Just another LS in a Roadster. Ready for paint.

[Jim Frahm]

Looks and sounds great Jim. Question... it looks like you altered one of the cross members on the top of the trans tunnel. Yes? Are you running a midshift on the TKX? Curious abiut what your setup is.

I’m running the TKX trans with the shifter in the forward position of the stock location. I removed the interfering cross member then welded mounting tabs on it and then relocated it slightly aft. I don’t think it’s necessary to re-install it but why not if it’s easy enough.

[OB6]

I’m running the TKX trans with the shifter in the forward position of the stock location. I removed the interfering cross member then welded mounting tabs on it and then relocated it slightly aft. I don’t think it’s necessary to re-install it but why not if it’s easy enough.

Great solution. Makes me wonder if I should remove that piece before sending the chassis to powder coat. And then bolt it back in when and where I need it.

[Jim Frahm]

WOW! I let this thread fall all the way back to page 5..... YIKES.

Okay, so I spent too much time playing with the C6 convertible and no time on the Roadster. However, I recently sold the C6 and now it's time to get the Roadster on the road. I started by making a simple clutch pedal stop bracket and got it mounted. I added a piece of rubber hose to the 1/2" post to prevent metal on metal contact.

P1030656.JPGP1030657.JPGP1030658.JPGP1030660.JPG

Now that the C6 is gone I have room for the body and chassis in the garage. I was thinking about doing the body work but have since started looking for someone local to take on that task. My hope is to find someone that will knock the seams off, fill, sand, and then get the body in primer. Then I'll mount the body, doors, truck, and hood so I can drive the car while waiting for a painter. Anyway, there's still lots of little things to do on the chassis before I can all it finished.

P1030661.JPG

[cc2Arider]

Hi Jim,

Wowsers! No one responded to your post...but I really like your pedal stop bracket! Simple, effective, and well done

Did you weld your round tube to your angle "iron" piece? Or drill, tap, and bolt?

Craig C

[460.465USMC]

Great to read you're back on the build, Jim. Very nice clutch stop! One of these years I need to learn how to weld. That skill opens up a whole new horizon of possibilities on a build.

[Jim Frahm]

Hi Jim,

Wowsers! No one responded to your post...but I really like your pedal stop bracket! Simple, effective, and well done

Did you weld your round tube to your angle "iron" piece? Or drill, tap, and bolt?

Craig C

Thanks!

I drilled a hole in the L bracket and then welded it on both sides. I'm thinking about making another one that is even easier to install and doesn't require holes in the 3/4 square tube; that was a bit of a pain to drill because of it's location. Anyway, thanks again.

[cc2Arider]

Hi Jim,

"clamp" design instead?

Craig C

[OB6]

I was thinking "clamp" as well, similar to how I mounted my gas pedal (and actually how the Breeze gas pedal is setup). See post #28 in my build thread.

[Jim Frahm]

Hi Jim,

"clamp" design instead?

Craig C

I was thinking "clamp" as well, similar to how I mounted my gas pedal (and actually how the Breeze gas pedal is setup). See post #28 in my build thread.

I like what you did with your pedal. I ended up using the factory pedal because I’m also using a cable.

Anyway, I’ll build a test piece and show you what I’m thinking. 🤔

[Jim Frahm]

Here's the clamp on pedal stop I came up with. It's super easy to install and adjust with just one hand/tool.

P1030666.JPGP1030667.JPGP1030668.JPGP1030670.JPG

I just test fitted it on the trunk hoop because I didn't want to take mine off. I would use this one if I hadn't already drilled the holes for mine. This one is on it's way to OB6.

[OB6]

It's a great design, simple and effective. Thanks Jim!

[Jim Frahm]

I'm sure this is a Happy Milestone for everyone building a FFR kit!!!!!

THE CARPET IS DONE!

It was actually a lot more fun than I anticipated plus there's a lot of instant gratification after every piece. I'm still waiting on additional carpet to finish the cubby divider but all the kit carpet is in.

I also swapped out the kit seatbelts for something a little smaller and easier to get in and out of.

P1030685.JPGP1030686.JPGP1030687.JPGP1030688.JPGP1030689.JPG

I'm in the process of machining seatbelt flanges where they pass through the rear bulkhead. They will be my own design with no hardware seen once mounted.

I also trimmed the wheel arches and filled in the lip behind the arches. Once the weather warms up I'll pull the body outside and sand and undercoat the underside of the body. Once that's done I'll be ready to fit the body.

[GoDadGo]

Well Done Fellow Dark Sider!

[ggunter]

Jim your build looks great. Nothing like having an analytical mind to figure out the speed bumps of a build. This is a bit off topic, but we have a common hobby. I noticed in your opening page a large RC plane with canisters hanging from the ceiling. Do you fly much? If your buying planes of that size with canisters you have been flying for a while. They are not cheap. It's very easy to take a 35 or 40% plane out for flying and have something go wrong or a mechanical failure and have a $5000 day. But as all fellow RC pilots know if you're going to fly, you're going to crash. Some days you hang your head and do the walk of shame with trash bags in hand to the crash sight. I too like large scale RC and have been flying successfully since 2008. I don't fly nearly as often as I used to since I got my car. But this year I have promised myself to get back into flying. Can't wait to see your car all done. Yak.PNG

[460.465USMC]

Looking good, Jim. I like the border around your cubby opening. I’ll need to get a closer look at that when I see it in person next time. I assume you fabricated it? Also intrigued to check out your seat belts. Let’s go for a drive….soon!

[Jim Frahm]

Looking good, Jim. I like the border around your cubby opening. I’ll need to get a closer look at that when I see it in person next time. I assume you fabricated it? Also intrigued to check out your seat belts. Let’s go for a drive….soon!

Check this out!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ighlight=cubby

[ggunter]

Looks like another niche market for Cobra parts. People would buy that cubby trim.

[Jim Frahm]

Jim your build looks great. Nothing like having an analytical mind to figure out the speed bumps of a build. This is a bit off topic, but we have a common hobby. I noticed in your opening page a large RC plane with canisters hanging from the ceiling. Do you fly much? If your buying planes of that size with canisters you have been flying for a while. They are not cheap. It's very easy to take a 35 or 40% plane out for flying and have something go wrong or a mechanical failure and have a $5000 day. But as all fellow RC pilots know if you're going to fly, you're going to crash. Some days you hang your head and do the walk of shame with trash bags in hand to the crash sight. I too like large scale RC and have been flying successfully since 2008. I don't fly nearly as often as I used to since I got my car. But this year I have promised myself to get back into flying. Can't wait to see your car all done. Yak.PNG

I’ve been flying a little bit of everything for decades but now I fly mostly contest gliders. The large scale Wilga you see hanging in my garage is a plane used to tow scale gliders.


1279E9E5-22B6-4897-8510-18903A58A8B7.jpeg

[ggunter]

The club I belong to has a segment of the club that likes and fly's gliders. They use a 40% cub as a tow plane. I myself have a couple of powered gliders. No tow plane needed but of course they aren't as light so shorter flight times, at least the unpowered time. But then power back up and do it again. I find gliders so relaxing.

[Jim Frahm]

I came up with my own design for the shoulder seat belt trim rings. I like the "No Hardware" look. What do you think?

These are photos of the first two ops.

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[Jim Frahm]

Here I've added the belt slot and drilled and counterbored the holes for the rivets. As you can see I'm using a tab mounted to the 3/4" tube to hold them in place.

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[460.465USMC]

Awesome, Jim! Those turned out really nice. Even better to have seen them in person. Very nice touch, and will complement your Breeze cubby trim surround. I'm jealouse.

[Jim Frahm]

I have had the body on and off a few times trying to get the correct fitment. I even enlisted the help of a fellow builder Chris. The first thing I learned is; the body is not symmetrical so don't try to make each side fit exactly like the other. The second thing is; I'll have to adjust the radiator mount to get the spacing correct for each front wheel arch. I also had to trim the back and side trunk panels so the body could slide forward a bit to get the correct fitment of the door opening and striker plate. My question is: does bulb seal get added to the lowest step on the trunk floor between the trunk side pieces? If I missed that in the manual then by all means tell me to look again!

Here's the progress so far. The underbody is painted and the side louver opening are cut to the proper size and location; for the most part. P1030717.JPGP1030719.JPGP1030720.JPGP1030722.JPG

Thanks Jeff K for providing a side louver pattern so I could make a router template.

Jim

[Jeff Kleiner]

...My question is: does bulb seal get added to the lowest step on the trunk floor between the trunk side pieces?

Yes, it gets bulb seal.

Jeff

[Jim Frahm]

Here's the body progress so far:

1. The body is moved forward for the correct spacing of the door opening and door striker plate.

P1030726.JPGP1030729.JPG

However, moving the body forward and opening up the factory holes for the roll bars has produced a large gap forward of the roll bars. Is this normal?

P1030727.JPGP1030728.JPG

2. The front of the body was moved over. Measured from the upper shock tower to the wheel arch. The difference now is less than a 1/16th".

The hood opening is not centered on the upper 3/4" tubes. I believe this is normal and a non issue with all the adjustment you have with the hood hinges.

3. Light wiring is almost complete. I'm using Deutsch connectors.

P1030724.JPG

[Jim Frahm]

Now it's on to the most feared part of the build, or dreaded part of the build...... Fitting the doors, hood, and trunk.

[Jim Frahm]

It’s now ready for the body shop and paint.

https://youtube.com/shorts/LZDPuiz9fNs?feature=shared

I’m still undecided on a color.

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Jim! Amazing how many small details at the end have to be worked through to get to this point. Looking good!

[OB6]

Looks great Jim. I have to say that's the part of the build I'm looking forward to least. But seeing yours all fitted gives me some inspiration.

[Jim Frahm]

Congrats, Jim! Amazing how many small details at the end have to be worked through to get to this point. Looking good!

So true. I think you actually build this car twice because of how many times you take something off and then put it on again.

Looks great Jim. I have to say that's the part of the build I'm looking forward to least. But seeing yours all fitted gives me some inspiration.

I hear ya! Just knock it out one piece at a time and before you know it,,, it’s done. I decided to wrap the headers with heat shield tape so shortly after that video I have the car back on jacks and I’m removing the exhaust system. It’s much easier to do with it out of the car.