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A Big Congratulations From The Swamp Lands Of Louisiana!
Congratulations Mark! Love to see the look of happiness and relief we all get when it finally comes to life. Bet the boys love that sound.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Nice video Mark, sounds awesome. Good to here you pushing through making good progress. First go cart ride will be soon!
MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +,First Start 4/7/18, First Go-Cart 4/22/18, In gelcoat, licensed and driving 8/11/18. Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Halibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Cobra front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering. Paint Jeff Miller Da Bat, Lexus Spectra Blue Mica W/Toyota Silver Sky Metallic strips. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Paul2STL-Build
Looks like your still enjoying your build. Congrats on the first start. You'll be driving in no time.
20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Jeff Miller. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017, 3000 mile inspection on 1/14/19.
Mark
Thats awesome. Looks like youre having a blast. Youll be driving it soon. Congratulations
build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-USRRC-vspeeds
Build School: July 14-16, 2017
Kit purchased: July 25, 2017
Kit delivered: September 13, 2017
First Start: December 22, 2018
Body painted and kit completed and drivable: July 2019 (but still not done)
CA SB100 Registration: January 2020
Mk4 - 289 USRRC Roadster kit, Roush 427SR with Schneider Racing custom camshaft, Fitech EFI, TKO600 (.64-5th gear), 15" wheels, stock brake calipers, under car exhaust with Spintech 7000 muffler, no roll bar, Russ Thompson turn signal, removable steering wheel, and many other small upgrades and modifications
Congrats! Well done.
MKIV complete kit w/powder coating and cut outs, serial #9189 delivered 10/10/17, first start - 10/5/18, legal - 10/08/20. Blueprint 306 w/Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, power steering, Breeze fan shroud, trunk cubby, & engine compartment battery kit, CNC brake reservoirs, RT turn signal & gas pedal, mechanical throttle linkage, METCO safety loop, GASN side pipes, drop trunk, dual chrome roll bars, vintage gauges, glove box, custom center console, cup holders, and speakers.
WooHoo! Congrats!!
---Boyd---
MkIV #9042 build thread
www.boss427.us
427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019
With my recent first start I realized that my brake lines were a little close to the CATS, so I moved them, again and hopefully for the last time. I'm not sure how I didn't notice this before with all my meticulous planning. Here are the photos. I was a little irritated at first but find that I kind of enjoy routing brake lines.
I then had to bleed the lines (including hydraulic clutch) so I decided to go ahead and replace my DOT 3 fluid with DOT 4 RACING fluid. I used this slick CNC brake bleeding cap thing that makes this an easy one person job. I love this little gadget.
Next, I worked on centering my power steering rack. I found this thread helpful,
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...etup-Procedure
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
I cut 1/4" off the aft limb of the UCA to help obtain 8° castor
I have been puzzling with alignment in the back of my head since build school. I am determined to figure it out myself. Trusting a shop to do it doesn't seem like a good idea. Plus, this gave me a reason to buy a self leveling laser and some Longacre alignment equipent. I fixed the laser level at 90* to the chassis to help figure out trueing up the wheels.
Of course, I double checked using the string method.
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
I fabricated and installed a clutch pedal stop bracket. I copied this directly out of the 40 watt garage build thread. Thanks Fixit! I'll powder coat it later.
I also tapped into the blue cooling fan power wire in the front harness and wired in a cooling fan LED light for the dash as per instruction from Edwardb. Thanks Paul! I don't have a photo of that but I did test it and it works!
I must say that I love just firing up the 9130 and listening to her purr. Can hardly wait to start go karting !!
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
I put together the Cobraheat seat heaters. Pretty straightforward. I hope that spray adhesive holds them in place.
I think that they must have shortened the cables that come with these things, I couldn't get them to reach the aft part of the cockpit. I was hoping I could get them to come out behind the restraint anchors.
this will have to do.
I am in the middle of wiring mayhem but little by little it is starting to make sense. I am making meticulous notes of my progress. I have been puzzling over the switched power source and wiring for some time. I decided to hit the EASY button and get a fuse box from Painless for my 12V switched power. I will run it off of the Electric choke feed with the power coming from the Busbar. This thing is really nice for inexperienced folks like myself. It comes all prewired with two relays, two circuit breakers, and seven switched sources for all my ridiculous electrical mods...
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
Mark,
I Truly Hated The Wiring Aspect Of The Build!
Wish Papa Lived Near Me For This Talks!
Good Luck From The Dark-Dart Side!
Steve
I was hoping to be finished with my wiring at this point but I am stalled and waiting for parts. I made the mistake of ordering some LED dash lights from a shop in Australia which are being shipped on the slow boat.
I want my seats to be tilted back for comfort and the Breeze brackets were appealing but I realized I had enough scrap aluminum and some long acre ramps (which I won't use for their intended purpose) to build my own brackets.
Pretty straight forward and completely modeled after the Breeze units. The driver side is adjustable. The base plate on the left is 3/16" steel, I welded in some 5/16" studs to mount the adjustable bracket.
powder coated:
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
I ordered the Breeze splined quick release steering wheel hub kit. It is top notch and I am very happy with it. The instructions are meticulous but I found them puzzling, that is, it calls for removing the upper steering shaft to properly align the steering wheel to the polished aluminum hub adapter. I read through the instructions several times and it was clear to me that I would screw it up doing it that way. Also, my steering shaft has been in and out multiple times and it is now in with red loctite everywhere including set screws and its not coming out unless I rearend a parked car doing 70mph. I searched both forums to see if anyone posted installation without removing the steering shaft but came up empty handed.
The polished aluminum hub adapter has two concentric circles. The smaller circle fits snuggly over the steering shaft and the larger circle is the same size as the inner circle of the steering wheel which just fits the billet aluminum FFR badge thing. It made sense to me that these two circles need to line up perfectly in order for the badge to fit and this should center up the steering wheel perfectly on the shaft. I saw no reason I couldn't just do this on my bench and then just mount the whole thing. That is what I did.
I started by cutting off 5/8" of the steering shaft so the length would be appropriate.
Next I welded the spline to the shaft.
I then carefully aligned the steering wheel to the polished aluminum hub adapter and drilled and tapped the six holes for mounting. I used a drill press for the drilling. I put it all together and it came out nice. The arrow in this photo shows the two circles, the inner being on the polished aluminum hub adapter and outer being on the steering wheel, which needed to line up perfectly.
Very happy with the outcome.
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
Looking good Mark. I see youre really getting your moneys worth using your welder and powder coating accessories.
build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-USRRC-vspeeds
Build School: July 14-16, 2017
Kit purchased: July 25, 2017
Kit delivered: September 13, 2017
First Start: December 22, 2018
Body painted and kit completed and drivable: July 2019 (but still not done)
CA SB100 Registration: January 2020
Mk4 - 289 USRRC Roadster kit, Roush 427SR with Schneider Racing custom camshaft, Fitech EFI, TKO600 (.64-5th gear), 15" wheels, stock brake calipers, under car exhaust with Spintech 7000 muffler, no roll bar, Russ Thompson turn signal, removable steering wheel, and many other small upgrades and modifications
I have spent some time customizing my dash and powder coating it. I actually purchased a cow hide to cover the dash but I didn't really like how it looked on my practice pieces. This powder coating method is a bit unorthodox but it works. I kept the fire extinguisher handy...
I wired it up and tried to button down the loose ends.
Tested the dashlights, this is encouraging. I must have done something right.
installed.
Fired up the engine but I'm having serious stalling issues. Not sure why, planning to rerun the sniper setup wizard again this weekend but if that doesn't solve my stalling problems I may start a thread for help.
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
Could be the same issue with the oval filter as seen in this post by Wallace18 or other RF interference. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post367766
Last edited by Greg K; 06-11-2019 at 11:05 AM.
Looking good, Doc! Your dash is a unorthodox, but I like it . . . then again, I like unorthodox!! Are the green LED's in the gauges a hint as to a color scheme? Keep up the good work!
Jazzman
MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.
1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021
Roadster Frame Dolly Plan
Thanks Kevin but I'm afraid my color scheme is still up in the air!
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
OK, this is a huge milestone for me, coming in at 22 months from delivery I am now officially go karting!!!! Here is a video my wife shot of me today. Just ignore the fact that I haven't installed the seat belts yet...
https://youtu.be/WluHDIu14ik
Truth be told I actually drove around the block a couple of times last weekend to calibrate the Speedometer but this is my official first go kart video. I must say I love the way this car drives and feels, even in this primitive form.
I have been reading the Holley Sniper manual which talks about the "First Drive" and building up to harder acceleration runs including WOT runs!! I can't imagine a WOT run right now. I'm not sure I even got it much over 2000 rpm. This baby has POWER!!!
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
I had trouble getting my "Autometer" speedometer to function. I followed the Chassis wiring harness manual and the MK4 manual but there was this unanswered question of this gray wire labelled "speed sensor" and COMPLETELY ignored in the manuals.
I couldn't figure out what to do with it. The autometer instructions have about six different ways to hook up the speedometer depending on your set up and none of them seemed like what I have. I have the Ultra-Lite Guages with Sniper EFI, Tremec TKO 600 transmission. I finally just grounded that gray wire and now the speedometer works! I don't know why they don't just call it a speedometer ground. Frustrating.
I had plugged my rear wiring harness into the electronic speedometer port, shown below. I never installed that mechanical speedometer gear that came with my kit. That thing seemed flimsy and I'm glad I didn't need it.
At any rate, if you are a newby and your speedometer isn't working this post could possibly save you some time.
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
So, the only other gauge that isn't working is my oil temp gauge. I have the Autometer Ultra-lite gauges and I really like how they look and they seem to be functioning well other than the oil temperature gauge. I did a continuity test with my ohmmeter because I figured the problem was probably with my substandard wiring technique. To my surprise the wiring was good and there was continuity from the sensor to the gauge. Therefore, the problem had to be either the sensor or the gauge itself. I emailed Autometer tech support and actually received two emails from two different technicians giving me the same advice (encouraging) on how to test both the gauge and then the sensor. First up, the guage. Their instructions were to ground the sending terminal with nothing else connected to the terminal and power up the gauge. If the pointer deflects past 250 the gauge is good. The result...
The gauge is good! Next up the sensor. The advice was to measure the ressistance across the sensor which should be 1100 ohms at 100 degrees, dropping to 65 ohms at 250. I watched some youtube videos on how to do this, no big deal, I did it, and sure enough the sensor checks out ok!
Now I'm confused. My gauge checks ok, the connecting wires between the gauge and sensor are good, and the sensor is good. Why doesn't the thing function properly?? One of the youtube videos recommended not using teflon tape on the NPT threads to the sensor because it would inhibit the ground. I don't use teflon tape but I do use this stuff. And it works great.
Here is a photo of my sensor.
I thought maybe the Loctite thread sealer was messing up the ground so I cleaned it all off and tried again. Still no Oil Temperature gauge function and now I have oil leaking out around the sensor!
I touched a ground wire to the sensor and the gauge kicked in! So I went ahead and wired a ground to the sensor, reapplied Loctite threadsealer, and now the Oil temp gauge works just fine. Here is a photo.
I don't know why the sensor didn't just ground itself through the NPT threads but the recurring theme of grounding the shietz out of this car keeps coming up in my build. I ground everything.
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
I had to do a similar thing, but I drilled and tapped my sandwich adapter so that I could attach a ground wire.
For the record I think your solution is better and easier than mine was.
Do you have a ground strap from the engine to the frame? Was your gauge grounded to the frame?
Also wondering if the mount that the sending unit is screwed into has a gasket between it and the engine, sealing potential oil leaks and "insulating" the electrical connection.
Last edited by Ducky2009; 06-28-2019 at 08:51 AM.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
I have two grounds from the engine to the chassis, both of them with 2 AWG cable. The gauge is also grounded to the chassis in sequence with other guages and they all seemed to check out ok with my ohmmeter. The answer to your last question is that I'm not exactly sure. I put it in last march and don't really remember. It is an adapter I purchased from Forte but is a Canton racing part. As I recall everything screwed together and there was some sort of gasket in there somewhere. The other thing I was wondering is that maybe the adapter has powder coating which prevented a ground ?????
Mark
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
Like Dr. Mark, I also have two ground straps on the engine.
I got a lot of wiring done this weekend starting with my heater after I fried my switch a couple months ago. I took CraigS's advice and just removed the actuator cable and will just use the knob to run the fan. I wired my cubby and trunk lights using my Painless fuse block as the 12V source. I wired my stereo harness. Then I installed my fancy regulation FFR horns. I was thinking that these are one of the few things that I haven't modified on my build although I did use this cool push button https://www.amazon.com/ESUPPORT-Mome...ct_top?ie=UTF8
Its a bit tricky and has five connections. I watched several youtube videos but still don't have it working correctly. No horn sound and no halo, yet. Thats ok I'm still basking in the glow of getting my oil temp gauge and speedometer working to be bummed out about my horns.
Finally, I wired up my awesome LED headlights. I'm really excited about these. I have spent a lot of time over the past two years looking at headlights. I bought these about nine months ago and I have been dying to hook them up. They are not exactly "period correct" but I am convinced that Carroll Shelby would have put these on the Cobra if they were available in 1965. How could he resist?
They are made by Lumen and are black projector headlights with switchback halo.
This is the DRL function
And here they are in their full glory
Thats a lot of lumens coming at you!!! I didn't get a good photo of it but the DRLs blink yellow with the turn signal or hazards. Everything seems to be functioning properly except my turn signals blow the fuse after about three blinks.
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
It has been a brutal week at work, I was on call Monday night and last night and was pretty much up working all night on both occasions. I managed to crawl out of the hospital at noon today and drag my carcass to the shop for my third brake light installation. Been planning for a while. Put in this 12mm LED which is IP65 weatherproof rated https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ght/1494/3435/
here are some photos
Hopefully this will help to keep me from getting run over by some DA in a monster truck...
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
A buddy of mine is an ex-race car driver. He convinced me to install a remote mount brake bias adjuster. Its a pretty simple device, and now is the time to do it. I purchased the Wilwood product from Summit. I have wildwood brakes so I figured I would use their device.
I routed it behind the firewall and secured it with hose clamps.
And the knob below the dash... (orange arrow)
I lubed the balance bar with anti-sieze. Turning the knob clockwise easily rotates the balance bar but when I turned counter clockwise the adjuster just backed off of the balance bar. I thought about putting in a set screw but that seemed a little too invasive so I put some red loctite where the nut screws into the balance bar. I hope this works...
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
When I ran one of these I installed on the right side away from the clutch pedal and locked it in place with a jam nut. Worked great. If you have problems with it and it's time to remove it that RED locktite is going to make you swear like a sailor and heating it hot enough to break the bond under there is going to be a challenge. Hope it last forever and works like a charm but if not, you may consider installing it on the other side.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
This post is about 6 weeks post hoc. I got the dash fully functioning. I'm pretty proud of myself, when I first wired it the Speedometer, tachometer, oil temperature, horn, and flashers were non functional despite my meticulous building technique. Everything is now functional, however, after about 45 miles of go carting the turn signal switch just popped off and went bye-bye. I ordered a new on from Ron Francis and WOW, it is a quality piece! Thinking about replacing all my toggles with Ron Francis parts...
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
That dash looks pretty cool.. I will tell you that I'm a bit concerned about the position of your turn switch. I think your door is either going to be hitting it when closed or it will be uncomfortably close to it. I actually had mine there and now I have a hole. But fortunately, it is hidden by the door when closed.
Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
Carb/Heater/Heated Seats/Cruise Control/Drop Trunk & Battery/Custom Cubby
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
Looking good! I've considered the brake bias adjuster too.
Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
Click here for my build thread
Serial #9158
Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines
I've made significant progress over the last 2 weeks. Installed the panels using Sikaflex 221. I used black but should have used another color because I got it all over everything including myself. Actually, on my next build I will use Dynatron 550 Auto Seam sealer to install the panels. I used it to fill gaps and really like the stuff.
I spent a lot of time finding and filling gaps with the Dynatron 550. There were gaps everywhere. I put silver tape on the back side and I'm just leaving it in place.
I came up with my own DS footbox mod. I basically just "man-jammed" the inner panel medially 3/8-1/2" and held with small angled panel, used Dynatron 550. I later painted lizard skin on it.
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
I cut 3/8" off the dash rolled lip and 1/4" off of the rear cockpit lip. That maneuver has been endorsed by Kleiner and J Miller. I'm planning to haul this thing to Miller for paint and body work some day... I also prepped the underside with 80 grit and cleaned with my Duplicolor degreaser/wax remover. It took the better part of a day to prep it for the Bedliner
I really like this stuff. I'm planning to spray it on the undercarriage and splash guards as well. Then I think I'll spray the bed of my truck with it.
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
This is fairly self explanatory. Takes forever to prep and mask. I used Red Scotchbrite and Duplicolor degreaser. Sprayed the sound barrier first, then the next day the ceramic heat barrier.
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
Looks good Mark.
build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-USRRC-vspeeds
Build School: July 14-16, 2017
Kit purchased: July 25, 2017
Kit delivered: September 13, 2017
First Start: December 22, 2018
Body painted and kit completed and drivable: July 2019 (but still not done)
CA SB100 Registration: January 2020
Mk4 - 289 USRRC Roadster kit, Roush 427SR with Schneider Racing custom camshaft, Fitech EFI, TKO600 (.64-5th gear), 15" wheels, stock brake calipers, under car exhaust with Spintech 7000 muffler, no roll bar, Russ Thompson turn signal, removable steering wheel, and many other small upgrades and modifications
My Quicktime bellhousing rides a bit below the chassis and I don't want it catching on any speed bumps or the like. Started by scoring it with my angle grinder.
Then used a plasma cutter...
smoothed it off a bit with a sanding blade on the angle grinder. I will paint with POR15 later.
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread