-
Jazzman’s #8745 "Flip Top" Build
When I got up yesterday morning, I knew it would be a good day, but I never imagined how good. We were staying in a lovely bed-and-breakfast in Plymouth, Mass. Not a bad way to begin, but yesterday was special because my wife and I visited the Factory Five Factory in nearby Wareham. David (aka "Mad Dog) gave us a great tour. Even my wife was impressed. Their commitment to quality and service was incredible. We saw the whole place, even got to see EdwardB’s 20th Anniversary car all packaged up and ready to go.
After the tour, we sat down with Dan Golub. We worked through my build sheet, my goals, and all my questions. He patiently answered them all, even though I am pretty sure he has answered these same questions a thousand times!! I asked when he thought the next big sale was going to be, expecting “sometime this winter”. “About 2 hours” I was told!! He asked me if I wanted to know what the sale was going to be. “Sure”. Dave Smith told Dan to figure out a way to sell only five more Roadsters with all the same high quality special components as the 20th Anniversary Model, but without the special badging, the special 20th Anniversary gauge set, and without the special powder coated frame and engine bay parts. Since I really struggled with whether to buy the 20th Anniversary Model, this was a great opportunity of a second chance. Well, I am sure you can figure the end of the story – I jumped at the chance to get far more than I ever had planned at a very significant discount. He even threw in the IRS Center Section and Spindles (yes, the new take-offs that they bought from MPS!!) I certainly did not expect to place this order now. I fully expected to wait until early next year to take advantage of the next big winter sale. Oh well, I haven't stopped smiling yet! Delivery is slated for mid-October.
You need to understand that while I have been dreaming of building a Roadster for over two decades, and planning it for at least two years, I am not really a "gear head". I am a Financial Planner by trade, a carpenter by choice, and a musician at heart. I restored a 1967 Mercury Cougar over 25 years ago, but never got very deep into the mechanical side. I paid others to do that part. However, I have always had a great desire to get in and learn every nut and bolt on my car. And now, I will.
Jazzman’s MKIV Not-Quite-a-20th Anniversary Build Plan
The Goal: an updated reinterpretation of the classic AC Cobra. A modern reinterpretation of the 1965 AC 427 Cobra, incorporating current technology and engineering that improves performance, safety, convenience, comfort, and reliability. Primarily built for street-use and cruising. Must make the wife happy: i.e. noise is an issue!! Build the car Carroll Shelby might have built if he had access to our modern technology.
- Kit – Factory Five Racing – MK4 Roadster De-Badged 20th Anniversary Complete Kit.
- Engine – Coyote 5.0L
- Transmission – 5 Speed Manual, Tremec TKO-600/midshift mod., short throw shifter,
- hydraulic clutch from Forte
- .62 OD 5th Gear for “street” cruising at 75-80 mph
- Rear Suspension / Differential – Ford 2015 Mustang GT Independent Rear Suspension with 3.55 ratio
- Front Suspension - FFR Independent front suspension
- Dual Adjustable Deluxe Koni Coil over Shocks
- 2015 Front suspension Swaybar components
- Wheels – Hallibrand Replica Wheels, 18x9 front, 18x11 Rear
- Exhaust – Stainless side pipes, Possible installation of race mufflers in the header area
- Steering – Power steering – Ford 87-93 Ford Mustang V8, 3 turn ratio, Adjustable Heidt Valve
- Brakes – Willwood deluxe brakes.
- Interior –
- Traditional Big & Tall Seats.
- Breeze Seat mounts
- FFR GPS Enabled Gauge Set
- Exotic Solid Hardwood Burl dash over aluminum panel
- Matching wood shift lever knob
- 14” Leather wrapped steering wheel
- Stereo system, hidden equipment with ipad controls and blue tooth connectivity.
- Steering column mounted turn signal
- LED interior lighting:
- Footbox lighting
- Trunk light
- Under door lighting to light ground as you get out.
- Red Dash LED Gauge lighting
- Perhaps Air conditioning/Heating
- Body – Candy Apple Red or Midnight Blue Metalic with ghost stripes
- Dual Chrome Roll Bars – 1.75” Breeze Automotive Bars
- All LED lighting: Headlights, marker lights, turn signals.
- Prepare for the future installation of the Premium soft Top
- May install Hood Louvers to vent hot Arizona air.
I had originally considered attempting a tilt-front variation. However, upon reflection and wise counsel from people I trust, I decided that a man must know his own limitations. This project will have more than enough educational value and challenges for my first build. Maybe the second . . .
**EDIT** My, how things change!!
After our tour and big decision, we were starving. We went to The Gateway Tavern, and enjoyed the best Lobster Rolls I have ever eaten. I now had time to reflect on the morning. I really must take a moment to thank my precious bride of 27 years for her support of this decision. Without her immediate and unwavering support, I am quite sure I would not have taken this step this soon. I also must thank my many “friends” on this forum who have patiently answered my questions with great wisdom and insight: EdwardB, SkullandBones, CarlW, DaleG, David Hodgkins, 2bKing, too many others to name. Your encouragement and support have given me the confidence to undertake this daunting project. Finally, I want to thank Dave Smith (who I, sadly, did not get to meet yesterday, he was out of town) for creating this fine company. Your commitment to excellence and innovation, the culture of mutual support, permeate all those who have come in contact with you.
The next step is to receive your constructive criticism of my Build plan. As always, You are my trusted team of advisors. I look forward to your evaluation. Thus begins my Journey!
*** 8/22/2017 EDIT: ***
Table of Contents by Post Number:
Air Intake: #477
Battery Box (FFMetal in trunk) #70, #94, #167-168, #176, #604
Bell Housing: #376, #440, #458
Brake Lines: #109, #112, #123, #132, #141, #165
Brake Rotors: #97-108,
Brakes, Rear: #155, #157, #739-740, #746
Brake Bleeding: #230, #232
Body work: Begins at #184-186, #193, #196, #210, #222, #223, #234, #246-248, #254-255, #258, #262, #265, #268-275, #279-282, #285, #288, #292, #298, #327, #333, #574, #608, #627-628, #629-630, #635, #694, #714, #719, #735-736, #740, #752, #754, #770
Bolt Markings: #77, #80
Buss Bars: #170
Bumper Mounting, Front: #640-644, #649-654, #659, #669, #673
Carpet: #693, #727, #730, #760-
Clutch: #165, #364-366, #370, #375, #440, #441, #450, #453, #458
Clutch Bottom Switch: #348
Clutch, Hydraulic actuator: #453, #461-465
CV Axels: #155
Dash Board: #485, #488, #493, #501-502, #515, #519, #619
Differential: #40, #64, #137, #148
Differential Vent: #137, #148
Drive Shaft: #484
Drive Shaft Safety Loop: #181, #484
Elephant Ears (Custom Split): #320-321
Engine: #340, #352-363, #375, #434-435, #441, #442, #459, Install: #470-471, First Start: #543-558,
Engine Lift Plates: (Coyote) #480
Engine Mounts: #408, #442, #450
Exhaust Pipes: #524
Fibreglass: #236-238, #255, #292
Frame Dolly: #20
Front Hubs #71
Fuel Filter: #112, #120
Fuel Lines: #112, #120, #127-#128, #137, #159, #161, #387-392, #411, #477
Fuel Pressure Regulator: #387-392, #408
Fuel Tank: #64
Heim Joints: #78
Headers: #461
Heater Hoses: #520
Hood Fabrication: #247
Hood Latches: #315-318, #323, #327-328, #334, #598, #639, #673
Hood Scoop: #298, #751
Ignition System: #487, #497-500, #525, #538, #559
IRS: #40
Leatherwork: #692, #729
Lights: #598, #692
Master Cylinders: #58, #165, #604
Master Electrical Cut-off Switch: #169, #171-174
Paint: #592, #674-
Pedals: #58, #437, #467
Quick Jack (rear) modification: #54, #64
Radiator: #502, #507-509, #510-512, #521, #524-#533, #535-537, #539, #541-542
Reservoirs, Fluid: #121-122, #228-229, #485, #502-506, #515
Ribs (hood stiffeners): #258-259, #265, #282, #284, #288, #304
Roll Bars: #629, #635-637
Seats: #618-619
Seat Belts: #618-619, #740
Seat Heaters: #726
Sheet Metal: #64, #70, #77, #145, #149, #194, #197-199, #205-209, #487, #519, #587, #602-604, #746, #759
Shocks: #71
Side Vents: #299
Spindles, Rear: #138
Sound/Head suppression: #59
Starter: #442
Steering, Power: #85, #90, #91
Steering, Power Pump: #410-411, #510, #521, #534
Stereo/Speakers: #689, #726, #743
Sway bar (Front): #56
Sway Bar (Rear): #78, #79
Suspension, Front: #35, #49, #71, #85, #91, #94, #112
Suspension, Rear: #460
“Teeth” and “Jaws”: #246, #248, #289, #302, #324, #333
ThermoTec: #59
Tilt Front Hinge system: #211-217, #220, #227, #235, #285, #306-308, #501, #607, #659
Tires: #220, #230
Towing: #624
Transmission: #340, #362, #519
Truss Fabrication and mounting: #196, #226 #235, #262, #299, #302, #608, #746, #751
Trunk modification (Dropped Trunk): #85, #86, #87, #94, #145
Trunk Supports, Hidden: #693
Windshield: #758
Wiring: #152-156, #175, #180, #345-346, #367, #393, #409-411, #417-418, #421-433, #436, #441, #458, #477, #480-481, #497-500, #519-522, #525, #538, #541-542, #566-568, #580, #609-616, #659, #662-668, #692, #739, #743, #747
So what would I do differently? LET'S SEE!!
Stopped at Page 20, Post #770
Last edited by Jazzman; 05-23-2018 at 06:44 PM.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 2 Thanks, 2 Likes
-
Senior Member
Congratulations on your purchase and upcoming build! Sounds like you got a great deal, and your build plan sounds awesome. And thanks too for the picture of my new 20th anniversary build sitting in the rack ready to go! It will be in our trailer on it's way back to Michigan next week.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
-
Hey Jazzman, First off, congratulations on taking the big step. The only bad part of the journey is now looking you in the face, namely, waiting for your kit to arrive. I am also one of the "Lucky Five" who is going nutso waiting for my kit. I will pick it up near the end of September. Living in Maine, I will not venting off any heat coming from the engine.
I am thinking we need to come up with a name for the "almost a 20th Anniversary Models". How about "20th Anniversary Stealth Model".
Rick
-
Senior Member
Congrats! Sound like am awesome build and a great day!
-
Senior Member
How fun! Congratulations!
-
Congratulations on your order and I think your options are right on. Maybe the "Stealth 5" should get together and decide on a unique color for frame and panels so you have something special also and a set of gauges with a special logo on the dials too. Post a lot of pictures.
-
You see, Rick, this is why this is such a great forum!! Great Idea. Your creativity in names much better than mine. At the moment, I only know of you and I that are in this category, so I think we have a quorum. All in favor of calling them the "20th Anniversary Stealth" say Aye? All opposed? The Aye's have it. We are now the 20th Anniversary Stealth 5! As much as I would be excited to have it arrive quickly, I really am going to need every minute of the next two months to get ready. My original mental target delivery date was May of 2016!
Good idea, King, perhaps the "Stealth 5" should discuss some uniqueness that will set us apart. Rick, Build plans?
I have a lot of time and very little to do . . . no, wait, reverse that! Now out to the shop to begin the very long punch list to prepare for my new delivery.
-
cobra Handler
Hi Kevin,
So happy you got that once in a lifetime deal. Being in the right place at the right time is fun. Hope we get to talk more next time but enjoyed meeting you at the "5 and diner" with the other guys.
Good luck on your build,
WEK.
FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046
-
Wow, Talking about a challenge. Getting the Stealth Five to agree to a common build would be near impossible. One heck of a neat idea. Perhaps we can agree on one really unique option that would ID the car as a Stealth Five. Man this is going to be a hoot. I will submit my build plan soon.
Rick
-
If I had the money I would join your special club... I would love a stealth 5 myself. Give me 2 years or less and Ill be able to afford one.
Congrats on the great buy, I don't see much from your order that I don't want myself! I probably won't go with the wood dash, but other than that it's very close to what I want
-
Senior Member
I want the 33 hot rod, but I just started on my Mk4. Maybe in a year or two...
-
Member
Jazzman congratulations! I had placed my order for a complete kit prior to attending this years open house at FFR. While enroute to Wareham i received notice that the 20th Anniv. kit was available (I was sitting in the Atlanta airport). Having researched manufacturers of Cobras since 1993 (22 years) I knew FFR was for me. So, while at the airport I quickly called FFR and revised my complete kit to the Anniv. kit. I was the first to call so lucky me, I got serial number 2 (#1 is being donated by FFR to the Ohio club for their generous support and fund raising donations to Cystic Fibrosis research). Edwardb and I have shared our excitement and anxious anticipation to begin our builds. He is picking his up at FFR i must wait for delivery :-( Good luck on your build and keep us posted on your progress Im sure we will all have fun and enjoy the journey.
-
Carl
Jazzman,
Congratulations and we look forward to lots of photos an videos as you build that thing.
Carl
Mk 4 Roadster
October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
March 26, 2016 - Go Cart
-
Dude, you described the exact car that I want to build - even down to the color (check out Stig's GTM build - he's chosen a BMW color that looks black until sunlight hits it and you see the dark blue sparkle come out - that would look mighty slick with some ghosted white (or silver) stripes). I'll be watching your build very closely.
-
Congratulations Bob! I will look forward to reading your build thread.
-
The following has no real educational value regarding building a FFR kit. I put it in only as a reminder to myself as I look back on this journey as one small step - backward!
In order to get ready for my upcoming delivery (from FFR!) I have to complete the Murphy bed that I am building for the guest room. I think it is coming along pretty well.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44293&d=1439172833)
Well, lets just say that a table saw, a 1" wide stack of dado blades, and a left hand, when improperly combined is not a pleasant combination.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44292&d=1439172833)
This is going to slow down the preparation process a bit!!
Last edited by Jazzman; 11-10-2015 at 06:50 PM.
-
Not a waxer
Oh man, I can sympathize with you. Did the same to my left index and middle fingers about 20 years ago, also with a dado. Those suckers will really grab the wood and take you with it (right through the knuckle while doing so). Please don't be the dumb a$$ that I am though---10 years later I did the same two fingers
My wife's response when I called her from the hospital..."Again?".
Sincerely wishing you a speedy recovery.
Jeff
-
I too can sympathize with you and feel your pain. I have a similar experience. About 5 years ago I cut the tips off my left index and middle fingers on my table saw while thinking I was being very careful. I didn't feel a thing but felt a vibration in my hand then jerked my hand away in the wrong direction allowing the blade to cut a second slice. It took three months to heal and I still have numb finger tips and different looking finger nails. I had to force myself to use the saw again. The brain didn't like it.
I hope you heal fast with every thing intact.
Last edited by 2bking; 08-10-2015 at 10:15 AM.
-
Senior Member
Bob, this sounds like a great plan and one that is fully thought out. Take your time on this one and enjoy it all the way. The build is arguably one of the best experiences. Like all things there are good days and bad days but walking by it every day and looking at it is just amazing. If you have any questions, feel free to PM us or post it here. We're here to help!
-
Ah, Life, thou art fickle! It has been an amazing month of ups and downs. A handful plus 1 of events, mostly less than positive, have conspired to delay the delivery of my kit. The best piece of news is that my eldest son starts his new job Monday. The downside is the he is moving 400 miles away. This exciting/intimidating life change for him has take a lot of time and focus off of other projects. The Murphy Bed is still unfinished, but is all ready for stain and finish. The garage is rearranged, new lights are installed. Electrical lines are installed. Vacuum lines are completed, air hose lines are installed. Tonight, I finally finished the Frame dolly. Thank you to whomever designed this simple dolly. (Carl, did I get this from you? or was it King? My apologies to the designer.) It works great, and is 18.5" tall.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45562&d=1442723077)
While I am eager to begin, I am just as glad that delivery is not until mid November. Even with that much time, I still have a lot to do to get ready!
-
Good morning Bob,
I too, have completed my dolly and body buck. I will pick up my Stealth 5 on 01 October. My Forte engine will go on the dyno this coming week. Beyond excited at this point, especially with Edwards fantastic updates on his "real 20th Edition. He will b saving us a lot of time in the "figuring it out" process. I will be a frequent contributor on this forum as I start my build.
rick
-
Hi Rick -
Lucky you to be so close that you get the joy of picking up your car from the Factory! It's a bit too much of a drive for me, though I wish I had the free time to do it. Pictures, we need pictures of your pickup! I am also eager to hear/see your new power plant. You are going to be well ahead of me. I don't plan to order my engine until mid next year. I don't want to be stumbling over it for the next many months. I hope someday to meet Edwardb (Paul). I certainly owe him dinner for all his assistance. T-10 days for you. We all look forward to your build thread. Safe travels to you.
Kevin
-
-
I spoke to Jolene at Stewart Trucking. (She really is as nice as everyone says she is!) She said there are two trucks headed for Wareham, MA, but they won't be loaded and back on the road until Friday or Monday. This makes delivery just before Thanksgiving a likelihood. I will certainly have one more thing to be thankful for!! You all said the last week or two of waiting is the worst, and you are right!! I just can't wait for delivery day!!
-
Administrator
FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)
-
Delivery Day!
As if my God, my Family, and this amazing Country were not enough reason for Thanksgiving, today I received one more reason for thanks: Don from Stewart Trucking would be at my home to deliver my Roadster today. I had hoped in would arrive this week, but had learned that it did not get picked up until last Thursday. Don had scheduled delivery for next Sunday, five days from now. He made an amazing cross country "Cannonball Run" in order to get home for Thanksgiving. He was so fast that he arrived a full day early, and had time to deliver my car today. So at 2:03, he drove in right on schedule. I can already tell from the number of boxes that there are a few things on backorder, but I have enough to keep me out of trouble for a while. It's going to be a great weekend: Turkey, family, more turkey, more family, inventory, inventory, inventory . . .
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48003&d=1448497020)
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48004&d=1448497021)
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48005&d=1448497021)
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48006&d=1448497022)
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48008&d=1448497024)
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48009&d=1448497025)
Last edited by Jazzman; 01-01-2016 at 08:01 PM.
-
Administrator
Awwwwrrrriiiiigggghhhhtttt!!!
Congrats!
FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)
-
Senior Member
Cool! Let the fun begin. Enjoy.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
-
Opening Moves
It has been a rather productive 2 1/2 days. Inventory took quite a while. I am missing about 25 pieces, including some major ones like spindles, hubs, and Willwood brakes. (I had read there was a long delay on Anniversary model brakes, but I was not aware there would be any delay on the 6 piston Red Caliper Willwoods like I had ordered. ) I sent a lengthy email to FFR, but I don't expect to hear anything at all till next week. I took the day off, why shouldn't they!! Oh well, I have enough to keep me out of trouble!
My assistants helped me get the body off and moved to the buck in the back yard. (I decided having to stumble over it for the next 2 years would drive me nuts, so I moved the buck to the backyard and will cover the body.) I was surprised to find that this was a very easy process.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48055&d=1448695307)
I began removing the aluminum panels, and discovered a couple of nice surprises. Because I am using the Coyote Engine, I ordered the special aluminum panels for that engine. It looks like FFR was inspired by 2bking's excellent drivers foot box modifications for the Coyote motor. I haven't taken the time to put my photos along side King's to see how similar the design is, but it looks like they have really improved the space utilization inside the drivers foot box.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48058&d=1448695309)
FFR has also revised the other side of the drivers foot box to add a bit more space. There is no longer any need to do the modification that so many have done to add space for the drivers left foot when not on the clutch. It only pops out about an inch, but seems to add quite a bit of useable space inside. Here is an outside and inside view.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48057&d=1448695308)
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48056&d=1448695307)
Here is the current state of the frame as I head off to bed:
Last edited by Jazzman; 01-01-2016 at 08:03 PM.
-
![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png)
Originally Posted by
Jazzman
I began removing the aluminum panels, and discovered a couple of nice surprises. Because I am using the Coyote Engine, I ordered the special aluminum panels for that engine. It looks like FFR was inspired by 2bking's excellent drivers foot box modifications for the Coyote motor. I haven't taken the time to put my photos along side King's to see how similar the design is, but it looks like they have really improved the space utilization inside the drivers foot box.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48058&d=1448695309)
I'm glad they fixed the Coyote sheet metal and it looks like they got almost as much space back as mine did. I won't have to email files anymore.
DSCF4283d.JPG
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
-
Not a waxer
Jazz,
Congrats! Just as an FYI, in case you are not aware the driver's footbox front panes that you show in the photos is for use with a donor pedalbox. The proper one should be in one of your boxes.
Have fun,
Jeff
-
Senior Member
Looking really good. Those footbox changes are nice. Just since 4 months ago from when mine was delivered. Interesting how they keep making improvements to the design. BTW, your Wilwood brakes wouldn't have been with the shipment. They are drop shipped to you directly from Wilwood. But FF should be able to give you a promise date.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
-
Senior Member
Kyle
Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, Painted Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes on 03/15/2017. Sold in 08/2018 and totally regret it.
-
Thanks Jeff. In the back of my feeble memory I think I knew that, but with my luck, I would have PC'ed the one in the photo, then found the correct one later! Thanks for saving me from making a really stupid mistake.
Thanks, Paul, for the word on the Willwoods. I wish there had been some notification of that information, but it really doesn't slow me down yet. I have plenty to keep me busy.
-
Some may wonder why I am keeping this build log. I have little to offer when compared to the depth of experience that others show daily on this forum. However, I will make mistakes and learn lessons that these "experts" will not make. Therefore, I keep this log in the hope that the less experienced builders will be able to learn from my "rookie" mistakes.
After Jeff Kleiner's reminder about the "wrong" panel on the DS footbox, I double checked that I had the right one. I did not, so this is one more thing to talk to FFR about this week. Thanks again for the heads up Jeff.
I spent yesterday painting the "pumpkin". I decided to install this first just so that I could stop stumbling over it in the garage. Since I have not yet found POR-15, I decided to take the suggestion of others and just use Rust-o-leum. I chose the paint specifically formulated for automotive applications. I taped off the Aluminum cover, and gave the cast iron case a thorough coat of self-etching primer. After this dried, I laid on two coats of Gloss Black per the instructions. I have to say it turned out very nice. I turned it over to decide what needed to be done on the aluminum cover, and this is when I learned why people use POR-15 (or powder coating when they can): rattle can paint doesn't stand up to anything! It scuffed on the cardboard that it was sitting on. Hmmm . . .
I installed the front lower control arms. I found that I had to shorten slightly one of the metal bushing rods to make it fit into the available space. A few minutes with the grinding wheels and it fit just fine. I decided to coat all the surfaces with Mobil 1 Synthetic grease to begin the lubrication process as well as making assembly easier. It worked. It slipped together with no particular drama. I have not yet fully lubed the grease zerts because I discovered it is possible, but NOT beneficial, to cross thread the grease zert as you install it. I will have to go buy another one, and perhaps a larger one, rethread the hole, and get it put together.
Tool lesson: know what torque range you need when you buy a torque wrench. I bought a brand new Craftsman a few months ago. It has a torque range of 10-75 ft lbs. This can be entirely helpful if you need such ranges, however, when you need to torque nuts to 100-110 ft lbs, it is utterly useless. Now I will be the proud owner of two torque wrenches. I will go get one that takes me up to 200 or so ft lbs.
I discovered an anomaly. I don't think it is a problem, but it was surprising. On the PS lower control arm I used one washer on each arm, both placed toward the center.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48178&d=1448864879)
On the DS lower control arm, I still used two washers, but they both were needed on the rearward arm. I checked the spacing of the mounting brackets, and they were both equal on the PS, but on the DS the front one was slightly more narrow and the rear one was slightly larger than their counterparts on the PS. There is no slop on either side, so I don't think it will make any difference.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48179&d=1448864880)
I also noticed that the DS lower ball joint does not seem to sit correctly. It was installed by FFR before I got it. When compared to the PS lower ball joint, it seems to be angled toward the back of the vehicle too much. I am not sure what, if anything, should be done about it.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48180&d=1448864882)
Without spindles or shocks, I can't really go much further on the front suspension. I moved to the IRS lower control arms. I had to adjust the width of three of the metal bushing, handled just like the fronts. Once I got both Lower control arms installed, I realized that I had neglected to grease them before installation. Out they came. I decided not to reinstall them until the "Pumpkin" is installed.
Last edited by Jazzman; 11-30-2015 at 01:44 AM.
-
![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png)
Originally Posted by
Jazzman
I also noticed that the DS lower ball joint does not seem to sit correctly. It was installed by FFR before I got it. When compared to the PS lower ball joint, it seems to be angled toward the back of the vehicle too much. I am not sure what, if anything, should be done about it.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48180&d=1448864882)
Don't worry, they are tight but movable. The ball in the joint allows them to move in all directions.
-
One of the debates I had with myself prior to ordering my kit was whether to buy the complete kit or get the donor kit and add the necessary parts. I am just barely started, but I am VERY glad that I chose the complete kit. It comes down to not knowing what I don't know. The complete kit is supposed to have everything, so I shouldn't miss anything. If I choose to deviate from the provided parts, I can do so. If you are a newbie like me, buy the complete kit! Just one man's opinion.
-
Thanks King! I told you I would make "Newbie" mistakes.
-
Senior Member
Good progress! It's an interesting learning experience to be sure. 2bking is absolutely right about those lower ball joints. They are really tight initially. Once you drop the spindles on, you can move them around pretty easily. When I first read your update without seeing the pictures I was afraid they weren't pressed in properly. But they look fine. Not sure what's happening with those front tabs. You're not the first I've seen who've had to put a selection of washers in there. I haven't personally experienced that though. Couple of comments/suggestions. I would be a little careful about adjusting the lengths of the bushings. First make sure the tabs on the chassis are square and parallel. Not unusual at all for them to be slightly off. I'm guessing due to the heat of welding. You can "adjust" them quite easily with a large adjustable wrench. Just pinch 'em and give a little push or pull. It could be possible to squeeze the joint and restrict movement by getting the bushings too short. Should be a last resort IMO. You will need a torque wrench with 250 ft/lbs for the front spindle nuts and the rear axle nuts. I have several torque wrenches, but had to go buy yet another to get that capacity. For the Wilwood brakes, the hat to rotor bolts are supposed to be 155 in/lbs. That's at the whole other end of the spectrum. Most paints wouldn't hold up to being directly contacted on cardboard or whatever given the weight of the pumpkin. Once I had mine painted, I kept it suspended off the mounting lugs. If you do want to buy some POR-15, Summit Racing has a full selection. I used this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/poi-45408/overview/
Last edited by edwardb; 11-30-2015 at 08:12 AM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
-
IRS Differential Installation
Today I got the differential put into place. I did not say I got it bolted in place, but it is in. I used the motorcycle jack that I have been stumbling over for five years to lift the differential and rotate it into place. (I had several times decided to get rid of that thing! Glad I didn't.) My wonderful wife provided the second set of hands. (She's a great wife!!)
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48254&d=1449030488)
To lift the rear of the differential into place, I rigged a ratcheted tie down strap to slowly lift and hold the part while I put in the bolts. The first rear bolt went in rather easily, but the second one was very tight. I used a bar clamp to pull the differential ever so slightly to the DS, then the bolt went into the threads. It was still very tight, but with some effort I was able to get the bolt mostly in.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48255&d=1449030489)
I left the bolts loose per the instructions. Now I see another issue. The differential is not tight, but very close, at the rear, but this leaves a very significant gap between the front mounting point on the differential and the bushing that is on the frame. It is easily wide enough to accommodate an 1/8" washer to fill the gap, but the kit didn't come with any washers for this particular part of the build.
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48256&d=1449030491)
![](http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48257&d=1449030492)
To make matters even more challenging, the bolts provided for the front mounting location seem to be too big. The manifest lists part #15962 as an M14-2.0 x 100 MM flange head bolts for the rear mounting bolts. (They were the right size and length.) The manifest lists part #15963 as an M16-2.0 x 130MM flange head bolt. The problem is that the M16 bolt seems to big to go through the front holes in the differential. I don't know if it will fit into the bushing sleeve on the frame. There is not enough room on that side to get the bolt straight with the sleeve to see if it fits. I am freezing the bolts right now to see if I can get just enough contraction to make them go into the holes. Also, if two of the bolts thread directly into the differential case with no nut and are size M14, and the other two bolts get a nut on the back side but are size M16, why do I have four deformed thread flanged locknuts in size M16? What are the two extras for?
I also got the IRS lower control arms installed. After doing the front ones, it was pretty straightforward. A little grease, both real and elbow, and they both slipped right in.
I had a very lengthy phone call with Tony at FFR today. He certainly reinforced my decision to buy from FFR. He was great! Patient, helpful, and knowledgeable. We went through my entire list of missing parts. Many he already knew, and are already on order to be drop shipped to me. It will be a few days to several weeks before some of the parts arrive. He agreed with Jeff Kleiner, I do have the wrong front panel for the drivers footbox. He is sending another one. He is also sending the other various parts that are currently available. I really appreciate the absolutely top-notch customer service from FFR.
Last edited by Jazzman; 01-01-2016 at 08:05 PM.