Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: 5,000 Mile Report

[edwardb]

There are not a lot of good options for mounting computer, this is what I did, it is similar to where it is on the Mustang, etc on the Mustang it is cover with more wire and a fuse block.[/URL]

Shows once again there are multiple ways to approach this. I'm not sure the larger Gen 3 PCM would fit there given everything else going on plus I have power steering. I'm happy with where I put mine. Saw on your build thread you had your first start. Congrats.

[edwardb]

Still plowing ahead. Since last update, jumping around again with power steering, heat, A/C, radiator connections, etc. Lots of dependencies (mainly for space) so need to keep everything in mind. Received the SS flex and fittings from Breeze to hook up the power steering. Had that basically done the day the package arrived. The Aeroquip hose and fittings he provides are top notch and assembly easily. I also used the Breeze -6AN rack fittings with the rubber O-rings. First time I’ve used those. Worked well and did my best not to over-tighten the O-ring seal. Decided to install a PS cooler and used the same Derale 13310 piece like I’ve done before. Maybe not needed for a street driver. But easy to do now and certainly doesn’t hurt anything. Already has the -6AN fittings. So, two more connectors and it’s done. After looking at multiple locations, centered the cooler on the back wall of the radiator tunnel where it will get bolted when that piece is installed. Worked well and gave nice easy routings for the lines. Used a couple Earl's Performance 167207ERL clamps.



With the lines installed, filled with Honda PS fluid that I’ve used before and like, took the belt off the pump, and spun it up with a drill motor like the KRC instructions describe. Quickly burped and the pump was working. Had my number one shop assistant (wife) turn the wheel back and forth as I was running the pump, and all is working properly. No leaks so far.

Next up it was finally time to dive into the heater and A/C hoses. But first quickly realized that before mounting the evaporator in the passenger side footbox for the last time, best to first install the carpet in the footbox. It’s tight in there and would be difficult if not impossible to install the carpet with the evaporator in place. With that decision, decided to go ahead and do both passenger and driver side footboxes. Rest of the carpet is a breeze after getting those pieces in. Used the DAP outdoor carpet adhesive I’ve used before. Works extremely well. But the smell is powerful. Needs to be used in a ventilated area with the gas heater turned off. Which I did. Then it takes a while to air out once installed. But I like it because it grabs but still allows repositioning. And the final product isn’t ever going to come off. Did all the carpet pieces in both footboxes except the floor pieces, which will be an easy add when doing the rest. The inner walls on both sides are interesting since the shapes are quite irregular. But the pieces fit with very minor trimming. Based on their complexity, don’t think I’d try those two pieces with regular contact cement or spray. Would be really easy to get them off a little and then not fit very well. For the driver’s side, I added a heel pad on the side of the footbox next to the accelerator pedal. I’ve done that on previous builds, and not only does it prevent wear to the carpet, makes the accelerator easier to operate without your shoe dragging on the carpet. The pad is a “small” size from http://www.heelpadwarehouse.com/ (talk about a niche market) glued and stitched to the carpet after giving the carpet a bit of a haircut in that area. This pic shows the final driver side footbox less the carpet on the floor. Thinking about also putting some carpet around the frame members along the bottom. But we’ll see what it looks like when finished.



With that done, hung the evaporator for hopefully the last time. First up were the heater hose connections from the evaporator to the bulkhead fittings. Easy enough. Next up were the A/C hoses from the evaporator to the bulkhead fittings. Here it gets a little tougher. Couple of other build threads noted this as well. One eliminating the bulkhead fitting completely. The final hoses are short, stiff, a little hard to get into place, and length is very critical. What I learned from other build threads is the hoses “grow” slightly in length when crimped, making them hard if not impossible to install if not considered. The A/C kit came with a bunch of extra fittings and plenty of hose. So, I practiced making one with spare parts, measuring before and after. What I found was the hoses grow a little less than 1/8-inch. Closer to .1000 inch. Taking that into account, made up the two hoses. Happy to say both are in and installed. As expected, they’re stiff to put in, and easy to cut an O-ring if you’re not careful. With that fixed, have them in and tightened. Hopefully don’t leak and I won’t have to touch them again. I’ll find that out later when the system is charged. Just a side note FWIW: The three brackets and small screws provided to mount the evaporator in the footbox seem a little wimpy at first. But with the four hoses attached on the back, it's a lot more stable. I'm confident it's not going anywhere. The kit comes with insulation that goes over the hoses and valve block in this area. I’m assuming to prevent condensation and dripping into the footbox. But I’ll wait until the system is charged and tested to install. Just in case... Looks like this now:



Made up all the other hoses, and now have them all done except for the ends that attach at the condenser in front of the radiator. I’ll get the final length and crimp those on when the radiator is mounted. I did have to move the drier/trinary switch slightly from where the Factory Five instructions showed because of where I mounted the Coyote PCM. But works out fine here:



Speaking of making the A/C hoses, mentioned before that I picked up the Mastercool 71550 A/C hose crimper referenced in the Factory Five instructions. It’s very simple to use and a nice quality tool. Highly recommended.





One last comment about the A/C installation at this point. The Factory Five instructions show cutting off the leads to the connector on the A/C pump and hard wiring the harness to them. Not real excited about doing that for a couple reasons. Checked with my friends at Ford and learned a Motorcraft WPT-984 connector mates to the CR33-19497-BA / DKS-17DS compressor that comes with the Coupe heat-A/C kit. Used on 05-14 Mustang 5.0 V8 BTW. Ended up getting the connector on Amazon, but they're widely available. In this case, listed by the seller as a subwoofer speaker connector, so obviously used elsewhere. But as long as it says Motorcraft WPT-984, fits perfectly.



Haven’t started the heat-A/C wiring yet. Will do that when I move into the cockpit and start wiring there. I’ve started but haven’t completed the radiator and hose installations. I’ll save that for the next update. Getting close to having everything in the engine compartment hooked up.

[jdavis500]

Did you use the same DAP Outdoor Carpet Adhesive for the footpad or the 3 M that they offer on their website?

[edwardb]

Did you use the same DAP Outdoor Carpet Adhesive for the footpad or the 3 M that they offer on their website?

I used the DAP adhesive. A little more explanation would probably be a good idea since this could be a safety issue if done poorly. With the footprint of the pad outlined with tape, I shaved probably half or more of the height of the carpet pile with some hair clippers. I didn't want to add any height plus wanted the pad pushed down near or onto the carpet backing. Then, spread the adhesive on the pad, and pushed it down onto the location. Then placed a scrap piece of wood (actually MDF) that was the exact size of the pad on top and weighted it down overnight. With that it was rock solid. But did hand stitch around the perimeter with carpet thread just to make sure the edges didn't lift. FWIW, I've used this exact process on all my builds. The oldest one going on 8 years and a lot of miles is still firmly in place. The spray adhesive sold on their website would probably be OK for horizontal surfaces. But I wouldn't use it next to the accelerator pedal like I did.

[edwardb]

Quiet Christmas Day here. Family members all live out of town and we’ve visited recently. So just the two of us here. Good time for an update I guess. Better than checking my 401K balance. It’s been a pretty good week of getting a bunch of stuff out of the basement and permanently installed. Radiator tunnel sheet metal is attached. Radiator and expansion tank installed with all hoses hooked up except the heater hoses to the control valve. Will do that after the wiring is done. A/C hoses all done and hooked up. PCV hoses done. Control pack wiring mostly done including O2 sensor wires. Still a few more details to wrap up although I’ll probably never stop messing with the wiring and hoses trying to make it all as orderly as possible. My planned mod (at least right now) for the engine cover is it will have extensions that cover about half the heads. So, a lot will be covered from what’s visible now. Anyway, looks like this right now:



Now a few more details. This is the radiator tunnel. Kit supplied cooling fan with Breeze shroud. The Boig cool tubes fit perfectly and make that almost impossible lower radiator hose connection work OK. You can see here I’m using Gates SB PowerGrip heat shrink hose clamps. Have them most everywhere including the heater hoses. First time I’ve used them and I’m pleased with how they install. All the reviews say they grip and hold as well or better than typical metal hose clamps. Plus trying to make things as sanitary as possible. Of course the downside is they’re one-time use and have to be cut off. Hopefully that won’t be necessary very often. One hint: Huge variation in price for these things. Found them for about one third the Amazon price, which is a surprise. Google is your friend. I also used Oetiker ear clamps for most of the smaller hoses, a couple visible in the engine compartment. Again, they’re sanitary and work well. Also one-time use though obviously. Another detail visible in this picture is I moved the radiator as far to the left as it would go. Helped to get the lower radiator hose to hook up, plus gave room on the right side for the lower A/C connection to the condenser. Also visible is the small upper radiator hose connection back to the expansion tank. The petcock is removed and replaced with a Gardner-Westcott J9033 right angle fitting, then through the Ford supplied hose with a one-way valve. I did have to extend the hose to reach this far. Did cut a hole in the sheet metal and pointed it down. Would have been easier to go around the end. But I checked and that would have interfered with the cowl.



Closer picture of the upper radiator hose connection and upper and lower A/C connections.



The Moroso expansion tank installed and plumbed. The upper radiator hose that came with the control pack worked perfectly to go around the tank and then attach to the upper Boig cool tube. No trimming. Like it was made for it. Also visible here is the JLT oil separator installed in the PCV circuit, same as I did on #8674. The is a pretty common add with the Mustang performance crowd. My experience with #8674 is that it doesn’t collect a lot of oil, which is good, but still chose to use it.



Last picture, I mentioned before I picked up a honeycomb MAF airflow straightener from Treadstone Performance Engineering when I ordered the other CAI components from them. They highly recommended it to improve the stability of the signal from the sensor. Did some further research and found many other comments that were similar. Figured it can’t hurt anything. Was going to wait, but decided just to drop it in. With a little careful sanding on the disk sander, it slid right into the neck of the pipe. I put a light coat of JB Weld around the opening before sliding it in, and it’s not going anywhere. BTW, the Treadstone Performance Engineering 90 degree silicone hose coupler, MAF adapter pipe, and air cleaner are very nice parts. I’m impressed. These were recently added to the Factory Five instructions as another option for the Coyote CAI. Especially like that the adapter pipe is beaded on both ends. When clamped (I used T-clamps) it should never separate like the event I had with #8674. The Spectre parts, which Factory Five also lists, used in #8674 didn’t fit well in the Coupe. These fit perfectly. Also can see the connection I added for the left side PCV hose. JLT has those.



I’ve also been doing a lot of research plus taking things apart a little figuring out the vacuum hookup on the Gen 3 intake, along with the CMCV plumbing. This is an often discussed (and confusing) subject on the Gen 2 Coyote. Pretty sure I have it sorted out. I’m waiting for one part to arrive. Then will explain how I see it’s working with the Gen 3 and how I hooked it up. Good news, it’s simpler than before. Will post hopefully in the next couple days.

[RR20AC]

Looking Awesome Paul. The Gates clamps are everywhere on my car and not had a leak yet. The cover looks better trimmed as you have done. Talked with my cobra buddy and he said he was in for a coupe build too. I am sure you are getting a lot of guys thinking of this coupe for their next project. Merry Christmas and thanks for all the updates. Jim

[Davew70]

Looking Awesome Paul. . . . . I am sure you are getting a lot of guys thinking of this coupe for their next project. Merry Christmas and thanks for all the updates. Jim

Ditto, looks great.

[edwardb]

Ford added Charge Motion Control Valves (CMCV) to the Gen 2 Coyote when it was released in 2015. Also sometimes referred to as Intake Manifold Runner Controls (IMRC), which were used on some versions of the previous mod motors. But apparently this time around they are serving a different purpose, so technically not the same thing. According to Ford literature “…charge motion control valves… partially close off port flow at lower engine speeds. This increases the air charge tumble and swirl for improved air-fuel mixing, resulting in better fuel economy, idle stability, and lower emissions.”

It was common in former times to lock these out. Also common today with the Coyote by the performance crowd. But if you do, you’ll need a custom tune otherwise the PCM will throw trouble codes. I’m fine with leaving them, as I did on the Gen 2 Coyote in #8674. But out of the crate the vacuum required is not plumbed. There have been several threads and lots of posts about this, including from me. It was relatively simple to do, but still caused lots of discussion. Ford didn’t help by changing the plumbing slightly in later versions of the Gen 2. There’s also been some discussion about whether the CMCV function is even active in the special crate motor PCM tune. What I can say is (1) if you don’t plumb them you will get trouble codes (personal experience) and (2) when I reviewed the log files while working with Lund Racing on the custom tune in #8674, I could clearly see they were being commanded. I can’t confirm whether this was from the original tune or from Lund’s custom tune. But regardless they were in use. For whatever reason, which I don’t understand to this day, neither Factory Five or Ford Performance address the CMCV function in their instructions.

So with this as background, now the Gen 3 Coyote in my Coupe build. The Gen 3 Coyote has a brand new intake manifold. Side note: It apparently is a nice performance upgrade. Many are fitting the 2018 Gen 3 intake onto previous generation Coyotes with good results. The Gen 3 does still have the CMCV function. But the plumbing is changed. Perhaps because of the Direct Injection (DI) on the Gen 3 Coyote which takes up real estate under the intake that used to be open, there are no longer any vacuum or vent hoses from the back of the intake. Everything is on the front. Additionally, the Gen 3 vents the vacuum motors to atmosphere, like later versions of the Gen 2. There’s no vent tube to the intake like on early Gen 2’s, including mine in #8674.

So let’s get down to it. Here’s the intake area on my Gen 3 Coyote, with the various connections annotated and explained. I’ll cover more than the CMCV and vacuum required, just for information and clarity:



A = Heater hose connections
B = Upper radiator hose connection
C = Lower radiator hose connection
D and E = Connections to coolant expansion tank. Note: Capped if using Factory Five instructed T-filler and overflow tank.
F = Vacuum connection for CMCV function. This replaces the similar connection that was on the back of the Gen 2 Coyote.
G = Right side PCV connection.
H = Main vacuum port. This connects to a manifold setup in the Mustang (not included with the crate motor) which supplies vacuum to the CMCV plus the power brakes.
I = Vacuum port for evaporative emissions canister purge valve. The 2018 intake no longer has the purge valve as part of the assembly like before. It’s separate and not included with the crate motor. The only thing left is the vacuum connection. More on this later.

At the back of the intake, two things. At the top of the picture is where the system vents. To atmosphere like later generation Gen 2’s. At the bottom of the picture is the vacuum source. It's connected to item F in the previous picture. Based on the way it acted when I was testing, I suspect there’s an internal reservoir like the Gen 2’s. But I don’t have a source that confirms. Regardless, it’s a direct connection.



So, armed with that information, the vacuum connection to activate the CMCV function on the Gen 3 Coyote appears to be as simple as making a single connection between one of the two vacuum sources at the front of the intake and the vacuum connection for the CMCV. I chose to use the smaller vacuum connection, which is used for the purge valve in a stock setup as already mentioned. But since there’s no purge valve here, and I had a connector that already fit, I used that one and capped the larger vacuum source. Note I removed the throttle body and confirmed both vacuum sources are open into the intake. So for this purpose I believe they are interchangeable.

The other consideration is the vacuum signal for the fuel regulator. Both the Ford Performance and Factory Five instructions show using a fuel pressure regulator with a vacuum signal reference. Some builds use the GM style regulator back by the fuel tank, which is fixed and doesn’t have provision for a vacuum reference signal. Apparently it works fine. But, on a side note, the Ford Performance instructions for the Gen 3 Coyote say to set the fuel regulator at 65 PSI. Clearly more than the 55 PSI for the previous versions, and more than the fixed 58 PSI of the GM style regulator. Additionally, some custom tuners will tell you to remove the vacuum reference line, plug it, and let the regulator vent to atmosphere. Lund Racing told me that for #8674 and I’ve heard the same from at least one other tuner. Not sure about any of that. For my build with the Gen 3 I’m using a typical Aeromotive regulator, will set it for 65 PSI as instructed, and will plumb the vacuum line. If the vacuum reference signal isn't required in the future, easy to remove. So this means a “T” or “Y” connection in the vacuum line.

So I came up with this combination of parts to connect everything, mostly with parts I already had on hand. It’s not elegant, but it should do the job.



Installed, looks like this. As you can see, I capped the larger vacuum connection as mentioned before. Also all the other connections (heater hoses, PCV, radiator, etc.) are now completed.



That’s it! As they say on one of the car shows, “Job done.” Hopefully... Yesterday I filled the system with 50/50 Prestone. Put in just under 4 gallons. I’ll check it and top off if needed once it’s run. Running out of things to do with the Coyote installation. Digging deep into wiring in the cockpit now. First start is getting closer.

[Fixit]

You can see here I’m using Gates SB PowerGrip heat shrink hose clamps. Have them most everywhere including the heater hoses. First time I’ve used them and I’m pleased with how they install. All the reviews say they grip and hold as well or better than typical metal hose clamps.

I'll vouch for the PowerGrip clamps. I was introduced to them about 8 years ago by a friend doing an LS swap in a '65 Skylark, and I've got them on my '65 El Camino. They're expensive little buggers, with no margin for error - but they work sweet and look good.

[edwardb]

Around Christmas and New Year activities, a few bowl games, etc. have been plugging away on cockpit wiring. It’s slow going because I’m working hard to keep everything as compact as possible, and away from required routings for A/C and heat ducts. Plus I tend to test things as I go. I wasn’t sure I would have to, but ended up removing the two rear harness connectors and hard wiring those. Took some unneeded length out plus the bulk of the connectors. Also removed the connector for the sender branch. Will direct wire those as well. It all adds up. Adjusted the headlight switch branch so it lands where it’s supposed to on the dash without a lot of extra. I’m temporarily using the kit supplied manual ignition switch. Decided to wire the Digital Guard Dog keyless ignition setup later after first start. I’m confident it will be OK. But just taking that out of the equation for now. All the wiring connections are crimped, very light touch of solder, and adhesive lined heat shrink sleeving. Same as I’ve done on previous builds. Not saying that's the only way to do it. Just my preference.

Wired up and successfully tested so far: All the exterior lights including backup lights, high and low beam headlights, brake lights, etc. Don’t have the switches in for the hazards or turn signals yet. But with jumpers I can make them work. The T56 reverse lockout module is working. At rest it’s got the reverse solenoid on like it’s supposed to. So slides right into reverse. I’ll be checking to make sure it switches off in motion based on the signal from the speed sensor. But can’t do that yet. Fuel pump and radiator cooling fan work. I’m saving wiring for accessories such as the A/C and heat, heated seats, wipers, washers, fog lights, and aux ports until after first start and when I start wiring the switch panel. But I've probed all the leads and they all have +12V when they're supposed to. No smoke yet, and hope to keep it that way.

I’ve also tested the Gen 3 Coyote a bit. Key on wakes it up. Throttle body is responding to the accelerator pedal. The ODB2 port is active. Turning the key to start without the clutch pedal does nothing like it’s supposed to. With the clutch pedal down the starter engages. So all perfect there. I didn’t hook the fuel pump wire to the RF fuse panel yet because I don’t want to be running the pump in a dry tank. But testing it with a VOM. It acts differently than my Gen 2. I think it’s OK but checking with Ford. Won’t explain any further until I get an answer. Don’t want to give out bad information. Also found that removing the stock oil pressure sensor is not a popular move with the PCM. Keeps throwing codes related to that. Plugged the sensor back in and the codes stopped. I was told the sensor isn’t active in the crate motor program, so made sense to simplify and just replace it with the Speedhut sensor. But apparently the PCM is still checking for it. I’ve got that open question with Ford as well.

So, for pictures, I posted this one a few weeks ago. Safe to say this was before doing much with the cockpit wiring.



This is from a few minutes ago.



More work and some clean-up to do yet, but hopefully it looks a little different. On the RH side, can see where the master disconnect is located and where the main power from the master disconnect comes into the cockpit area. The bus bar (cover not installed yet) has the RF power and alternator leads, plus powers three of the four circuit breakers at the center. The breakers are for the fog lights, headlight module, and two aux ports. The USB aux port will be powered by one of the accessory leads from the Digital Guard Dog. The other aux port I’m going to leave straight to battery. Will need to be careful, but did that intentionally so I can plug my battery tester and trickle charger there versus the somewhat inconvenient battery location. The ODB2 port is just visible on the angled frame piece below the steering column. I’m in the process of installing the inertia switch on the DS tunnel inside the angled frame piece. Room there plus reachable from the driver’s seat. The two open connectors above the steering column are for the dash/gauge cluster. Once the position is finalized above the ducts for the defroster and LH outlet, I'll mount the harness on the gauge cluster with the mating connectors oriented accordingly. My plan has always been to have the dash/gauge cluster removable, providing access to all the behind the dash wiring. So far, on track.

Just a couple more details here, then need to punch through the firewall for the engine sending units, tach, and alternator. Then this will be as far as I’m going to take the cockpit right now. Then will wire the gauge cluster and should be ready for first start.

[edwardb]

Making progress. RF wiring from cockpit to engine compartment done. Gauge cluster wiring done. More progress with the balance of the cockpit wiring. Details with each pic.

One of the charms starting with the Gen 2 Coyote is no tach wire in the control pack. Gen 3 is no different. I mentioned earlier, but I did ask Ford about this. They said starting with the generation PCM in the Gen 2, there were no useable tach signals from the system for aftermarket tachs. Said that most installations will require a tach adapter. Fortunately, for those of us using the Speedhut gauges, it only takes a signal wire and no adapter. One of their programmable settings it based on having a single signal from one of the Coil on Plug (COP) modules. But it does require breaking into the harness to tap the wire. On the Gen 2 in #8674 I broke into cylinder #7. That seemed to fall in line with the harness from the cockpit. On the Gen 3 though, Ford has changed the layout and cylinder #5 worked out better. Doesn’t matter. All the COP modules have 2 wires. One is common to all, the other is the signal wire for that cylinder. The signal wire is the one you want. I showed more detail in the #8674 build thread. Basically, get the tape insulation off the two wires, then with a sharp knife or X-Acto, carefully remove about 1/4-inch or so of insulation from an appropriate location on the signal wire without nicking or cutting the wire. Then attach a length of wire. I did my usual crimp and touch of solder. Then wrap with a piece of electrical tape and restore the original harness tape. You can see my finished product here. I had to put a small amount of electrical tape on the outside at the top where the original harness tape was damaged when I pulled it back. The rest unwound and went back fine. I put a female spade connector on the end, and covered the wire and connector with shrink sleeve. Now ready to receive the tach wire from the cockpit. The Speedhut tach needs to be programmed to the .5 pulse per rev setting. Very important to get the proper reading on the tach.



With that, I was able to punch through the firewall and hook up the balance of the connections from the cockpit. Tach (described above), water temp, oil pressure, and the battery charging wire from the alternator. Engine connections are now completed. Wrapped up some more details in the cockpit wiring. Remaining are turn signal/hazards, wiper washer, and my center switch panel which includes the heat/AC connections. But nothing that prevents first start.



Then onto the gauge cluster. As of this afternoon, it’s done and everything lights and works the way it’s supposed to. Voltage gauge is working. Should see the gas gauge when I finally put some gas in the tank. The rest will be tested with the engine actually running to see tach, water temp and oil pressure. Speedo acquires GPS and I’m sure it will work fine whenever this thing moves under its own power.

To start, as mentioned before, wanted the harness to be oriented in the proper location to meet up with the connectors behind the dash plus stay out of the way of the heat/AC ducting. Decided I wanted something to hang the harness and connector leads on so it stays in the right place plus not tugging on all the wiring connections. After thinking about it a bit, quickly fabbed up a bracket that goes under one of the gauge retainer rings and allows me to secure the harness leads.



Installed on the tach gauge, finalized the location, and took the “before” picture.



Some hours later, everything all hooked up and tested. Still haven’t figured out the best way to manage the two daisy chains Speedhut uses for the gauges. No way to make them very pretty, and don’t want to get carried away and make service difficult should the need arise. So basically, just stack them up and secure with tie wraps. Couple clips and everything will be loose again. With a little creativity I was able to get every connection required for the gauge cluster through the two existing connectors except the GPS antenna.



This Saturday we’re having another open house with our local club like the one we did last year. Lots of folks interested in the Coupe build and hopefully they’ll agree there’s some progress. Fun to share and I enjoy their company. Just a few more loose ends and should be ready for first start. Stay tuned.

[Papa]

Nice clean wiring, as always.

Dave

[stevant]

Can’t say anything more than others already have expressed......amazing progress, awesome attention to detail.

Great job Paul...... been away too long, have a lot of good posts to read!!!

[wareaglescott]

Looks great Paul! Eagerly awaiting first start

[edwardb]

Today finished the last details before first start, so went for it. No particular surprises really. Put fuel in the tank for the first time. Nearly all of a 5 gallon can and shows a little under 1/4 full on the gauge. Good. Took a bit to get the Aeromotive regulator set. Needs to be 65 PSI, according to the Ford instructions, for the Gen 3 Coyote. The short bursts of the fuel pump when turning the key to run was taking a long time and didn't seem to tell me much. So just hot wired the fuel pump so it would run continuously with the key off (clip lead into the RF fuse panel) and that worked. The regulator was way off and I would probably never have gotten it set without doing it that way. Checked all the fuel lines and connections and no signs of any leaks. With that, no more excuses. So set the camera on a tripod, had a fire extinguisher nearby and cranked away. It didn't jump to life like my previous Coyote. But still started and all good. Had immediate oil pressure and tach reading. Plus voltage jumped up a bit so the alternator was working. Some smoke off the new headers, but that cleared. After the first 1 minute or so run, stopped and looked everything over. No sign of any leaks or any issues. Ran it a few more times. Subsequent starts were nearly instant like I'm used to. Water temp gauge and cooling fan work. Since the rear wheels were off the ground, ran the transmission through a couple gears. All good, and the reverse lockout module is working properly. These aren't the greatest videos, but you get the idea. The last video, with the engine at temp, hit it harder a couple times. It sounds angry. I have temporary Roadster side pipes on it right now. BTW, the first video is the real deal. Actually is the very first attempt to start. No camera tricks.

https://youtu.be/4ytnm8CV5ZQ

https://youtu.be/aESV65nw4ok

https://youtu.be/6ZqzZrdcMSY

https://youtu.be/LY6-IUp3na8

[Papa]

Congratulations, Paul. Sounds perfect!

[JohnK]

Congratulations! It does sound angry It must feel very nice to have a successful first start behind you now, given that you were blazing the gen3 Coyote trail on this one.

[Garry Bopp]

Congratulations, Paul. Motor sounds great!

Garry

[Erik W. Treves]

Niiiice... great job

[Paul2STL]

Congratulations!!! Nice job Paul, your work is top notch as always.

[Straversi]

Congratulations. Making it look easy.
-Steve

[Fisher Lake Hot Rods]

Wow!!! Sounds awesome. Also want to thank you for the excellent build thread and for answering my questions. That Gen 3 sounds incredible.

[cgundermann]

Sounds nasty! Congratulations!

Chris

[BadAsp427]

Congrats Paul.... top notch all the way... but that is what we all expect.... Your work is awesome as always!!!

[Jazzman]

Fantastic Paul!! Congratulations on this milestone, and thank you again for taking us all along with you on the journey!

[P100DHG]

Congratulations! What an achievement! Amazing DIY engineering. What an understatement but none the less. Excellent work!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Big congratulations to you Paul!

Jeff

[Higgybulin]

Well done sir!!
Higgy

[freds]

Super!....and what everyone else has said. I hope you slept well last night...you absolutely should have.
fred

[David Williamson]

Sounds great but when are you going to share the details on the real side pipes?
David W

[edwardb]

Sounds great but when are you going to share the details on the real side pipes?
David W

I will. Promise. When the time comes.

[RR20AC]

Very Nice. Congrats Paul!

[q4stix]

Great to see this happen! Sounds great as everyone has already said and it all looks like a super clean install as always. Congrats!

[edwardb]

Been a while since my last update. But working on getting all the wiring done and everything tested. Good news. As of this morning, I’m mostly done. Temporarily hooked up all the lights and went through every combination I could think of without the engine running, and then again with the engine running. All the lights, horn, turn signals, hazards, brake lights, back-up lights, switches, gauges, accessories, everything, all work as they’re supposed to. Can’t find any faults at this time. So I’ll get things cleaned up and move on. Final electrical will be when the body is on. Then can get the final length on the lighting cables and add connectors. Same for the wipers. That should go quickly. In previous updates, I already described having the main chassis, power, under hood including Coyote, and gauge cluster wired. What remained was the cockpit and everything that goes on there. Took longer than I expected but what’s new. As has been mentioned several times, my goals here are to keep everything as neat and serviceable as possible while maintaining as much open space as possible for the heat/A-C ducting. I think it’s going to work.

This was little over a week ago:



Now essentially completed and looks like this. The loose wires on the right are the wipers, washer, and RH footwell light. All tested but not tied down yet. Will be once the body is on.



Closer view. Visible here, left to right at the top, are relays for the headlight reminder and fog lights, headlight module, keyless start module, T-56 reverse lock-out module, and ground bus bar. At the bottom (right behind the switches) the Watson’s Streetworks headlight reminder and the Cole Hersee wiper/washer switch. Couple words about the relays. One has sense wires from the headlight switch and the ignition switch. If the ignition is off and the headlight switch is on, it powers the reminder which lights and beeps until you do something. The fog light relay has a sense wire from the headlight switch and allows the fog lights to only be powered on when the headlight switch is in the first or second position. So you could leave the fog light switch on all the time, and they would go off and on with the headlight switch. Most DD’s are wired this way. The Cole Hersee wiper switch I’ve talked about before. Also works basically like a DD. Push and you get washer and a few swipes of the wiper. Turning it on, it has a range of intermittent speeds, then a low and high setting. Works really well. The A/C switch, fan, and temp controls are placed here instead of the using the separate panel from Factory Five. The switches need to be labelled. Looking for some options for stick-on icons, or maybe have the knobs engraved or laser etched. Haven’t looked real hard yet.



This is a little bit of a busy picture, but shows the connections to the Russ Thompson turn signal using 2-pin and 3-pin AMP connectors. The 2-wire is the momentary switch which give flash-to-pass and normal low-high beam function. The 3-wire is for turn signals. The bumps in the line are diodes because my hazard switch is only a single pole. Based on changes I made, none of the turn signal, hazard, or headlight wiring is in the dash harness any longer except for the indicator lights. Made things a bit simpler. The two larger connectors are for the gauge panel.



This is all the wire that was removed from the RF and Coyote harnesses. Plus a few of the wired accessories, but mostly from the harnesses. Makes me tired looking at it. But done.



A few words about some of the major wiring. The heated seats from Corbeau had several feet of unneeded wire harness length plus multiple connectors. Slimmed it down to just what was needed. The connectors under the seats that hook each one up. Then the connectors in the center panel to the switches. Everything else is shortened and hard wired. Not complicated, but exceptionally tedious because all but the main power and ground were tiny delicate wires. I don’t have a schematic, but pretty sure they’re for the relay box under the seat for the high and low settings. But done and works. Took both seats for a test drive.

Spent a lot of time getting the heat/A-C system wired up and checked up. There’s a harness in the engine compartment to be made connecting the trinary switch on top of the receiver/drier, the compressor clutch, and the heater control valve. Those hook up in the cockpit with the evaporator fan, thermostat, and control knobs and switch. The instructions from Factory Five are very thorough and detailed (100+ pages for everything) but when it came to the wiring I found them slightly confusing. I did most of my work from the schematic versus multiple pages of hooking this color to that color. Especially since I changed things up a bit so the harness was a little more hidden. Happy to report that when it was all wired everything worked. Mostly. Ran the engine long enough to get some temp in the coolant and had heat. I didn’t expect the A-C system would cool because it isn’t charged. But panicked some that turning the system on didn’t start the compressor. Checked and double checked my wiring, and popped a fuse sticking a probe in the wrong place. (oops) About 2 minutes searching on Google demonstrated that I’m about the only person on the planet apparently that doesn’t know that the trinary switch won’t let the compressor start if there’s no pressure in the system, e.g. at least a partial charge. My complete lack of experience in this area shows big time. But I did confirm I have +12V on one side of the trinary switch so the A-C switch is working. Also confirmed if I put +12V directly on the compressor clutch wires it clicks on and off. Confirmed as well the compressor clutch resistance and current draw are in spec. So I’m sure it will work once it’s charged. Thinking about buying the gear to do that myself (more learning and less outside hands on my build) but not sure. Plenty of time to decide.

I saved wiring the keyless push button start system until last. I wanted to make sure everything else worked exactly right since several have indicated some challenges with systems like this. Not necessarily this brand, but these systems in general. Nothing worse than chasing multiple electrical gremlins at the same time. Plus it was just easier to switch a key on and off while doing all the wiring, testing, etc. Anyway, with everything else done and working, went for it. I described before why I selected the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-1 system and that I had played around with it on the bench to confirm it worked plus had the lead connections all mapped out. So it was pretty easy to remove the ignition key and re-route the wires to the system. Basically, it has the same wires as the regular ignition key: Battery, accessory, ignition, and start. The PBS-1 has an additional accessory lead that I used to power my USB auxiliary port (through a circuit breaker), needs a couple grounds, and also needs a lead from the brake switch. With everything wired up, followed the instructions for start-up and checkout, and all good. Works exactly as it’s supposed to. Really happy with it. It’s basically the same as the pushbutton start in our Durango and I think most other DD’s with this feature. When it comes into range from the key fob, there’s a light in the start button. Without doing anything, one push for accessory one, second push for accessory two, third push for ignition on, and fourth push it turns back off. At any time, with your foot on the brake, the light starts blinking and pushing the button starts the engine. I would say the only thing that’s slightly different from our DD is for this system you also have to push the brake down to stop the engine. Makes sense since our Durango must be in park for the button to shut it off. Same idea and accommodates the aftermarket for either manual or automatic transmissions. The other feature I decided I like is the key fobs can be either in manual or automatic mode. Automatic is the usual function of getting in range and the systems automatically unlocks and is ready to start. Manual means you have to push a button on the key fob to lock or unlock the system. The instructions recommend leaving it in manual while doing the build and maybe even later when working on it, at a car show, whatever. The range is pretty long. What I found is if the key fob is in the garage, the system is unlocked. Not as finely tuned as our Durango, where you have to basically be in the driver’s seat before the start button is active. But then you’re talking a universal system versus one that’s tuned for a specific vehicle. Anyway, really happy with how it works and I highly recommend if you’re looking for this function. Not cheap, but how many times have I said that? I’m using the simple start only PBS-1 model. They have other models that do more, like locking/unlocking doors, etc.

[edwardb]

This build will have windshield washers as I’ve mentioned before. I’ve managed to skate by the police safety inspection on this one on previous builds. Charitable officers have checked the box even though I haven’t installed them before. So went for it this time. The wiper switch I’ve mentioned integrates it easily and uses the same power as the wipers. For some time now, I’ve been looking for a tank and pump system I thought would work. I don’t expect to use it much, so don’t need a big reservoir plus space is limited. Plus from what I could see, many of the aftermarket tank and pump systems looked really cheap and of marginal quality. Or are purpose made for vehicles in all kinds of crazy shapes. After a bunch more searching this week, pushed the order button on a 060800-0550 Denso Heavy Duty Windshield Washer Kit. Denso is one of the world’s largest automotive suppliers (my former company competed with them, or tried to) and makes quality parts. So hoped this was better than your average aftermarket product. Listed lots of places, but Amazon had them so bought it there. Interestingly, shipped from an RV supply store and learned this setup is widely used on certain RV’s. There were no dimensions on any listings that I could find. But comparing to other units, looked smaller than average, so took a chance. Arrived today and I think it’s going to be perfect. The tank is 5-1/2” wide, 7” tall, and 3-1/2” deep and holds slightly less than 2 quarts. Fits right where I was hoping it would fit. On the lower RH side of the firewall. Seems like a heavy duty and well-made piece.



Something else I’ve been looking at and researching is side mirrors. One common feedback I get about the Daytona Coupe, Factory Five and otherwise, is rear vision isn’t the best. The single bullet mirror in the kit is maybe legal but less than what I want. Another build thread mentioned side mirrors from Peter Brock. (https://bre2.net/) Looked at those plus other builds and other options. Finally decided to go with the mirrors from Peter. Again, not cheap (yet again??) but couldn’t find any that I liked better and kind of cool to have something from him on my build. The mirror body can optionally be painted body color. Will see about that. He recommends leaving the stalk and mount satin black as they come. Liked how they came with backing plates to go inside the doors where they attach. Little concerned about the width since they stick out quite a bit, and my trailer (when used) isn't very wide. But now that I have them, looks like I could fold them back if necessary. Anyway, quality looks great and should be another nice and very functional addition.



With all the progress, do have a couple issues to deal with. I noticed a couple days after the first start I had a few drops of power steering fluid on the floor. Have been watching it. Not a gusher, but definitely wet most of the time from the pulley bearing location and occasionally enough to drip. Talked to KRC, and looks like it’s going to have to go back for warranty repair or replacement. I mentioned the Honda power steering fluid and he said they’ve had a couple examples of that fluid being corrosive. Haven’t heard that from anyone else plus I’ve used it successfully in #8674 with zero issues. But he also said the newer aluminum pump for this build has a different seal than the older steel pump. It will go back and maybe I’ll switch to their fluid. The other issue is I’ll be sending my PCM back to Ford. The MIL doesn’t work. With an MIL ON indication seen by scanning the ODB2 port, the light isn’t on. Received word a few days ago that their engineers agree it’s not working on the Gen 3 Coyote crate. So they’ll ask for the PCM back once they have the program updated. This will be second turnaround on the PCM. Had another minor issue right after I installed it which they resolved and turned around the next day. I found out from talking to them the other day I have serial number one of the production Gen 3 Coyote crates. I asked if I should be excited or nervous. The answer was excited of course. There were several that went out before mine. But they were to the press, etc. and not actual customer deliveries. In the same conversation though they confirmed my PCM is the latest version (they call it a calibration) so whatever issues I might be having (or success, e.g. first start) are the same as everyone else. Will get resolved. I’m not too worried about either issue and now is the time to get that stuff sorted out.

That’s it finally. I have a list of minor things to wrap up. Then will start body fitting. Looking forward to getting to that stage.

[Matt K.]

Outstanding job on the wiring Paul. A first class job.

[frd2]

I charged my ac system by borrowing the gauges and vac pump from autozone. Worked fine.

[edwardb]

I charged my ac system by borrowing the gauges and vac pump from autozone. Worked fine.

Great suggestion. I hadn't thought of those being in their tool program. I'll check into that before doing anything. Thanks.

[frd2]

Make sure u know the proper amount of oil to add if you do it.

[GoDadGo]

The more work you do on this car, the less likely I feel like I'll ever tackle one.
Great Work As Always & I'm Sure It Will Be A Show Stopper!
Steve