Jazzman’s #8745 "Flip Top" Build

[Jazzman]

This is a top down view of the main wire harness for the Coyote engine.



Side view of the same thing:



The distance from the header to the wire harness is 3.25". That seems awfully close to me. I am thinking of two possible solutions. I could put a strip of the heat reflective tape on the underside of the wire harness to protect it from the high heat of the header. The second option is to re-route the wire harness and attach it below the upper frame rail.



Both are viable options. The second will leave a few unused holes in the frame, but nothing too significant. What do you think? Do I have a problem? Which solution is the most prudent?

I got the power wires hooked up to the starter last night. No big problems, other than it is tight for fat fingers like mine, and it is usually a better idea to put blue Loctite on the thread before you put on and fully tighten the nuts. I'm just sayin . . .

[Duke]

You should be fine. The loom is good for 200 deg. indirect heat. You can always add some DEI heat tape to it. You'll need it anyways when you see how close the rear alternator wiring plug is to the header . Edit: never mind, I see you already have that side wrapped.

[Jazzman]

On this thanksgiving day, we have so much to be thankful for. Even with all our disagreements, we live in the greatest country in the world. We live in a place where you can be what you want to be, think what you want to think, build what you want to build. You can choose what ever form of worship suits your taste. We are free to disagree about the details, but when all the minutae is washed away, we still choose to stand as one. We are free to disagree, and the best of us know how to disagree and retain respect for, and the respect of, those that we disagree with. We are a truly blessed Nation. I am thankful for the founding fathers that had the wisdom and foresight to lay the framework of our nation. I am thankful for every soldier who ever served for purchasing our freedom with blood. I am thankful that God has blessed me and my family with the opportunity to live in this amazing place.

One year ago tomorrow, the big FFR Semi rolled onto my street. I am certainly thankful that I have the opportunity to build a Roadster. Even more that that, I am thankful to all the members of this forum who have contributed to my success this past year: EdwardB, 2BKing, DavidHodgkins, JeffKleiner, WarEagleScott, AZPete, so many, many more. Without your help, I would not have progressed to the point I am today. I have learned a great deal about many things, but mostly I have expanded my own knowledge. This was the primary goal anyway. Thank you and blessings to all of you!

[Jazzman]

I installed the drive shaft. No real difficulty, other than the realization that the supplied bolts are not the right size for the adapter that FFR provides. Thankfully FFR knew that, and provided alternative bolts, marked 12.2. I'm no expert, but that sounds strong enough to me.



The engine, transmission, drive shaft and differential all line up perfectly.





I attached the Metco driveshaft safety hoop. Great piece of equipment. It did require a complete new set of hardware, but that's not really Metco's fault. Remember that 3/4" thick pair of transmission support plates that we have to install below the rear transmission mount? Metco did not account for this modification in their design. The hoop did fit around the drive shaft, and it actually did clear, but it really is pretty close.



I did the same that others have done. I used grade 8 washers to create a stack a little more than 1/4". I had to go buy 16 washers, four 3/8"x1" bolts for the hoop and two 5/16" x 2" bolts for the rear transmission attachment. These bolts were perhaps a 1/4" too long, but there was enough room for them up inside the polyurethane tranny support. I had already bought longer bolts to account for the 3/4" spacers, but now I had to buy two more to accomodate the Metco safety hoop. In this photo you can see the stack of washers. Of course everything was installed with blue loctite, and whenever possible, the bolts were installed facing downward. If the nuts fall off, you still have a bit of a chance the bolts will stay in there long enough to get you to safety. I also used deformed nuts whereever possible. (Ignore the goofy guy lying on the floor!)

[Jazzman]

In order to install the engine, the CNC reservoir set had to be disconnected and swung out of the way. The timing worked out OK, because I needed to powdercoat the custom mounting bracket that I had made. Now that I see the space available, and the very close proximity of the oil dipstick, it was clear that an alternative location could be advantageous. Becasue of the Flip Top, I have access to areas of the engine compartment that typical builds do not have. One of these is the outboard side of the frame rail. In order to provide maximum access to the oil dipstick, I decided that the best course of action was to turn the reservoir around 180 degrees and mount it on the outside of the frame. The lengths of the various hoses that connect to the MC's required that every hose had to be removed and re attached.





It is time to get started on the dashboard. Because I am doing something unique, I could not use the stock dashboard. I am not going to be using leather or the stuff FFR provides. The material will not be wrapped through the hole, so the holes in the stock dash are too big. I will also be using all Watson Speedworks push button switches, and the holes are all in the wrong places and the wrong sizes.

I purchased a dash blank from FFR when I bought the kit. I began by laying everything out on blank with paper cutouts and tape. Once it was all where I wanted it, I began drilling holes. I started with the indicator lights . They will all be directly above the steering shaft. I began by drilling a pilot hole with a very small drill, then jumped up the the 5/16" hole required for the indicator lights.



I then moved over to the small gauges. A standard 2" hole saw works perfectly for these holes. Again I used a small pilot hole to assure proper location, then used the hole saw to cut the holes.



I didn't drill the hole for the clock because I haven't decided if I will install it. I also didn't drill the holes for the oil pressure and oil temp because I haven't decided if I will buy a oil temp gauge . I am waiting to cut the big holes for the speedo and tach. These holes require a 3 7/8" hole saw. Ever tried to buy one of those? Online is your only choice. I ordered one up and it should be here tomorrow. (However, if you want to do this, borrow my hole saw. I am going to cut two holes, then don't ever expect to use it again. I will be happy to loan it out.) I also need to cut 7/8" holes for all the switches. I have a hole saw that size on order as well. I'll have to find something else to do tomorrow.

[Railroad]

I read where someone forgot to check the clearance behind the dash panel for the gauges and switches. I am sure you plan well.
Looks super!

[Jazzman]

Great weekend. Only partially spent it working on the car. The kids were all here for the weekend, and all their friends paraded through. They grow up quick. I smoked four turkeys this weekend. My bride cooked far too much, and I will eat nothing but turkey for the next week! Oh well, I love turkey, and gravy, and stuffing, and salads of the fruity variety, and bread and . . . Sorry, I digress.

I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out how to marry the RF ignition system to the Coyote harness and the Watson Streetworks "Hot Dot" ignition system with push button start and RFID security. My head hurts just writing it. I had to make up an excel spreadsheet to keep it all straight. I still have wires that go nowhere, and wires that go to two places at once! I'm going to have to make some calls this week for some help. To keep myself from making the obvious mistakes, I started labeling a lot of items.



Since I changed direction in mid stream on the tranny cover, I ended up with a partially cut tranny cover. I decided I wanted a fixed attachment point at the center bottom of the dash board. I want to mount some plugs and accessory stuff out of view. I cut off an 8" piece of the narrow end of the previously cut tranny cover. after drilling some holes to attach it both at the dashboard and to the 2" square tube, putting in a couple of holes for plugs, I mounted it in the middle of the dash area.







I turned my focus to the uncut tranny cover. I marked and cut the hole for the gear shift, quite a way from the traditional location, but I think it will work well ergonomically. (I still don't know what gear shift lever to add that will fit the Tremec shaft. I want one that is rather short.) I traced and cut a plug for the large hole in the tranny cover. I think I will use JBweld to glue it in place from the back, but I don't have any and have never used it. Any other suggestions? I also want to install a couple of cup holders. (Don't judge, we get thirsty here in AZ!!) Where can I get them and when should I install them?

[Jazzman]

The big project this weekend was the dash board. Spoiler alert: Some are going to love it, traditionalists may hate it. So be it. You have been warned! I finally decided on a layout. Because I will not be using leather, the holes needed to be different sizes that come on the stock dashboard. The small gauges used a 2" hole saw, and the large ones took a 3.875" hole saw. (It took some doing to find that one!!) Note to anyone buying hole saws. Choose one brand and marry to it! I have two brands of center spindle sections, one from Milwaukee and the other from Dewalt. The holes saws are interchangeable on either spindle, but they will wobble ever so slightly if you put them on the wrong brand of spindle. This isn't much of an issue in wood, but in aluminum it is jarring and you get a slightly oversized hole. Not too big to be a problem, but worth correcting.





I lightly sanded the aluminum face to allow the contact cement to bond more effectively. I then put two coats of contact cement on it. I have decided to do a wood dash using Zebrawood. Since I am a woodworker first, this nod to my background is a personal touch. If I ever sell the car, I may make a more traditional black leather one. After attaching the Zebrawood, I spent a lot of time sanding and prepping the wood. I have laid on two coats of exertior spar urethane, and sanded it with 320 grit sand paper in between. it is coming out very nice. I will probably do three or four more coats of spar urethane to be sure it is fully sealed and UV protected.

[wareaglescott]

Dash looks great. Very unique!
How are you planning on mounting it?

[edwardb]

I traced and cut a plug for the large hole in the tranny cover. I think I will use JBweld to glue it in place from the back, but I don't have any and have never used it. Any other suggestions? I also want to install a couple of cup holders. (Don't judge, we get thirsty here in AZ!!) Where can I get them and when should I install them?

I use my share of J-B Weld and find it useful and quite strong. Rough up both surfaces, make sure they're clean, and you'll get a strong bond. But it's not flexible. In fact quite rigid. So if the joint is flexible, it's pretty likely at some point the J-B Weld will fracture and the joint fail. To fill that hole in the trans tunnel cover, J-B Weld by itself will probably fail because the .040 aluminum is pretty flexible. I would recommend J-B Weld plus some kind of mechanical fastener. I did a similar repair/fill on my build and used McMaster 97530A097 blind rivets around the perimeter every couple inches. They fit into a countersink and work really well.

I put cupholders in my first build with a T-5 transmission. There was enough room in the front for them to fit. I found with the later builds with the TKO, the available space is much less, and didn't install them. You will need to plan carefully and use pretty short holders. With the mid-shift and console you're putting under the dash, I suspect you'll find the available options are even more limited. Sources for cupholders are most any boat supply. They have lots of options, but many will be too big. Another option is search for "poker table cup holder" and you'll see another bunch of options. Just make sure you have them firmly installed. There's quite a bit of air pressure in the transmission tunnel, and they will pop out if you're not careful. Really!

[wareaglescott]

I also used Pauls recommended blind rivets. They work very well. Not sure how you are covering the trans tunnel but I used them there and they do not show through my padding/leather.

[Railroad]

Wood is definitely different. I think I like it. It may be too much, but have you considered the top of the trans tunnel in wood? If someone with photo shop ability could put something up. I would like to see it, both the dash and tunnel top.

[Jazzman]

Wood is definitely different. I think I like it. It may be too much, but have you considered the top of the trans tunnel in wood? If someone with photo shop ability could put something up. I would like to see it, both the dash and tunnel top.

Just like the Flip Top, a wood dash is a personal choice and a matter of taste. some will like it, others not. Oh well. Yes, I have considered matching the tranny cover:



I am concerned that it might just be too much. There is also the challenge of rolling the wood across the grain around the edge of the tunnel cover. Zebrawood is rather brittle, and the striations of hard and soft grain make it prone to splitting. I may try a small piece on the remains of the cut up tunnel cover to see if this wood can be bent. My bride thinks it will be "too much" and I am concerned she may be right. I'm going to think about this possibility a bit.

[RHITME03]

Beautiful - great work.

Have you thought about something such as ebony wood as a contrast on the transmission tunnel? The Zebrawood may be a little much. Ebony (or similar) would keep the theme, but wouldn't be as pronounced.

[Railroad]

With all the black carpet, seats and tunnel sides, it should fit right in. Buy an extra tunnel top, design for easy removal and do both.

[Jazzman]

Beautiful - great work.

Have you thought about something such as ebony wood as a contrast on the transmission tunnel? The Zebrawood may be a little much. Ebony (or similar) would keep the theme, but wouldn't be as pronounced.

Thank you, RHITME03. Yes, I have considered contrasting woods. My first thoughts were ebony, Bubinga, Cocobolo, or some sort of dark burl. However, when I went looking for the wood, I found this beautiful piece of Zebra wood, there was no ebony, the bubinga just didn't look right, Cocobolo was too dark and dreary, and the burls were just too busy and odd. I decided to try the Zebra wood. My bride says that this will look great as a contrast to a Midnight blue, but also look good with the red pearl I am considering. I am glad I don't have to decide upon a color today!!

Railroad, I will certainly consider that possibility. Since I am already on tunnel top #2, I am not eager to buy a third, but I may do just as you suggest. I am also considering a leather top with some zebrawood accents somewhere. We shall see.

[Jazzman]

I have been working on wiring in the ignition circuits. It has taken a lot of time, thought, analysis, emails, and phone calls, because I am marrying three different systems. Now before I explain, I need to give some warnings:
1. If you are using the stock RF ignition keyed cylinder, do NOT follow this part of my build. My wire scheme is unique to the different systems that have to be wired together.
2. Don't follow me too closely. I think the notes I am making here are correct, but the engine isn't running yet. Until it is, I don't have confirmation that it is going to work.

The overall plan is to allow the Coyote PCM to control any and all functions that it needs to actually run the engine. I am using the RF wiring harness for most of the wiring outside of the engine compartment, specifically to the four corners of the car, but also other areas behind the firewall. Finally, I wanted to have more modern push button start functions as well as the security of an RFID chip. Watson Streetworks provides a very nice ignition module and an RFID unit. Since I decided to use all the Watson Streetworks switches, buttons, and indicator lights, I decided the matching ignition button was perfect. The challenge is tring to figure out which wires from each setup are critical, which are optional, and which ones are completely redundant and can be fully removed.

I began by temporarily hooking up the RF Key Cylinder to see what was done by each wire. I also spent a lot of time tracing the wires on the FFR wiring instructions schematic to see where each wire went. Remember quite a while ago when I attached all the red wires in the "starter solenoid group" to the switched bus bar? This will come into play in a moment. The first wire to address are the large and small red wires. I found that the larger red wire is powered at all times unless the master disconnect is turned off. (From this point forward, I am not going to remind you about the master disconnect. Just assume that everything goes to the switched bus bar connected to the master disconnect unless I specifically tell you that the power is derived from the HAAT Bus Bar.)

To figure out exactly where this wire went, and whether it split off to other wires, I pulled out an old tool I had not used in years. This little yellow box is a tone generator commonly used to trace telephone wires.



After you clip it on the wire you need to trace, you need this tool to actually hear the tone:



by using this listening tool, I can trace exactly which wire goes where. In this case, I discovered that the large red wire that feeds power to the RF ignition switch goes only there, and no where else. This fact is also confirmed by the FFR schematic which shows that the large red wire only goes to Solenoid. Since there is no solenoid in this setup, this wire was attached directly to the switched bus bar. Because the Watson's Streetworks Ignition Module (WSIM) has its own separate power drawn directly from the switched bus bar, there is no need in my setup for Large Red wire.

These two ring terminals are two ends of the same wire, the large red wire.



The lower ring terminal had previously been attached to the bus bar terminal just behind it that is missing the nut. I clipped both ends of this wire and buried the small remaining piece inside the harness covering.

The small red wire that is attached to the same point on the ignition switch as the large red wire that I have now removed is to provide constant power to the headlight circuits. To simplify that line, I attached the small red wire to switch bus bar. It will still provide constant power, just as it would have if it were connected to the large red wire on the RF ignition switch.

I spent quite a bit of time researching how to correctly hook up the Coyote Fuel Pump Relay (green) wire to the Tan Fuel pump power wire at the RF fuse panel. There has been quite a bit of discussion about the fact that the photo in my version of the installation manual eliminates the function of the inertia (rollover) switch. Since the Coyote harness provides full power to the Fuel Pump Relay wire, I simply wanted to replace the power source from the RF fuse panel to the Coyote harness. I want to retain the RF fuel relay and the functionality of the inertia (rollover) switch. I decide to clip the tan wire at the RF fuse panel just after it comes out of the fuse clip. (I already removed the fuse, and the battery is disconnected!!) By clipping at this point, I am simply replacing the power from the RF fuse with the power provided by the coyote PCM. (Furthermore, if I am wrong, it is easy to clip this wire again, and re-attach it at another point around the relay!)



In this case I was right. I very briefly applied power to the extended wire which will power the fuel pump. I heard an audible click from the relay, and the fuel pump could be heard. It works!!

[edwardb]

I very briefly applied power to the extended wire which will power the fuel pump. I heard an audible click from the relay, and the fuel pump could be heard. It works!!

Sounds successful. Good! I assume when this test was done, the inertia switch was in the circuit and the button pushed down? Since that provides the ground for the relay, it shouldn't work otherwise. I also assume you don't have any fuel in the tank? FWIW, be careful running the pump with a dry tank. Very brief starts shouldn't hurt anything. But generally not recommended to run the pump in a dry tank. Carry on!

[Jazzman]

Sounds successful. Good! I assume when this test was done, the inertia switch was in the circuit and the button pushed down? Since that provides the ground for the relay, it shouldn't work otherwise. I also assume you don't have any fuel in the tank? FWIW, be careful running the pump with a dry tank. Very brief starts shouldn't hurt anything. But generally not recommended to run the pump in a dry tank. Carry on!

Yes, you are correct, I did have the inertia switch in the system. I forgot to mention that after I successfully tested the pump circuit, I unplugged the inertia switch. What do you know, it didn't work. A successful second test.

[edwardb]

Yes, you are correct, I did have the inertia switch in the system. I forgot to mention that after I successfully tested the pump circuit, I unplugged the inertia switch. What do you know, it didn't work. A successful second test.

Rock on!

[Jazzman]

I "welded" the mounting angle brackets on the back of the dash board. I actually am pretty impressed with JB Weld. I cut up some left over 1" aluminum angle material into 1.5" long pieces, drilled one hole on one side that the screw would go through to attach the bracket to the frame. On the other side of the angle bracket I drilled two holes, just to allow the JB weld to squeeze through. After mixing up a small batch of the stuff, I put a coating on the bracket, and pressed it onto the back of the dash board. Six minutes later it had held fast, and four hours later it was fully cured. It really holds nicely!





I am pointing toward installing the radiator and all the appropriate hoses. In order to do that, I wanted to install the tilt front system because it would be much easier to access now than it would after everything else was in the way. So, for what I hope is the last time, I laid out all the newly powder coated pieces.



I took a bunch of photos that I will use as I write the directions for building the flip top. But you have already read through the construction (and reconstruction!!) of the system, so I won't bore you with a litany of repeat photos. Here's just a couple of it installed on the car.







I had to clean out a few threads, clear powdercoat out of a couple of holes, but for the most part it went back together smoothly. The funny part was that even though I have built and broken down this thing more times than I can count, I still had to go back to my own build thread to see how I put it together!

[Jazzman]

I drilled the holes in the underside of the dash hoop and installed 10x24 rivnuts into the holes



Since I already had the dash off to drill the holes and put in the rivnuts, I went ahead and put another coat of spar urethane on it. Since it is wet, I can't currently fit it onto the newly installed rivnuts. That will have to be for another day.

I moved on to the radiator. I had considered foregoing the Breeze radiator shroud, but It looks so nice, I finally broke down and bought it. I am so glad I did. It puts a nice finish on the back side of the radiator, and it also provides me a place to put the powersteering cooler. I plan to put the small cooler inside the radiator shroud to both cool it and also hide it from view. I have to wait to get all my radiator and power steering lines figured out before I can finalize where that little coooler should go. Again, another day.



I spent a lot of time figuring out how and exactly where to install the Moroso Radiator overflow tank and the KRC power steering overflow tank. I went to the metal store and got some scraps of aluminum to cobble something together. I am trying to attach a piece of aluminum horizontally over the frame rail that holds the top of the radiator. Unfortunately that frame piece is turned on a 45 degree angle. I think I am just going to drill diagonal holes in the frame rail and bolt it through. It's not going to carry a lot of weight, but I still want it to be solid.

[Jazzman]

The wiring is on a temporary hold as I wait for connectors, weather packs, and other fittings. I am also delayed waiting for the hand rubbed finish on the dash to dry. I have now done four coats (I think!) and plan to do one or two more. I have to wait a full 24 hours between coats, so it is slow process. Quality always is!

It is time to fit the radiator, hoses, and radiator overflow tank. It has become clear that I want/need to buy the Breeze lower radiator hose setup. I will order that monday or tuesday. The top hose is almost a straight shot from the radiator to the opening on the engine, but the quick disconnect that came with the coyote motor is a 45 degree joint which turns the inlet either directly across the front of the engine or straight forward. Neither is going to work well for me. I am hoping Ford or someone makes a straight fitting for the inlet on the engine. Why didn't ford just provide a slip fitting that required a hose clamp like everything else?!!!

For now, I worked on the mounting of the overflow tank. I started by drilling holes vertically through the radiator support frame rail. To try to start a hole on the corner of a 3/4" square tube presented an interesting challenge. I can't roll the frame into my drill press. I started by denting the corner of the frame rail with the square corner of a screwdriver shaft.



Then I use a punch to mark the very center of the dent into which I would drill the hole.



I then used three increasingly larger drill bits to drill the hole. I ultimately drilled a 19/64" hole. Why? Two reasons: it gives me a bit of wiggle room to get a 1/4"x20 bolt through it, and it was the sharpest drill bit i had at that size. Lets face it, it doesn't get used all that often!





A couple of holes in my 2"x2 1/2" L channel to attach it to the frame, and the first part is done.



I next cut two 10" long pieces from other scraps of Aluminum L Channel, one Piece is 1" on each side, the other is 1.25" on each side. (There was a reason for the two sizes, and not just the fact that these scraps were super cheap at the metal store, which they were!! It actually did not work out as I had expected, but it worked.)

[Jazzman]

I then attached these two 10" angle pieces to the Moroso overflow tank. They are designed to sandwich the mounting flange of the tank between the two pieces of angle material, and provide support if the tank were to begin to droop on the mounting flange.





The 1.25" angle is on the top, the 1" piece is on the bottom. The reason it was designed this way was that the larger angle piece was to be installed forward the support rail. However, there is just not enough space in there to allow it, so the bracket is installed rearward of the support rail.

I decided where the bracket had to be installed, drilled some holes to attach it and put it all together. I found I had to cut the bolts off flush with the nuts so they would not conflict with the frame rail.









There is just enough room for the radiator hose to slip underneath the overflow tank. Now my brilliant design has one minor flaw, not a killer, but challenging. The vertical bolts that go through the frame rail terminate just above the end of the radiator. No conflict, but very tight. To install this mounting rack, the radiator must be installed first. Once the radiator is in the way, holding the nut at the bottom of the mounting bolt for the overflow rack will be very challenging. It's not impossible, but will be difficult.

Now I am trying to figure out how to attach the power steering reservoir. I want to attach it to the same rail, but I need to set it off the rail by 5/8"-3/4". I am debating between spacers and some sort of a solid piece. I don't have any pieces the right size and shape, so it's off to the metal store again. Given my week, it won't happen till next week at the earliest.

[2bking]

You could use some JB weld to attach the nuts to the bottom of the frame rail before you disassemble the mockup. Then you won't have to chase the nuts when you put it back together after the radiator is installed. Be sure to grease the bolt threads so the JB weld doesn't attach more than what you are expecting.

[Jazzman]

You could use some JB weld to attach the nuts to the bottom of the frame rail before you disassemble the mockup. Then you won't have to chase the nuts when you put it back together after the radiator is installed. Be sure to grease the bolt threads so the JB weld doesn't attach more than what you are expecting.

Creative idea. I like it. I will look into that when I disassemble the next time. Thanks.

[Jazzman]

I spent a lot of time this week making my lists and checking them twice. Yes, of course I also mean "Those Lists", but in this case I mean the list of remaining parts and fluids needed to start the engine. I have power steering and radiator lines coming from Breeze, lots of fluids coming from Amazon, reset buttons coming from Speedhut, etc, etc. Edwardb postulated some time back when he ordered power steering fluid, coolant, oil, tranny fluid, IRS fluid, etc. that the fluids alone would come to "a couple of hundred bucks". He was optimistic. I just ordered the following fluids:

2 Gallons of Motorcraft Orange Coolant, Genuine Ford Fluid VC-3-B Orange Concentrated Antifreeze/Coolant (makes a total of 4 Gallons)

2 Quarts of KRC Power Steering Fluid, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1, I thought I bought three, but my order says two. I hope I don't need the extra quart. I'll let you know.

2 Quarts of Motorcraft 5W-20 Motor oil. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I was able to retain the brand new oil that came in the engine, so I only needed 2 more quarts. It takes a total of 9 quarts, so at $10 a quart, oil alone will set you back $90!!

3 Quarts of Delron III/Mercon ATF fluid. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. The company that did the shift modification on my Tremec specifically called for this type of fluid, so that's what I am doing. (Thanks, WarEagleScott for confirming how much fluid was actually needed!!)

Just these fluids alone were $150, and when you add in the rear differential fluid and friction modifier I already purchased, and a full 9 quarts of oil, I think you will be closer to $300 for fluids.

The wiring behind the dash is getting close to being done. I have all the ignition wires traced and connected (I hope!!) correctly. I have to collect all the various ground wires and attach them somewhere. I am now stalled waiting to be pleased with the final finish of the dashboard. (Being AR about wood finishing is a blessing and a curse!!) I have hand wiped all the previous coats of Spar Urethane on the dash, but I want the final coats to be glassy smooth. I ordered a can of the same Spar Urethane in the Aerosol form. This will be much thinner, but should lay a beautiful final coat (or coats!!). That is on order as well.

Insomnia got to me the other night, so at 1am I came down to the shop and began working on the screen cover for the radiator. I purchased a piece of hexagonal hole screen. Strong enough to protect from most flying rocks, but open enough to allow adequate air flow. I used 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum flat material for the frame.



I bent the screen around the frame on the top and bottom, and cut it flush on the sides. A few rivets around the sides, and it is done. Off to powder coating. It will be done in gloss black to help hide the radiator fins. It is open enough that it won't fully hide them, which is sort of the intent.

[wareaglescott]

Looking good. I need to make a radiator protector like this. How do you intend to mount it?

[Jazzman]

Looking good. I need to make a radiator protector like this. How do you intend to mount it?

It will be bolted at the top with the same bolts that hold the radiator to the frame. It will be bolted at the bottom to the bottom frame mount as soon as I figure out exactly what I am going to do. Doing the flip front means I have to secure the radiator differently than the FFR prescribed method.

[Jazzman]

It has been said many times before by experts greater than me, but Breeze provides truly great products! I ordered all the plumbing for the power steering system from Mark Last Friday. It arrived on Tuesday. Great service Mark!! Best of all, the braided stainless is great quality, very nice looking, and easy to work with. His fittings are about as simple as it gets. They look and work great.





I still have to mount the reservoir and the cooler, so I can't complete the Power steering circuit, but it's started and it looks and fits great!!

And on the other side emotional rollercoaster . . .

A pox upon the Ford engineers that decided that one of a kind Ford only quick disconnect joint where the upper radiator hose meets the engine is somehow better than a simple hose-clamped hose. All I need is a straight connection to the engine, an almost straight hose, and a hose clamp on the other end. Simple, right? NOOOOOO!! I got the Motorcraft KM-5114 upper hose. Many have used this, but this one doesn't like me!! It is just barely long enough, but more importantly, there is a rather serious conflict:



I'm no genius, but I am pretty sure the upper coolant hose is not supposed to touch the Power steering pump belt. The 45 degree angle quick disconnect joint either forces the hose sideways so it rubs on the belt, or straight forward where it doesn't rub on the belt but can't possibly reach the upper radiator inlet. Doesn't Ford make a straight version of this:



Next I tried to figure out if the stock hose that came with the engine might be of some use afterall. No joy there at all:



If I turn the quick disconnect around to move it striaght forward, it does miss the power steering belt. However, the other end is at such a hinky angle that it won't connect to the radiator without really torquing the hose. I fear it would soon wear and give due to the unnatural stress.

If I could find a straight connection to the engine, I might just use the corrugated steel hose that came with the kit. I have enough hoses to cut up to get the angles I need, but I am not a fan of the corrugated steel look. I would really like to find a Ford Straight connection to the engine and then get a straight braided stainless hose for the rest of the distance. But first I have to find a Ford hose with a straight connection instead of a 45 degree one. Any suggestions? I'm calling Ford Tech tomorrow.

All these challenges with the upper radiator hose is also wreaking havoc on my Moroso reservoir location. I think it may sit too high and might hit the inside of the hood, but if I lower it there is not enough room for the upper radiator hose to go under it. I can't install the power steering reservoir until I fix the location of the radiator overflow tank. I can't fix that location until the upper radiator hose is installed or ready to be installed. Arrgh!!

Ok, what K&N Air filter should I be purchasing? The one that came with the car is much too long. I bought a second one, it was waaaay too long too. Sent it back, ordered the RG-1001RD because it was the shortest one i could find that still would accommodate a 4" inlet.



It's still too long. Air filter #3 going back. What part number should I be ordering?

[wareaglescott]

Kevin this is the one you need -
K&N RU-2520 - K&N Universal Performance Air Filters
It is 4".

Interesting your conflict with the upper radiator hose. I didn't realize your PS pump mounted to a higher location that mine. What did Paul use? He has a KRC system if I remember correctly.

[edwardb]

I checked my records and they're showing I also used the KM-5114 upper radiator hose. Ford CL3Z-8260-A. But I agree it won't work clocked the direction you have it. Mine comes out straight from the connection. It's relatively close to the KRC PS pump pulley, but all clears. I don't recall having a problem with it stretching to the radiator connection. But it's been some months since I put it all together. Just went out and tried to get a couple pictures. But hard to see too much with everything assembled. Plus it's cold out there. Another zero degree morning here so just above freezing in the garage. (I know you warm weather guys don't want to hear that...). So these are some older pictures that show the hose and angle:

Before PS installed:


After PS installed:


Here's a picture I just took showing how it clears up under the Moroso tank. About 1-inch of clearance. This also shows some of the braid left over from some of the other hoses that I put over the upper radiator hose. Just for appearance (I guess.).


For the air filter, I use the FF specified K&N RC-5149 (5.375 in. Diameter, 6.50 in. Tall, 4.0 in. Inlet) along with the FF specified Spectre parts. It fit OK, but the angle was super critical to keep the end from hitting the frame under the hood hinge. After multiple efforts, I cut about 3/4-inch off the end of the 90 degree Spectre intake. Didn't figure that would affect the airflow enough to make a difference and that provided the needed consistent clearance. Using the shorter K&N RU-2520 Scott mentioned is another option. The RG-1001RD at 5.5 in. long is even longer than the RC-5149 I used.

[Straversi]

A pox upon the Ford engineers that decided that one of a kind Ford only quick disconnect joint where the upper radiator hose meets the engine is somehow better than a simple hose-clamped hose.

Ha, I agree! I've driven a few new Ford's and the radiator hose clamp connection was not on the top of my list of things that needed to be improved. Misguided engineering.
-Steve

[edwardb]

A pox upon the Ford engineers that decided that one of a kind Ford only quick disconnect joint where the upper radiator hose meets the engine is somehow better than a simple hose-clamped hose.

Ha, I agree! I've driven a few new Ford's and the radiator hose clamp connection was not on the top of my list of things that needed to be improved. Misguided engineering.
-Steve

It's all about production line speed, efficiency, reliability, repeatability, ergonomics, etc., and also to service although maybe a lessor extent. The same push-on/click connectors are all over the car. Fuel lines, vacuum lines, PCV lines, heater hoses, etc. Works OK for exact length and molded profiles in a production car. Obviously not so good with custom builds like ours.

[Jazzman]

I just wasn't happy with the first version of the radiator and powersteering reservoir bracket I built. I decided to redo it and extend both aluminum angle pieces across the full width of the front frame rail piece.



After I added an additional angle piece vertically to hold the power steering fluid. It all looks pretty good, and seems to fit well. However, until I get the upper radiator hose installed permanently, I can't be sure that the moroso reservoir will sit just on top of the radiator hose.





I am also a bit concerned that the bottom hose may not be quite high enough to flow smoothly into the water pump. Again, waiting to get the upper radiator hose. Ford didn't get back to me on options for a quick disconnect that is straight rather than a 45 degree angle.

The dash is finished, and now I begin installing all the gauges, switches, and lights. Here it is with everything installed, but not yet fully wired.







Tomorrow I will focus on wiring dash, turning the mess into something resembling organized chaos!

[wareaglescott]

Dash looks awesome! Well done

[WIS89]

Kevin-

Love the dash! I like the mix of older and new. That wood will stand out nicely.

I also like your decision to make the angle pieces the full length of the radiator opening.

You are making great progress.

Regards,

Steve

[Jazzman]

Kevin-

Love the dash! I like the mix of older and new. That wood will stand out nicely.

I also like your decision to make the angle pieces the full length of the radiator opening.

You are making great progress.

Regards,

Steve

Thank's Steve. I appreciate the support. Progress is slow and hard fought, but it is moving in the right direction.

[Jazzman]

Alright loyal readers, time to grab a beverage (adult or otherwise) and sit back. This is going to be a lengthy report because a lot of little things have been accomplished. Wiring is still kicking my butt.



I wanted to start the weekend with a success. I decided upon something simple: fill the tranny with fluid. It is much easier to fill from the top, so I opened up the center opening where the gear shift lever goes, and poured it right in. 2.65 quarts. Check that one off the list.



The standard hole in the tranny tunnel cover was not even used, so I needed to fill it before I covered it with something. I want it to be smooth just in case I choose to lay matching wood over it. (At the moment I am not planning to do that. I think it will just be too much wood.) I had previously cut an aluminum filler piece, but I had to lock it in place. Others have used rivets, but if I use a wood cover, the rivets would show.



I began by taping the filler piece in the hole from the top side.



I cut an oversized piece to "weld" on to the back to hold it in place.





A bit of metal cement, some pieces of plywood to hold it flat, some C clamps, a couple of pieces of wax paper to keep the squeeze out from sticking to the plywood panels, and the piece is glued to the back of the tranny tunnel. I did just a bit of clean up on the front side, polished it all flat, and the tunnel cover is ready for ThermoTec on the back side and whatever cover I decide to put on the front.

One unrelated lesson. Remember when I attached the angle pieces of aluminum to the back side of the dash. Each one was placed so that they would be easily accessible from the underside. I was so proud of myself, I even remembered to cut a semi circle in one side of the angle piece to allow space for the nut on the back side of the horn button. Now what is wrong with this picture?



You got it! the horn button prevents easy access to the business end of the bolt that is supposed to go through that angle attachment point. Don't ask what I am going to do about that. I haven't figured it out yet!

[Jazzman]

I finally found and ordered the 3/4" quick disconnects that are needed to connect the two hoses that might be used to hook to a heater. However, since I am not installing a heater, only heated seats, I need to connect up these two points. I got these from RockAuto.com. This is first time I have ordered from them. quick service, lousy website, but they do seem to have one of everything.



I had a length of braided stainless hose this size. It is complete overkill for this purpose, but it is paid for, and I would have to go buy some other hose otherwise, so I used it. Doesn't this look nice and shiny!!



Of course it is a complete waste of bling, because the cover completely hides it!!



In order to mount the bracket which will hold the radiator and power steering reservoirs, I had to figure out a way to attach them after the radiator is e/in place. the problem is that the bracket itself prevents access to the underside of the frame rail that it is mounted to. 2BKing suggested that I add a nut to back side, and affix it with JB Weld. There are a few advantages for have a father and grandfather who were packrats: I have hundreds of miscellaneous nuts and bolts. I went looking for a 1/4"x20 nut to mount to the underside of the frame rail. I came across these:



I am sure I have had them for at least 20 years. I am glad to get two of them out of my can of 1/4" nuts!! I used the die grinder to grind off the powdercoating where I would be attaching the nuts. In order to keep the JB Weld from sticking to the threads of the bolts holding the nuts in place, I coated the threads with grease. I bolted the nuts in place being careful not to get any grease anywhere other than the threads. I made up a small batch of JB Weld, and coated the rectangular nuts liberally.



After an hour, i removed the bolts to be sure the JB Weld had not welded them in place. They came right out. Thanks for the suggestion, King!!