When I had the body on for test fitting I realized that fitting the front splash shields was not something I wanted to do for the first time with a painted body. Since I have foot box vents I decided to install the splash shield with the body off, with cleco's for now.
Edit: I removed the photo. It was pointed out to me that I flipped the left and right splash shields. Oops. Didn't want my photo to lead anyone else down the wrong path.
So, at least I have my vent hoses in place passing through the splash panels. When I get the body in its final position I will trim the outside edges as needed. If I need to add material I'll use larger bulb seal or rivet pieces in place.
While I was working with the vent hose I decided to trim the Finish Line scoops and screen for the front. I trimmed the plastic scoop to fit the back of the body but the screen didn't look right so I reversed the order and shaped the screen first and then trimmed the plastic scoop to fit the trimmed screen.
I bent the outer shape by hand and then used a golf ball, forcing it forward from behind to get the screen to take a more rounded shape.
I followed EdwardB's lead and drilled and tapped my wheels and knock off hubs for the 10-24 x 3/4" set screws to hold the hubs in place. I was a little nervous about this modifications but it was easier that I thought.
I made a spacer ring out of .090 alum to take the place of the lug nut cover.
Several layers of HD tape to keep the drill motor from gouging the wheel paint. Even with the tape I almost dinged it. My first thought is always, what will this cost me if I screw it up. Fortunately, no harm was done.
Lots of cutting oil, frequent chip clearing and careful thread cutting.
I added a bead of construction mastic behind the hub as well. They feel pretty solid.
-Steve
Last edited by Straversi; 04-17-2018 at 09:36 AM.
Reason: Photo showed incorrect mounting.
Hi Steve,
This set screw for wheel, what is the spacer ring for? I was doing some shopping for my rear bumper kit and noticed some tap tools there, made me think of this mod
Hi Steve,
This set screw for wheel, what is the spacer ring for? I was doing some shopping for my rear bumper kit and noticed some tap tools there, made me think of this mod
Thanks,
Martin
The .090 spacer simulates the star shaped lug nut cover piece. Without the spacer, the knock off will bottom out on the threaded hub and not get tight enough and the spacing will be off when you reassemble. Probably easier ways to do this but it worked.
The .090 spacer simulates the star shaped lug nut cover piece. Without the spacer, the knock off will bottom out on the threaded hub and not get tight enough and the spacing will be off when you reassemble. Probably easier ways to do this but it worked.
-Steve
I see. So I need to drill through both of these? I was thinking that that set screw may just pinch the hub in place.
I see. So I need to drill through both of these? I was thinking that that set screw may just pinch the hub in place.
I was following the EdwardB thread. He used 3/4" long 10-24 set screws. Those go through the wheel and the hub. I vaguely remember another method someone used where they used a couple of set screws inside each hub and they jammed up against the inside of the wheel. Seemed like a good idea too. Someone else suggested cutting a couple inches of foam pool noodle and putting that between the wheel and the spindle and that would keep the threaded hub from moving. Many ways to skin this cat.
CDXXII made up some rings for his, and had a couple left over, which he generously offered up. I went further than his by pinning the ring to the hub mount (he used set screws in the ring against the hub and against the inner cavity of the wheel). I have a friend with a complete machine shop, and he did the precision work for me.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it. Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch. Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
I was following the EdwardB thread. He used 3/4" long 10-24 set screws. Those go through the wheel and the hub. I vaguely remember another method someone used where they used a couple of set screws inside each hub and they jammed up against the inside of the wheel. Seemed like a good idea too. Someone else suggested cutting a couple inches of foam pool noodle and putting that between the wheel and the spindle and that would keep the threaded hub from moving. Many ways to skin this cat.
Steve.
I hear you. I like this forum creativity heck, I may put there some treasures or trinkets
It was great to meet you this weekend at the Huntington Beach Cruise-In and thank you for sharing your build on the forum. I took a ton of pictures of your car. The details in this thread are very useful.
When you visit your brother up here in Elk Grove, give me a call.
Build School: July 14-16, 2017
Kit purchased: July 25, 2017
Kit delivered: September 13, 2017
First Start: December 22, 2018
Body painted and kit completed and drivable: July 2019 (but still not done)
CA SB100 Registration: January 2020
Mk4 - 289 USRRC Roadster kit, Roush 427SR with Schneider Racing custom camshaft, Fitech EFI, TKO600 (.64-5th gear), 15" wheels, stock brake calipers, under car exhaust with Spintech 7000 muffler, no roll bar, Russ Thompson turn signal, removable steering wheel, and many other small upgrades and modifications
It was great to meet you this weekend at the Huntington Beach Cruise-In and thank you for sharing your build on the forum. I took a ton of pictures of your car. The details in this thread are very useful.
When you visit your brother up here in Elk Grove, give me a call.
Eddie L.
Eddie,
Thanks, I had a great time meeting you and a bunch of other forum members at the show. I will definitely give you a call next trip up north. Love to see that 289 of yours.
-Steve
So I crossed another milestone moment off the list two Fridays ago. The body is officially off to paint!
Funny thing happened on the way...
The sticker on the U-Haul trailer fender that says 55 MPH is more than just a suggestion, as pointed out to me by a humorless CHP officer. Not on the fender but equally important is that trailers are not allowed in the express lane. Who knew? Should have been common sense but I guess I was preoccupied driving out to Temecula to the Bat Cave of Jeff Miller.
The man did more in 5 hours with that body than I could have done in weeks. Happy to have left it in very capable hands.
Headed home in the right hand lane going fifty-freekin-five!
Once the body was gone I was able to start finishing off some projects that have been underway for months.
First off was the dash. I cut the competition dash and made the glove box months ago, but I've left them uncovered until I knew for sure I wouldn't have to trim anything for the body install. Dash was fine so I got out the 1/8" Landau foam and the DAP Weldwood HHR contact adhesive.
I did the glove box first with just the leather and no foam. I used wax paper to keep my leather away from the glove box until I was sure I was aligned correctly because this stuff is instant grab.
On to the dash itself. Foam first.
Leather: First I found the area of my hide that had no nicks or blemishes and I cut the piece to fit the dash with plenty to spare. I have a large piece of stiff cardboard that covers my work bench. I duct taped the leather to the cardboard so the cardboard had a (slight) bow. Cardboard being the bow and leather being the string. Then I weighted the ends and effectively put a little stretch on the leather. When I applied the contact cement, the leather relaxed a little and laid flat with no wrinkles. When the glue was tacky, I dropped the dash on to the leather, then untaped the ends and folded them up around the curved ends of the dash.
10 razor blades and a thousand pie-cuts later....
Super pleased with how this turned out. I had cut a test panel way back when, to determine how much to oversize the holes so my gauges fit in snug, once the leather and foam was in place. Happy to learn my test was correct and the gauges fit in tight.
This is an idea I've been playing with since day one. I wanted to cover the top of the transmission tunnel in leather to match the dash. I also wanted to find a way to transition from the carpet to the leather with some kind of a metal angle. Don't ask me why. What others have done looks great, but this is one of those ideas that my brain would not let go of.
I found this extruded aluminum door threshold at Home Depot and it gave me an idea.
This is the proof of concept model. Cut the extrusion lengthwise removing the center section. Nutserts and countersunk screws to attach the extrusions to the transmission tunnel 3/4" tubes. extrusions secure a .063 center piece covered in foam and leather. The foam does not go to the edge of the cover so the leather fits flush with the top of the extrusion. Sounds easy enough.
I took the original cover and cut it to fit flat against the top of the framework. This is held down with nutsets and screws and a little silicon to seal it up, but still be removable. There is a gap between the sealing cover and the leather covered panel because of the shape of the extrusion. I had some 1/8"rubber sheet that I cut to fit. This fills the gap, insulates and makes everything feel solid.
After dozens of iterations with carpet and leather and foam, I got the pieces to fit the way I wanted and the look I was after. I believe I will powder coat the aluminum pieces black, but I'll wait until I get the entire interior done before I make that decision.
The transmission is offset to passenger side which really became obvious when I put two aluminum extrusion on the edge of the tunnel. I made a 3/8" spacer to move my shift lever over to center so it looked better.
Happy with the end result. Not for everyone but it was something I have been playing with for a long time and I like how it looks.
Another project that has been in the works for a while is my radiator surround aluminum. My FFR side pieces fit poorly (I'm sure due to my installation of the radiator) and I was never really happy with the look of the bottom front piece.
With the body on for test fitting, I added some cardboard and tape to the stock panels and tried to come up with a single piece that came all the way forward and covered the quick jack bolts.
I couldn't do what I wanted with a single straight piece but figured I could curve the side pieces slightly and they would clear the bolts. Gentle bend over my knee.
Fabricated the lower angles of the side pieces separately from the sides and attached with rivets. These keep the curve in place.
Mostly finished sides and front pieces with bead punch openings for my oil cooler lines.
I say mostly finished because after Jeff Miller gently adjusted the front tubes with a wooden block and sledge hammer ("look away", he said) I had to trim/adjust these pieces a bit further.
I had made some cosmetic pieces to cover bend reliefs in the bottom aluminum piece and they turned into good places for nutserts.
I made a couple of steel brackets with nutserts up top and I had 4 mounting locations for my radiator screen.
99% finished assembly
I'm sure I'll have a little more trimming to do when the body goes on for the final time. This will come off to install the body and it goes back together in a certain order with very tight tolerances and little room for my arms and tools, but it will fit.
I am no where close to where you are in the build, but are the holes already in the radiator surround for the oil cooler setup? I want to do the same on mine.
Couple more side projects knocked out while I was waiting for parts. I ordered a set of side pipes from Gas-N. I am very satisfied with the look, sound, order process and delivery, just as everyone who buys them seems to be. I liked the FFR pipes but I tend to leave my quite neighborhood very early on weekends. Figured I might as well do what I could.
Here is a comparison of the FFR and Gas-N pipes. Gas-N below with the longer muffler section.
I also made a radiator screen (direct copy from EdwardB) with stainless mesh from Pegasus Racing and 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum stock from HD. I think I will keep mine in natural finish but I'll determine that later. I'll drill out some of those rivets when I add the mounting brackets.
I also built a miniature version for my oil cooler. I used 1/2" angled aluminum for the horizontal legs of the frame so I could bolt the screen directly to the cooler mounts. I painted the ends black so they disappear and you only see the screen. Not sure if this will matter when the body goes on.
Complete set. The large radiator screen is not mounted. I will tackle that when I do the side and front aluminum after first body fitting.
-Steve
Do you have the aluminum 3/4” edge on both sides of the screening? Is it sandwiched between? Not sure if you did on both sides or just one.
Do you have the aluminum 3/4” edge on both sides of the screening? Is it sandwiched between? Not sure if you did on both sides or just one.
Yes, the screen is sandwiched between two aluminum frames. The front and back frames are not identical. The overlapped edges are staggered so the corners have some strength.
-Steve
For those, I used the 1-1/2” die. They make a 1-1/2” hole. The outer diameter of the bead is 2-1/4”.
I didn’t pass the hose directly through the holes in the side panels. I used a -10AN 90 degree bulkhead fitting so I could get the hoses angled where I need them to go.
For those, I used the 1-1/2” die. They make a 1-1/2” hole. The outer diameter of the bead is 2-1/4”.
I didn’t pass the hose directly through the holes in the side panels. I used a -10AN 90 degree bulkhead fitting so I could get the hoses angled where I need them to go.
Great job Steve. I like what you did with those funky oval openings on either end of the lower rad support. I've attached a picture of my rad protection and oil cooler. Look familiar? The stainless steel mesh is the perfect side for 1/8' rivets. I used a backing ring to hold them in place. I have the braided line plumbed, fitted and running back behind the drivers side engine mount. Capped and terminated, I didn't connect the oil cooler. It's just there for the look.
Last edited by Dave Howard; 05-08-2018 at 05:59 AM.
Great job Steve. I like what you did with those funky oval openings on either end of the lower rad support. I've attached a picture of my rad protection and oil cooler. Look familiar? The stainless steel mesh is the perfect side for 1/8' rivets. I used a backing ring to hold them in place. I have the braided line plumbed, fitted and running back behind the drivers side engine mount. Capped and terminated, I didn't connect the oil cooler. It's just there for the look.
Thanks Dave,
This is the fill panel. Tin snips, vice and mallet. Trimmed it carefully so it wouldn't rub the radiator anywhere.
So, you built your screen with a frame just on the front side and rivet backing rings on the back? I was thinking about that but was worried it would need more strength. All it has to do is deflect bugs and pebbles, right? Keep it simple. Mine is probably overbuilt.
I was warned that a functioning oil cooler was a PITA. Yep, it sure was.
This is a small modification I made to add some airflow into the engine bay. Not original in concept. I think I borrowed the idea from Chris "Gumball", but other than making a mental note, I couldn't recall or find the source. I used my 1" bead punch die and made 4 holes in the lower end of the front splash shields.
I match drilled the pilot holes and made a cover piece for the other side and sandwiched a piece of the stainless screen left over from my radiator guard. Formed the edges of the cover a bit to wrap the edges of the screen and riveted together.
Not sure how much airflow it will add but shouldn't hurt. I think I had as many questions about this small mod as any other at the Huntington Beach Cruise-In. It was great that people at the show seemed to notice and comment on every modification.
It was nice to take home the "Best Under Construction" award or as Dave Smith calls it, the "getting a trophy for not finishing your car" award.
Thread is pretty much caught up now.
Updated photo from the Bat Cave. Look at all that dust that isn't in my garage! Thanks, Jeff and crew.
Checking more items off the list. I replaced my fuel filter with this unit from Trick Flow, part# TFS-23006 (Thanks Paul). The one I had originally purchased was for a carbureted unit and didn't have enough flow.
Pretty standard location for this filter allows for easy access.
While I had the tank dropped for this job I remembered that I had purchased an OEM fuel tank gasket that goes between the tank and the fill pipe. I had read in several threads that it was recommended to replace the kit part with the OEM part# F4ZZ-9072-DA.
When I removed the kit part it was torn half way through. I did go-cart around with the fill pipe just taped in place so that might have been the reason for the tear, but at least I had the OEM part on hand.
I ordered 3 yards of carpet from FFR to carpet the trunk. Two yards would do the trick but I added the drop trunk kit and did some sheet metal modifications in the foot boxes, so I wanted some extra.
I decided not to carpet the side walls in the upper level next to the roll bars, since you can't really see them. The entire trunk is covered in Lizard Skin, so I painted the sides and back wall with the Lizard Skin Top Coat. This is a semi-gloss hard coat in a rattle can and it looks good next to the carpet.
I made my carpet templates from my go-to manila folders and tape. Lots of templates for the trunk. After this, I really appreciated how well the FFR interior carpet pieces fit, right out of the box. It took a while to figure out how to keep all of the edges of the drop trunk from showing any seams.
I'm not sure if this photo is upside down or if I didn't have enough ventilation for all that glue. Whew!
Finished Trunk.
I cut an access flap for the drop battery. I used countersunk screws for the battery access cover and had the edges of the carpet flap seamed.
This sewn type of carpet edging is called "Serging". I called a few upholstery shops who said they could do it but when I arrived, they showed me vinyl edging they could sew on. I was finally directed to a carpet shop and they "Serged" the edges (special machine). I'm going to have them make some floor mats for me later with my left over carpet.
I was going to add Velcro to hold down the flap but it lays down flat on its own so I'll leave it as is.
Finished DS foot box. Since I modified, this foot box, I needed to trim the factory kit carpet a bit, but it all worked out.
I have a switch panel just below my dash. With the carpet installed, I couldn't get the toggles or my battery cut off through far enough to catch threads. Luckily, the carpet trimmed nicely with my wife's grooming shears for her horse. Trimmed about half the length of the carpet away and was able to pull the switches through. This is only in print because the trimming went well and the shears were not damaged.
Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022, First start 6/13/2024, Go Kart 8/19/2024 Click here for my build thread
Serial #9158
Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines
Thanks, the original plan was to have the access panels for the fuel pump and sender exposed. After I invested that much time into the carpet I riveted the panels shut and figured I'd make the carpet look nice and drop the tank if I have to come back for repairs.
Lots of small projects in progress as I get close to the finish line.
I mounted a driveline hoop from Metco. Luckily they had one in stock so I didn't have to wait for them to process a batch. Simple and straight forward installation.
I drilled the mounting holes for the roll bar in the two vertical legs. I should have done this before I carpeted the trunk but not a big deal. Really happy that I did it before the body went on, though.
I'm using the Tangent blind attachment for the diagonal leg. I installed the two pieces in the hoop and diagonal leg.
The instructions made sense once I had the pieces in my hands, but I still had to read them several times. What, read instructions? Strange, but I'd recommend it if you are using this little gizmo. I had to do a little grinding and polishing on the diagonal connection on the trunk floor and on the diagonal roll bar tube to get this assembly to sit flush and smooth. You can't drill the lower connection for the diagonal tube until after the roll bar assembly is installed with the body on. Fortunately, this connection will be easy to reach.
Had a setback with my leather. The shop making my seat covers (Second upholstery shop, but that's a story for later) was concerned that the leather I bought for my dash and transmission cover was not automotive grade. He was not 100% certain but he was worried that it was furniture grade and that it might fade or discolor prematurely. I looked through my paperwork and although my order form said "automotive", I couldn't find anything on my received materials list that confirmed it. I bought it online so after several phone calls through various brokers with no answers, I punted and decided to replace.
The tough part was pealing off the leather. It came off easy, but man that was a lot of time and effort wasted. Tragic!
The good news is that the new leather I bought is much nicer, it will exactly match my seats and I did a little better job on the installation the second time around.
Finally finished my glove box door and hinges too.
A few weeks ago, basking in the Temecula sun in primer.
Add a little sealer and white for the stripes.
Mask off those stripes. Even looks good in white and lime green.
Spectra Blue.
Stripes unmasked.
And now with clear.
I wanted blue and white from the beginning. I strayed many times over the course of the build, but eventually came back to where I started. This is the car I see in my head when think about a Cobra. I am so pleased with the results.
Thank you Jeff Miller! Beautiful work. Ahead of Schedule! What else can I say.
I received my kit from FFR 2 years plus a few days ago. I never set a timetable or deadline but I figured 2 years would be about right.
Happy to be making the final turn for the home stretch. The painted body is mounted!
Finally able to install the gauges and tidy up the wiring for final installation of the dash.
I secured a few zip tie blocks to the back of the dash with HD double stick tape to help secure the wiring bundles. I noticed my toggle switches wanted to twist a little, so I added a few more blocks next to the switches to keep them aligned.
Everything neatly secured.
With the wiring completed and the driver's side foot box finally buttoned up, it was off to Jeff Miller to reunite the chassis and body.
Hopefully I get some time this weekend to start checking off the last few boxes.
Congratulations! That final turn onto the home stretch is a great feeling. Very clean work, that is going to be an amazing car!
FFR #8833 289 FIA 3-link
1965 289, TKO600 from Forte's Parts Connection
Body and Paint by Mike's Auto Restoration
Picked up 3/5/2016, First start 4/22/2017, MA legal 7/11/2018
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...FIA-build-8833
"Insanity is contagious" - Joseph Heller
Tail lights and gas cap installed. I added the locking gas cap assembly in a previous post.
Installed the rear splash panels. These needed minor trimming. The differences in the left and right side of the body start to show up when you trim these panels. Quite different from left to right.
I had bonded studs to the body per EdwardB in a previous post. Like the way those clean up the splash guard installation.
I will be adding more bed-liner to the body but I'm going to leave the splash panels raw, at least for now.
I fabricated the sealing panels to close up the gaps in the front of the rear wheel wells.
Driver side gap is larger than the passenger side.
I bent the upper/outer edge forward so the bulb seal would stay tight to the body.
Completed driver's side panel.
I installed the last couple pieces of FFR aluminum; the door sill trim pieces. One more cardboard box in the trash!
The driver's side requires only minor trimming. Passenger side took a bit more work with the tin snips.
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