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Jazzman
MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.
1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 1/22/2021
Roadster Frame Dolly Plan
I hope you truly believe that "Imitation is the highest form of flattery". You've done inspiring work. Your documentation and helpfulness have allowed me to take my build further than I ever would have attempted on my own. Having your thread as a reference has eliminated so much of the guesswork and has made the experience much more enjoyable.
I can't say it enough. Thank you, Paul.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Thanks. That panel hit my leg at a bad angle. I knew if I didn't make an attempt to change it, it was going to bother me like a pebble in my shoe every time I drove it. I feel proud when I get creative with a panel and then I look at what you took on with that flip top. Man you have some serious stones. Can't wait to see it come back from paint.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Progressing with my cockpit wiring. This is a bit of an iterative process. I read somewhere in this forum to first wire effectively and then wire efficiently. I take that to mean, make sure it works before making it pretty.
First pass
Getting it in order
Checking to see if everything fits. I had to remake one of my grab handle support braces. When I made them I didn't have my lower dash board supports installed. When I buttoned it up completely one of my brackets no longer fit. I'm still undecided on a couple of options so final location of all switches is still up in the air.
Dash back off to add wiring for USB ports, courtesy lights, foot box fans, seat heaters. Also running wires for back up light and throwing one more lead in the bundle in case I decide to add anything else.
Regarding the courtesy lights, I had the kit supplied adhesive LED strip wired but hanging loose. It made contact with my frame and shorted out, melted actually. I was never a big fan of that light but was surprised to find out it was unsealed like that. I bought five of these sealed LED lights at FRY's. Installed three under my dash supports and added two more under the trunk hoop. They are bright and inexpensive and I don't have to worry about anything making contact with them and shorting them out.
I have a few more leads to trim or tuck in but I'll reinstall the dash again before I make any final adjustments. Not pretty but its coming together.
Regarding back-up lights. If you are planning to add a back-up light, it would have been much easier to add a wire to that RF rear harness in the beginning. Same goes for trunk lighting. Kind of a bear after everything is assembled. I never ran my license plate lead into my trunk either. Another small detail that would have been MUCH easier to do about 30 steps ago. I guess I never gave it any thought. I left that lead hanging out the rear with my tail light leads and never thought to run it up through the trunk floor.
I don't feel guilty about not going the the gym. I think I did 10K in-car sit ups and under-car crunches crawling around doing this wiring.
-Steve
Last edited by Straversi; 09-09-2017 at 10:15 AM.
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Finishing up the cockpit wiring. Working on my "Oh Crap" panel; battery disconnect, fuel pump shutdown and emergency hazards. I'm putting these all together below the dash, hopefully where they won't ever be needed.
I sketched out a few variations to get the spacing to suit my eye.
There are a number of available switch guards, but I couldn't find ones that allowed me to use the full length toggles and that were not overly large. After some trial and error, I made my own with a small tubing bender, 3/16" aluminum rod and a 10-32 thread tap. The tricky part was making four exactly the same.
Close enough.
Finished panel. I'll powder coat this black so it's not so prominent.
I do kind of like the all aluminum look.
Maybe a 33 in the future with aircraft style gauges....
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
your build looks great so far! It looks like you painted the front of your rear differeantial, what kind of paint did you use and did you need primer?
Last edited by Mark Eaton; 09-17-2017 at 06:38 PM.
Thanks Mark,
I bought a gallon of the POR 15 Metal Prep, pre-primer and spray cans of the self etching primer and the gloss black top coat. I've been using that three step procedure for every steel part I've painted. After the first can of POR 15 gloss top coat was finished, I switched to Eastwood chassis black. It dries harder and faster than the POR15 in my experience.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Thanks, I believe the kits comes with everything you need to get down the road, but the braided stainless lines are not included. Braided lines are made custom. You can buy the components and make them up yourself or work with a vendor. I did both. They take a lot of planning.
-Steve
Last edited by Straversi; 09-18-2017 at 10:06 AM.
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
I'm approaching a couple of milestones, first go-kart and putting the body back on. Starting to put some lists together for what needs to be done before either of these happen. I have plenty of work to do but I'm trying to prioritize those that need to be done now and those that can be put off until after my body leaves for paint. No sanding and painting for me brother, it will go off to a pro.
I invited Dan, aka Boat 737, who lives near by and is further along than I to come over and put another set of eyes on my project. Since Dan has his body on and his is a driving vehicle I figured he might spot some missed items and areas of concern. Thanks Dan! He was able to spot some areas I needed to address and also gave some time saving advice.
My brake balance bar was way out of whack. Dan showed me where that should be, at least for initial test drive.
I installed my horns. Dan pointed out that they were right were my fresh air hose ducts would run. Remounted those with nut-serts near the bottom of the fan shroud.
I installed my head lights, tail light and turn signals. All lights and turn signal work but not my hazards. Next time I have the dash off, I'll try to sort that out.
Installed my drive shaft. Had to grind the corner off the emergency brake line bracket for clearance.
I robbed the battery tender leads off my Caddy and installed them so I can keep the battery charged without accessing through the drop trunk battery mount. That was timely since I ran my battery down pretty good checking lights and turn signals.
We were discussing the alignment process and I noticed the grease boots on my lower pivots were torn, both sides. Bummer. That involved a moderately significant tear down. Although it was a PITA, I kept reminding myself that at least it wasn't rusty and re-reminded myself why I am building a Factory Five rather than rescuing some rusty muscle car hulk. Gotta love new parts!
Good chance to revisit some of the work I did a year ago when I was a year younger and a Factory Five year dumber. These are like dog years because I remember how nervous I was a year ago putting together some of these initial assemblies. It seems like a lot longer than 12 months.
Time flies when you are having fun and hemorrhaging cash.
Should have my replacement boots by tomorrow and then can reassemble and get back underway.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Hey Steve, you're build is nuts! the attention to detail is on another level. Wheres this greaseboot your talking about? I'm sure it sounds niave, but why was it such a PITA?
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.
Regarding the grease boots, I'm talking about the dust covers on the upper and lower ball joints. I tried to take a photo but could not get a clear shot. This page from the manual shows what I'm talking about.
Pretty fancy photo/computer skills exhibited here!
The dust covers included in the complete kit are blue. I have built my project on jack stands so my suspension has been hanging un-weighted for 13 months. The dust covers are pinched when the suspension is at full drop. Not sure if that was the cause but 3 of 4 of the covers were torn.
This assembly goes together easily but to take it all apart is a pain. The ball joints are a taper fit into the spindle so separating them takes some effort. Had to borrow a couple different "ball joint separator" tools from O'Riley's to get it done.
-Steve
Last edited by Straversi; 01-09-2018 at 10:41 AM.
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
My initial plan for alignment was to eye-ball it, get it close and then take it to a professional after it was all finished.
After reading multiple threads about trimming components to get the correct caster and after reading questions about wheels being centered in wheel arches I realized I didn't know much about the geometry of the suspension I have been tinkering with over the past year. Added to that, I had read enough threads about difficulties with alignment shops that I started leaning towards learning how to align this beast myself.
When I set her down and adjusted the ride height I discovered that my eye-ball method had my car pointing in 4 different directions at once.
Well that can't be good, can it?
At that point I ordered the Fastrax 91000 alignment tool, the 91030 no lip adapters, the Heidts toe adjustment plate and a magnetic base laser level per my favorite resource, EdwardB.
I won't document my methods because far better descriptions have been written and in the end, I think I have this to the "about right" alignment settings. I'll do it again after putting on some miles and do it again, again after it is 100% complete with body weight, etc. Not ruling out taking it to a pro either.
What I will share is that the alignment process is a great learning experience. I read about it multiple times and was intimidated because I didn't really understand the descriptions. It was a learn as you go experience, at least for me.
It was also an iterative process. Don't try to get rear camber perfect and then go to toe-in because toe-in adjustments effect camber. Take little steps and sneak up on it. My first wheel position took me 4 times longer than my second and so on and so on. By the time I did drivers side front, it was a snap. Knee pads help. Lots of jacking, bracing, adjusting, measuring, repeat....
At least now when someone asks about my camber, caster and toe-in, I don't have to hide my dear in the headlights look.
Next stop, Go-Kart!
-Steve
Last edited by Straversi; 11-20-2019 at 06:14 PM.
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Good for you!
Wow, I'm impressed! This looks very tedious and difficult. But the darn thing needs to be aligned properly. I just figured I would take mine to a pro but maybe I need to invest in more gadgets. The idea of lasers is intriguing...
"I have one simple request; and that is to have sharks with fricken laser beams on their heads....." Dr. Evil, Austin Powers.
Sorry, couldn't resist the Dr. Evil quote.
But seriously, you should never pass up the opportunity to buy a laser. Others align their cars with string and a tape measure, but where's the fun in that?
The alignment was not difficult. It did start out a bit tedious but ended up being quite easy. Just took some practice.
-Steve
Last edited by Straversi; 10-12-2017 at 02:35 PM.
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
How did you go about aligning the rear with the IRS? I got the toe and the camber dialed in no problem but when I started driving I realized the car was not tracking straight. I realized I really was not sure how to align the rear properly and what to use as a reference to make sure it was correct/centered on both sides.
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
Fair warning, do not consider this expert advice!
I set the ride height first.
I used the toe in plates and the laser level to get the wheels parallel to the frame. Used the Fastrax to measure the camber.
Did the same for the other side and realized I had both rear wheels parallel to the frame with proper camber but they were not equidistant from the frame. Had to go back and forth several times before I had both rear wheels parallel to and equidistant from the frame. Once they were equal and cambered correctly then I adjusted toe-in by 1/16"? Dont have my notes but it was not much. Double checked the camber and called it close enough.
Did the fronts in a similar way. Set the ride height.
Got the wheels parallel to the frame by adjusting the steering rack ends.
Followed the Fastrack instructions for camber and caster.
Then I reset the toe in by adjusting the steering rack ends agin.
When I drive it I'll let you know if it tracks reasonably straight.
Experts, if you are cringing at my methods, please chime in. I won't be offended if you tell me I have it all screwed up.
Oh, and this is body off so it might need a complete redo with body on
-Steve
Last edited by Straversi; 10-12-2017 at 09:49 PM.
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
You're on the right track. Congrats for taking it on! Doing you own alignment is actually kind of interesting and I strongly prefer doing it myself versus the various results from using shops that may or may not be up to the task. Use of the FasTrax is pretty straightforward for setting caster and camber. Use of the toe plates is also pretty straightforward for setting toe-in by measuring using the provided tape measures and slots in the plates. Lots of guys use strings to get the overall front/back track parallel to the chassis. You can see multiple YouTube videos of this. The laser is an alternate approach that seems to work pretty well and maybe is a little more accurate. The specific Bosch laser level works great because it has a magnet that attaches to the toe plates. Plus it's just a cool tool to have in your collection.
To set the track, what I did was the following. For the rear, using the toe plates on the rear tires, I made some pieces from scrap hardboard that slide under the chassis behind the front tires. They're both exactly the same size, resting on the ground and against the 4-inch frame tubes. With the initial rear camber and toe-in set, projected the laser against the boards from each toe plate. Measured the distance from the edge of the board on each side. After several times re-adjusting camber and toe-in (they do interact some) was able to get the distances exactly the same on both sides. Meaning the track was straight. This picture gives the idea:
For the front, same idea except projected the laser toward the rear tires. Since the rear track is slightly wider than the front, the laser projected onto the edge of the rear tires. With the initial caster, camber, and toe-in set on the front, projected the laser to the back and checked the position of the dot on each of the two rear tires. Re-adjusted until the dot was the same distance from the edge on both sides. Hope this all makes sense. 1,700+ miles now on this build. Only slight tire wear so far and looks completely normal. Tracks perfectly.
Last edited by edwardb; 10-13-2017 at 06:39 AM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Hi Steve.
Very impressive build. I have a question about adding USB charger. I noticed you added all kinds of fancy lights here and there. I only want to add a USB charger. Nothing too complicated.
Thanks,
Martin
Life is short, so start living it.
Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-in-the-garage!
delivery date: 10/31/2017, first start 2/24/2018, title and registration passed 6/22/2018
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
Life is short, so start living it.
Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-in-the-garage!
delivery date: 10/31/2017, first start 2/24/2018, title and registration passed 6/22/2018
I don't have a radio, heater or wipers so I had a few circuits on the RF harness to choose from. I also added the cigarette lighter style adapter. I've read where people use electric driving blankets. Even with heat seats I think that will be popular feature with my wife. I bought both from West-Marine.
I swapped the LED strip light that came with the kit for a few sealed LED lights but they are on the same RF courtesy light circuit.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Steve-
Build is looking great, and I love the Dr. Evil quote! I have really enjoyed following along with your progress. You have inspired me to do my own alignment. Plus, I get to buy some more tools, which is always good!!
brocku-
I am installing a combination USB charger and cigarette lighter in my car. I did this simply for the flexibility it offers. I didn't want to put in both a USB and cigarette lighter, and when I found the combined unit, it made sense to save the space and separate wiring by having them together... Got them at Amazon.
Sorry for the tangent Steve. Keep up the great work!
Regards,
Steve
I bled the brakes and hydraulic clutch for the first time. Had to re-bend and replace one short section of brake line that leaked.
Rolled it out of the garage next to big brother and let it run until the thermostat opened for the first time.
My neighborhood is nothing but steep hills so I had to run it back and forth in my driveway a dozen times before I had confidence in the brakes.
No more excuses, Go-Kart time.
Please forgive the audio, the Go Pro mount was a little shaky.
https://youtu.be/n_nVT6wi13g
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Great job Steve. Congrats! Looked like a beautiful day for a drive.
If I am remembering correctly you are quite tall. Looks like you did really well with your leg room from what I could tell in the video. How do you feel about your leg and foot room? That was a pretty long first drive. What are your driving impressions?
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
Congratulations Steve!
She looks and sounds great. And, unless something was wrong with the microphone, she sounds quiet too!
I like the confidence in such a long first drive. Congratulations on the milestone, and I look forward to watching you finish things up.
Regards,
Steve
Thanks Scott,
Yes, 6' 6" and the leg room is great. I'll lose a bit when I pad and cover my seat and add carpet etc but I've figured a way to notch and pocket the rear sheet metal to get that room back if needed. I'll wait until I get the body on before I mess with that though. I didn't notice my feet. Paying attention to too many other things. No problems that I took note of.
Car drove smooth and stopped straight. So far so good.
WI89,
The GoPro mike must have been overwhelmed by the wind noise and mounting vibration because the car is definitely NOT quiet. I was surprised by the audio myself.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Awesome job. Congratulations on go-karting
build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-USRRC-vspeeds
Build School: July 14-16, 2017
Kit purchased: July 25, 2017
Kit delivered: September 13, 2017
First Start: December 22, 2018
Body painted and kit completed and drivable: July 2019 (but still not done)
CA SB100 Registration: January 2020
Mk4 - 289 USRRC Roadster kit, Roush 427SR with Schneider Racing custom camshaft, Fitech EFI, TKO600 (.64-5th gear), 15" wheels, stock brake calipers, under car exhaust with Spintech 7000 muffler, no roll bar, Russ Thompson turn signal, removable steering wheel, and many other small upgrades and modifications
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Im never ceasing to be amazed, Steve! thanks for explaining the greaseboot situation too
A couple of months ago I advanced to the Go-Kart stage.
Prior to the first road test I knew I had a small oil leak coming from the side plug in the Moroso oil pan and a perpetual drip in my FFR Flex lower radiator hose. No problem just some things to address later.
After a few laps around the neighborhood I discovered my FFR brake fluid reservoirs were leaking as well as a drip coming from the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.
Few more laps and found my radiator overflow tank was emptying itself every drive.
Put the car back up on jack stands and discovered fluid splattered from the drive shaft back. Not dripping but evenly covering everything from drive shaft to fuel tank.
Quickly determined that at the very end of my transmission there was an opening for a mechanical speedometer, I assume. There should have been a plug here but mine was shipped without.
Quick call to Mike Forte and a plug was in the mail.
First issue fixed.
Next issue was coolant. Initially I swapped out my FFR overflow tank for a larger capacity unit. That was not my problem. I was overheating so it didn't matter how large my expansion tank was. (Two overflow tanks soon to be listed for sale).
The problem was that my thermostat was not opening. No problem with the thermostat, just my coolant routing. I went with an aftermarket intake manifold and it blocked the stock coolant routing. The vendor that sold me the manifold showed me a different way to route the coolant lines and it made sense at the time. They still say it would work but I decided to punt and go back to the conventional Coyote coolant routing.
I bought the Moroso top tank, Boig Cool Pipe lower radiator hose, the F-150 upper radiator hose and the radiator return line with check valve. I removed my water pump and tapped the outflow port so I could use the AN fittings instead of the stock hoses. Also welded AN fittings to the Moroso tank. I was able to reuse most of the -AN fittng and hoses from my original routing, with some resizing.
I fabricated the reducer plug per Ford and EdwardB recommendations since I'm not running a heater.
I think the hardest part was fabricating the brackets to mount and support the Moroso top tank. Since I used the Breeze upper radiator mount, I couldn't copy Edwardb's brackets exactly but I did steal the concept.
Boig lower radiator hose with a 1-1/2" cable style clamp and a spacer bolted to a nutsert in the frame. No more drips. I did have to trim the upper hose elbow a couple of times to keep the hose from rubbing against the steering shaft.
Pesky little brackets to mount the Moroso top tank. 1/8" x 3/4" steel bar stock, vise and sledge hammer.
Conventional Coyote coolant line routing. No overheating. I guess those Ford guys know what they are doing after all.
More to come.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Steve where did you get the bracket that is holding the lower radiator hose next to the cross tube? Do you have a part number or a better picture of one?
My current status is zip ties! This is a definite upgrade!
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
Hi Scott,
That is a Snug-Fit Vibration-Dampening loop clamp from McMaster-Carr #317T58. It is just a cushioned stainless cable clamp like the 3/4" ones you can buy at ACE but since it is 1-1/2" ID, I had to order it. Good news is that they sell them individually, not in a 25 pack.
I put a 10/24 nutsert in the frame tube and made a spacer that was around 3/4" and it holds it great. If I flipped the clamp around I could have eliminated the spacer but the nutsert would have been right next to a weld. Ha, Don't knock zip ties. They are a staple in my garage.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Steve, just finished absorbing the build thread... Amazing work! You have put a lot of time and thought into the build and it shows well.
Thank you in advance for the tidbits to save time and headaches when I get to my build. Safe driving!
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Couple more side projects knocked out while I was waiting for parts. I ordered a set of side pipes from Gas-N. I am very satisfied with the look, sound, order process and delivery, just as everyone who buys them seems to be. I liked the FFR pipes but I tend to leave my quite neighborhood very early on weekends. Figured I might as well do what I could.
Here is a comparison of the FFR and Gas-N pipes. Gas-N below with the longer muffler section.
I also made a radiator screen (direct copy from EdwardB) with stainless mesh from Pegasus Racing and 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum stock from HD. I think I will keep mine in natural finish but I'll determine that later. I'll drill out some of those rivets when I add the mounting brackets.
I also built a miniature version for my oil cooler. I used 1/2" angled aluminum for the horizontal legs of the frame so I could bolt the screen directly to the cooler mounts. I painted the ends black so they disappear and you only see the screen. Not sure if this will matter when the body goes on.
Complete set. The large radiator screen is not mounted. I will tackle that when I do the side and front aluminum after first body fitting.
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Steve,
Your project notes are a great help. Got back into the thread and saw the radiator and oil cooler photos and notes. Been wondering how these would work together, your photos show a good method. Great photos too.
Thanks,
Jim
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
I was content with my FFR master cylinder reservoirs. I ordered three for the brakes and hydraulic clutch. I had the most up to date version with the cap with an O-ring, fine threads and no vent. I did a little go-karting and noticed the cylinders were wet. Wiped them down, snugged them up tighter, few more laps and more leaks. If I cranked the lids down as tight as possible, they seemed to stop leaking but it took plyers to get them to open. Didn't seem like a long term solution.
Dan at FFR sent me three new ones, but by the time they arrived I noticed a leak from the bottom as well. Time for something different. I'll send Dan back his reservoirs and maybe he can help somebody else out. I do appreciate that he was willing to help.
I know the CNC's are popular and proven but I got used to the look of the round cylinders. Wilwood has a new reservoir #WIL-260-12697 with a bladder and vented cap that I liked so that's the direction I headed. My Wilwood master cylinders from FFR came with the plastic caps with band clamps and the red rubber hoses. The new Wilwood reservoirs only come with a -3 AN end fitting so you need to order the adapter #WIL-220-13130 that threads into the 11/16-20 threads inside the MC and adapts to a -3AN flexline. Wilwood said they have been adding the 11/16-20 threads to all of their MCs for the past year or so.
I made a bracket out of aluminum angle that would bolt up to the bottom of the 3/4" chassis tube. The brackets for the reservoirs come with (2) 1/4-20 bolts, one to mount the bracket and one to mount and squeeze the cylinder so I needed to mount (2) 1/4-20 nut inserts x 3 into my bracket.
Al_C started a thread a while ago about "basic machining questions" that turned into a discussion about aligning and expanding holes. This was a test of my skills to get 6 nutserts installed so the brackets would mount and bolts not bind.
Wilwood reservoirs and brackets. The brackets are 3 1/4" wide so the assembly takes up more room than the CNC or the three FFR cylinders I had installed before. Dan mentioned that the reservoirs that will be shipped from FFR going forward will have an even larger footprint.
The -3 AN fitting on the bottom of the reservoir points straight down. The fitting on top of the MC points straight up. The braided flexlines you can order from Wilwood have either two straight fittings or a 90 on one end. the straight end on the flex hose caused issues I didn't like on either end. If I looped the straight end from the bottom of the reservoir the lines got even closer to my headers. It I looped the straight end on top of the master cylinder the bend is pretty tight not to rub on the top of the aluminum panels.
I had a local vendor make hoses with 90's on both ends. I also had them slip on a heat shield hose where the lines sit above the header for some cheap insurance. The red rubber hose is positioned where the lines pass through my original bulkhead opening. The red band on the other end is heat shrink tubing. One of the 90's needs to be clocked slightly since the MC fitting is higher than the reservoir fitting. Learned that the hard way.
Final assembly. Happy with the way it looks.
I was OK with the rubber hoses and the plastic caps on top of the master cylinders, but on the other hand, not an area I want to go back and rework once the body is on.
I took apart the fittings on my leaking hydraulic clutch slave cylinder and reassembled with a little more thread sealant and tightened a hair more and now I am drip free. Well, that was easy!
-Steve
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901