4 "guys" in the garage!

[Yama-Bro]

Good job on the welding. If you would have done this a month ago, I could have said you created the first FFR pickup, but I think they beat you to it.

[broku518]

Wow Martin, I'm amazed! You haven't welded since high school and then you knock it out in a weekend. Looks great!

Thanks Mark. I am glad I practiced on some spare metal first. I was burning some serious holes there
I needed to knock it out fast since my boys would be getting there. Also, I didn't want to have this work on week nights.

[broku518]

Thanks Yama-Bro.
I am building a daily commuter car with some usable space there. Having said that, I am still paying attention to details and safety, just not taking it to that 'showcar' level. That upkeep and cleaning would drive me crazy..with 3 boys around.

[broku518]

Couple days ago I started working on wiring harness. At first I was scared looking at these wires, but after sending some time it isn't that bad. I wired the ignition switch. Was sitting there and turning the key; not much to start, but it felt goood.

20171215_090821

20171215_090747

[broku518]

Last week or two were pretty exciting, learned how to remove bell housing, clutch and dial indicate the bell housing.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...w-to-dial-them

20171219_181423
20171219_161243

Now working on attaching the tko600. I am bit puzzled by how the fork should be installed.
Opened: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...918#post305918

[broku518]

Also, PackerFan/ Jim showed up today. Thank you for your help.

Looking at his ride, I guess he is a real fan or something
hm, this paint scheme may work on your mk4 as well, huh??

20171220_114001

[broku518]

Daddy's been pretty busy the last couple days. I was able to put the tko600 in today. It wasn't that hard, just to make sure that darn fork stayed on the pivot bolt.
Everything was already greased and adjusted. I only had to learn how things worked so I can come to the same conclusion. (Mike Forte is pretty awesome)
Also made sure TOB is installed the correct way.



Then I needed to figure it out how to pick the engine up. Called Mike F, told me that lift plate should be just fine., They do that all the time in their shop. Also, researched this technique and it seems pretty safe and quite common.
20171221_095219

Boys really enjoyed tha engine hoist handle, up and down, up and down




Once I got it up I checked the engine mounts. And yes, same problem like Mark with his dart block. Luckily an easy fix.


Called GM dearlership and they told me that #12345349 carries new part number: 88900333.
Ordered tko600 oil from Amzon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now, what else is needed to put this baby in the crib??

[robertjamesellis]

Great progress! Sitting here showing off your helpers in the garage to my wife. Looks like you are enjoying the build. so you know, i was also researching the same about aligning the bell housing and was a little iffy if I needed to do it. Got my engine and tranny from Forte also. So I did like you and ordered up the tools and will be attaching my TKO600 to my 427 soon and making sure all is ok. Better safe than sorry. Thanks for taking the lead and letting us know how it went!

[broku518]

Great progress! Sitting here showing off your helpers in the garage to my wife. Looks like you are enjoying the build. so you know, i was also researching the same about aligning the bell housing and was a little iffy if I needed to do it. Got my engine and tranny from Forte also. So I did like you and ordered up the tools and will be attaching my TKO600 to my 427 soon and making sure all is ok. Better safe than sorry. Thanks for taking the lead and letting us know how it went!

Thanks Robert,
I am happy that you find this info helpful. Right now I am getting ready to drop the combo in.

items to check:
-transmission oil (ordered, pending)
-transmission plug cover (ordered from Forte, pending)
-mount blocks (done)
-clutch fork (done)
-A frame (checked and it fits, done)

questions:
-what else should I prep for?
-how do I check that everything is in line? tko600-driveshaft-rear end (I could do a visual check for straight line, but not sure what else...)
-to level engine, do I just place a level on intake manifold and level it?

[Papa]

You and the boys are making great progress! Just one recommendation - hold off on adding the trans fluid until after it is installed in the car. You are going to have a fairly severe angle on the trans when you install it and the fluid will be pouring out of the tail housing at the yoke.

[broku518]

You and the boys are making great progress! Just one recommendation - hold off on adding the trans fluid until after it is installed in the car. You are going to have a fairly severe angle on the trans when you install it and the fluid will be pouring out of the tail housing at the yoke.

Thanks Papa. I thought about that part. You are right. I can fill it up later and don't have to deal with any spills.

Thanks
Martin

[Gromit]

Crack open the fill plug while its out and on the floor, Someone else reported theirs was really torqued in tight and a pain to get it free after installed.. and X2 fill after drive shaft is in... the yoke is the seal on that end with out the Yoke in place there is noting to keep the fluid from poring out. I keep a spare yoke for when I am dropping my Trans

Chris AKA Gromit

[broku518]

Engine combo is in!
What a day, nice -7F outside. I got couple guys come over this morning. We talked about the plan and overall safety. We were using lift plate. You picked it up with a single hook. It was really easy to swivel in any direction. (I researched the lift plate option and it is pretty safe method) No need for engine leveler.

Site crew, some were Union members, so we needed an extra drinks and pre-meetings


Lifting up, making sure the tilt is right.


I photobombed the engine install


Checking the view, nice and low...


note: I need to get a tko600 spacer to clear the round frame member.
I didn't installed the driveshaft, missing screws. FFR is shipping those.
Will have to check the angles once spacer is installed.

[Jazzman]

Congratulations! It looks like you had a great team and great time. But -7 degrees?!!!! And you opened the garage door? I'll be dead six weeks and I won't be -7 degrees. You are a hardy bunch. It's a great feeling to get that power plant installed, isn't it!! (By the way, that smile doesn't go away.)

[MPTech]

Congrats on the milestone.
It's NEVER TOO COLD to drop the engine in for the first time!

[Yama-Bro]

Looking good! You are more hardcore than me. It was 12 degrees when I went into my garage last Tuesday and turned on the heater. I was planning to work on the car all week. The heater ran for four or five hours and it only got up to 40 degrees. I decided I didn't want it that bad. There will be warner days.

[broku518]

Congratulations! It looks like you had a great team and great time. But -7 degrees?!!!! And you opened the garage door? I'll be dead six weeks and I won't be -7 degrees. You are a hardy bunch. It's a great feeling to get that power plant installed, isn't it!! (By the way, that smile doesn't go away.)

Thanks Jazzman. Yes, it is very satisfying. As far as the cold, nothing I can do about about, Chiberia...We should get a heat wave later this week, low 30s.

[broku518]

Congrats on the milestone.
It's NEVER TOO COLD to drop the engine in for the first time!

Thanks, this was the first time in my life I ever done anything like this.

[broku518]

Looking good! You are more hardcore than me. It was 12 degrees when I went into my garage last Tuesday and turned on the heater. I was planning to work on the car all week. The heater ran for four or five hours and it only got up to 40 degrees. I decided I didn't want it that bad. There will be warner days.

Nah, I am sure every time you walk by your project you have to stop for a moment and check on things.
Here in Chiberia, the cold will stay for a while. Sometime I need to move parts inside the house for couple days to warm up and be workable. For example, plastic connectors on dash gauges would crack in this cold. Also the heat shield material doesn't stick well in this cold.
Never mind the blue painter tape, I needed to use a heat gun to soften it and peel it easier

[broku518]

Not much progress, just bunch of small things that needs to be finished. Some parts don't fit right. And it is cold here.

One thing I finished was the e brake clevis with pulleys. It turned out pretty nice, no more rubbing.
20180105_183222

Also worked on the gas throttle linkage today. It is looking pretty good so far. Found out that I need to cut the rods to size and threat one size. (these are the small things that will require multiple trips to stores)
Now I need to get a drill bit size #3. No idea, but will need to get one before working on the threat.

I will cut the rods and leave there some room for adjustment later. It should be pretty easy to adjust the gas pedal response.

20180106_134916

20180106_134904

Also finished the fuel pump connection. This was some task to find a male connector. Finally got one it looks just fine.
20180106_180538

Also got a angle protractor today. Preparing for the "pinion angle task." Not super excited about that, but I guess it should be done.
Do I need to adjust the ride height first?
Do I need to have the car on wheels or stands?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Preparing for the "pinion angle task." Not super excited about that, but I guess it should be done.
Do I need to adjust the ride height first?
Do I need to have the car on wheels or stands?

Adjust ride height first. Rear suspension has to be loaded; i.e. stands under the axle with the car's weight on the springs.

Jeff

[broku518]

Adjust ride height first. Rear suspension has to be loaded; i.e. stands under the axle with the car's weight on the springs.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff.
I need to do some research on 'normal' height and get one of those wrenches to adjust the koni shocks.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thanks Jeff.
I need to do some research on 'normal' height and get one of those wrenches to adjust the koni shocks.

"Normal" is about 4 1/2" + or - 1/4" or so. No wrench needed; with the weight off of the springs the collars can be turned by hand.

Jeff

[edwardb]

Thanks Jeff.
I need to do some research on 'normal' height and get one of those wrenches to adjust the koni shocks.

Your final ride height is going to be in the 4-inch range, floor to bottom of the 4-inch tubes. Often a little more in the back, a little less in the front. But they will settle when new. For now, I'd recommend 4-1/2 to 4-3/4 front and back.

You don't need any special wrenches for the shocks. You have two already. On the ends of your arms. Unload the springs with a floor jack when adjusting. Don't try to adjust them under load. Some recommend some anti-sieze on the threads, and green Loctite (the wicking kind) for the sleeve to the body to keep it from turning. I've never done either and not had a problem. But keep an eye on it and do what works for you.

[broku518]

@Jeff + edwardb

Thanks guys for the info. For some reason I would loose a focus with a simple task. AND with a complex one I would finish in no time.
(keep it simple, use common sense, step back and reevaluate)

[broku518]

Pinion angle party

Please comment on this. I am working on this tonight and likely this weekend. I am not technically versed in mechanical parts terminology.

Here we go: Been tweaking and turning up down things. Here is where I will stop and get some beer and pizza.
Tranny: the end is pointing down 2 degrees.
3link solid axle/ pinion is leveled, 0 degree. (measuring the front of the pumpkin for future reference)

I feel like I should lower the pinion about 2 degrees , so when this thing kicks up during 'hard acceleration' it will go back to 0.
(I only plan to hard accelerate on Friday afternoon and weekends

The part I am kinds confused is the parallel view. If I have tranny pointing down 2 degree, then the pinion should go 2 degrees up to be parallel. But this would make the gap 4 degrees.

Thanks,
Martin


So what do I do now? I

[Jeff Kleiner]

I think you mean parallel, not perpendicular.

I know you watched the pinion angle saga a couple of weeks ago. Please don't overthink it and make it harder than it needs to be. Does this help:



All you're looking for is about 2 degrees difference in the orientation shown in the diagram. Print this image and rotate it so that the line through the transmission is pointing down front to rear if it helps you visualize it. You have my number if you get stumped but it really isn't voodoo or black magic.

Good luck,
Jeff

[broku518]

I downloaded the Tremec driveline app and it mentioned there..However, angles that are 'equal and opposite' are most desirable...

So based on this logic I should be fine. Right now I am at 0 and down 2 degrees. So when I hard accelerate hard it may kick up to 2 degrees up. That would make it equal and opposite.

[broku518]

Making progress. Huge thanks to Jeff for simplifying the pinion angle! Got it lined up and works line a charm Ended up using 7/8" spacer under tko600.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/FkPmoU]

Worked on couple other things. I know the oil relocation isn't needed for my small block, but it really clears the way for the clutch cable. So I did it and like it very much!
[url=https://flic.kr/p/FkNW4b]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/23qUaBj]

Now looking at this, I think I need to relocate the battery as well...

[broku518]

Radiator lower support.

Originally I wanted to go with the set from Breeze site. After looking at this I figured, heck I can make my own! Don't get me wrong, I don't really have a budget for the build, but like to use a common sense and make my own parts and safe money for things that I can't figure it out. Pus like to say; I build it!

Went to Home Depot and got some parts. 1/2" x 36" threaded rod, 4x 1/2" nuts and some wooden porch steel plate.
I got some leftover hose from the oil relocation kit and it fits nicely over the 1/2" rod.

20180118_184606

After ~30min of drilling and using angle grinder I ended up with something like this:
20180118_191326

Then measured 51 degrees on radiator, drilled couple holes and installed it.
20180118_193152

I think it looks pretty slick with some room to adjust, if needed.
Parts: 10 bucks
45min sweat labor.

[Jeff Kleiner]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/23qUaBj]

Coming along nicely Martin! Maybe this photo is deceptive but it appears that your reserviors may be a little too far forward; you need them to be no less than 20" back from the radiator cross tube to have adequate hood gas strut clearance.

Jeff

[broku518]

Thanks Jeff. Looks like I am right there with some room to spare
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DXei5B]20180119_091449[/ur]

[broku518]

I finished installing the foot boxes, firewall and tunnel. Considering doing the back wall and floors as well.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/E3sP4D]

Also finished the water cooling. The inline filler neck in complete kit comes with tubes on both ends. Those are too small for stainless pipe. I cut them and used other tubes. Also went to Autozone to get couple tubes with size and angle I needed. The clerk kept asking for a car model...not very helpful....ended up going to back and visually picked the ones that I could use/cut apart needed.
(it was from Dodge and Nissan

hint: when connecting the tubes. It is pretty hard to slide the rubber over the tube. Perhaps the cold. I warmed up the rubber to soften a bit and used a bit of oil on inside to slide in easier. Worked like a charm.

installed one of the headers (bolts are only hand tight). Didn't do the starter side, will need to work on the wiring part first.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/23GuLjX]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/23DDTfS]
You can see the rear brake line in close proximity to headers, couple inches, but I will cover this with some heat shield tape to be safe. Originally I ran it inside the foot box, had a leak and needed to rework it. Real pain doing this inside.



I thought about moving the battery to the front. But then realized, heck I would like to have a disconnect switch, so I need to run the cable back and forth.
So, battery will be in the trunk with charge post https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

Then will install the disconnect switch under dash and some terminal block or stub post (likely in engine bay) and one lead wire to solenoid. All will be streamlined, no going back and forth.
One thing I noticed other people do is "starter relay" Not sure what that is or if I need it.

[broku518]

My little one decided to help out last night. Cutting, cutting....



Yes boy, I think it's going be a loud one!



Started with this 'spaghetti dinner' last night. After couple hours it looks pretty slick. I wired blinkers, and hazard switch, but need to decide where to drill hole for those.

[Straversi]

Wiring is looking good. Intimidating at first but it eventually falls into place. Looks like you have it under control.
-Steve

[broku518]

Wiring is looking good. Intimidating at first but it eventually falls into place. Looks like you have it under control.
-Steve

Right Steve. I was really dreading doing this. I found every excuse to work on something else
Last night I put the boys in bed and worked on it. Nice and quiet, it was a breeze.

Thanks,
Martin

[John Ibele]

Nice work, Martin, and thanks for all the build detail. So much to keep track of. Now I need to put some tape on the frame where I need the reservoirs to go...

[broku518]

Nice work, Martin, and thanks for all the build detail. So much to keep track of. Now I need to put some tape on the frame where I need the reservoirs to go...

Thanks John. I started a list with various tasks. I just couldn't keep it all in my head, so many things. Also, some small projects are one step forward and two steps back as you go.

Glad you found this build helpful.

[SelectivePC]

Awesome build, still tons to do but loving the pictures. Now that you finally got them figured out, haha.

[Papa]

Looking good, Martin! Can't wait for the first start video. You're getting close.

Dave