mach'er Mk4 #9146 Roadster Build (Complete Kit, 363W, TKO, IRS)

[Straversi]

Well, I didn't get as far as I would have liked over the weekend. I got to this point:

RH


LH



I ran into a couple minor questions:
1. Parts list calls out a LH and RH steering arm, but I can't tell any difference between the two parts. Therefore, I just mounted them without regard to LH and RH.
Question: Should there be two unique parts with some discernible difference?

2. Upper control arm initial adjustment... I put this question in Yama-Bro's thread on his UCA assembly, and will look to see if an answer gets posted there.

Other issues I dealt with (not really questions, unless someone wants to give input):
3. Castle nuts too far engaged on upper ball joints (similar to this discussion from a '33 build thread). The spindle seats on the upper ball joint, it's just too far engaged for the height of the castle nuts relative to where the cotter pin hole is located. I've decided to get some spacers to put in place, similar to the lower ball joints. I think a spacer should take care of the problem.

4. Tightening the rear bolt for the upper control arm mount. I had difficulty getting a wrench on the nut behind the mounting flange for the rear nut. I was able to get it torqued to spec, but clearance back there is pretty bad. Just did the best I could, and got creative using a tool wedged between the nut and bracket to prevent the nut from spinning while torqueing the bolt.


I'm using the paint mark method on each fastener as I torque it to spec, both as an indicator that I've torqued a given fastener, but also to provide a visual clue of any movement once the vehicle is in use.

After I get the spacers for the upper control arm ball joints, I hope to get the front hubs and brakes installed this week. I'd like to be working on the rear end this weekend (I hope).

Thanks, guys. Let me know if you think anything looks wonky in the pics of my assemblies so far.
--Curt

There is a left and a right steering arm. The tie rod ends have tapered shafts and the the holes in the steering arms are tapered as well. The taper is slight and easy to miss. I did.

My kit had a thick washer between the UCA and the castle nut and a thicker spacer for the lower. I didn't need to change anything on the upper. The thick spacer for the lower has a bevel on the inside hole on one side. The bevel is supposed to be on the bottom. If not the cotter pin will be difficult to align. I missed that one too.

-Steve

[edwardb]

Your assembly looks OK as far as I can tell. For the steering arms, just make sure they are pointed out (as yours are) and the large side of the taper in the tie rod holes is down. All good from there. As I recall, this does end up with them being backwards as marked. But I'm not positive. It's been a couple years since I've assembled those. The same spindles are used on the hot rod where they are front steer, which I guess explains the marking difference. The rear bolt for the UCA is fun for everyone. I have a wrench ground down to fit in there.

[dncharo]

We are at a similar stage in our build and just ran into the same issues you brought up. At first I thought that we had 2 of the same steering arms as well and even contacted factory five to try and get the right part. But after looking at them about 100 times, I saw that they were slightly different. Like mentioned above, the hole is tapered and the large side goes down. The other difference I noticed is that there is a slight bevel along the portion of the steering arm that contacts the spindle on the bottom. They should also point out as Paul mentioned. Of course, the book doesn't mention any of this, and I hadn't seen these issues brought up on prior threads.
I can't help in terms of UCA initial adjustment, but can say that the lack of adjustment becomes more apparent once the rotors go on. Have fun with the brakes next, the Wilwood instructions are actually pretty good...
-David

[mach'er]

Steering arms swapped (I had a 50/50 shot, and missed). Spacers in & UCA ball joints fastened, hubs installed, dust cap tapped on.

On to front brakes...

I really appreciate it guys. I would have eventually progressed to installing the outer tie rod ends, and been pulling my hair out about that taper.

[mach'er]

My youngest daughter got her braces put on today. I had to take her to the orthodontist so I took the morning off work, which gave me a couple of hours in the garage before her appointment.

I had previously assembled my rotors/hats and done the safety wire, so it was pretty much just bolting stuff together.

I found the Wilwood instructions quite good, and the installation was rather straightforward. I ended up with two of the 0.035" and one 0.022" shim on each bolt of the RH caliper, and two 0.035" shims for the LH caliper bolts in order to center the rotor in the brake calipers. My vernier calipers showed variation in the 4 thinner shims, from 0.015" to 0.022" - with no two the same. The 8 thicker shims were all within a spread of two thousandths of an inch (0.034 to 0.036"). For the thinner ones that I used on the car, I chose two that were as close as possible, given what I had.

I wish I would have read dncharo's build thread update before doing the front brake assembly. He ended up using the 12-point bolts included in the F5 kit. I used the 6-point bolts from the Wilwood set-up. Using the 6-point bolts resulted in difficult access to the top spindle to bracket bolt on each side, and the bolt extends further past the outside face of the bracket. Tonight, I'll have to look to see how close the end of those bolts are relative to the hat and safety wires.

Here's where I ended up:





I was very excited to mount the wheels, even if it was just temporary. I called my daughter out to the garage to look. Maybe it was the impending orthodontic appointment, but she was not as enthusiastic as I was about seeing the wheel mounted.



There was significant clearance between the caliper and the weights they used to balance the tires. It wasn't even close - so I didn't measure it.

I was going to start with the rear differential, but braces had to be installed as well - so off to the orthodontists we went.

And finally, a thought for today... It is pretty freaking cool that there are several of us across the country going through this process almost contemporaneously, and having this forum to assist us - leveraging the knowledge of those that walked this path before us, and sharing our own experiences. Its almost cheating in a way. But I'll take it. Happily. Whoever built the first one... Man, I feel sorry for him.

[Straversi]

I was very excited to mount the wheels, even if it was just temporary. I called my daughter out to the garage to look. Maybe it was the impending orthodontic appointment, but she was not as enthusiastic as I was about seeing the wheel mounted.

Well, that's what we are here for. You will get a nod of appreciation from the family for the big milestone moments, but if you want some instant gratification for mounting wheels, flash a photo on the forum and we'll respond. I never get tired of seeing photos of other people's projects. Where else can you describe safety wiring bots together and get enthusiastic responses?
And if you are ever feeling discouraged, just flash a photos of those Webber stacks of yours and know that 50 or more gearheads are saying "DAMN" simultaneously.

-Steve

[mach'er]

Made it out to the garage tonight, with plans to start working on the rear end. Started by drilling out the holes (chasing, per the assembly manual) on the front mounting holes of the differential with the 5/8" drill bit. I used the same drill bit that I used to drill out the rear knuckles. I decided the bit must be dull, because it wanted to do nothing but grab, in a mean spirited attempt to break my wrist or something. So, off to the store I went, and came home with new 9/16" and 5/8" drill bits. Figured I'd step it, and hopefully not have so much grabbage. Only to find out that the hole was just over 9/16" to begin with. So, straight to the 5/8" I went. And low and behold, sharp/new drill bit had no problem. Holes chased.

Next in the manual was the rear hubs, and replacing the wheel studs. I went to town with my hammer, and the original ones came out lickety-split.





Then, pulled out my air gun, a spacer, and a lug nut. Problem...






Even with my air gun at it's 350 ft-lb setting, its not pulling the wheel lugs on all the way (as you can see above).

Do I dare apply greater than 350 ft-lbs of torque to those threads? I think I'm already cooking with gas, relative to what they should see. So, in my mind, that is out.

Therefore, I think I'm going to have to relent, and take them in somewhere that has a press, who is equipped to push these suckers in the rest of the way.

My local tire store, Belle Tire, is open till 8 tonight. I think I'll pack up and head there, and see if they can get it done (it is a first come-first serve type place). However, I'd love to hear what I'm doing wrong, if I'm doing anything wrong. In case they can't get to me before closing time. Or, so I know for next time.

[edwardb]

I was able to get mine to pull in with my impact driver that is considerably less than 350 ft/lbs rated. Couple of recommendations. Get a couple of large grade 8 washers and a hardened nut. Don't use the lug nut. At the very least you'll chew it up in the process. Put plenty of grease on the washers and hardened nut, and try again. I just had mine on the workbench, not even in a vise. The impact action of the wrench pulled them into place, but it took a little while for each. If that doesn't work, I'd find a place to have them pressed in.

[RickP]

Put the whole hub in your freezer overnight and try again using EdwardB’s method. I bet they pull right in.

[Ducky2009]

Put the whole hub in your freezer overnight and try again using EdwardB’s method. I bet they pull right in.

Chilling it will shrink it. Need to heat it, except you have bearings to consider! I wouldn't do it.

[2bking]

There was significant clearance between the caliper and the weights they used to balance the tires. It wasn't even close - so I didn't measure it.

The first time I had mine balanced, they put the flat weights with adhesive backing on the wheels for both inner and outer rims. In the process of removing and reattaching the wheels, several of the inner rim weights were scraped off by the calipers so I had to have them rebalanced. The tire place suggested they use the clip-on weights for the inside rim which I agreed to. Since then, no more weight problems and no one can see them being on the inside rim.

[mach'er]

The tire place wouldn't do it. They said they couldn't perform work on customer parts. And then, they proceeded to tell me that the wheel studs were the wrong size anyway, and that I should buy the right parts. So, home I went.

Paul: Once I got home, I saw your post. Using greased washers & a nut worked great - and at a lower torque setting on my air wrench. Thanks! I have 3 lug nuts that I'd like to replace before using them (live and learn).

King: Yes, they used those adhesive backed weights on my wheels. I'll have to keep an eye on them to make sure I don't have a similar problem. Thanks for the tip.


My weekend goal: Complete IRS and rear brake installation, get the firewall & drivers side footbox front installed, and get at least a bit of a start on the pedal box. I hope to pick-up my second batch of aluminum panels from the powder coater - although he hasn't told me he's done yet. I think I'll also be ordering the Koolmat kits from Breeze, to be ready as for that footbox panel. We'll see how far I get relative to that plan.

Have a great weekend.

-Curt

[Yama-Bro]

And finally, a thought for today... It is pretty freaking cool that there are several of us across the country going through this process almost contemporaneously, and having this forum to assist us - leveraging the knowledge of those that walked this path before us, and sharing our own experiences. Its almost cheating in a way. But I'll take it. Happily. Whoever built the first one... Man, I feel sorry for him.

I totally agree. I've taken advantage of the others' questions a few times already.

[mach'er]

Well, I didn't get as far as I planned. Looks like I need to be more realistic in my planning.

I did get my differential installed. I used the single person, engine hoist method, stolen from Paul's build thread. I ended up using three ratchet straps. One around the rear mounting ears, one around the front mounting ears, and one around the differential housing near the pinion flange. After lifting the differential, and having it hanging parallel to the ground (similar to final installed angle), I used the front strap (near the pinion flange) to tilt the diff up. Then, using the ratchet straps, pretty much just followed the manual's directions to get it into place - gradually playing with the ratchet of the front ratchet strap, the hydraulics of the engine hoist, and muscling the hoist forward - instead of having more than one set of hands.



(Yes, that is still the yellow plastic plug. I haven't installed the vent fitting yet.)




Then, I moved on to the IRS control arms. I have an e-mail into the FFR customer service team, because my LH IRS UCA and one of the IRS Toe Arms seem to have problems. I'm waiting to hear back from them, and am going to reserve any comment on my issue with those two parts until I hear something back from FFR.

I figured I still could do the RH side, since it's UCA and one Toe Arm was fine. So, forward I pushed, trying to get the RH half done.

However, I'm having a problem aligning the RH IRS lower control arm, and stopped when my frustration level was high. I currently have the forward bolt fully through, with the nut loosely installed - but the rear bolt is through the first flange and through the bushing, but does not align with the second flange. I've had some thoughts over the past 24+ hours, and will attack it again tonight. I'll throw up some pictures of this, if I still get nowhere.

However, figured I'd preemptively ask... Does the sequence of which bolt you put through first matter when attaching the IRS lower control arm? Has anyone else had a problem with alignment of the LCA to chassis mounting holes?

Thanks.
--Curt

[mach'er]

I mirrored the assembly manual illustration, to make it look like the RH side. Here's my problem:


That rear bolt is at an angle to the axis of the two chassis mounting bracket holes. Rotating the LCA moves it (grey is front face of bolt, black circle is through hole on bracket), but not to a position that goes through the hole (blue arrow). Here's my best word art drawing of what's going on.




Anyway, any thoughts would be appreciated. But, I'll be back out in the garage tonight trying to muscle it some more.

Thanks.

[Straversi]

It has been a while but I had similar frustrations. I measured and realized my flanges were not parallel. Just slightly off but enough to keep the assembly from going together. I slid a large crescent wrench over the flanges a gave a little tug and they were easily manipulated into place. Talk to FFR first and maybe others will chime in but that was my experience.
-Steve

[aks801]

So. The Jim Inglese system. I would like to hear more about your experience so far: ordering, configuring, so on. That system is the one I have coveted for a long time, and I waffle between that and dual quads. But the Webers are my ultimate, and for me they would go on a Dart block-based 331. And I do realize you will have more so say once you actually get the engine running and whatnot.

Thanks.

[2bking]

Have you tried to install the outer one first. The rubber in the outer one may be forgiving enough that the inner one can be muscled into place since the bolt lines up there.

[mach'er]

RH LCA is on. I ended up taking it off, putting on the rear bolt first, then the front. Gave the UCA a quick shot, but it looks like it is going to need some patience as well. So, I think it will wait a day or two. Cause I’m about out of IRS patience for tonight. I’m going to need to do some repairs with POR-15 in a few spots.

Trick or treating is tomorrow with my youngest. So, that’ll give me a night off of busted knuckles on this IRS linkage stuff. Then back to it on Wednesday. I’m going as Waldo (of Where’s Waldo fame). Good Dad. With a skull mask. Bad Dad.

[Mark Eaton]

I mirrored the assembly manual illustration, to make it look like the RH side. Here's my problem:


That rear bolt is at an angle to the axis of the two chassis mounting bracket holes. Rotating the LCA moves it (grey is front face of bolt, black circle is through hole on bracket), but not to a position that goes through the hole (blue arrow). Here's my best word art drawing of what's going on.




Anyway, any thoughts would be appreciated. But, I'll be back out in the garage tonight trying to muscle it some more.

Thanks.

Curt,

The rear UCA and LCA were really difficult. I fought with those things for hours! These helped



I think they were 5/8" or M12, I have several which I ground down. When you get the bushings and mounting brackets somwhere in the neighborhood like your images that you are showing hammer these mothers in all the way. They will help align the control arms with the brackets, then hammer them out and hammer in the bolts. It worked for me.

Goodluck,

Mark

[wareaglescott]

Hang in there. I feel like I had won a battle once I got that IRS completely installed! The center section went in like butter and then every other piece fought me hard! Enjoy the night off.

[mach'er]

So. The Jim Inglese system. I would like to hear more about your experience so far: ordering, configuring, so on. That system is the one I have coveted for a long time, and I waffle between that and dual quads. But the Webers are my ultimate, and for me they would go on a Dart block-based 331. And I do realize you will have more so say once you actually get the engine running and whatnot.

Thanks.

Jim's induction system has been super easy so far - probably because all the hard stuff is still to come. Ordering and configuring was a breeze. When calling, Jim answers his own phone, and seems super friendly and willing to be as helpful as required. After I told him it was for a FFR MkIV, he asked for several details regarding my engine (heads & valves, CR, displacement, valve covers, trans, FDR, etc.). I called him back a couple times before ordering, then again before he shipped - including a call after I changed my engine's displacement from 347 to 363 ci.

I didn't classify my valve covers as "tall", which was apparently a mistake, as the throttle linkage on his set-up interfered with the valve covers - but nothing that a couple of spacers and a die grinder couldn't fix.

I have thought about putting the engine on a dyno for tuning prior to installing it in the vehicle, but haven't made up my mind about that yet. I'll definitely include my experiences completing any set-up work required once the engine is fired up and running - as well as my thoughts about how they perform.

Have you tried to install the outer one first. The rubber in the outer one may be forgiving enough that the inner one can be muscled into place since the bolt lines up there.

King, I didn't interpret them as being an outer and inner - but a front and rear. It does turn out that the rear is slightly outboard, I think (when I do the LH side, I'll pull out the laser and check alignment more thoroughly before assembly). Your suggestion is ultimately what I ended up doing - and it worked. It still wasn't easy, but it is together now.

Curt,
The rear UCA and LCA were really difficult. I fought with those things for hours!
Goodluck,
Mark

Hang in there. I feel like I had won a battle once I got that IRS completely installed! The center section went in like butter and then every other piece fought me hard! Enjoy the night off.

Mark & Scott... Hearing that others had a bit of difficulty is relieving, and makes me think that I'm not completely incompetent. Only partly! I'm sure more difficult things are coming, and that ultimately this is only a minor bump in the road - and I'm definitely not getting discouraged (only a bit frustrated). Venting helps, but tips like the ground down tapered bolts helps more. I was using an aligning pry bar (lady foot pry bar?), but it was too long for the available space to be completely useful. Those modified bolts look like a good answer to that problem.

Thanks!
-Curt

[mach'er]

I should have a box waiting for me when I get home this evening. I mentioned earlier that I ran into an issue with my LH IRS Upper Control Arm and one of the Toe Adjuster Arms. I had what I would describe as weld spatter on the inside threads of these two link arms, right were the UCA's 7/8"-1.25" Adjuster Bung and toe arm's linkage adjuster need to thread into these suspension pieces.

I tried to clean the threads on the one toe adjustment arm that had the spatter, and then tried to muscle the linkage adjuster in - but that was a mistake. After chewing up the threads on the linkage adjuster, I did not try to do anything with the LH UCA. I did look at buying a tap for a 1.25" thread, but it was almost $100, so I contacted FFR.

Like always (it seems, so far), they were great. They asked for pictures, and then shipped replacement parts (which, like I said, should be delivered today), and I am shipping the originals back to them.

So, my LH side is still waiting for those parts, but my RH side is done.

I ran into the fitment issues outlined earlier. But, after a little work with "spreader" and a die grinder, the RH side is complete.





I tried to do a rough initial alignment using a piece of angle iron, clamped against the wheel hub, and measuring from the 4" frame rail to the angle iron (knowing full well that I'll have to do the actual alignment later).







I'll be repeating all of this on the LH side, and then installing the rear brakes and rear sway arm. I'm probably going to post a couple pics of the process while doing the LH side, now that I've figured out how to do it on the RH side.


Also, pretty much unrelated to the IRS Install, but...
I went and visited my powder coater this morning to drop off my sway bar bushing mounts to be done in a gloss black. Somehow, I missed these when I was putting together my three batches of stuff for the powder coating process. I had a batch of chassis parts that were gloss black, a batch of panels that were to be metallic silver (the engine bay and trunk pieces), and a panel batch that is going to be body colored (essentially all the passenger compartment pieces).

The black and silver pieces are all complete. I have them back (except for the sway bar bushing mounts, which I just dropped off), and they all look really good.

The cockpit pieces were still with him though, as I had told him that I was in no hurry - based on my build schedule - and I gave him rough timing for when I thought I'd be needing them. This morning, he had the smaller pieces done, but he said he will be stripping and re-doing them(!), because he wasn't happy with how they turned out. Thankfully, that doesn't impact where I am right now on my build at all. He talked about it being a de-gassing issue, and that he was going to use a chemical stripper instead of blast media because he didn't want to damage the sheet aluminum panels. I told him, well, as long as they turn out okay, he should do what he feels is right.

I'd like to say I'm not worried, but I'd be lying. The metallic silver panels turned out so great, I'm now left to hope these cockpit panels turn out okay.

That's all for now...
--Curt

[wareaglescott]

Interesting about the multiple colors on the panels coating. Sounds cool. Are you planning to cover the interior body colored panels with carpet or leave them visible?

[mach'er]

Yes, I'll be covering the interior of the cockpit with Koolmat and carpet.

As crazy as it sounds, I'm doing the body colored cockpit panels just for how it will look from underneath - the back side of the panels. I figured I had already made the decision to go with powder coating the panels, so decided to do it the way I wanted to. I think it'll give the look I'm going for. I was hoping for more of a chrome look on the engine bay & trunk panels - but the powder coater showed me some samples, and after much discussion, I changed to a metallic silver for those. And I'm really happy with how they turned out.

That's the great thing about this whole project. Almost anything can be customized the way the builder wants to do it. I'm doing a whole bunch of stuff "by the book". I'm unabashedly stealing several ideas that I've seen on other's builds. And, there's a couple of things here and there where I'm just walking my own path - and doing something just because I want to. Hopefully, just enough to make it "mine" by having some details that are unique to my build.

And so far... I'm loving it!

[mach'er]

Okay, so my RH side took like two solid evenings of struggling. My LH side took about an hour. I'm sure the RH side would have been quick too, if I knew what I know now. So, here's what I did.

None of the mounting tabs really fit the tubular arms of the suspension pieces. No amount of prying or deadblow hammer whacks were getting anywhere. I found a post on someone's thread about a "spreader" (sorry, I don't have the reference handy, so I can't give proper credit - but it was someone else's idea). Note, this is done delicately. Only crank the nuts as far as you have to. I'm sure this is stressing the welds and whatnot, but I found that there really was no other option. Here is my "spreader" in action (you can't see it well in the picture, but there are two washers on each side, and I used Paul's suggestion from my wheel stud problem and lightly greased the nuts and washers):



Once the given linkage piece would fit (though still requiring some prying and deadblow hammer action), but with the linkage removed, I ensured that the bolt would pass through the holes on the mounting flanges. It sounds worse than it was, but this required more than just removal of the powder coating:



Next, the appropriate linkage piece was re-positioned, and aligned using an aligning crow bar (where it fits) or a tapered bolt (such as Mark Eaton showed in the post above, where the pictured crow bar was too long):



Finally, the bolt was inserted, and in general this still took some persuasion. Torqued to spec, and repeated for each of the three suspension pieces (Toe Adj Arm, LCA, UCA).




I've got my RH spindle on now, and am moving on to brakes and sway bars. But, it's another weekend of no Roadster work. This evening, I'm taking my wife to Boulder, CO for a long weekend to visit her sisters. But I am looking forward to the week of Thanksgiving. I'm taking the whole week off, and hope to crank out quite a bit of work over that week.

Anyway, have a great weekend and thanks for all the tips.
--Curt

[Mark Eaton]

Right on Curt, now thats perseverance! I like that "spreader" you found. That looks much more precise than banging on those tabs with a hammer like I did.

Mark

[Yama-Bro]

I like your spreader method as well. I'll keep that in mind. I had to spread my brackets out on the IFS. I used a very large crescent wrench opened just wide enough for a bracket and a rag to prevent scratches. I bent them just far enough to get the parts started between the brackets. It didn't take much

[mach'er]

I've installed my rear brakes successfully. (EDIT: ARGHH! Installed the brakes more successfully than I can post pictures. Sorry they are all on their side.)





I do have a question on the clearance of the parking brake linkage clearance to the coil over.

Here is my LH Side (which looks good):



Here is my RH Side (which doesn't look so good):



It is not interfering with the coil spring, but it is kinda close. Especially when I compare it to the other side. My thinking is that this will sort itself out when I do the actual alignment.

I don't really see a way to modify it, other than the alignment aspect - or just start bending the sheet steel lever arm (which I'd avoid doing until there was no other option).

What do you experienced guys think? (Next post will have another question regarding pedal box & master cylinder adjustment)

[mach'er]

It is always satisfying to rivet on sheet panels. I love how it looks, and it gives a sense of progress.




I also got my pedal box installed. This was satisfying as well:



I have ordered KoolMat from Breeze, and know it'll be less than fun to tuck the correct piece up there after the pedals are installed - but I've been chomping at the bit to get some progress, so moved ahead anyway. I also have a Russ Thompson accelerator pedal on order, so will be waiting on that before installing the third (and most rewarding) pedal in the car. I received my Forte mechanical throttle linkage the other day, and that will be going in too.


On to my question, regarding the pedal box install.

I've already cut the linkage from my hydraulic clutch master cylinder to get the clutch pedal in line with the brake pedal. However, I realized that the brake pedal is resting against the frame member. Should I cut my two brake master cylinder linkages (arms, whatever we call the threaded rod that screws into the balance bar) such that the pedal can be adjusted to stop before the frame member - when fully released? They are screwed in as far as they'll go, but the pedal arm is still hitting the frame when released:



I might have to cut my clutch one again if so... But, I want to get it right, now, rather than later.

Thanks guys!!

[mach'er]

Sorry, one last question...

Brake lines. Should I be using some sort of thread sealer on any of the threaded joints on the brake lines? And if so, what kind?

I just got home from shopping for Thanksgiving feast groceries. We'll be having a total of 12 people eating here, and I had a massive cart full. But that's out of the way, so I can get back to the garage if I know what I need to do.

Thanks, again.

[GoDadGo]

Sorry, one last question...

Brake lines. Should I be using some sort of thread sealer on any of the threaded joints on the brake lines? And if so, what kind?

I just got home from shopping for Thanksgiving feast groceries. We'll be having a total of 12 people eating here, and I had a massive cart full. But that's out of the way, so I can get back to the garage if I know what I need to do.

Thanks, again.

I didn't use any sealer; however, I had pretty good luck by putting a little WD-40 (Very Minimal) on the fittings and crush washers to allow things to move around a bit as I tightened things up. Just don't over do it because it is easy to over tighten and strip many of the components.

Also, I view the 363 as one of the best options for these cars.

Lots Of Displacement With A Very Minimal Footprint!

Steve

[edwardb]

1. Others have reported that bolt from the Wilwood e-brake is close or interferes with the coil springs. In my experience, and others, it will clear when you complete your alignment. I looked back at your build pictures, and you have the camber adjustment in pretty tight. I think you'll find that gets turned out quite a bit and will allow the bolt to clear. Mine has roughly 1/2-inch of threads showing on each side of the adjusting nuts. Also your tow adjustment could affect it. Mine also has about 1/2-inch of threads showing. Obviously yours will be whatever they are when the alignment is done. But I'd be willing to bet that would help. Having said that, looked at your pictures and compared to mine. Something isn't quite the same, unless it's just the angle of your pictures. My shocks stand nearly straight up. Maybe more than yours. The bolt in question really isn't aligned on my springs. I do have the double action shocks, so maybe there's a difference. But check to make sure you have the right spacers on the shock mounts.

2. Yes, you need to cut the MC threaded rod(s) to get the proper position of the pedals. The brake pedal shouldn't hit the frame cross member.

3. You've got several different joints there. Absolutely no thread sealant on SAE double flare brake lines. The seal is in the flare itself, and that's metal on metal. It is good practice though during assembly to use a little lubrication to help them seat properly. I wet the end of the flare and tube nut with a little brake fluid during assembly. Gives a little lubrication for assembly plus whatever may get inside the joint is compatible with the brake fluid. Also no thread sealant on the small -AN flare fittings on the Wilwood flex lines. Again, a little brake fluid for lube is good to help when tightening. Finally, the small angled fittings that Wilwood provides that go into the calipers are NPT threads. Those do require thread sealant.

[mach'er]

I installed my steering rack, using the Breeze solid bushings. I had the same problem that many have reported with the passenger side bolt not passing through - and addressed it the same way (grinding the hole slightly, till it works).

I skipped the step of putting the lower steering shaft in before mounting the rack. So, I had to take the rack back off, put the shaft on, and then reinstall the rack. Seems like I do that a lot. Maybe I should read the manual more...






Then, the upper steering shaft. I installed it with the "flat" up, so the spring washers would stay in place as I tapped it in. This meant that the other side's flat was towards the frame rail. After tightening down the pillow bearing, I found I also had the common problem of the steering shaft not being able to turn. I used some of the leftover shim washers from the Wilwood brakes to raise the pillow bearing until the shaft was free to turn.



This picture shows the clearance I ended up with after re-tightening the bearing's fasteners.

The instruction manual states "tap the upper shaft down until the upper clip just disappears into the lower shaft." I took "upper clip" to mean the upper spring washer. Is that correct?

It's pretty cool to turn the steering shaft and see the front wheels turn.


I think I skipped right past the install of the front and rear sway bars in this build thread. It was pretty uneventful though. Just followed the supplemental instructions, and in they went. I must have been distracted, because I didn't take any pictures of those steps either.

On to the fuel tank!
--Curt

[mach'er]

My fuel tank is in. I had no significant issues to report on the install of the tank. I'm going to keep the supplied sending unit, and just cap off the return line (I'm running a returnless fuel system).




My fuel tank vent is just hanging there in this picture (and in fact, it still is). I've got a vent cap on order for that line, and plan to just route it up and out of the way just under the trunk floor aluminum near a wheel well.


I've decided to use a 3/8" fuel line, so I have a bunch of AN fittings, hose, annealed stainless hardline, and a prettier in-line filter on order. I'll detail that installation once all the parts arrive.

So, that's that, and on to some sheet aluminum install!
--Curt

[mach'er]

The company I work for gives a good holiday break at Christmas. I had two weeks off, and planned on getting a lot done. Mother nature had other ideas (along with a lot of family obligations around the holidays).

It was single digit temperatures and below outside, and my propane and electric heaters in the garage could only pull the ambient temp up to the high 40s. I was able to get the steering rack, fuel tank, and this post's footbox panels installed; however, I eventually said "enough". My wife (teacher) and kids were also off, so the garage door was repeatedly going up and down as they came and went, and I kept wondering about the temperature of my silicone sealant. Not to mention that I was cold.

Anyway, I got the passenger footbox inner top, front tunnel A-panel, pass. footbox inside wall and floor installed. I really love how this is coming together. It is giving me a good foretaste of the look that I'm going to have, and it is exactly what I was hoping for.








I'm doing red power coated panels on all of what I would call the cockpit panels, with metallic silver powder coated from the firewall forward and trunk. Red rivets on the silver powder coated panels, and silver rivets on the red panels (and on the black chassis parts). This gives a hint of what it's going to look like, I think.

My main struggle right now is... Man, I like how this is looking. I was planning on doing KoolMat and carpet in the interior, but I'm seriously tempted to leave it out. Tempted. I really think I'm still going to end up putting it all in, but I'm going to hold off until later. Yes, I know how much harder that will make putting the KoolMat in (versus doing pieces now, when it is more accessible). I just want to see it without it. And get some pictures. And continue to tempt myself.

I'm excited. And can't wait for a warm-up (and for the UPS driver).
--Curt

[Straversi]

There was a roadster at the Huntington Bch Cruise-In that had matt black powder coated interior panels. No carpet. I didn't get to talk to the owner but I assumed he just couldn't bear to cover those panels because they looked so good.
Decisions, decisions....
Looking good.
-Steve

[broku518]

I installed my steering rack, using the Breeze solid bushings. I had the same problem that many have reported with the passenger side bolt not passing through - and addressed it the same way (grinding the hole slightly, till it works).

I skipped the step of putting the lower steering shaft in before mounting the rack. So, I had to take the rack back off, put the shaft on, and then reinstall the rack. Seems like I do that a lot. Maybe I should read the manual more...






Then, the upper steering shaft. I installed it with the "flat" up, so the spring washers would stay in place as I tapped it in. This meant that the other side's flat was towards the frame rail. After tightening down the pillow bearing, I found I also had the common problem of the steering shaft not being able to turn. I used some of the leftover shim washers from the Wilwood brakes to raise the pillow bearing until the shaft was free to turn.



This picture shows the clearance I ended up with after re-tightening the bearing's fasteners.

The instruction manual states "tap the upper shaft down until the upper clip just disappears into the lower shaft." I took "upper clip" to mean the upper spring washer. Is that correct?

It's pretty cool to turn the steering shaft and see the front wheels turn.


I think I skipped right past the install of the front and rear sway bars in this build thread. It was pretty uneventful though. Just followed the supplemental instructions, and in they went. I must have been distracted, because I didn't take any pictures of those steps either.

On to the fuel tank!
--Curt

Hi mach'er. Great looking build. Very clean
I had the same issue with the steering shaft, used couple washers to clear the frame. I will adjust the shaft depth later after I install the dash, to see how far in I can push it.

About the brake lines, see if you can bleed them while you have everything open and easy access. I did it with some bottles and tubes by myself, found some hillbilly youtube video. Very simple and easy process. I found 3 leaks in my brake lines, tighten them easily. And in NO case you use anything one threats.

[mach'er]

Here's what I do when it's too cold out in the garage. Finished this up over the MLK Holiday weekend.

Chassis - Complete and ready for install



Front and Rear shots



Any guesses regarding the inspiration?

I'm off to a business trip, and hope for warmer weather in a couple weeks when I return. Gotta get back out into the garage!

--Curt

[Yama-Bro]

Sweet Amp! Do you have a guitar to match?