than trying to flair the 3/8-inch tubing and come up with the right adapters for -6AN flex at each end, I use a very cool compression fitting. There are a couple brands. The one I use is a Ham-Let SS 316 Let-Lok Compression Fitting, Adapter, 3/8" Tube OD x 37 Degree Flare. Breeze has them and that’s where I normally get them. I’ve also found them on eBay and Amazon on occasion. I believe Forte also sells them. These are a one-time installation on the end of the tubing and are bullet proof. As I recall they’re rated for something over 1,000 PSI. So I think they’ll hold up to the fuel line pressure. Once installed, a standard -6AN fitting goes right on. Perfect.

Lots of discussion on the forum lately about regulators with the Coyote setup, and specifically using a fixed regulator by the tank versus the usual Aeromotive adjustable regulator in the engine compartment. Definitely some simplicity and cost advantage for the fixed regulator approach. The regulator is cheaper and only a single line is required to the engine compartment. For this build I chose to (again) duplicate what I did with #8674 with the adjustable regulator in the engine compartment and two lines. Note also for the Coupe it’s necessary to run the fuel and brake lines through the transmission tunnel. With the frame design, it’s not possible to run them outside the tunnel like with the Roadster. If you did, the lines would be the lowest point on the bottom where they had to get by chassis rails. Not acceptable obviously. I installed all three lines in the top DS corner of the tunnel, staying as far away from moving parts (e.g. the driveshaft) as physically possible.

With that said, here are a bunch of pictures. First brake lines, then fuel. For the pedal box, I chose to replace the kit supplied right angle fittings out of the Wilwood MC’s with Wilwood 220-0628 straight fittings. This made the tubing bends a little more to my liking, plus eliminates the issue (for me anyway…) of getting the position of the angled fittings correct without stripping something out. Ask me how I know about that. First picture is the front and rear brake line connections at the pedal box. The front circuit comes out the top corner of the footbox. The rear circuit follows the path shown in the manual over to the corner of the footbox, down a diagonal rail, and then through the transmission tunnel to the back.



For the front, along the top rail of the chassis and turned down to the DS wheel. Not visible in the picture, but where it exits the footbox, I put a 1-inch long double layer of dual wall shrink sleeving. Did the same thing for the rear line where it exits the footbox. Will act like a grommet next to the aluminum panel.



Just like Mike Everson did on his build (thanks Mike!) I found the routing for the front lines at the wheels worked best on the back of the frame rails in that area. So cut semi-circles in the aluminum panels and mounted them as shown here. The DS has the tee connection to go to the PS. I ran the crossover on the top of the frame rail across.



Then back up on the other side. For these visible mounting clamps, I used the same ALL18320 Allstar Performance clamps with 10-32 screws and tapped holes as on previous builds. I just think they look better. All the rest (through the tunnel, in the back, etc.) are normal cushioned clamps.



This is the outside of the PS showing the attachment and flex line to the brake caliper. Same on both sides. For all the attachments to the frame like this plus the cushioned clamps I used 3/16-inch steel Q-rivets. From McMaster-Carr (where else?) but are available elsewhere. They’re many time stronger than the usual aluminum pop rivet and set really nice. They are a little tough to pull by hand though. I used my pneumatic riveter wherever possible.



For the rear circuit, as already mentioned, leaves the MC and goes down the diagonal tube where it exits the footbox. This isn’t the best picture, but this is the exact routing FF shows in the manual and their pictures are better than this. Note also this is the same exit point I'm planning for the rear harness and hydraulic line to the clutch.



From there, it goes down the top corner of the tunnel, and up to a tee between the rear wheels.

[edwardb]

Then to the flex attachment points.



That’s it for brakes. For the fuel lines, I’m planning to put the adjustable regulator on the angled firewall area on the DS. So routed the lines accordingly. Here’s where they come into the engine compartment. There will be SS flex with -6AN fittings to the regulator from here. Same as at the fuel tank.



Then through the tunnel to the back. I had to take a jog around the T-56 shifter.



Then out the back and turned to the Trick Flow TFS-23006 fuel filter I’m using. Same (again…) as #8674.



Now that I have the lines installed, I can make up the flex lines to the Pro-M Racing fuel pump hangar. Already mentioned that in a previous post. Has true 3/8-inch in and out and pre-installed -AN6 connections. Perfect. The rear harness is just laying there right now. Next up is get the locations finalized and I’ll install with some padded clamps. Here’s an overall view. Feels good to get this part done.



So on to a few other points. Several have asked about the tools I use for brake and fuel lines. Based on multiple recommendations on this forum, picked up the Eastwood Professional Flaring tool during my first build. Not cheap, but they’re regularly on sale. I highly recommend. The quality of the flares are as good as any factory ones. Often better actually. Just need to practice on SS to get the right pressure mainly for the second step.



For bending tools, I started out with an Eastwood triple head bender on my first build. I didn’t feel like it worked all that well, especially for SS. The handles are pretty short, so for 3/8 SS was literally almost more than I could do to bend. I’ve since settled on these three dedicated size benders. All work very well. Ridgid provides decent benders that are better IMO than the average run-of-the-mill benders. Not Swagelok quality, but a fraction of the cost. I use a Ridgid 36097 3/8-inch, Ridgid 36117 3/16-inch, and a smaller 3/16-inch bender from InLine Tube. It does an even tighter radius when that's needed. All highly recommended. Here are pics of each and the bends they make in SS.

[edwardb]

Next up I’ll be working on the rear wiring harness and get it installed. I mentioned before that I added wires for the T-56 reverse solenoid and back-up lights. I ordered the required connectors to be added to the harness. Just a quick word on the T-56 reverse solenoid. This is something I haven’t seen before on the T-5 or TKO’s. Tremec added a solenoid to the T-56 that needs to be energized to open the gate and allow reverse to be selected. It’s a nice feature. I’m sure I’m not the only one who’s bumped up against reverse while driving and gotten that awful grinding sound. OK, maybe I am the only one… I tested the T-56 solenoid the other day with my Power Probe and it works exactly as advertised. With power to the solenoid, makes a healthy click and the shifter slides easily over into the reverse gate. Without, it’s a hard springy stop. I’ve done some research and found several approaches for this. Some live with it and just jam it in. It is possible. Some disable the function by cutting down the spring. Tremec strongly recommends against both of these approaches. Says it adds undo wear and possibility for breakage. Some add a switch to the brake pedal and energize when the brake is pushed down. That’s OK I guess but could open reverse during regular driving while braking and shifting. Others add a switch to push for reverse. It would be cool to wire something like that into a T-handle reverse lockout on the shifter like back in the day. But don’t see any easy way to do that without some fabrication. The other way, which is what I suspect is the case for Vipers and older Vettes where this transmission was used, is to have an electronic module that senses speed and turns the solenoid on and off. There are several available and that’s what I’m planning. Ties into the speed sensor. So when stopped the solenoid is energized, then released when the car is in motion. I like it.



Another detail I’ve decided about is the brake/clutch reservoirs. I’ve used CNC reservoirs on all builds to date and like them a lot. Durable, functional, and look good. I want to put the reservoirs in front of the DS footbox, instead of on the firewall like some have done on Coupe builds. I want to save that space, plus in front of the footbox makes the supply hoses short and direct. I'm going to route them through the unused clutch cable hole. Unfortunately, the CNC piece is just too tight there. So I’ve decided to use the Tilton 72-576 triple reservoir and just received it the other day. It’s plastic, so not as shiny as the CNC piece. But like other Tilton products, seems very high quality. I use and really like the CNC pressure cap method for brake bleeding. Found that Tilton offered just the cap, so picked up one of those. I’ll drill a hole in the top and add a Schrader valve and duplicate with the Tilton setup. The tape labels are just temporary. I need all the help I can get so do that kind of thing often.



Took my first batch of parts for powder coat last week. Should have those back pretty soon. Mainly just all the steel parts (hinges, brackets, etc.) plus the radiator tunnel and shroud. All those parts I’m doing in gloss black like the rest of the chassis. I’m thinking right now all the aluminum panels will be the silver/glimmer color like on #8674. Really like the color. Last week I ordered the Boig Motorsports upper and lower cool tubes for the Gen 3 Coupe / Coyote. They arrived a few days later and look really good. Bob is a pleasure to work with. It will be some months before I actually install them. But a nice upgrade over the standard parts plus addresses that difficult and very narrow transition at the lower radiator hose connection. My A/C system just shipped from Factory Five. Will be my first time for that kind of thing so looking forward to digging into that.

Finally, this coming weekend is the Detroit Autorama. I’ve talked to my friends at Ford Performance and will check out the Gen 3 Coyote in person for the first time. They will have one crate version installed and another on a stand. They’re still saying “summer” for anticipated release. See if I can learn more in person.

[nkw8181]

You are giving me ideas but I don't "plan" on going backwards lol. looking good!!

[edwardb]

I ordered the Factory Five Gen 3 Coupe / Coyote A/C – Heater – Defroster setup a couple weeks ago and today received a quite large 55 pound box. There was a lot of stuff packed inside. Just spent a few hours going through it and familiarizing myself with the parts and instructions and thought I would share because this is pretty new. The list of parts was almost three pages. Felt a little like inventory time at kit receipt. Especially since this is not anything I’ve had experience with. So many of the parts are unfamiliar to me. There’s one minor parts issue that I’m sure will be resolved. Everything was present and account for.

I mentioned this before. Because of the space frame and overall layout of the Gen 3 Coupe, there just isn’t a lot of space for heat and A/C. I had looked at a number of systems on the market, and not one of them would fit. At least not in the traditional locations. The heart of the unit, the evaporator in the cockpit, that Factory Five provided is very compact. Interestingly, it’s a Siroco brand from France. It hangs in the top of the PS footbox. I’ve seen pictures of it installed (thanks Mike, again!) but helps to see it in person. Looks like it will be out of the way and not interfere with the PS seating. The overall system itself is pretty basic. There are two outlets on the evaporator. One is split off to the dash vents. The other to the defroster vents. All run all the time. The controls are temperature, low/medium/high fan, and A/C on/off. So not exactly multi-zone automatic climate control (!!!) but pretty much what I expected and should do the job. We've never had anything but heated seats in our open top Roadsters. So a roof with heat, A/C plus heated seats will be a pretty big change.

I’m impressed with everything I received. The compressor is an actual Ford OE part and made to bolt onto the PS bottom front of the Coyote. The kit includes the mounting bolts, drive belt, etc. (Note there's still room for the KRC power steering setup above it.) Many of the parts (fittings, hoses, bulkhead plates, etc.) are Vintage Air parts. The drier, condenser and several others are Omega brand. The kit includes the proper constant flow heater control valve, a trinary switch, a nice panel with knobs and a lighted switch for the A/C, all the ducting, registers, mounting brackets, wiring, etc. The instructions, available on FF’s website, are 109 pages long (!) and are very thorough. I put some power to the fan terminals and it’s alive. Overall, I’m impressed. I won’t be installing too much for a while. But with all the parts on hand will be available for mockup as I’m working on wiring, aluminum panels, etc. The front outside corner of the PS footbox needs an access panel added.

I will need to get an A/C hose crimper as there are a number of connections to complete. Factory Five recommends the Mastercool 71550. Or maybe take them to a shop and have them done. We'll see. Here are a few pics.











We’re doing a winter storm warning today in SE Michigan, with 5-9 inches of snow predicted. There’s been a bunch already. Heavy wet snow that's weighing down all the trees. It was almost 60 degrees yesterday. Crazy. Supposed to warm back up tomorrow and through the weekend. Won’t be slowing me down getting to Autorama on Saturday. I’ll post some pictures of the Gen 3 Coyote afterwards.

[Dlirium]

I ordered the Factory Five Gen 3 Coupe / Coyote A/C – Heater – Defroster...

...a nice panel with knobs and a lighted switch for the A/C...

...Won’t be slowing me down getting to Autorama on Saturday. I’ll post some pictures of the Gen 3 Coyote afterwards.

Thanks as always! I find the A/C control panel, ummmm, unattractive. I've been trying to come up with a "hidden" design - behind some sort of door where it is accessible but out of site. I figured I could put the USB and Power ports and maybe the seat heater controls back there as well. Have you thought of where this panel might go on your build?

Also, have a great time at Autorama - i know there are a bunch of us waiting for the full Gen 3 Coyote report!!

-brent

[edwardb]

Thanks as always! I find the A/C control panel, ummmm, unattractive. I've been trying to come up with a "hidden" design - behind some sort of door where it is accessible but out of site. I figured I could put the USB and Power ports and maybe the seat heater controls back there as well. Have you thought of where this panel might go on your build?

Also, have a great time at Autorama - i know there are a bunch of us waiting for the full Gen 3 Coyote report!!

-brent

Yea, I'm not planning to use the panel as is either. I'm still working on what I'm going to do. But it will somehow be integrated into an overall design. I'm not going to just stick it on the dash as is. Probably along with other controls below the dash center.

[nkw8181]

I didn't end up using this but still a cool option.

www.frontpanelexpress.com

[edwardb]

I didn't end up using this but still a cool option.

www.frontpanelexpress.com

Interesting. I have a local source for custom front panels that are specifically automotive. One of the options I'm considering for a small panel below the dash. But not even close to a final decision yet.

[edwardb]

Today I attended the 2018 Detroit Autorama at Cobo Center in downtown Detroit. Walked the entire show upper show floor and as usual lots of amazing builds. I heard from someone the number of cars was down slightly this year. But hard to tell for sure. It was pretty packed and generally the aisles were wall-to-wall people. The car hobby seems to be going quite strong. Several Cobras of various brands including FF and also several Daytonas. The hand built sports class (what I’ve been entered in the three times I exhibited) had a number of nice entries. So it will be competitive. There were massive lines waiting to get autographs from WWE wrestler Roman Reigns and Dale Earnhardt Jr. But I avoided those. Besides I didn’t bring a WWE belt or quarter panel for an autograph. (People carried those things in there…). Back on task, one of my big missions for the day was to see the Gen 3 Coyote for the first time and talk to the Ford Performance guys. Probably spent and hour or so doing that.

Here are pictures of the Gen 3 Coyote. First a walkaround. Here’s the front. Don’t notice any differences.



Left side. The hose connection right in the center with the plastic cap is the PCV connection. You can just barely see the fuel supply connection right above it. Also with a plastic cap. In the same general area as the previous versions.



Rear. Don’t note any differences here either. CMCV vacuum motors as before.



Right side showing the new Direct Injection (DI) pump and plumbing. Looks like because of space the Coil on Plug for #3 was reconfigured. The DI pump body plus the connector are the interference concerns. More on that later.



Another angle of the right side.



And then there’s the famous new cover.



Doesn’t look too great from that angle. It was up pretty high. Looks a little better in the Mustang mule that has the prototype Gen 3 crate installed.



Not much to say about the cover at this time. There are no coil covers for the new version. Too much going on so they just made the top cover wider. JLT Performance has shown some pictures of the new cover with custom paint. Doesn’t look too bad. The cover is basically the same width as the distance between the upper frame rails of the Gen 3 Coupe. Although it would sit above the rails. So clearance isn’t an issue. Jury is still out on this one.

[edwardb]

So no red flags at this time except the same question as before, which is will the DI pump and related clear the Gen 3 Coupe upper frame rails? I have a Gen 2 Coyote block installed in the Coupe now as reported earlier. This helps a little but still isn’t too conclusive. The block alone looks kind of lost in the engine compartment. So gives the appearance of lots of room. But the Coyote heads are so big, it fills it to the top and then some. After looking at the completed Gen 3 Coyote, tried to come up with a way to measure where the DI pump falls. Best I could come up with was sighting from the back of the engine, the pump and connector are just under 14 inches above the top RH bell housing bolt. As in this pic. Note you can’t see the the pump in this picture. It’s eyeballed to the end of the tape measure as best I can tell.



Taking this dimension to the installed block in my Gen 3 build, 14 inches is exactly the available space. So as was mentioned before, it appears to be very close. But what isn't easy to tell is whether the actual potential interference would be above the frame rails, and then there wouldn’t be any interference. Or maybe there's just no interference at all. This picture is maybe the most enlightening, and gives me hope it might fit. This is looking straight down the right side from the front. Note how the pump and connector do not extend past a vertical line on the outer edge of the engine.



Looking at this picture from Mike Everson’s build of an installed Coyote in a Gen 3 Coupe, seems like it would clear. Note the aluminum cover on top is sitting loosely off to one side. Look at the frame rail itself.



So that’s what I have to report. I’m very interested in what others may observe from these pictures. Especially interested in some real world feedback of how much clearance there is to the RH side of the Coyote in their Gen 3 build. Also, the Ford Performance guys are still saying “summer” for the release. They said everything is done except final changes to the PCM. Also checked and they said everything is exactly the same as the Gen 2 as far as installation. Same cable layout, PDB, fuel setup, etc.

Bonus picture time. If the Gen 3 Coyote won’t fit, there’s always something like this as a plan B. If it fits in a Mustang, should fit in our builds. Saw this on display today and takes the award for the most outrageous setup at the show. Plus they got the color right.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'm sure that must be the same display engine we were looking at in December at PRI. Opinions of the batwing cover seem to be nearly unanimous. Have you happened to check with Jesper to see if he got the CAD files and modeled it in the chassis yet?

On another topic look what got left in my driveway this afternoon:



Can I keep it As I walked by it a few minutes ago it had me wondering---will the Coupe fit in the 14 foot version?

Jeff

[edwardb]

I'm sure that must be the same display engine we were looking at in December at PRI. Opinions of the batwing cover seem to be nearly unanimous. Have you happened to check with Jesper to see if he got the CAD files and modeled it in the chassis yet?

On another topic look what got left in my driveway this afternoon. Can I keep it As I walked by it a few minutes ago it had me wondering---will the Coupe fit in the 14 foot version?

Jeff

Hey Jeff. Yes, Ford told me that's the same engine and Mustang they had at PRI. No, I haven't checked with Jesper yet. Need to do that. Hoping it would be obvious with a physical check. But still some doubt... Glad to see Jim made it safely. I'm not expecting the Coupe to fit into the 14 foot trailer. Not and get the rear door closed. We'll see down the road a bit. But no, you can't keep it.

[shark92651]

So no red flags at this time except the same question as before, which is will the DI pump and related clear the Gen 3 Coupe upper frame rails? I have a Gen 2 Coyote block installed in the Coupe now as reported earlier. This helps a little but still isn’t too conclusive. The block alone looks kind of lost in the engine compartment. So gives the appearance of lots of room. But the Coyote heads are so big, it fills it to the top and then some. After looking at the completed Gen 3 Coyote, tried to come up with a way to measure where the DI pump falls. Best I could come up with was sighting from the back of the engine, the pump and connector are just under 14 inches above the top LH bell housing bolt. As in this pic. Note you can’t see the the pump in this picture. It’s eyeballed to the end of the tape measure as best I can tell.

Taking this dimension to the installed block in my Gen 3 build, 14 inches is exactly the available space. So as was mentioned before, it appears to be very close. But what isn't easy to tell is whether the actual potential interference would be above the frame rails, and then there wouldn’t be any interference. Or maybe there's just no interference at all. This picture is maybe the most enlightening, and gives me hope it might fit. This is looking straight down the right side from the front. Note how the pump and connector do not extend past a vertical line on the outer edge of the engine.

Looking at this picture from Mike Everson’s build of an installed Coyote in a Gen 3 Coupe, seems like it would clear. Note the aluminum cover on top is sitting loosely off to one side. Look at the frame rail itself.

So that’s what I have to report. I’m very interested it what others may observe from these pictures. Especially interested in some real world feedback of how much clearance there is to the RH side of the Coyote in their Gen 3 build. Also, the Ford Performance guys are still say “summer” for the release. They said everything is done except final changes to the PCM. Also checked and they said everything is exactly the same as the Gen 2 as far as installation. Same cable layout, PDB, fuel setup, etc.

It's kind of hard to tell from that photo from Mike's build, a photo taken a bit lower looking down the side of the motor near the rails would help quite a bit. I hope it ultimately works for your coupe build. Looks like fitment in the MK4 may be less of a concern. If anything, looks like a mod to the top of the PS footbox may be all that is required, your thoughts?

[Jeff Kleiner]

...you can't keep it.

If the Coupe doesn't fit we may need to talk...although I can only imagine how much crow I'd have to eat for all the times I've told friends that their roadster should only go on a trailer if it's broken

Jeff

[edwardb]

It's kind of hard to tell from that photo from Mike's build, a photo taken a bit lower looking down the side of the motor near the rails would help quite a bit. I hope it ultimately works for your coupe build. Looks like fitment in the MK4 may be less of a concern. If anything, looks like a mod to the top of the PS footbox may be all that is required, your thoughts?

For what I can tell and have learned, the Gen 3 Coyote would fit into a Roadster with zero mods. The area of concern is well above the PS footbox. All open space there. Just checked #8674 to confirm.

[edwardb]

Well, big news today. After crawling all over the Gen 3 Coyote at Detroit Autorama on Saturday, measuring and studying as best I could, looking at build pictures, etc. came up with a definite maybe that it would fit into the Gen 3 Coupe. To finally try to nail this down, asked Mike Everson for more pictures of his Gen 3 Coupe build with the Coyote already installed. Also sent a note to Jesper at Factory Five to see if they've done any CAD models with the Gen 3 Coyote in the Gen 3 Coupe. I'm two for two with responses. Rather than pictures, Mike and I talked through the possible concern, how it compared to his build, available space, etc. The conclusion was the Gen 3 Coyote should fit. Thanks Mike! Literally while I was talking to Mike, received an email from Jesper also confirming it would fit, and these two awesome CAD renderings. He said it was OK to post them. Thanks Jesper! I added an arrow to the second pic where there was interference concern. Clearly looks OK.

So, the ball is back in Ford's court. Let's get this thing released. Unless availability goes completely south, going to try to make the build happen with this engine.

[David Hodgkins]

Outstanding. I sincerely hope you don't have to wait too long for the new motor to come out. I went through the same thing, but I was waiting for the BOSS 302.



Ford's come a long way in 10 years with their crate motors.



PS: TMI?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Exciting news Paul As you said, now the ball is in Ford's court.

Jeff

[wareaglescott]

Great news Paul. Hopefully Ford will have it released just when you need it.

[Straversi]

Good to see that it will fit. I saw that cover at SEMA and well, you know. But the engine sits so low in the frame it looks like it would be pretty easy to fabricate your own engine surround panels. I'd look at keeping the center section of the Coyote cover and making my own panels to replace those side wings. Maybe buy a bead roller and make some panels with mesh screen, rivets....
Food for thought. I'm sure whatever you do will be great. It might just grow on me after I've seen a few installed.
Keep up the great work.
-Steve

[Clover]

Thanks for your work on determining if the Gen 3 Coyote will fit and all the pictures you all have provided. I am absolutely thinking of putting a Gen 3 Coyote in my coupe and have been looking for some of this information myself. It had been a tough start to the week for me but now everything is looking up. Thanks again.

[edwardb]

Good to see that it will fit. I saw that cover at SEMA and well, you know. But the engine sits so low in the frame it looks like it would be pretty easy to fabricate your own engine surround panels. I'd look at keeping the center section of the Coyote cover and making my own panels to replace those side wings. Maybe buy a bead roller and make some panels with mesh screen, rivets....
Food for thought. I'm sure whatever you do will be great. It might just grow on me after I've seen a few installed.
Keep up the great work.
-Steve

Thanks. Actually, with the Gen 3 Coupe, the Coyote sits up a little more exposed than in the Roadster. Looks like the top cover would sit above the level of the upper frame rails. You're thinking along the same lines as I am though. I don't see using the cover as is. But some type of modified version might.

Thanks for your work on determining if the Gen 3 Coyote will fit and all the pictures you all have provided. I am absolutely thinking of putting a Gen 3 Coyote in my coupe and have been looking for some of this information myself. It had been a tough start to the week for me but now everything is looking up. Thanks again.

You're welcome. Good luck with your upcoming build.

[edwardb]

Relatively minor updates today. Yesterday I finished installation of the A/C – Heat unit in the PS footbox. Needed a couple extra arms to hold it in place while marking the attachment locations. I used a jackstand with a stack of towels for my assistant. First time I’ve used one of those on the inside of a build. The evaporator unit has four designed attachment points with inserts into the case. But for this installation, only one can be used. The FF instructions show using self-tapping screws into the top of the plastic case for two other attachments. My belt and suspenders mindset said change those to two 10-32 machine screws with a washer and locknut inside. Both nuts were accessible through the air outlets. One easy, the other a little harder. But done and solid. I put 10-32 nutserts into the chassis at the attachment points rather than the provided self-tappers. Again, just my thing. I had a suggestion to put the unit in straight versus angled as shown in the instructions. But after mocking it up, didn’t see how that was possible. To get it as high and far back as possible, plus making all the connections accessible, looks to me like it can only go this way. But it’s OK IMO.

The instructions (available on Factory Five’s website) first steps show cutting an access area into the PS footbox. Not a big deal, but I wasn’t looking forward to that necessarily or making a cover. I was pleasantly surprised to find my sheetmetal already had the access cut and the cover made held in place with the usual shipping screws. Just hadn’t noticed that before. Maybe a running change. I didn't order the A/C - Heat option at the same time as my kit. I guess they're now putting the access on all the kits. Nice.

Couple pics of the installed unit. From the cockpit.



Looking down into the footbox.



I’m not going to do anything else with this for now. Need a lot more other assembly to be finished and engine installed before running hoses, wiring, etc. I mentioned before this is a pretty simple setup with two outlets on the inside unit. One going to a pair of dash outlets. The other to the two defroster outlets. I am planning to change that up a little. Instead of pointing the two outside outlets down, I’m going to put them on the face of the dash. Then I’m going to add two additional outlets in the center of the dash. I’ll use Y-connections and add them to the defroster hose. That will add more air directly to the occupants versus having half going against the windshield. If more defroster air is needed, just close one or both of the center dash outlets. Not real high tech, but I think a little more user friendly.

Couple other things I worked on. Since I have a hydraulic clutch, won’t use the clutch cable exit in the DS footbox. So I’m going to use that for the reservoir hoses, which works out well since I’m planning to put the reservoirs in front of the DS footbox. The outlets on the Tilton triple reservoir I’m using are 5/16-inch barb, and the inlets on the Wilwood MC’s are 1/4-inch barb. Could use a reducer, but that’s just more connections. So today I tried fitting the supplied Wilwood 1/4-inch reservoir hose onto the Tilton piece. Took some heat, liquid soap, and healthy persuasion times three. But they’re on and I think it’s going to work fine. I’ll add some clamps and they’ll be good to go. Then made a small aluminum plate with holes for the three hoses with grommets and riveted onto the DS footbox front piece. I’ll have to trim the grommets a little to co-exist in this small area, but this should work. Don’t have the grommets yet. Also haven't mounted the triple reservoir yet. I want to set the tip-up nose in place and confirm the available height. I suspect I have plenty, but don't want to mess it up. While I had the footbox front piece out, also added some clearance for the front brake line that exits below the top frame tube. Then spent 15 minutes trying to figure out how that piece goes back in. It's a bit of a puzzle.



Finished up the rear harness. I installed the pigtails shown previously for the backup lights and reverse lockout solenoid, tested, and then wrapped everything up. Then installed into the chassis. With the fuel and brake lines on the DS of the transmission tunnel, installed it on the PS. Crossed over to the dash area on a diagonal frame piece. Added a hole to the DS sheet metal for it to come through. The same location as the rear brake line leaving the footbox. I’m planning the hydraulic line for the clutch will go through this same spot. I'll add some edge protector on the sheet metal after powder coat.



I’ve finished laying out the trunk storage box and was planning to start working on that today. I was planning to order some aluminum sheet from Aircraft Spruce like I’ve done before. But I was told about a metal supplier, Alro, that has a retail store about 25 minutes away. By all accounts it’s a great source. So I'm going to check it out. But we managed to get another bunch of snow today, so I didn’t go anywhere. Haven’t even cleaned the driveway off yet. Being retired has its privileges. Hopefully will make it out tomorrow and get started on that. Waiting for the call that my first batch of powder coat parts is done. Then will have some more parts to install.

[edwardb]

*** Update: The coupon code has been claimed with a couple backups. Thanks for your interest and following along.

Throwing this out there for those of you following this build. Hopefully it isn't breaking any forum rules. I have an extra 10% off Summit Racing coupon that I picked up during the Detroit Autorama this past Saturday. I have one that I'm going to use to knock some things off my shopping list. But I have a second that I'm 99% sure I won't be able to use because I believe they're one per customer. At least during the time that it's good until 4/8/2018. Plus I won't be buying anything again before then anyway.

I will send to the first PM I receive asking for it. If you include your email address I'll send a picture with the codes, etc. I would really like it to go to someone who has something major to buy. Not save a couple bucks on small stuff. It says engines and transmission excluded, and can't be combined with other offers. But everything else is apparently fair game.

[GoDadGo]

Darn, that would have been useful back in October.
Anyway, I'm still looking, lurking and enjoying watching your car come together.

[edwardb]

Last week I made it to the Alro Metals Outlet not too far from me, as mentioned in my last update. Mission was to get some sheet aluminum for the trunk box I’m adding plus a couple other possible things I’ll be fabricating. It’s a pretty impressive place with a lot to choose from, including a whole bunch of reasonably priced remnants of every shape, size and metal. Unfortunately, they had almost no 6061 .040 sheet aluminum remnants. They offered to cut a piece from a full sheet, but it was 50% more than buying it on-line even with the added shipping. But I looked around and found some 5052. A couple pieces of .040 and a pretty large piece of .063 for a grand total of $31.69. Easily twice as much as needed for the trunk enclosure, so plenty left for other projects. I was planning to make the enclosure out of all .040. But the slightly thicker material on the floor and folding lid on the top is probably a good thing. The guy said I would like how 5052 bends, and in my very basic Harbor Freight brake, he was right. I could definitely tell it’s a little softer than 6061. Almost “gummy” to cut. I'm not going to use it for anything structural (even though it would probably be OK) but it’s fine for this use and the price was certainly right.

This is the box I came up with. Pretty straightforward. Cut, bend, rivet. Repeat until done. It’s 23 inches long, 16 inches wide, and 5-1/2 inches deep, not including the mounting flange around the edges. That’s a couple inches wider than the similar mod installed in #8674. Fits easily into the available space above the tank in the Coupe, and the lid swings without hitting anything.





Since this area is exposed under the rear glass hatch, decided to also make a lid. Borrowed liberally from the pictures on the Dark Water Customs site. I hinged it so that it’s split in the middle. Back half can be opened by itself, or the whole thing flipped over. I’ll have a piece of edged carpet on the lids, attached only to the rear section. Still need to figure out some kind of pull or handle. The stainless piano hinges are from McMaster.





Once it’s time to install, will need to do some final trimming on the box to fit around the chassis tubes in the area and also cut a hole in the existing floor. Some relocate the chassis tubes in the Roadsters with this mod. I’ve done the mod twice on Roadsters and didn’t. They appear to be even more structural on the Gen 3 Coupe, so that isn’t anything I’m remotely considering. I’ve found using the storage area with the cross braces isn’t a big deal. Probably some will notice I didn’t put the fuel gauge sender access panel in the new box. I also won’t have one in the pump area. I don’t find dropping the tank to be a big deal, especially with a lift, so I prefer not to mess around with the access panels. In multiple seasons, have only had to drop the tank once and that was when I upgraded the pump and hanger in #8674. Nothing had actually failed. Probably shouldn’t say that out loud…

Received a few more pieces off my shopping list last week. Picked up the Tilton 60-6104 hydraulic throwout bearing I’m going to use instead of the more traditional TOB and clutch arm setup. Actually they call it a Hydraulic Release Bearing (HRB). Oh good. Another acronym. It appears to be an extremely high quality piece. I’m very impressed. Hope it works as good as it looks. Checked what I could and it appears that it will fit OK. Also picked up a Moroso 63806 coolant expansion tank. Like I did with #8674, planning to plumb the cooling system the same as a Mustang versus using a T-filler and overflow tank. Ford said the plumbing is unchanged on the Gen 3 Coyote, and the Moroso tank is also now advertised for the 2018 Mustang. So should be good to go. I’m not sure where it will be mounted just yet. I’m thinking somewhere in this area. But won’t know until the real engine, intake, etc. is installed. It looks like the intake would still fit behind it, but not sure yet. Will need to figure out some mounting brackets.



Also received the Breeze #35317 Locking Aero Fuel Cap. Another high quality part. I've used this cap on each of my builds and like it a lot. With a little bit of trimming, fits perfectly into the LeMans cap. Seals things up and provides a solid lock. I’ve spent quite a bit of time over the last couple days planning what I want to do with the instrument panel. Starting to get a little more focused I think. Trying to come up with the right layout, switches, etc. that looks decent and belongs together. I’ll have something to share eventually.

This Saturday we’re having a club event (Great Lakes Cobra Club) here at our house. Couple years ago when #8674 was going together, invited everyone over for coffee, donuts, and sharing about the build. It was a lot of fun and had a good turnout. So we’re doing the same with the Coupe build. Looking forward to it. Once that’s done, the back half of the body is coming off and I’ll dig into drilling and fitting aluminum panels. It’s time.

[Truthbetold18]

[QUOTE=edwardb;317071] Borrowed liberally from the pictures on the Dark Water Customs site.

Keepin it real. Nice to see the shout out acknowledgement.

[edwardb]

Borrowed liberally from the pictures on the Dark Water Customs site.

Keepin it real. Nice to see the shout out acknowledgement.

I'm not positive what that's supposed to mean or why you even make a post like that. But based on previous posts from you pretty sure I know.

[shark92651]

[QUOTE=Truthbetold18;317078]

Borrowed liberally from the pictures on the Dark Water Customs site.

Keepin it real. Nice to see the shout out acknowledgement.

Don't you have a bridge to get back under?

[David Hodgkins]

And now, without further interruption, let's get back to our regularly scheduled programming.

[Jkviper]

Paul, thanks for posting all this detail. Great workmanship.

[shark92651]

Picked up the Tilton 60-6104 hydraulic throwout bearing I’m going to use instead of the more traditional TOB and clutch arm setup. Actually they call it a Hydraulic Release Bearing (HRB). Oh good. Another acronym. It appears to be an extremely high quality piece. I’m very impressed. Hope it works as good as it looks. Checked what I could and it appears that it will fit OK.

I'll be interested to see how much effort it takes to get the proper gap between the bearing and the pressure plate fingers. I'm thinking about one of these as well, appears to be a few to choose from, what led you to the Tilton?

[edwardb]

I'll be interested to see how much effort it takes to get the proper gap between the bearing and the pressure plate fingers. I'm thinking about one of these as well, appears to be a few to choose from, what led you to the Tilton?

Just searching and reading other people's experiences, reading reviews, watching videos, etc. Plus it's made for this exact part combination and Tilton has a very good reputation for quality parts. Adjustment looks pretty easy. Matter of measuring and then turning the internal adjustment ring. This video explains it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X2JAoHhy0A. I'm sure there are other brands that would work OK as well. This just happened to be the one I chose.

[shark92651]

For your sheet metal fabrication, which bending brake do you use and what do you cut the sheet with?

[edwardb]

For your sheet metal fabrication, which bending brake do you use and what do you cut the sheet with?

For the brake, I use the 30-inch one from Harbor Freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/30-inc...ake-67240.html. Pretty basic. One of these days I'm going to spring for a real box brake. But this one works OK for thin materials and simple fabrication. For cutting, if it fits, I use my bandsaw with a metal cutting blade. Where it doesn't fit, use a sabre saw with a metal cutting blade. Straighten and clean the edges on the stationery disk sander. Have done dozens of aluminum parts this way.

[Wilder]

My Birth Date is 3/24/18. So Ive been re-reading every word Paul wrote. Sleepless nights of did I pick the right options and can I still make changes.
My question is when do you send your car out for Paint?
The painter who did my 55 Chevy did great job but doesn't understand the mean schedule. Can I just get the body painted and ready to put on or is there a reason not to do that?

[Jeff Kleiner]

...Can I just get the body painted and ready to put on or is there a reason not to do that?

You don't just remove the body and paint it. There is certain amount fitting, shaping and gapping that has to be done on the chassis. Every car I do gets fully and completely mocked up before being disassembled again so I can paint it.

Jeff

[M3ichael]

And then there’s the famous new cover.



Doesn’t look too great from that angle. It was up pretty high. Looks a little better in the Mustang mule that has the prototype Gen 3 crate installed.

It's like a toupee for an engine. Ford needs to design one for its crate motors.
Great updates Sir Paul (I think you've earned the title)

[edwardb]

x2 what Jeff said. The Coupe body looks pretty good, but lots of work before it's ready to be painted. Needs to be trimmed and cleaned up. Then mounted to the chassis, nose fitted, doors fitted, side pipes fitted, etc. Then everything that attaches to the body (lights, etc.) are fitted. The (finally) back off for paint. I may be at that point by year end. But who knows. I'm taking my time and not in any particular hurry. Plus I really do have others things to do beside work on this build.