Guess I found a name for the build thread. (I can change that later right?!).
First 2 questions already:
1) Did not receive a spacing tool and it's not on the inventory list. Is this a real thing? Guess I'll just make one.
2) Engine bay F panels don't line up with the frame. Not sweating the small stuff just wondering if I should assume where they are screwed is the best location or should I move the DS back to match the frame more.
Guess I found a name for the build thread. (I can change that later right?!).
First 2 questions already:
1) Did not receive a spacing tool and it's not on the inventory list. Is this a real thing? Guess I'll just make one.
2) Engine bay F panels don't line up with the frame. Not sweating the small stuff just wondering if I should assume where they are screwed is the best location or should I move the DS back to match the frame more.
Thanks
Mr. Miller,
No, don't assume that the screws place the panels in the perfect, 100% spot on location.
Remove one panel and attempt to lay them up against the frame to see exactly where it fits best.
You can see how they should fit in my walk around update video that I did a long, long time ago.
1. Agree the location of the aluminum panels for shipping may/may not be perfect and should be checked as you go. But if they are off, typically not much. Those guys have done just a few of these. But for those F panel pieces, I'd be more concerned about where they fit around the front suspension mounting points than that specific location by the radiator cross tube. That piece is known to be sometimes mounted at an angle. Hard to see in your pics, but looks like the gaps down by the suspension look pretty similar. But look there, not at what's in your pictures.
2. The rivet spacer tool looks like a ruler. 17 inches long x 1-1/2 inches wide with a row of 2-inch spaced holes along one edge and 3-inch spaced holes along the other edge. It should be in the same box as all the other loose aluminum pieces. It would be easy to miss. Handy to have if you didn't receive it.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
1. Agree the location of the aluminum panels for shipping may/may not be perfect and should be checked as you go. But if they are off, typically not much. Those guys have done just a few of these. But for those F panel pieces, I'd be more concerned about where they fit around the front suspension mounting points than that specific location by the radiator cross tube. That piece is known to be sometimes mounted at an angle. Hard to see in your pics, but looks like the gaps down by the suspension look pretty similar. But look there, not at what's in your pictures.
Thanks Ed, just wondering what I should optimize. Makes perfect sense, suspension mounting points it is.
2. The rivet spacer tool looks like a ruler. 17 inches long x 1-1/2 inches wide with a row of 2-inch spaced holes along one edge and 3-inch spaced holes along the other edge. It should be in the same box as all the other loose aluminum pieces. It would be easy to miss. Handy to have if you didn't receive it.
The bad - One of the two lower control arms has a bad fitting hole. Don't see anyway it could have been damaged in shipment. I think it was bad from the manufactuer
I'm sure FF will make it right, just have to contact them.
Higgy
MK4 #11012 picked up 04/16/24
351W, 3 link, single roll bar
MK4 #10616 picked up 4/10/23
302w, 4 link, 17's, dual roll bar SOLD
MK4 #9759 picked up on 4/3/19
351C, 3 link, 17's, dual roll bars SOLD
Quick question about the upper control arms. Assembled the first one exactly per both the photo and diagram shown in the manual. Attempting the other side and I don't understand how I can reverse the parts to put the solid side of the balljoint plate in the front. Is there a left and right balljoint mount. Mine are identical hence no way to reverse. IE the ball joint would point in when the control arm is horizontal not out as shown in the photos.
Thanks
Last edited by miller7448; 08-08-2018 at 06:56 PM.
Quick question about the upper control arms. Assembled the first one exactly per both the photo and diagram shown in the manual. Attempting the other side and I don't understand how I can reverse the parts to put the solid side of the balljoint plate in the front. Is there a left and right balljoint mount. Mine are identical hence no way to reverse. IE the ball joint would point in when the control arm is horizontal not out as shown in the photos.
Thanks
UCA's will have the solid connection in the front on one side and the back on the other side. No problem and totally normal. In both cases, the ball joint must be pointed out at the bottom. Like this:
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Thanks Ed, just seems like this will make alignment difficult since the geometry is so different. Will proceed.
Maybe seems that way, but it's not. Works out just fine. Whole bunch of 'em built this way and the alignment adjusts dead on. You're not the first to question it though.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I'm looking at going with an EFI 427 with a TKO-600 6 speed. I understand this might require cutting a cross member. Could not find anything searching here. Anyone familiar with this combination and required modification or other thoughts on this choice. Thanks.
I'm looking at going with an EFI 427 with a TKO-600 6 speed. I understand this might require cutting a cross member. Could not find anything searching here. Anyone familiar with this combination and required modification or other thoughts on this choice. Thanks.
TKO 600 is a 5 speed. T56 is 6 speed. Which is it? What rear end are you using? Be aware that the T56 is not recommended with a live axle due to driveshaft length.
I'm looking at going with an EFI 427 with a TKO-600 6 speed. I understand this might require cutting a cross member. Could not find anything searching here. Anyone familiar with this combination and required modification or other thoughts on this choice. Thanks.
TKO's only come in 5-speed. I suspect you're asking about the 6-speed T-56? It's bigger, longer, and heavier than the TKO's. Yes, it will fit in the Roadster and a number have been done. But with several caveats: Generally the recommendation is only with IRS. The longer T-56 makes an already short driveshaft even shorter, and the solid axle is going to move too much. The fixed diff in an IRS setup can handle the shorter driveshaft. Having said that, guys have put a T-56 in a solid axle with a mod motor or a Coyote, because they put the bell housing/trans an inch or more forward compared to a SBF, so that's a more workable setup. I know that doesn't apply in your situation, but just giving a complete answer. Of course anything's possible if you're going to start cutting and welding, e.g. moving the motor mounts forward. But that gets into other issues, like headers, side pipe location, etc.
You don't say what rear suspension you have, and couldn't find it in your other posts. I'd recommend adding a sig line to your profile with your kit specifications. Lots of examples with other forum members.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Yes T56 MAG 2.66/63. Yes running IRS. I would love to add sign line and photo but don't know if I have reached enough posts but can't for the life of me find a place to edit it. And thanks for the link to the other forum!
It's always in the last place you look - under settings, found it.
Last edited by miller7448; 08-10-2018 at 06:28 PM.
1) I'm trying to avoid asking questions already answered here. When I query I just get a long list of threads, including build threads with no clue where the actual post containing relevant information exists within each thread. Is there a better way?
2) The hub studs to replace the originals do not have the same flat area to avoid interfering with the rubber piece between the two sections of the hub. Do people normally grind a flat for clearance?
3) Can't find a through hole lug nut listed on the inventory. Did I miss it, is one provided or do I just buy one?
Thanks
Last edited by miller7448; 08-12-2018 at 11:16 AM.
Reason: correction
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
Back at it after two week bike trip through Canada leading up to Harley 115th celebrations in Milwaukee. Anyone else have this happen while setting the studs? Threads ripped out of the lug nut. Used lubrication, but nut failed on the fourth one. Guess it is better than stripping the bolt.
Last edited by miller7448; 09-03-2018 at 09:17 AM.
Reason: spelling
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
Back at it after two week bike trip through Canada leading up to Harley 115th celebrations in Milwaukee. Anyone else have this happen while setting the studs? Threads ripped out of the lug nut. Used lubrication, but nut failed on the fourth one. Guess it is better than stripping the bolt.
I've set the kit provided 1/2 - 20 studs used with the 2015+ IRS setup a couple times. I use an impact driver that I know puts out well over 100 ft-lbs and it's just able to pull them in. Since lug nuts are typically torqued at around 85 ft-lbs, likely you were well over that amount. I always use a hardened nut and washer instead of the lug nut. Keeps them from getting banged up plus the chance of overstressing which you clearly did.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
On to the next challenge. The back set of sleeves for the center section are too small. Fairly certain I read something about a different set of sleeves. Can't find anything in the manual or searching the forum. I do find a bag marked 15345 that I can't find anywhere on the inventory pages. It contains what appear to be the right sized sleeves and bolts but also contains nuts and cotter pins.
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
Only using a 16" breaker bar and I'm a software guy so unlikely over 100ft-lbs . Bought some "normal" looking lug nuts and set the rest of the studs without problems.
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
Is there any type of listing or searchable directory of "mods". Shame on me for not collecting them as I read the many valuable posts in the build threads but now that it's time to actually implement some of them my memory fails me.
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022, First start 6/13/2024, Go Kart 8/19/2024 Click here for my build thread
Serial #9158
Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines
Thanks Yama-Bro for the links to the mods. Could not find what I was looking for the eBrake cables so did something on my own. I got past the initial dislike of running the cables under the 4" cross member, but very unhappy with the inability to make up for the inherent misalignment caused by the cable bracket being vertically positioned which causes the cable paths to be different lengths. The Clevis picture is the minimum misalignment possible in my case.
I live in the Kettle Moraine, parking on a hill is common. Having only one side engage is not acceptable.
Created a bracket that places the cable ends in alignment and also puts the cables in the correct geometry to avoid the normal bends before going under the 4” tube. I will need to make a linkage since the cables are now too short but this is simple.
Two questions: 1) Is this bracket likely to be in the way as the build progresses. 2) If it's OK where it is, thoughts on bolting vrs welding.
Thanks
Last edited by miller7448; 10-08-2018 at 01:36 PM.
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
Anyone know how to change the name of a build thread? I think mine is offending people
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
On the list of build threads, where it is showing all of our threads, just double click just to the right of the word "Beater" and it will then allow you to change it. See below, where I did it for mine... ScreenShotFor Beater.jpg
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
Thanks Yama-Bro for the links to the mods. Could not find what I was looking for the eBrake cables so did something on my own. I got past the initial dislike of running the cables under the 4" cross member, but very unhappy with the inability to make up for the inherent misalignment caused by the cable bracket being vertically positioned which causes the cable paths to be different lengths. The Clevis picture is the minimum misalignment possible in my case.
I live in the Kettle Moraine, parking on a hill is common. Having only one side engage is not acceptable.
Created a bracket that places the cable ends in alignment and also puts the cables in the correct geometry to avoid the normal bends before going under the 4” tube. I will need to make a linkage since the cables are now too short but this is simple.
Two questions: 1) Is this bracket likely to be in the way as the build progresses. 2) If it's OK where it is, thoughts on bolting vrs welding.
Thanks
Before I make the final bracket with gussets and have it powder coated could anyone tell me if the location will cause build problems later on? Guess I can just leave it clamped until later.
Thanks
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
Anyone else waiting for Koni shocks? I ordered my kit on 5/24 almost 5 months ago and still waiting for 15' IRS KONI DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE SHOCK SET. Is it time to look at the Breeze replacements?
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
Standard build here. Decided to do a simple brushed swirl on the visible aluminum panels. Coated with Sharkhide thanks to the info from the forum. Obtained front and rear QA1 double adjustables from Breeze. As many have said before Mark is great to work with.
I wonder what the average number of times to remove the pedal box is. Think I'm at four.
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
DD is a Jeep SRT 475hp 470 Ft/lbs 5,104 curb weight all wheel drive. Trying to picture 500hp in 2000 lbs with rear wheel drive. Should be fun! Will need order rear tires by the dozen.
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
Keep the thread title. AND, then do some research for a Miller High Life poster that featured a Cobra (and a babe). I have looked, but can't find it, seems as though it was huge banner that would be cool on your garage wall. Probably from the mid 80's to the early 90's.
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)
Mike Forte arranged for a good Christmas. Picked up 3 days before.
Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)