For driving around, did you attach it with the hinges or did you just tape it with duct tape, like you said?
Trunk is attached to the hinges, but not trimmed or aligned and the latch is not installed - it is held down by tape.
Hood is just resting on the body lip and taped down on all 4 sides, not attached to hinges and latches are not installed.
I figure I'll only be driving for a month or so before sending off for bodywork, so i'd deal with this to ensure that the hinges and latches are in the right place once the body is adjusted.
Trunk is attached to the hinges, but not trimmed or aligned and the latch is not installed - it is held down by tape.
Hood is just resting on the body lip and taped down on all 4 sides, not attached to hinges and latches are not installed.
I figure I'll only be driving for a month or so before sending off for bodywork, so i'd deal with this to ensure that the hinges and latches are in the right place once the body is adjusted.
Sounds good. I'd be worried it would blow off, but you must not have had any problems.
Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022, First start 6/13/2024, Go Kart 8/19/2024 Click here for my build thread
Serial #9158
Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines
60 degrees and sunny sounded like a nice day for a ride. It's been a couple of weeks since I had driven her, but she started on the first turn of the key and ran smooth for a 20mi trip around town. I'm at 155 miles now.
As previously mentioned, I am running vintage 1965 plates on the car. As such, I didn't want to have to trim them at all. I did the Kleiner lens mod, but it still looked like i was going to have to trim a bit and I didnt really like how the light was covering a good bit of the plate.
So, I found this light on Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDD-820-0375C and fabbed up a new plate bracket to mount it to.
The plate now clears the trunk handle and sits fully below the light. the light doesnt fill out the complete flat spot on the trunk, but it doesnt bother me and I like the end result better then other options.
I decided to make a little bling for the engine compartment - filling the indentations of the coyote valve covers with some polished aluminum strips.
I took a thin aluminum flat and ripped it down to a 1/4" width, cut to length and then shaped the ends on a grinder. Then I went at it with steel wool/1500 grit/2000 grid and a polish disk on the dremel. I may do a bit more polishing before I permanently install (with double back tape).
I have decided to switch over to the Breeze roll bars, so I have a few roll bar items up for sale in the classified section: Chrome driver side bar, 2 sets of Tangent hidden mounts and 2 sets of Russ Thompson polished trim rings.
Let me know if you are interested.
It's hard to believe that it was 1 year ago today that my kit was dropped off. And now I sit with a completed car (minus bodywork and paint) with 247 miles on it.
Not much of an actual update, but I couldn't let the anniversary pass without notice.
I did get those little aluminum strips professionally polished that I made to dress up the coyote valve covers. I think it sets it off just right now (I still plan on painting the stripe on the engine cover blue to match the body).
I also had my new breeze roll bars polished and they look beautiful. I still need to get the 3rd leg welded on and then I'll have the polisher touch it up.
I'll ship her off to Kleiner for paint soon and should be fully graduated by spring!
I haven't posted on my thread in a while.
I'm still waiting on paint and bodywork.
I did add the turnbuckle mod to support the j-pipes as one of mine cracked (granted I didn't have the sidepipes supported for a while). And I also replaced the FFR provided brake pads with the Hawk HPS+ - I have found them to be a big improvement. I also ran down a coolant leak; it was coming from my heater bypass. It looked like it was coming from the quick connectors after I turned the engine off. I looked back in my thread and receipts and I cant tell where I got my quick connectors from, which concerned me that I may have got the wrong ones and/or low quality ones. So I ordered some new Gates (Gates 28504) ones (once again following EdwardB). When I put them on they immediately felt much more secure and no subsequent leaks.
We had a Caffeine and Octane event and I took the car up there (3rd time). It was another great experience and ran into a few forum members. It was a beautiful day here for a drive (although a bit chilly at 6:30am).
So after chatting with WarEagleScott, it appears I had the wrong calibration for my tach. It should be at .5 rather than 4. I made that adjustment tonight and it now moves. Idle and revving appear about what they should, but when I turn the car off, it stays at 1000
Hi, I am at this part where I need to calibrate those. I am not really sure what I am doing here.
Can you please share some pointers? I have already driven my go cart (don't see the speed and engine rpm). And I have the vintage gauges.
Originally Posted by Jdav
...Idle and revving appear about what they should, but when I turn the car off, it stays at 1000
Joel & Martin,
That's normal. When you shut off the ignition the tach, temp, pressure and volt gauges will hang at their last reading. If you turn the ignition back on but don't start the car you'll see them all sweep then go to zero (except volts which will show battery voltage).
Joel & Martin,
That's normal. When you shut off the ignition the tach, temp, pressure and volt gauges will hang at their last reading. If you turn the ignition back on but don't start the car you'll see them all sweep then go to zero (except volts which will show battery voltage).
Jeff
Thanks Jeff,
I have observed those. I was just wondering how do I calibrate my two main gauges. I have the manual, it calls for come clicking to do, I am not sure based on what. Or how many clicks should I do, if that makes any sense
Thanks Jeff,
I have observed those. I was just wondering how do I calibrate my two main gauges. I have the manual, it calls for come clicking to do, I am not sure based on what. Or how many clicks should I do, if that makes any sense
Tach and speedo are connected differently, so it could be a few things, #1, make sure you are supplying power appropriately.
Speed is registered through the GPS signal, so there is no physical connection to the car or real calibration - just make sure your GPS puck is plugged in and has a decent line of sight (it does take some time to acquire signal at times and wont register and speed until it does).
Tach will need a wired connection - you are running a different engine that I am, so I cant really speak to that. That also means your calibration will be different, but that should be noted in the instructions that came with the gauges. Once you have it in calibration mode, you press the button until it reads the number based on the calibration you need.
Tach and speedo are connected differently, so it could be a few things, #1, make sure you are supplying power appropriately.
Speed is registered through the GPS signal, so there is no physical connection to the car or real calibration - just make sure your GPS puck is plugged in and has a decent line of sight (it does take some time to acquire signal at times and wont register and speed until it does).
Tach will need a wired connection - you are running a different engine that I am, so I cant really speak to that. That also means your calibration will be different, but that should be noted in the instructions that came with the gauges. Once you have it in calibration mode, you press the button until it reads the number based on the calibration you need.
Thank. I looked at my box and found the gps cable. Attached now, magnet positioned on passenger side.
I may need to experiment with tach, got the instructions.
Just wanted to follow up on my issues. The missing gps cable solved the speedo 'problem.'
The tach issues - I forgot to run a cable to coil to pick up the pulses. My setting is 4= 8cyl/coil. Pretty simple.
Just wanted to follow up on my issues. The missing gps cable solved the speedo 'problem.'
The tach issues - I forgot to run a cable to coil to pick up the pulses. My setting is 4= 8cyl/coil. Pretty simple.
I finally finished up the dressing on the engine cover. I wanted something customized, but understated. As I have previously shown, I added some polished aluminum strips to the valve covers and now i painted a stripe on the engine cover with Guardsman blue (which will be what the car is painted). I also 3D printed a new nameplate and added some blue to it as well.
I will be shipping my car up to Jeff Kleiner in about 2 weeks and hope to have it back all beautiful in June!
Kleiner was nice enough to send me a few pics of the completed bodywork after his masterful touch. It should be turning slicksand grey next week before its final blue beauty coat.
Nice to see the progress. I was wondering if he was going to build up the area around your license plate light that you did a little differently. Looks like not much in that area. Cant wait to see more pictures. I know you must be getting anxious.
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
Just spent my morning reading your whole thread, nice job!! Started out asking questions every other post and by the end problem solving for other members! I'll keep my eyes open for the finished project!!
Cheers,
Higgy
The paint is moving along. I went with the classic Guardsman Blue with Wimbledon White stripes, but I added a black accent stripe on the outside of the white. I really liked how that looked on EdwardB's red 20th Anniversary Cobra and I thought it would add a modern touch to the vintage paint scheme; akin to the coyote in a cobra skin.
Here are a few pick Kleiner sent me in the various steps along the way.
Wow, love it. I think the accent stripe looks great.
-Steve
Originally Posted by wareaglescott
Great call on the black stripe. Looking great.
The accent stripe seems to be a hit! I've seen several comments on a FB post, my wife likes it, my buddy and fellow FFR builder who stopped by while I was unmasking the body likes it and the guy who dropped his off with me yesterday REALLY likes it and said "Oh, I want you to do that on mine!"