Wareaglescott's Coyote build thread - INDEX ADDED TO POST #1
I am going to do this build thread from a beginners perspective. I have absolutely zero experience doing anything like this. There are a lot of excellent build threads by very competent builders. Hopefully one from a beginner will be somewhat beneficial to people unsure if they can do it or not.
I am Expecting delivery of my MK4 kit next week. Very excited to get started.
My plan is for a reliable street cruiser. Don't really have any plans to track the car although you never know. I wasn't really planning to order quite yet but wanted to take advantage of the 50% sale on options. I have zero experience with a project of this magnitude. I have always been a car guy but have never built anything. Looking forward to the challenges this project will present. My job as an airline pilot provides me with a nice amount of spare time to devote to this project. I have spent a couple months researching and have learned a ton of information from this forum.
I am going for somewhat of a non traditional look. I love blue cars, in fact my last 5 have been blue including two I currently own but I wanted to go with something a little different. I am 6'3 and found the high back Kirkey seats fit me the best. Having those led me to think with the seat backs extending above the body I would also like the dual roll bars. I found an artist that does car drawings for a living. I sent him all my ideas and my color thoughts and he drew me up a concept so I could verify I liked the looks of it. Hopefully I can figure out how to insert the picture below. (BTW this guy is amazing with his drawings. I will happily pass on his contact info. Unsure of forum rules about posting it but message me if you want a drawing of your car.)
My build plan is as follows:
MK4 complete kit
IRS
Coyote
TKO600
Options I ordered:
Powder coated chassis
body cut outs
high back kirkey seats
Coyote power steering kit
17" Halibrand replica wheels
Stainless steel front and rear bumpers
Stainless steel side exhaust
wind wings
sun visors
heater
Front and rear sway bars
Dual chrome roll bars
leather steering wheel
IRS center section with 3.55
Front and Rear Wilwood brake option
My work space consists of a 1 car garage that is 2 cars deep in my basement. Should have adequate space and didn't get in trouble telling the wife I needed her garage space so that was a plus! I have been busy getting most of the tools and supplies I needed. Also built a frame dolley and body buck. I have an additional storage spot for the body buck so I did not do an elevated one to fit over the chassis. Not much else to do at this point but wait for delivery. Interestingly I have already received the front and rear brake kits. Thought that was interesting since I have seen numerous build threads where people were waiting on those for a while.
There is no way I could do this without all the information I have learned from the forum. I encourage all comments and suggestions to my thread and appreciate everyones input. Thanks
INSTGRAM - @scottscobra
EDIT 3/4/2017
Here is an index I am adding. Will continue to add to it as I go. Hopefully this will help people looking for a particular subject matter:
13 - inventory
18 - removing panels
44 - drivers side front footbox fill panel
48 - front LCA
51 - powder coat items
59 - front suspension
61 - front brakes
64 - irs prep
66 - rear wheel studs
71 - irs install
74 - irs control arms
77 - finish irs/ rear brakes
85 - heat shield
87 - pedal box install/ notch clutch pedal
106 - firewall support piece
110 - triple reservoir/ irs vent
113 - battery tray/ radiator mount
117 - footbox aluminum
119 - footbox heat/sound insulation
120 - fan shroud/ battery tray/ Ebrake cables
123 - fuel pump/ tank install
124 - Coyote engine lift plates
125 - homemade fuel vent filter
126 - oil pan change
127 - Alternator and power steering pump install
128 - clutch and transmission install
134 - wheels
143 - fuel regulator
148 - rolling chassis
150 - coyote clutch safety switches (hydrualic clutch)
151 - accel pedal/ fuse box
152 - brake lines
156 - cockpit aluminum
157 - transmission spacers/ engine install
160 - driveshaft/ driveshaft safety loop
166 - ebrake cable mod/ reinstall proper driveshaft
170 - transmission fluid
175 - coyote pcm
184 - brake bleeding
187 - rear harness/ trunk and cockpit aluminum/ clutch bleeding
193 - breeze quick disconnect steering wheel mod
200 - power steering (first lines, replaced later)
204 - coyote harness install
207 - heat shield and power wiring
208 - engine ground
210 - tach wiring/ coyote harness
213 - power steering revised lines
214 - coolant system
217 - removable dash
221 - horns
222 - engine complete/ dash prep
223 - ride height
224 - FIRST START!!
234 - fire extinguisher/ roll bar
240 - seat harness install
243 - alignment and first go cart
250 - weatherpacks for head lights/tail lights
258 - coyote pcm update code P0116
259 - seat heaters
262 - kirkey seat mounts/ lumbar supports and seat heaters
263 - drivers footbox
264 - cockpit heat and sound shield
265 - coyote vacuum system mod/ removable transmission tunnel
270 - brake line rub
272 - transmission tunnel covering
276 - 278 kirkey seat mounting/ carpet
282 - interior
289 - trunk carpet/ phone charger
291 - pedal box and exhaust pipe temps
297 - interior work
298 - drivers footbox panels
301 - wheel centers
302 - wheel and splash guards
311 - engine dress up
316 - paint samples
322 - door strap dye - dye to black
327 - trunk kit
350 - fuel pump failure
356 - license plate mod
359 - rear bumper couplers
376 - replacing coyote wiring harness
394 - knock offs painted / air intake shroud
401- nomex radiator protector
404 - final color selection
409 - painted engine cover
417 - deconstruct and ship to Whitby for body install
475 - wind wings with Breeze side mirrors and sun visors
423-522 Car is at Whitby. Lots of pictures of the paint process
531 - Whitby Motorcars review
540 - final assembly under door aluminum, seat install, taillights
541 - final assembly - interior door panels
551 - final assembly - license plate light, rear bumper, front splash guards, side pipes and heat shields
554 - final assembly - front bumper, radiator aluminum, brake duct mesh, visors, mirrors and wind wings, manual windshield wiper
573 - graduation pics
574 - hindsight post - lessons learned and tips with reference to post numbers
587 - finishing the back side of the Kirkey high back seats
583 & 596 - under door interior aluminum trim finish pieces
609 - 500 mile update
620 - tire stickers
634 - coyote custom pcm tune
646 - new side pipes with flow master slimline mufflers install
647 - resulting sound testing video with the new vs old pipes
654 - additional side pipe support installation
663 - corner balancing
670 - IRS driveshaft bolt Tech update from FFR
675 - coyote fuel mileage (2500 miles in)
712 - ceramic coating
720 - stripe width diagram
723 - ceramic coating review
Messing around and trying to figure out how to post pics in my thread. Hopefully the concept drawing, frame cart, and body buck will show up below! I came across David Hodgkins post about how to post pics in the welcomes and intros sections. Thanks David!
Got the call from the Stewart Transportation driver. My kit is loaded up. He will be making stops in Ohio, Indiana, and Texas before getting to me in Alabama. Tentatively scheduled for next Wednesday. I can't wait!
Well this is about the most pitiful build update possible...but so far the only parts I have are the front and rear brakes and I had to do something. Attached the hats to the rotors. Made sure the torque specification was inch/lbs and NOT ft/lbs. Did find a cheap and adequate click type torque wrench with a range of 80-200 inch/lbs at Harbor Freight for about $24. Can't imagine I will use that tool much in the future but I do like acquiring tools!
And so it begins! At least you are smarter than someone I know! You caught that inch pounds thing the first time. Of course I am going to end up with a nice matching Wilwood rotor hat wall clock! Looking forward to following your build. Hope your car comes this week.
Last edited by Jazzman; 06-27-2016 at 02:08 AM.
Jazzman
MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.
I was very excited the Stewart transportation truck showed up yesterday. I couldn't be more pleased with the delivery process. The driver Jim was great, the communication throughout the process from order to drop off was great. Would highly recommend Stewart if you are considering them. I ordered the last week of May and had delivery June 28. Quicker than expected.
After unloading and getting everything in my workshop it was time to start inventory. My wife enjoyed helping check off parts as I told her what they were. We had numerous interruptions as neighbors had to stop by and see what I had been talking about for a few months. That was fun to tell them about it and show them the kit. Hope to finish inventory today and then get to the real fun!
Once the inventory is done you may find you're missing one or two parts!! Don't worry, happens to all of us. When it's time to take the body off and remove the aluminum panels, work slowly and take lots of photos from different angles. You'll be surprised how you might forget how tab A intersects with slot B. Separate your panels into two piles: powder coated and not powder coated. Or you could just be nuts like me and PC all of them.
Enjoy the build. It is a great ride!!
Jazzman
MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.
Congratulations! That day was better than Christmas for me. Good luck with your build. I like your plan, and look forward to seeing your progress.
By the way, did you do your concept drawing? It looks very cool, and I think those colors are terrific.
I enjoyed seeing your delivery, and sharing your excitement! Best of luck!
Regards,
Steve
The concept drawing was done by an artist in Italy I found on Instagram. The guy draws cars for a living and really does an amazing job. The order and communication with him was very easy. He is Italian but ships world wide. I don't believe I can post his name here due to forum rules but if you message me I would be happy to share his information. I highly recommend him. He will do any custom car drawing you want.
Spent most the day yesterday doing inventory. I am excited to get started on the real work now. Will get the body off today and start progressing.
FFR did a pretty solid job packing all those parts up. Ultimately I ended up with 6 small parts/pieces missing. I have sent them the list.
Currently I have 19 items on back order. Some items are fuel cap, driveshaft adapter, both sway bars, shifter handle, multiple power steering components and the coyote fitment kit.
They did send me the wrong seats. I'm sure that will be corrected. I ordered the high back Kirkey seats and received the low back ones.
Keep in mind I am a complete novice on this sort of project. One thing that surprised me was the lack of part numbers on various pieces. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what was what. I'm sure someone experienced could have done inventory much quicker. Was not really a problem. Just different that I expected.
I do have one question. I have submitted it to FFR but figure someone here can answer.
I ordered 14932 polished stainless side pipes. The finish on them certainly is not the polished look I thought I was getting. Not sure if I got the wrong ones sent or if I just had an incorrect perception of what polished stainless was?? I was thinking they would match the roll bars.
Here is a pic. Did I get the wrong ones?
x2. Those are the plain steel pipes. I promise the SS ones look different than that.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Finally layed hands on the car today. It was great to do something other than inventory parts. FFR did verify they sent the wrong exhaust pipes so they are sending those and the Kirkey high back seats.
Had a neighbor come help me get the body on the buck. Not sure if my design or execution was lacking on the construction of the buck but after putting the body on there the back seemed to sag just a bit. I made some stands out of 2x4 and propped one on each side. Seems all good now.
Then I started removing the aluminum panels. I have to figure out which ones I would like to powder coat. I decided to drill them as I go so it is pretty slow going getting them off. Got about 6 done so far.
Couple questions please:
1. Any tips or tricks of the trade on how to mark some of the panels for drilling when the frame tube you are drilling into is not really on the edge of the panel? It is taking me a long time to line up and mark each hole by measuring from a known point. I am clamping the panel in place and then drilling through both the aluminum and tube at one time. Is there a better/easier method?
2. I am taking good notes on how these panels sit in relation to one another. Also been marking the panel number and some other useful information on the panel itself with a sharpie. Of course when they get powder coated or cleaned up those markings will be gone. Is there a good system for keeping up with what panel goes where once you lose the ability to have markings on them?
1. Any tips or tricks of the trade on how to mark some of the panels for drilling when the frame tube you are drilling into is not really on the edge of the panel? It is taking me a long time to line up and mark each hole by measuring from a known point. I am clamping the panel in place and then drilling through both the aluminum and tube at one time. Is there a better/easier method?
2. I am taking good notes on how these panels sit in relation to one another. Also been marking the panel number and some other useful information on the panel itself with a sharpie. Of course when they get powder coated or cleaned up those markings will be gone. Is there a good system for keeping up with what panel goes where once you lose the ability to have markings on them?
Thanks for reading and any tips.
#1.
You may need to remove the panels and make some adjustments, trimming &/or minor bending to achieve the best fit. The factory installed screws are just to secure them during shipping and are not intended to indicate precise locations. When you are satisfied with the positioning and fit use your Sharpie to trace the frame members onto the backside of the panels then remove the panel and drill in the center between the lines. After they are drilled put them back on and drill through the panel holes into the frame.
#2.
Photos
Good luck!
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff Kleiner; 06-30-2016 at 07:10 PM.
1. I do it exactly as Jeff described. X2 on being careful with the locations of the panels as shipped. They may not be exactly where you want them.
2. Pictures, yes. Also the FF build manual does a good job showing the proper sequence of installing the panels for each of the various areas, resulting in the proper overlaps, etc. The one exception I take to their instructions, and it's pretty widely discussed, is do the trunk floor before the rear cockpit wall. Otherwise you very easily could end up with rivet holes you can't reach.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Is there a good system for keeping up with what panel goes where once you lose the ability to have markings on them?
Just a thought... would it work to use number punches to punch a "part number" into each panel (in an inconspicuous place of course)? The only trick would be if the powder coat fills the punched number too much and you can no longer read it. You could use binary numbers. That would be easy to read after powder coat. (Sorry - engineering nerd talking).
I thought of this a while back and was going to go to Harbor Freight this weekend to buy a punch kit. (My kit arrives around the first week in August). I'm not sure what will happen to the numbers after the panel(s) get powder coated. Now, before of purchasing a punch kit, I'm going to visit a few places in my area that do powder coating to get their take on whether it would be a waste of time or a good idea?? I'll update after I find out.
I thought of this a while back and was going to go to Harbor Freight this weekend to buy a punch kit. (My kit arrives around the first week in August). I'm not sure what will happen to the numbers after the panel(s) get powder coated. Now, before of purchasing a punch kit, I'm going to visit a few places in my area that do powder coating to get their take on whether it would be a waste of time or a good idea?? I'll update after I find out.
I agree with Jeff and Paul on the best way to approach getting your panels prepared, and taking pictures.
I am not sure it makes much sense to punch numbers into the panels. They are sufficiently different that you will not confuse which panel goes where, or confuse you should you need to look them up in order to move forward. I think it is an unnecessary step.
As far as powder coating, I decided to only coat the panels that would be seen. To be frank however, I should have just had all of them powder coated. It wouldn't have been a significantly different cost to me had I done this, and it wouldn't have required me to do multiple trips to the powder coater to have it done. My feeling now, is to simply take all of the aluminum to the powder coater, and have it all done (perhaps not the small odds and ends in one of the boxes) at one time. The modest increase in cost is completely worth it.
It's exciting getting started, isn't it? Good luck this weekend, I hope you are able to get tons done!
Just a thought... would it work to use number punches to punch a "part number" into each panel (in an inconspicuous place of course)? The only trick would be if the powder coat fills the punched number too much and you can no longer read it. You could use binary numbers. That would be easy to read after powder coat. (Sorry - engineering nerd talking).
Originally Posted by coyobra
I thought of this a while back and was going to go to Harbor Freight this weekend to buy a punch kit. (My kit arrives around the first week in August). I'm not sure what will happen to the numbers after the panel(s) get powder coated. Now, before of purchasing a punch kit, I'm going to visit a few places in my area that do powder coating to get their take on whether it would be a waste of time or a good idea?? I'll update after I find out.
Don't over think it guys. Between pictures taken during disassembly and the manual it's not that hard. I know the build manual takes a beating from some, and I agree it doesn't have every detail or possibility. But it's much improved from the past and the panel install sequences are pretty clear. The pieces are all quite different and it's virtually impossible to put a part in the wrong location. Most are pretty obvious where they go.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
What edwardb and Steve said; snap a few photos to refer back to (as much to help you remember what overlaps and what tucks as for identification purposes) and move on. No offence intended to anyone in saying this but they are somewhat "idiot proof"
Good points Steve, Jeff and Paul. I guess if I can't figure out where the panels go I have no business building the car! Haha
I am very inexperienced with this type of work so this build thread will probably have a lot of easily answered basic questions. Especially in the early stages while I build up a little confidence in what I am doing. Hopefully that will be useful to the other rookies like me that read this!
Having a bunch of family in town this weekend so I don't expect to get much done. Looking forward to showing the family the project though! They are more clueless than me so they will just assume I know what I am talking about. Ha
Last edited by wareaglescott; 07-01-2016 at 05:07 PM.
I found a couple hours to work today. Still working on drilling and removing panels. It is slow going for me but I think I will be glad to have a lot of the drilling work done ahead of time. The tips I asked for in a previous post are much appreciated. Worked great!
I do have a question about the DS footbox front panel. The kit shipped with this panel.
The build manual indicates part 15142 is left footbox front - wildwood pedals (which I have)
The manual indicates a different part number for another left footbox front pedal.
The resolution of the picture of all the panels is not good enough to notice any distinguishing characteristics.
Could someone please tell me which one is in the above picture?
Thanks
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
The DS panel you have pictured is for a Mustang footbox. It has large holes near the center for the steering column and the master cylinder that mounts on front of the footbox. The DS panel you should be using with a Wilwood pedal box only has a single hole for the steering column. Typically FF ships both panels with the kit. If you didn't get the Wilwood panel, you can call and I'm sure they will send the correct one.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Exactly what Paul (EdwardB) said! I am confident that you have the other -- correct -- footbox front. I think FFR ships them all with the one you have on the car. Then, the folks that have the Wilwood upgrade, they simply add it into one of the myriad boxes. I feel confident that you have the correct one.
Exactly what Paul (EdwardB) said! I am confident that you have the other -- correct -- footbox front. I think FFR ships them all with the one you have on the car. Then, the folks that have the Wilwood upgrade, they simply add it into one of the myriad boxes. I feel confident that you have the correct one.
Keep working hard, and keep the questions coming.
Regards,
Steve
Yep learned something else today. I have all the parts organized in the boxes they came in and layed out on shelves by box number. My plan when I need a part was to find it on the pack list which indicates box number and then go get it. The panel I needed was part 15142. I looked over the pack list 3 times and that part was not listed. I went to box 6a that had all the aluminum panels and it was not in there either. Then I looked in the build manual and saw a note that the panel would be with the pedal box hardware. So I looked and sure enough it was in that box even though it was not listed in the pack list.
Lesson of the day is you may have more parts than listed on the pack list! Look in the actual boxes.
Follow up question:
Now that I am looking more carefully I notice on the list of trunk mounted aluminum it says 14810 & 14811 LH & RH Shock tower block off plate (irs only). Those were not mounted on the frame and I can't find a picture of them in the manual. I do have some unlabeled panels I have not determined what part they are. (I do have the irs option so should have these). Does anyone have a picture of these to help me identify what I'm looking for?
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
Now that I am looking more carefully I notice on the list of trunk mounted aluminum it says 14810 & 14811 LH & RH Shock tower block off plate (irs only). Those were not mounted on the frame and I can't find a picture of them in the manual. I do have some unlabeled panels I have not determined what part they are. (I do have the irs option so should have these). Does anyone have a picture of these to help me identify what I'm looking for?
I checked my inventory list, and 14810 & 14811 LH & RH Shock tower block off plate (irs only) are listed on the mounted components list. But they are lined off indicating not included or delivered. Nothing like that came up in the instructions or during the build, and I'm not sure where they would go if they did. There's nothing about the rear shock towers to block off. I'll bet these may have been used on the older IRS design. But that's only a guess.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I checked my inventory list, and 14810 & 14811 LH & RH Shock tower block off plate (irs only) are listed on the mounted components list. But they are lined off indicating not included or delivered. Nothing like that came up in the instructions or during the build, and I'm not sure where they would go if they did. There's nothing about the rear shock towers to block off. I'll bet these may have been used on the older IRS design. But that's only a guess.
Thanks Paul. Like yours mine are lined off. Good to know they don't seem to be needed during the build. I will cross that off my list and not worry about them.
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
Still working on panel drilling and removal. Looking through the instruction manual I see the logical order they need to be installed in and what tabs need to go behind what panels. Originally I was just taking the panels off that came installed on the frame. Today as I got to the rear cockpit wall I realized to drill some of those I need the other pieces that go around the back of the transmission tunnel and the pieces on the cockpit sides so I can get all the holes drilled correctly through each panel that attaches to each other. When I realized that I started getting the appropriate panels out of the box and adding them in the mix. My reasoning behind this is so I can decided every panel I want powder coated and just take them all in as one load and have them already drilled so they don't get dinged up drilling and installing later. Also, I plan to powder coat the panels black. Right now I am marking on them from the backside where I need to drill at times. Figured once they are black seeing the markings will be more difficult.
Does anyone see any reason why it is a bad idea to pre drill all the panels? I like the idea of having it done and then clean up all the holes and shavings but I want to make sure I am not missing some reason why it would be beneficial to wait.
I am getting anxious to start installing some actual parts! I figure when it comes time to reinstall the panels I will be glad they are done.
Happy 4th everyone!
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
Pre drilling is a great idea, and for the most part it works great. However, don't be too surprised if things occasionally don't match up quite like they did when you drilled them. Why? Who knows. Gremlins, moon phases, sea level, global warming, political correctness, I don't know. It will all work out. Keep doing the drilling. You are indeed wise to have everything powder coated at the same time.
Jazzman
MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.
Does anyone see any reason why it is a bad idea to pre drill all the panels? I like the idea of having it done and then clean up all the holes and shavings but I want to make sure I am not missing some reason why it would be beneficial to wait.
Drilling prior to coating is the preferred method.
I realize this is kind of off topic but I wanted to check in with you.
Wow, when you make up your mind, things get done! Glad to see you already have your kit and are working on it. I've put almost 2,000 miles on my car in the last month, mostly on the Power Tour, but also in and around Columbus, OH for the London Cobra Show. Just got home last week from the 2 track days at Mid Ohio road course. Car ran great and lots of compliments on the paint job. Yesterday, I drove the car over to Rodfathers Collision in Greensboro, GA (they painted the car). They were thrilled to see the car and took lots of pics. Also, took the car over to Golden Touch Upholstery in Conyers ... they did the carpet installation. More pics!
Garry
I sure miss my coupe!
F5R1004503SP 2004 Challenge Car, 331 Stroker
Coupe # 031, 422" Windsor stroker by Southern Automotive (Dash autographed by Peter Brock)***SOLD***
Unique 427 Roadster, 482" Aluminum FE by Southern Automotive***SOLD***
Update - in the last week I have probably drilled more holes that the previous 42 years of my life! HA
Almost done drilling and removing panels. Very excited to actually start putting parts back on. I took a break to daydream about driving today!
Fred Flintstone style feet on the ground. Having a great time with this build.
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides