Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
I'll pass on the master / grasshopper reference but here was my thinking on the Lokar mod. The pulley setup really works well and with two years on the road with #8674 I haven't touched it and still works perfectly. And I use the e-brake a lot. But the one issue with the mod is the clevis drags across the head of the rear carriage bolt holding the handle assembly to the frame. Shortening the clevis and also lowering the pivot point (you can see that if you look closely) is my attempt to minimize that drag. I've seen some builders do this e-brake pulley mod and use the Lokar clevis unmodified and seems to work OK. So you can decide how you want to approach it. One thing you'll find, and I've mentioned it before, is the Wilwood brakes used on the 20th Anniversary Roadster (and now available as an optional upgrade) use a separate e-brake caliper that requires very little actual cable movement. Basically, just tightening the cable actuates the e-brake. So there isn't a lot of actual movement across that bolt. One other thing, I'm assuming you saw in a later post, based on a suggestion, I added a second pulley so each cable has its own. Probably would work OK with one, but I'd recommend two.
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Yes, I have the double roller set up... Thanks for the reply. I'm going to get back on it tomorrow and finish it up... It actually looks like if I do not cut the clevis, then the thread area of the adjuster will actually pass over the bolt head and might not even touch it. Either way, I'll get is all figured out and I very much thank you for your reply. For a little pep me up, I just watched all your first start and first go cart drive videos for #8674....

This week is focused on getting everything taped off and ready for Lizard Skin Sound and Heat coatings this weekend... Oh Boy!!!