King's MK4 Coyote Build

[2bking]

Bravo! Well done King
Jeff

Thanks Jeff, you helped me a lot.

Looks great! Some creative fabrication there.

Thanks chopthebass, I think the biggest feat was the tilt front. It works very well and I am quite pleased how it turned out.

Gobsmacked!

Thanks Dale, I had to look it up and found it to be Australian lingo.

Some of the still to be done items on the list was setting frame height and checking corner weights. I set the frame height about a year ago but it now has additional weight on the chassis so it was about 1/2" low all the way around. Adjusting the coil-overs on the rear was easy because the IRS would droop enough to free up the springs. The front shocks limited the droop so the springs were still loaded with the wheels off the ground. I made a spanner tool to adjust the front springs. It took about 30 minutes with some scrap material and worked very well.
2015-12-01 15.35.24d.jpg

After the ride height was established, I wanted to weighed each corner but didn't have anything but three bathroom scales purchased a few years ago for another purpose. The bathroom scales have a maximum weight reading of 300# and I knew the each wheel would be around 600# so it would take all three scales and divide the weight between them. I unassembled a wheel dolly to use as a cradle for holding the tire with the scales placed under it. I blocked the other tires to be the same height as the one being weighed so the chassis wouldn't be disturbed during the process. I biased the fulcrum for the end with the single scale so it would have less than half of the weight by using a thin strip of wood at the very edge of the dolly. It can be seen in one of the photos. To make a long story short the total weight was 2360 with a 51% rear bias. The maximum left/right difference was on the rears with the right side 30# heaver than the left. Here are a few pictures of the Red Neck method.
2015-12-01 16.53.48d.jpg 2015-12-01 16.54.32d.jpg 2015-12-01 16.53.09d.jpg 2015-12-01 16.50.33d.jpg 2015-12-01 16.55.14d.jpg

Now I need to check the alignment on all four and I think I will be ready for the ASE Master Mechanic inspection.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Ahhhh, that wasn't the bathroom scale method I was expecting when I first read what you were doing! Nothing at all wrong with that way and just as an FYI here is another approach for anyone who may be curious.

No photos but hopefully you can get the idea from this crude representation:

Pivot]_ 1/4_____]TIRE[____ 3/4___________[Scale

You're working with a fulcrum principle. The vehicle tire is placed on a 2X12 which spans between the scale and a pivot (a piece of angle iron perpendicular to the board with it's point up would work well) To make it easy lets say the center of the tire is 1 foot from the pivot and 3 feet from the scale. Done in this ratio the weight shown on the scale is 25% of what is actually on the wheel; i.e. 200 on the scale=800 at the wheel. Clear as mud? Sure, it's not as accurate as using a full set of digital race scales but it also doesn't cost 2 grand and will get you closer than nothing which is how 95% of these cars roll out after they're built.

Good job King!

Jeff

[2bking]

Ahhhh, that wasn't the bathroom scale method I was expecting when I first read what you were doing! Nothing at all wrong with that way and just as an FYI here is another approach for anyone who may be curious.

No photos but hopefully you can get the idea from this crude representation:

Pivot]_ 1/4_____]TIRE[____ 3/4___________[Scale

You're working with a fulcrum principle. The vehicle tire is placed on a 2X12 which spans between the scale and a pivot (a piece of angle iron perpendicular to the board with it's point up would work well) To make it easy lets say the center of the tire is 1 foot from the pivot and 3 feet from the scale. Done in this ratio the weight shown on the scale is 25% of what is actually on the wheel; i.e. 200 on the scale=800 at the wheel. Clear as mud? Sure, it's not as accurate as using a full set of digital race scales but it also doesn't cost 2 grand and will get you closer than nothing which is how 95% of these cars roll out after they're built.

Good job King!

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, and good info for anyone trying to do the home weight. I considered it but to make it accurate, the tire needs to be on a fulcrum so the distances are fixed. I was lazy and didn't want to spend the time to fabricate the lever with three fulcrums. It wasn't going to save me any time because the scales I have don't read weight until its applied and then the display blanks out after 5 seconds. For the short story long it was a PIA to jack each wheel three or four times until I got repeatable results. Even though each scale read a different weight with each jacking, the total was within 5# of each measurment.

In the process I came to realize it was a waste of time other than the info gleaned. I weighed each wheel before I fine tuned the ride height. In the beginning the frame had a tilt of a 1/8" from one side to the other at the rear as well as too low by a 1/2" while the front of the frame was too low by 1/2" on each side. The front wheels were within 15# of each other and the rears had a difference of 75#. The wheel with the most weight was the one where the frame ride height had the highest out of plane error and in my case it was the right rear. After setting the ride height through several iterations (4.5" rear, 4" front), I took the wheel weights as posted previously. My conclusion is the frame is stiff but flexible so corner weight jacking can be found with a good flat floor. When the frame is level side to side (assuming no frame damage), the car should be balanced for turning left and right.

[Georg]

Congratulations King, your build is really exceptional and very helpful for my future build. I love the color theme and all the details and looking forward to see more pictures!
Thanks a lot, Georg

[2bking]

As part of the registration in Texas, I need a certified weight receipt and a inspection by a ASE Master Technician. I drove it to a nearby scale (at a land fill trash site) that will issue a certified weight receipt. The certified one reads 2380#, my bathroom scales showed 2360#. It gave my method of weighing the wheels some validity.

Next was the inspection. I took it to a Firestone Car Care Center that had the needed Technician for the inspection. They had me drive it on the alignment lift and proceeded to check some known areas of problems and came back all smiles and complements. The rest of the visit was spent with them taking pictures (first Coyote they had seen) and talking cars.
2015-12-04 14.05.42d.jpg 2015-12-04 14.06.35d.jpg 2015-12-04 14.06.51d.jpg 2015-12-04 13.54.54d.jpg

I was not exactly satisfied with the way the windshield wipers laid at the bottom of the windshield at rest. I wanted them parallel with the chrome frame. I had seen where others had heated and bent them so I did the same. I have a heat barrier blanket that is used around combustible items when using an open flame that is in the picture that allowed me to do the bending on the car to see the immediate results. The arms are stainless so the heat marks are easily removed with fine sandpaper.
2015-12-02 13.47.56d.jpg 2015-12-02 13.49.23d.jpg

As part of my accessories is a windshield washer. I mock up the parts to find the best location for the squirters and discovered the aim of them was too low for best installation location. I search for others and found these that looked to be adjustable but didn't say so.
2015-12-06 12.18.40d.jpg 2015-12-06 12.19.13d.jpg

Sure enough, the ball at the base of the nozzle is molded in but with a little encouragement it pivots. I can finish the washer system in the next few days.

During the drive to the scales and inspection, I put about 40 miles on the car and had a few times where the Coyote died coming to a stop. I found if the clutch was disengaged with the engine above 1500 RPM the PCM would control the idle and below that it was hit or miss. I have the speed dial installed but haven't wired it to the PCM so I'll do that and see if it fixes the problem. If not, I'll need a tune.

[RRussellTx]

Looking good King!!

Did they say anything about the amount of threads extending past the nuts?

[2bking]

Looking good King!!

Did they say anything about the amount of threads extending past the nuts?

I don't think they inspected for that unless that was what he meant when he said, "a known problem area," while pointing to something under the car and talking to another employee. But he could have been referring to the fuel lines, brake lines, wiring, etc. Whatever it was he liked what he saw and came out all smiles.

[KDubU]

This is a great build! Love the tilted hood.

[soaringDude]

Congrats King, the car looks great. Next time I am in the area I have to stop by and see the finished product. You did an amazing job...

[2bking]

Congrats King, the car looks great. Next time I am in the area I have to stop by and see the finished product. You did an amazing job...

Give me a shout and I'll take you for a ride.

Today I completed the registration process. I knew more about the process than the woman helping me thanks to all the info available on these forums. She had to get the office managers help who then had to research the title manual to verify that I didn't need the State Inspection. I had all the paper work in hand that was needed and after conformation concerning the State Inspection, all went smoothly.
2015-12-07 12.55.35.jpg

[2bking]

I'm down to little things while waiting for the roll bars to come back from the plater. Just to finish up on the windshield washer install, the new washers have a 3/8" threaded post. I could have used then as is but the large post would have required them to be moved closer to the cowl edge to get nut clearance on the bottom side (there is a rib under there that can't be seen now). I cut the posts down on the lathe and rethreaded them to 1/4-20 UNC threads. After I installed them ,I adjusted the nozzles to get the water stream to hit the mid point of the windshield. Here are a few pictures of the before and after of the posts and them installed.
2015-12-06 17.00.25d.jpg 2015-12-08 10.41.17d.jpg 2015-12-08 10.42.40d.jpg

I also found after some driving that the FF floor mats wanted to migrate to the front of the foot boxes. I had purchased the Toyota mat retainers but thought they really wouldn't be needed. After witnessing the migration, I burned holes in the mats and installed the retainers. The hole required in the floor panels for the retainers is quite large, 7/16" drill, and is pictured. I used a butane soldering torch to punch the holes in the mats and cleaned up the holes.
2015-12-08 11.49.26d.jpg 2015-12-08 11.49.46d.jpg 2015-12-08 11.50.00d.jpg 2015-12-08 11.52.28d.jpg 2015-12-08 11.45.37d.jpg 2015-12-08 11.46.41d.jpg

One last problem I encountered was the removal of the mats. The retainers are designed for a metal grommet in the mats which I can't duplicate so the lip on the retainers didn't want to give up the mats. I sanded off the front edge of the lip and problem was solved. The retainer in the bottom of the picture is as purchased and the top one is sanded down.
2015-12-08 11.59.13d.jpg

[chrisarella]

As they say, the devil is in the details.

[MPTech]

Really like those floor mat retainers (I've experienced the same thing, mat sliding to the front). Do you have a part# or year model?


Found these:
Genuine Toyota Floor Mat Retainer Hooks Black Plastic Floor Mat Clips Hook Style, Excludes FJ Cruiser



Thanks! GREAT build

[chrisarella]

That looks like them. I found them on Amazon for $4.50 shipped:
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota.../dp/B00BRL73ZQ

[MPTech]

Even better! Thanks, just ordered them. (this has been on my winter mods list, but I never knew what to search for for holders)

[Mountain-Metalworks]

I haven't used them for the floor mat solution, but I've got several different sized grommet kits that I've used over the years. Here's an example from Home Smepo:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-T...1264/100200416

You can get them in brass and aluminum, but I think this would really clean up the hole in the floor mats. Burning the hole will keep things from fraying nicely, but the grommets give it a very clean and professional look. Something to think about to keep the very professional look of your car King.

-TJ

[2bking]

That looks like them. I found them on Amazon for $4.50 shipped:
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota.../dp/B00BRL73ZQ

That is the retainer that I purchased. You get two retainers per package and I used two per mat.

[bansheekev]

For retaining floor mats I used these:

image.jpeg

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/201399751746

The black ring disappears in black carpet and it's a snap so easy in and out. It requires a hole be drilled in the floor for the male part of the snap but I didn't mind that part. They work perfectly. They are common on MGs and Austin Healys...

Kevin

[2bking]

For retaining floor mats I used these:

image.jpeg

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/201399751746

The black ring disappears in black carpet and it's a snap so easy in and out. It requires a hole be drilled in the floor for the make part of the snap but I didn't mind that part. They work perfectly. They are common on MGs and Austin Healys...

Kevin

That looks like a good solution and I could have used the idea but you are a little late to my party now. Perhaps a mat retainer thread would be beneficial for throwing in all the ideas.

[2bking]

There are not many items left on my list of things to complete but fixing things like trim that won't stay on, cleaning up some wiring, and installing rearview mirrors. Most are little things that don't warrant pictures but the rearview mirrors are a deviation from what is supplied in the kit. I didn't want to install the fender mirror because it needed holes drilled in the body and the mirror surface is a little small. I didn't want a $200 mirror either so I looked for something less expensive. I found these motorcycle ones for less than $20 a pair and thought I might make them work.
rearviewmirror.jpg

I modified the first set I bought only to find I cut the shafts too short even though I measured twice so I ordered another set so I have $40 now invested.
2015-12-13 18.42.22d.jpg

I actually had to cut the end of the shaft at 15* to get them to look right and get enough adjustment out of the mirror without interfering with the wind wings. I drill and tapped a #10-32 UNF hole in the end for mounting it to the windshield side bar.
2015-12-13 18.43.10d.jpg

I marked the hole location on the side bar and drill the mounting hole. The DS is shown but the PS is similar.
2015-12-13 18.30.12d.jpg 2015-12-13 18.30.29d.jpg 2015-12-13 18.39.25d.jpg 2015-12-13 18.39.44d.jpg 2015-12-13 18.44.17d.jpg

I also am not planning on using the dash mount rearview mirror because of the same reasons as the fender mount mirror. I purchased a Ford Rearview auto dimming mirror with compass, outside temperature, and HomeLink. I'll post some pictures of that installation later.

[David Hodgkins]

What an amazing build. I'm speechless. So many cool details! You're making the rest of us look like lego block noobs!

[edwardb]

What an amazing build. I'm speechless. So many cool details! You're making the rest of us look like lego block noobs!

Hey, I like my Lego blocks! I agree. Amazing build. Looking forward to more details about that rear view mirror. Interesting...

[2bking]

What an amazing build. I'm speechless. So many cool details! You're making the rest of us look like lego block noobs!

Thanks David but you have a nice set of Legos too!

Hey, I like my Lego blocks! I agree. Amazing build. Looking forward to more details about that rear view mirror. Interesting...

Paul, I like the way you perfectly put your Legos together.

[2bking]

I got a call from the plater today saying my roll bars are ready for pick up. They will be the last thing I need to install and then graduation.

I finished the center rearview mirror today. It is a Ford Accessory that can be found on the internet and Ford dealerships. It has auto dimming, compass, outside temperature, and HomeLink for garage doors and other devices. The mirror mounts to the windshield glass so I purchased a mounting block and attached it to the windshield. To keep the mirror from blocking the view out the front I mounted the block as high as possible. This one used a silicone base adhesive and required 18 hours to set. There are five wires that run to the mirror for all the functions so hiding them is not easy. I considered removing the windshield glass and using the inside of the frame but the entry and exit points were too complicated. I took a simple method and ran them through a 1/4" brake line and fit it to the inside contour of the windshield frame and safety wired it to the sun visor mounts. The tube doesn't interfere with the movement of the visors. I drilled a 3/16" hole at the inside of the windshield post to pass the wires into the engine compartment. Two of the five wires are to the temperature sensor and the other three are ground, +12, and ignition. It's very simple to wire up. I mounted the temperature sensor top center inside the nose. It has a clip that fit the lip so it attached quickly. I ran the wires along the other cables back to the windshield to keep them hidden. My Infinity front Power Cell is located on top of the PS foot box and had the circuits available to splice into for the other wires and added an inline fuse for the +12. The tube around the windshield that houses the wires isn't noticeable from the rear and can't be seen from the front. Here are the pictures somewhat in order of installation.
2015-12-14 15.48.55.jpg 2015-12-14 15.49.35.jpg 2015-12-14 17.48.07.jpg 2015-12-14 17.49.27.jpg 2015-12-14 17.50.34.jpg

2015-12-15 17.33.25.jpg 2015-12-15 17.36.07.jpg 2015-12-15 17.51.45.jpg 2015-12-15 17.54.52.jpg

I have the FFR premium top so the mounting of the mirror had to not interfere with the top attachment. Otherwise, the top channel in the windshield frame would have made an excellent path for running the wires.

[2bking]

I wanted backup light(s) and considered a lot of places to mount them and the type of fixture. I decided on the super bright LEDs and clustered them in the rear lights.
2016-01-04 17.43.28d.jpg

They worked very well and then a couple of days ago only one of the four would light. Upon inspection three had burn spots like the right one in this picture.
2016-01-04 17.44.21d.jpg

The fourth one quit a day later so I'm not sure what caused the failure. The specs say they are for 12 -14.5 V and I tested one to 20 V where it quit but a burn spot didn't appear like the others. They are all replaced now so time will tell if the same fate awaits these. On the way to the store to get the wiring supplies I got this hit on my windshield from a gravel truck coming toward me.
2016-01-04 17.47.27d.jpg

I'll have to get another windshield soon.

[Jazzman]

Now that's a bad day! Sorry the trucks are out to destroy your work of art.

[WIS89]

King-

An awesome build wrapping up, is pretty darned exciting! I have really enjoyed following you along, and it is pretty cool watching you finish her up.

I like your back-up light solution. I have been wracking my brain trying to find a solution as well. I like the mini light that a lot of folks are using. However, your LED-fest really presents a unique solution. Can you post some more when you get finished?

So sorry to see that damage done to the windshield. Is this an insurance solution, or are you on your own?

Congratulations on finishing her up. I look forward to the graduation thread! Well done!!

Regards,

Steve

[2bking]

I like your back-up light solution. I have been wracking my brain trying to find a solution as well. I like the mini light that a lot of folks are using. However, your LED-fest really presents a unique solution. Can you post some more when you get finished?

So sorry to see that damage done to the windshield. Is this an insurance solution, or are you on your own?

Regards,

Steve

I'll take some detail pictures of a lot of parts when the weather gets a little warmer and I can move it to a more picturesque setting. The backup LEDs are Super Bright sold by a lot of vendors. The windshield is on me, I only have liability insurance and I have ordered a replacement from FFR.

[dallas_]

On the way to the store to get the wiring supplies I got this hit on my windshield from a gravel truck coming toward me.
2016-01-04 17.47.27d.jpg

I'll have to get another windshield soon.

King,
That sucks. As many trucks as you have around your place you might want to hold off as long as you can before you replace that one.

Car is looking great. Hope to see you at one of our monthly meetings soon.

[carlewms]

King,

That does suck about your windshield ...

Everything looks great. I really liked your side mirror solution which I will add to my list.

Thanks for sharing with us.

Carl

[aspbite]

For retaining floor mats I used these:

image.jpeg

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/201399751746

The black ring disappears in black carpet and it's a snap so easy in and out. It requires a hole be drilled in the floor for the male part of the snap but I didn't mind that part. They work perfectly. They are common on MGs and Austin Healys...

Kevin

Apparently these were used to hold the entire carpet on a lot of the English roadsters. Has anyone tried these for their carpet install?

[dallas_]

King,
Good seeing you today. Car turned out amazing. Really nice custom touches and the quality is great. Your tilt front is the new standard for that mod. Well done!
How about a graduation thread?

[2bking]

As most of you that follow my build thread and post have noticed, my avatar has changed. I couldn't find any badges for the fenders that matched my car so I had Billet Badges make a custom design. My avatar is the CAD proof they sent me for approval. The badges should be done in the next few weeks. I'm waiting on them for the graduation pictures. Here is the full size proof.
15_50_coyote_cobra.jpg

I have another update I've been working on for the last few days that involves the side pipes. The sound from the FFR pipes turns heads and announces the coming of the car but can get very annoying for travel of longer distances. At highway speeds conversation is reduced to sign language. I have been following a thread on the other forum involving muffler testing and the Flowmaster 13530320 Slimelines. The reports indicated the Flowmasters not only reduced the noise about 10 db but didn't rob horsepower doing it. It was a tough decision to cut out these beautiful mufflers.
2016-03-16 19.24.53d.jpg

I did it and welded in the Flowmasters. They have a outer shell of stainless steel but a mill finish so they don't shine like the rest of the FFR pipes until they are polished. There are plenty of pictures on the other threads so I didn't document the process but I did retain the heatshields. The pictures are from the first install so the new mufflers haven't been polished yet. I wanted to hear how much change they made before putting the polish labor into them. I can say they were worth the pain. Conversations are easy and I'm thinking now that radio/speakers are useful. It still has a deep throaty sound but just quieter. It's everything David Borden claims and even better than I expected.
2016-03-16 19.23.03d.jpg 2016-03-16 19.23.45d.jpg

[Jazzman]

Great badging, King. I am a long way from being ready for them, but I would like to do the same. Will Billet Badges now be offering them, or are they one of a kind just for you?

[MPTech]

Very cool eye-candy, the badges look really good. Thoroughly enjoyed your build.

[edwardb]

Nice work on the mufflers. I've always found the FF mufflers to be hard on the ears. I'm anxious to hear how the GAS-N's sound with the Coyote in my new build. Don't want to cut those up. Your badges look good. A little like the DART version I had them do (!), also in my avatar. They are good to work with, just not real fast. But very nice final product. You'll like the badges a lot. I'm pretty certain they would offer that same artwork to others.

[2bking]

Great badging, King. I am a long way from being ready for them, but I would like to do the same. Will Billet Badges now be offering them, or are they one of a kind just for you?

Thanks, I initiated the design but am sure they will sell it to others. I don't think I own the copyright since they made some changes from the original artwork I submitted.

Very cool eye-candy, the badges look really good. Thoroughly enjoyed your build.

Thanks

Nice work on the mufflers. I've always found the FF mufflers to be hard on the ears. I'm anxious to hear how the GAS-N's sound with the Coyote in my new build. Don't want to cut those up. Your badges look good. A little like the DART version I had them do (!), also in my avatar. They are good to work with, just not real fast. But very nice final product. You'll like the badges a lot. I'm pretty certain they would offer that same artwork to others.

I'm sure if the GAS-N's were satisfactory for your last build they will be a little quieter for the Coyote because of the smaller cubes and valve control.

I found Billet Badges through your lead thinking there was a badge that I could use but didn't so I went through the process of designing one. My previous avatar was the artwork I sent them; the new one is the changes they suggested and I approved. I purchased 4 thinking I might need an extra or two but may try to sell the extras to help pay for the artwork charge.

[WIS89]

King-

I like the new badges! It sounds like the folks at Billet Badges were reasonable to work with. I may end up doing something on mine, and may have to reach out to them.

Your car is really terrific, and that tilt front is just awesome!

Congratulations again.

Regards,

Steve

[TMScrogins]

Awesome build and awesome badges. Billet Badges do awesome work. I've used them twice. I had them make some badges for my Coyote Aluminator XS a while back. Here is the digital proof and the actual badges. Like others have said, very easy to work with, just very slow.
15_powered_by_50_cobrajet.jpgBadges.jpg

[2bking]

Awesome build and awesome badges. Billet Badges do awesome work. I've used them twice. Like others have said, very easy to work with, just very slow.

Thanks, they are slow but truthful. The 4-10 weeks they quoted in now in week 8 so they should be getting here shortly. The badges are either fill in work where they are made or there is a ton of customers needing special ones.